EVENING LIGHT, ANDENES LIGHTHOUSE, ANDOYA ISLAND
"We travel, in essence, to become young fools again - to slow time down and get taken in, and fall in love once more." Pico Iyer
Warm greetings!
I returned last week from a memorable trip to northern Europe.
This journey evolved with serendipity and many moments of good fortune.
To start, I felt like a lottery winner when I learned my airline reservation to Iceland to co-lead a photography workshop in mid September was possible via frequent flier miles. Then, after 46 voice recordings, 8.5 hours of waiting "on hold," three cups of strong tea, and more than a touch of gentle prodding, a kindhearted reservation specialist gave in. She opened another door. It turned out I could stop in Oslo, Norway on my way to Reykjavik, Iceland without charge. Excitement.
I had dreamed of exploring Norway for many years. After a dabble of Internet research (the Google "Images" button is quite wonderful) and several phone calls to avid travelers, the Lofoten Island region jumped forward as a prime focus.
Stories of this area's deep history and rich culture and images from the remote islands' isolated beaches, colorful fishing villages, rolling farmland, epic fjords, and wind swept mountains captivated me.
STORM CLEARING, SAKRISOY, LOFOTEN ISLANDS
A good friend who shares a passion for travel and photography joined the plan.
And, in early September, the notion of travel in this part of the world became real.
We wandered off to explore the islands for nine unstructured days.
You may wonder where Lofoten is.
Here's a high level view ...

Weather in this part of the world is best described as "transitional."
A traveler in September is likely to experience rain, wind, heavy cloud cover, sleet, snow, more rain, touches of sunshine, fog, and, if fortunate, stunning light. The wonder of this place is that all these conditions may occur in the same day. In truth, sometimes, all of these experiences occur in the same hour. During our trip, we checked all these weather boxes. Many times.
WEATHERED WATER TANK, LANGOYA ISLAND
I was mesmerized by the color and textured feel of the old wooden and metal buildings and the character of the coastline and communities.
The skies were dramatic. At times, the clouds transitioned from white cotton puffs, to light feathered wisps, to dark bulging waves, to beautiful patterns of light and shadow in less than a few hours.
Most days, the sky felt like a massive, living canvas - a swirling painting in motion.
SUNSET, NESLAND, LOFOTEN ISLANDS
As you travel through these islands, you feel the flow of time and a sense of the bond between the local communities and the ocean.
The relentless waves, rain, and wind are part of life - celebrated and respected.

TATTERED METAL, LOFOTEN ISLANDS
The Islands are filled with stunning inlets and moments of discovery.
THE WEST COAST, NORTH OF REINE
Old fishing shacks, farms, dark black rock, and piles of yellow and orange seaweed dot the coast.
ROWBOAT AT REST, VESTVAGOYA ISLAND
Larger islands are connected by a series of bridges and ferries. Some of the smallest islands are only accessible by boat.
The roads, even in remote parts of the region, tend toward smooth and new (nothing like oil revenue to support public infrastructure).
Long, remarkable tunnels through thick sections of rock are common.
We rented a car and stayed in youth hostels, guest houses, and fishing huts throughout our trip.
We shopped for food in local grocery stores and cooked most of our meals in community kitchens or small burners in our room.
Many of the people we met as we wandered and explored were wonderful - genuine, open, joyful, and gracious.

YNGE JOHANSEN, NORWEGIAN LUMBERJACK
There is a beautiful simplicity and natural cycle of seasons in this region of the world. The stress and strain of our culture and the daily intensity known well in San Francisco and Silicon Valley are foreign notions. A deep sense of family and community are evident.
ARTHUR AT HIS GALLERY, TRESMIE
Arthur, shown above and below, is a charismatic, passionate artist we met in a small village named Stronsad.
From all I know, he is part elf, part explorer, and part Norwegian. I adored him. He lives with his wonderful wife Tune (that's "Tuna"), who is a school teacher, near his vibrant woodworking studio on the coast. His enthusiasm for wood carving, nautical artifacts, people, life, rocks, ropes, nets, stories, and each day's adventure went well beyond wonderful. He offered much inspiration.
By chance, we were introduced to Arthur by his son, Ynge. We met Ynge at his home by the side of the road. We introduced ourselves. He smiled. A conversation began. After much banter, he sent us to see his father. When you travel, these unexpected moments and introductions often deliver the purist joy and connection.
ARTHUR AT HIS GALLERY, TRESMIE
As we traveled from island to island and hiked along the coast and through small rolling hills and rocky mountains, the colorful landscapes, dramatic light, and constantly shifting "footscapes" (yes, that's a new word I just made up to refer to points of interest near my shoes) were breathtaking.
You may enjoy a quick tour of sample images from these travels. Perhaps a few of these moments will resonate for you.
Sliding the tab on the right will allow a quick dash through hundreds of miles and hours of play. Oops. I mean hours of hard work and travel. Laughter.

UTAKLEIV BEACH, VESTVAGOYA ISLAND
TREE ROOT, TRESMIE
FISHING NETS

GIANT CABLE SPOOL
RAINY MORNING, COD FISH PROCESSING PLANT, STRAMSUND, VESTVAGOYA ISLAND
SUNSET, EEGUM BEACH, LOFOTEN ISLAND

FALL COLORS, GRVEMARK AREA, LOFOTEN ISLAND

WEATHERED BOAT HULL, NORTH OF TIND
WEATHERED BUOY, AUSTVAGOYA ISLAND

LIGHTHOUSE IN A STORM, LAUKVIKA AREA
WEATHERED WATER TANK, LANGOYA ISLAND
POST SUNSET STILLNESS, HAVAG AREA, NEAR EEGUM BEACH
WEATHERED FISHING HUT, LANGOYA ISLAND NEAR STAUME

EIDSJORDEN FJORD, SVARDA, LANGOYA ISLAND

WORN CABLES, AUSTVAGOYA ISLAND

FISHING NETS, VESTVAGOYA ISLAND

FALL COLORS, LANGOYA ISLAND

WEATHERED BOAT HULL, NORTH OF TIND

HORSES AND A STUNNING RAINBOW, NEAR HAMMERSTAD

WEATHERED SHIPPING CONTAINER, VESTVAGOYA ISLAND

SUNSET, NEAR NESLAND, TINLAND ISLAND
COASTAL ROCK FORMATION, NEAR FREDVANG
WEATHERED WOOD, VESTVAGOYA ISLAND

SUNSET, NESLAND

WILDFLOWERS, NESLAND

RAINBOW OVER SAKRISOY

A ROW BOAT'S BOTTOM, LANGOYA ISLAND

SUNSET ON THE REEDS, HOVSUND AREA

WINDOWS INTO A WEATHERED WORLD, VESTVAGOYA ISLAND

TAPESTRY OF SEAWEED, COAST NEAR FREDVANG

COASTLINE NEAR HVALSAFARI, ANDOYA ISLAND

WEATHERED BOAT HULL, NORTH OF TIND

NYKSUND, LANGOYA ISLAND

A ROW BOAT'S SCARS, VESTVAGOYA ISLAND
SHIPWRECK, MORFORD AREA
There are certainly challenges with travel in northern Norway including brutal weather and potential costs, but these issues can be positively navigated.
It's true, the weather can be nasty and dark for days, but it's also the source of so, so much beauty.
The price for food, gas, and lodging are very high, but here too, there are opportunities to go "low brow," save funds, and connect with the community.
The entire region maintains little tourist infrastructure and, as a result, holds a depth of untamed, spectacular, authentic scenery. We didn't make any formal reservations throughout this trip and flowed informally from site to site each day. There were a few close calls as we searched nightly for a place to sleep and food to sustain the journey, but overall, this is an incredibly comfortable and safe part of the world to venture in.
I continue to savor many moments with people we met and time in the open spaces, mountains, and coastlines. I left the region with a desire to return - grateful for the experience.
If you get a chance to wander about in these Islands, I recommend you jump at the opportunity. Go with patience and an open spirit and explore.
These islands are likely to surprise, delight, and absorb you.
Best wishes,
Jeff