Tashi Delek! (Warm greetings!)
Early this week, I returned home from several weeks of travel in central and western Tibet. Parts of our itinerary followed well worn paths in and around Lhasa, Gyantse, Shigatse, Yarlung Valley, and the Nam-tso Lake areas. Other explorations involved sections of the fabled and historic Guge and sacred Mount Kailash regions. The altitude varied from 11,000 to well over 17,000 feet. Roads went from silky smooth to teeth rattling, lumpy-ridiculous. Dust and smoke were relentless. Fortunately, God invented four wheel drive, deep breathing, and bandanas.
The timing of the trip coincided with the Tibetan Saga Dawa celebration.
As anticipated, there were moments of serenity, reflection, spiritual depth, stunning wilderness, and valued companionship. So often, the Tibetan people express an inspirational level of warmth, faith, and resiliency. Treasured tIme in and near Tibetan monasteries, ancient forts, snow capped mountains, alpine lakes, wind-swept passes, and open valleys lingers.
In the midst of these cherished moments, there were countless reminders of Tibet's difficult political, human rights, and cultural tensions. During our time in Lhasa, two monks set themselves on fire in a high profile area near Jokhang Temple to protest the impact of the Chinese government's policies and the tightly controlled freedoms provided to the Tibetan people. This action set off a dramatic response by the Chinese authorities - police and security check points intensified, controls tightened, military demonstrations expanded, and permits for foreigners were constrained. At many high profile public sites and annual celebrations, hundreds of Chinese soldiers were prominently positioned with machine guns on their chests and fire extinguishers on their backs ready for preventive and reactive action. Later, all entry into Tibet for foreigners was stopped. Mount Everest Park was closed. Roads were constantly monitored. It's not clear when the country will open fully again.
We were fortunate to dodge most of these challenges. Yet the impact was profound.
This was my second trip to Tibet. I remain captivated, concerned, and deeply reflective from all I witnessed. The experience of travel in Tibet presents a tapestry of powerful emotions - joy and sadness, hope and uncertainty, inspiration and concern, gratitude and discomfort. It's not clear how the Tibetan culture can fully survive and be enriched, how basic human rights can best be protected for all people in this part of the world, and how the commitment of the Tibetan people to nurture compassion and ensure a non-violent response to Chinese policies, influence, and control can be sustained. Each of these questions will surely be tested and strained over time.
While traveling, I produced some still imagery that reflects a bit of the spirit and character of the Tibetan people and the colorful Tibetan landscape. My intent was to reflect a touch of the soul of Tibet. You may enjoy a fourteen minute tour ...
I send my best wishes your way. Hope your Summer is starting on a great note.
Jeff
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