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American Mountain Guides Association
eNewsletter
January 2013
Happy New Year from the AMGA! We're finally getting some snow and cold here in Boulder. Yay! Trying to play catch up with the rest of the country, where ice has already formed and people have been skiing in waist deep powder. We wish you all a happy and healthy 2013!

In this issue you'll find updates from the advocacy department, info on the Kees Brenninkmeyer Foundation, an Annual Meeting reminder, Avy II courses from CMS and more.

Kees Brenninkmeyer Foundation: Help for injured guides
Mission Statement:
To financially assist alpine guides, patrollers, or instructors who require surgery in order to continue their careers.


The Kees Brenninkmeyer Foundation is a non-profit resource for alpine (including ski) industry professionals seeking orthopedic medical care. The foundation is inspired by and created in memory of Kees Brenninkmeyer, who passed away while actively pursuing a career as an alpine ski and mountaineering guide.

Key Criteria for Applicants
  • Career threatening injury (chronic or acute).
  • Documentation supporting career and/or career intent within the guiding, patrolling, or instructing organization.
  • Medical expenses related to injury would present a considerable financial hardship.

 

 

Please visit the website for more information.  There is a link for application on the homepage as well.

 

 

 

 

Contact Information: 

Joanna  Grenawalt, Director

joanna.grenawalt@gmail.com 

970.239.6064 

 

  kees

 

 

Advocacy Update

By: Scott Massey, AMGA Outreach and Advocacy Director 

 

 

Greetings and Happy New Year from the Advocacy Department! It's been a fairly quiet holiday time here. However, there is some recent news from Yosemite. The NPS has just released their draft Merced River Plan (MRP) and Tuolumne River Plan (TRP). Both of these massive documents are crucial to future management of those Wild and Scenic River corridors, climbing access that passes through those areas, and developments such as camping. Both plans are open to public comment, the TRP until March 18th, and the MRP until April 18th. The plans can be viewed at the NPS planning website. Tuolumne's plan can be viewed here, and the Merced plan can be viewed here. Click on "Open for Comment" to peruse the individual documents. While these plans do not discuss guiding in Yosemite, they do affect several other facets of climbing access and infrastructure. Guiding will be addressed in the Wilderness Stewardship Plan, which is to be started this spring.

 

There is also some news from Ecuador. Many of you may have seen posts on Summit Post or Mountain Project about new guiding requirements for glaciated peaks in Ecuador. I've done some research on the new regulations, which were put in place in response to some fatalities on the Illinizas this past year.

  • IFMGA/AMGA certified guides, climbing for fun, may sign a waiver to climb.
  • In order to guide those peaks, all groups must be accompanied by a local guide (tour operator) with the proper paperwork.
  • Any other climbing party (general public) must be accompanied by an IFMGA or ASEGUIM (Ecuadorian Mountain Guides Association) certified guide.

 

That's it for now. Stay healthy and safe, and have a great January!


 

 

 

2013 AIARE Level II Avalanche Courses with CMS

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Colorado Mountain School (CMS) offers AIARE Level II Avalanche courses.  This is a four-day field based course in Rocky Mountain National Park.  Lodging is available at the CMS lodge in Estes Park, CO. 

2013 Level II Course Schedule:
January 17-20
February 14-17
March 7-10
April 4-7



Be safe out there!!!

 

AMGA Guides Compete in 2013 Ouray Mixed Climbing Comp
The AMGA was well represented at the recent Ouray Ice Festival in Ouray, CO.  We were psyched to see some of our members competed in the Elite Mixed Climbing Comp.  Vince Anderson, AMGA Instructor Team Member and IFMGA/AMGA Certified Guide, built a doozy of course for the competitors.  Amongst the top finishers were:

Womens Division:
Dawn Glanc (4)
Caroline George (6)
Andrea Charest (7)

Mens Division:
Andres Marin (11)
Jeff Unger (15)
Jaime Quintana (17)


Great job everyone, and way to persevere through the frigid conditions!

 

2013 AMGA Annual Meeting
We've had some inquiries lately.  So as a reminder, the 2013 Annual Meeting is taking place:

October 25-27, 2013
Boulder, CO   
Help Wanted
helpwantedIn an attempt to better serve our membership, we will be offering space in the monthly e-Newsletter to share job opportunities. This benefit is available to any current AMGA Accredited Program, certified guide or Corporate Partner.  Postings must be submitted to membership.director@amga.com  between the 1st and the 5th of every month in order to make the monthly e-Newsletter. Any postings submitted outside this time-frame will be deleted. Postings must be 200 words or less and will be reviewed and accepted or denied by the AMGA office staff. Please email membership.director@amga.com with any questions.

......................................................................................................................  

 

Internship Opportunity: School for International Expedition Training

Contact: Josh Beckner  

info@expeditiontraining.org  

760.920.3464


We are currently accepting resumes for an internship for the 'Ishinca Valley Expedition' in Peru. This is an advanced mountaineering course designed for aspiring guides and instructors of outdoor education. Interns would assist instructors during one of the two courses: May 15-June 4 and June 7 -27. Applicants must have a strong technical background, ability to operate independently of instructors, excellent communication skills, an accurate sense of one's own technical and physical abilities/limitations, a significant amount of time spent on glaciers and on alpine climbs, and preferably some AMGA training.  

 

CLICK HERE to see categories in which applicants should also excel.

 


Please see the SIET website for dates, course curriculum and other information pertaining to this course. 

 

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Seneca Rocks Climbing School 

Position: In House Instructor 

Contact: Massey Teel 

massey@climbseneca.com

 

Seneca Rocks Climbing School is looking for an in house instructor for the 2013 season running from April 1st-November 1st.  SRCS is the oldest climbing school and guide service in the mid-Atlantic providing instruction and guiding at one of the most spectacular cliffs on the East coast.  This position will involve teaching and guiding students at Seneca Rocks and other crags in WV and VA.  The majority of this work will be multi-pitch but occasional single pitch days should also be expected.  The instructor will also be able to supplement income by working for the Gendarme, a retail shop that sells climbing equipment and outdoor goods/apparel.  Company housing available.  Applicants must have a valid WFR certification, reliable transportation and a desire and share the sport of climbing with students.  A solid understanding of traditional climbing techniques and multi-pitch techniques are also required.  Rock Instructor and/or experience guiding in multi-pitch settings a plus.  Those interested should send a resume and climbing/working log to Massey Teel via email 

 

......................................................................................................................  

Colorado Mountain Club (Boulder Group) 

Position: Director of Rock Leading School 

Contact: Rick Casey 

caseyrick@gmail.com

 

303.345.8993

 

 

The Boulder Group of the Colorado Mountain Club is seeking a qualified volunteer to be our Director of Rock Leading School (RLS) for the summer 2013 season and beyond. A full description of the course can be viewed at our website, www.cmcboulder.org/bms/rls.html. The course consists of one evening lecture and three field trips, around early June. The Director has the responsibility of reviewing the curriculum and helping to organize the instructors, lecturers and assistants for the course. The RLS Director may be one of the lecturers and may fill in at the field trips as needed. As such, the Director needs to be an experienced rock climber and conversant with the latest climbing equipment and leading techniques. The Director reports to the BMS (Boulder Mountain Schools) Committee. The past RLS Director for the past several years, Clint Locks, was also an AMGA guide, and the CMC would be grateful if we are so lucky as to have another AMGA volunteer help us in this position. Although unpaid, the position offers excellent networking opportunities, as the CMC is the oldest and most established local hiking and climbing organization in the state (see cmc.org). The CMC is prepared to offer a one year free membership if the volunteer is not already a CMC member. If interested, please contact Brenda Leach via email, the current BMS Co-Chair.

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Jackson Hole Mountain Guides Expands Guest Guide Opportunities CONTACT:  Rob Hess, Chief Guide 

Jackson Hole Mountain Guides
rob@jhmg.com
 
In early September, 2011, I notified AMGA certified rock guides of the opportunity to guest guide under JHMG's permits in Moab/Indian Creek, the Red Rock, Cody and Boulder, Colorado. I am pleased to announce a further expansion of our guest guide program to include the world class City of Rocks outside of Almo, Idaho.
 
This opportunity is available only to AMGA certified guides and IFMGA-level guides. Guides wishing to climb under JHMG's guest guide program should submit a letter of interest along with a climbing resume, copy of current first aid and CPR cards, and a copy of the guide's AMGA certification card to Rob Hess at the email address shown above.
 
An Idaho guide's license is required and JHMG is now in position to expedite the process of acquiring a license for AMGA certified guides through Idaho Outfitter and Guides Association. Guides whose applications have been approved will receive a written acknowledgement and additional information about the program

  

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Exum Mountain Guides - Guest Guide Opportunities  

The AMGA is excited to announce that we will be working with Exum Mountain Guides this summer to offer you the opportunity to work as a guest guide in Grand Teton National Park!

 

The Tetons provide some of the most accessible and diverse climbing in the North America. One of its premier climbs is, naturally, the Grand Teton (13,770 ft), a remarkable ascent via many outstanding routes that all providing an exhilarating day in the mountains. While the Grand Teton is the most famous peak in the region, the range also offers dozens of other climbs that are both famous and challenging, all in a beautiful and dramatic landscape. 

 

The AMGA is proud to work with Exum Mountain Guides in this capacity, and Exum is proud to offer AMGA guides this opportunity. To apply to be a guest guide at Exum you must be an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide.  Click Here to find out how to apply. 


Cheers,
 American Mountain Guides Association

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In This Issue
Kees Brenninkmeyer
Advocacy Update
2013 Avy Level II Courses w/ CMS
2013 Annual Meeting Dates
Help Wanted
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