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Shirt Making  -  Fabric Choice is Key
Dear Sewing Friends, 
My favorite thing to sew and to teach is SHIRTS and I want to share my knowledge with you so I have developed a series of articles on shirt making. Below is the first installment, Fabric Choice is Key. Please share this email with your sewing friends and send me any questions you may have about shirt making. Watch for additional articles coming soon.

Here are some simple facts and opinions on choosing the best shirt making fabrics: 
 
A traditional man's button down shirt can be made from nearly any fashion fabric with slight adjustments to the pattern size for best fit and comfort. When using heavier and less forgiving fabrics (no stretch) the finished shirt needs to have more ease (room) than lighter fabrics. Lightweight or slightly stretchy fabrics can be used for closer fitting shirts. To make a traditional dress shirt (worn with a tie) or sport shirt (worn with sport coat/slacks or jeans - tie or no tie), the fabrics I like best are natural fibers: cotton, linen, silk or blends of two or all three. I like the naturals best because 1. They breathe and are far more comfortable to wear, especially if worn under a coat. 2. Natural fibers are easy to stitch on and take a press well. Synthetics or naturals blended with more than 10% synthetic are often difficult to stitch and very difficult to get a crisp press. Ugh! I don't want to sew on uncooperative stuff - who does?

When making a really nice shirt the weight and drape of the fabric is very important. It should be firmly woven, not too wimpy but certainly not stiff. Quilter's cotton is too stiff and batiste is too wimpy. Look for fabric labeled "shirting" and if it's a high quality natural fiber it will make the most beautiful shirt. Warning: all shirtings are not created equal and are not necessarily natural fibers. Even if you like the look of a particular printed synthetic fabric you'll no doubt be disappointment with the end result. 
  
Another important aspect of making a better shirt is using fabric that has a woven pattern (also called yarn dyed) as opposed to a printed pattern. In a woven pattern both sides of the fabric look the same or nearly the same. Printed patterns are applied to the surface of the cloth which results in a very obvious wrong side. Printed patterns are often applied off-grain so it becomes difficult to cut the pattern pieces so the fabric's pattern lines-up well and is still on grain. The end results are disturbing to the eye (hard to look at because it looks sloppy and "home made" and not in a good way), totally negating all the work you put into making the shirt. Not to mention it probably won't be worn much.
Woven Stripe
This is an example of 100% cotton Italian Shirting (feels like silk). Because the stripes are woven they are on grain and there is no obvious wrong side. This fabric makes a beautiful dress shirt that feels good, wears well and looks expensive.

Printed Stripe
This stripe pattern was printed on the surface and shows through a little on the wrong side. These stripes are very unlikley to be on grain. This is NOT what you want.

Woven Check
There is no wrong side here. Due to the intricate weave structor the reverse side has a great contrast and can also be used. This woven pattern will be on grain and is also an example of 100% cotton Italian Shirting.
Cutting Tip 
Often shirting is a stripe pattern and when the stripe is woven it's on grain so you can use the stripe as the grain line as well as fold lines and even center front lines. It makes sewing so much easier, more accurate and yet it seems too easy! I also use the stripe for cutting lines on cuffs and plackets and any straight edge pieces. First time shirt makers often shy away from stripes thinking they are more difficult and it's quite the opposite in my world. 

Send me your shirt making questions, I 'd love to hear from you.
Sincerely Sew,
Janet Pray, 
For Islander Sewing Systems
February Sale - All Shirtings - 20% Off
use promo code: SHIRT20 
 

2016 Hands-on Classes with Janet
For a sewing class that will forever change the way you sew:

March 11-12  American Sewing Guild Shirt Making in Phoenix, AZ
April 8-10       Sewcial (a sewing retreat)Techniques class in Novi, MI
April 16-17     Fashion and Design School Jacket Express in Tacoma, WA 
June 17-19    Florida Sewing Sew-Ciety Shirt Making in Lake Yale, FL
July 7-11 American Sewing Guild Conference 3 classes in Indianapolis, IN

To contact Janet about teaching in your area:  
Click Here to Shop 
Islander Sewing Systems
Feb. Sale,
20% off all Shirtings.
promo code:  SHIRT20 
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