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Serging - 3 Threads vs 4 Threads
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3 Thread Serger Stitches
4 Thread Serger Stitches
Sewing MythBusters #13
by Janet Pray
Serging always requires trimming the seam allowance.
In one of my popular classes based on the pattern Jacket Express, the majority of the seam allowances are 3/8" and for a very good reason. The seams are meant to be pressed to one side and double topstitched. The first row of topstitching is very close to the seam and the second row is ¼" from the seam. If the seam allowance is any narrower than 3/8" the second row of topstitching will not go through the same thickness of fabric layers and therefore will not look nearly as nice as the first row. Some students have remarked that after serging the seam it was now too narrow for the second row of topstitching. After many comments like this I could only conclude that some of my students may not be aware of three possible solutions: 1. the width of the serging can be adjusted, 2. the blade can be disengaged (lowered) so it does not trim the seam allowance, 3. it is not necessary to trim the seam as you serge. You may have been told that trimming as you serge gives the best results. Although it does give great results as the serging wraps closely around the edge for a quality finish, the same results can be had without trimming. Simply keep the raw edge of the seam allowance just grazing the blade without being cut and you will find that same close clean finish.
Why use 4 thread serging?
In this same class as above I've received many questions about why to use 3 thread vs 4 thread serging. The short answer is 3 thread serging merely finishes the edge and keeps the fabric from raveling. 4 thread serging not only finishes the edge but delivers a straight stitch that creates the seam (shown above with orange stitches). In other words, with 4 threads you can stitch the seam at the same time you finish the raw edges. With 3 threads you do not have a straight stitch so it will not create a quality seam because the stitches are too far apart.
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 Free Sewing TipsYou have just read Sewing MythBuster #13 by Janet Pray, Master Islander Sewing Systems Instructor. To read or download all 13 visit IslanderSewing.com. Click on the Sewing MythBusters logo found on the home page, in the scolling slide show.
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