May 2015-2

Pressing Matters!

Why?

Why does pressing matter?

When seams are made using two pattern pieces of a garment they in effect become one piece to form the 3 dimensional aspect of the garment. By pressing the joining seam flat, either to one side or open, it causes the seam to lay smoothly around the body and hang properly. When seams are not pressed flat the garment then looks sloppy and shows it was "home-made". There's nothing wrong with making it at home but our goal is to achieve the look of fine ready-to-wear that produces comments like, "I can't believe you made that" or "I wish my sewing looked that good"! It is also important to note that a good flat press will also create a smoother surface when topstitching is applied.

Although most sewers will stitch a seam then press, then stitch a seam and then press and so on throughout the construction process, Islander Sewing Systems can show you how to expedite the process. Through our "Express" patterns, we give you directions that allow you to sew many seams before needing to press and press many seams before returning to the sewing machine. This is just one of our time saving techniques that makes sewing so much more fun and efficient.

SAVE 20%

To help you get the best pressed look of fine clothing we have two must-have wooden pressing tools on sale!

Clapper Point Presser

Use code PRESS, expires May 28, 2015

What?

Six important pressing tools

1. Pressing Cloth - A pressing cloth is simply a piece of fabric that is used to protect the garment from harm that can be caused by the iron. Two examples when to use a press cloth are: synthetic fabrics that can easily melt under high direct heat and wool fabrics can obtain a flat shiny finish from direct contact with an iron. Always use a press cloth on any fabric when adhering fusible interfacings. My two favorite pressing cloth fabrics are muslin and silk organza. I like the silk because it is transparent and with some projects that can be very helpful.

2. Seam Stick - A fabulous tool for pressing open seams like a pant leg. The stick easily slides into the finished pant leg allowing you to press the seam open without touching and wrinkling the rest of the pant leg.

3. Point Presser - invaluable when making collars. This tool allows you to press open the seams of a collar. Now when the collar is right side out it will turn precisely on the seam without the facing showing on the right side.

4. Clapper - An oval shaped wooden tool that creates the flattest seam. Directly after pressing a seam with steam, apply the clapper with a small amount of pressure. This absorbs the moisture and cools the fabric, producing a very flat seam.

5. Tailor's Ham - A tool that is usually wool and is stuffed in a shape similar to a canned ham. Used for pressing contoured seams such as necklines and princess seams.

6. Professional Iron - The most important aspects of a quality iron for sewers consists of two things. 1. Weight, to get the best press your iron should weigh around 2 lbs give or take a few ounces. 2. Abundant steam possibilities. Look for an iron that has steam holes only at the front of the sole plate. This allows for better steam delivery with more force and allows the last half of the sole plate to heat and dry the steam delivered by the front of the iron.

Learn Industry Sewing Techniques from a Master

Join Janet Pray, Master Islander Sewing Systems Instructor at the Sewing Holiday this July. Organized by Joi Mahon this two to four day event will be held in

Sioux City, Iowa July 22- 25, 2015.

Janet's Class Schedule:

Wed July 22 Adult Learn to Sew

Thursday AM No Pins, No Basting..

Thursday PM Bound Buttonholes

Friday AM Double Green Bag

Friday PM Zippers & Waistbands

Saturday July 25 Shirt Making

Click for more details and registration info

Sewing MythBusters

The more I teach industrial sewing methods the more home-sewing questions come up. For example why don't you press as you sew? or Why don't you use directional sewing? These and so many other well meaning sewing tips are simply "Sewing Myths". This happens so often when hobbies and everyday chores are passed down from one generation to the next. The information is thought to be correct and helpful but many times the person giving the information doesn't really understand it. That's where I come in with my FREE PDF download dispelling "sewing myths". Currently there are 11 MythBusters with several more planned. You can read about them as I write new MythBusters in upcoming issues of this newsletter and/or you can download the PDF from the home page of: IslanderSewing.com

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