Welcome to another Sewing Myth Buster! So often in my classes I am asked about sewing techniques that have been taught to home-sewers as "Cardinal Rules". The ones I speak of are those that are meant to make the garment or project look better but actually, often make it less attractive and harder to accomplish.

When you use commercial sewing patterns one of the first things you learn is, "all seam allowances are to 5/8" unless otherwise noted". The fact that all seam allowance are the same width would at first seem to be a terrific idea, keeping it simple to remember. When it comes to curved seams like necklines the 5/8" seam allowance is not necessary especially when the next step in the directions is to cut it down to 1/4". The simple remedy to this is when cutting out the pattern pieces just trim the neckline and facing seam allowances to 1/4". This is also true for armscyes on sleeveless garments.

Clipping this seam brings up more Myths! Some home-sewers will clip so many times and so close together the seam is nearly shredded, while others have decided clipping little V shaped notches from the seam is a good idea. Clipping about 1/4" apart is sufficient and V shaped notches are NEVER a good idea as it will leave empty spaces in the seam that will show on the right side of the garment when pressed. Always clip as close to the stitching as possible.

Don't skip this step!!!
The final step, understitching is one most home-sewers either don't know about or just skip. This technique is done to keep the facing or lining from showing on the right side of the garment and to create a beautiful sculpted curve. Simply press the seam allowance toward the facing and then, from the right side, topstitch the seam allowance to the facing, a needle-width away (very close) from the seam.