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The French Collection
March 2014
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Greetings!
When spring is in the air I start thinking of French wines. There's something about the beauty of spring's renaissance and the romantic idea of rolling, bucolic French countryside, vineyards waking from their winter nap, birds chirping and bugs buzzing.
Our catalogue of French producers includes 25 wineries and over 40 wines, many in half-bottle format and most of which are small-volume artisan producers. Our offerings change monthly.
I hope you enjoy the "French Collection" we have chosen. Please visit our website for all the others and for our blog, pricelists and critical acclaim. If you have friends or colleagues who love wine as much as we, please forward this along.
My best,
Chris.
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Champagne Vilmart & Cie.
"Grand Cellier" 1er Cru Non-Vintage
$80.95 per bottle, six bottles per case
"Poor man's Krug", "mini Krug" and "The greatest grower Champagne I know."
Tom Stevenson, Decanter magazine, May 2007
Grower Champagnes are houses that grow their own grapes. Naturally the question is, "isn't that how it's always done?" Well, no, in fact the most famous Champagne houses produce in such staggering volumes that they buy fruit from hundreds of independent farmers all across the region.
Grower Champagne houses control their production from the ground to the glass and the attention to detail is reflected in their quality. Grower Champagnes also come in at very modest prices comparatively. In this regard, it is the reverse model to all other wine regions, where we're used to paying more for small production, artisan wine. Vilmart & Cie. isn't owned by a luxury goods conglomerate, it is owned by Laurent Champs, who crafts these beautiful wines by hand.
"Vibrant acidity structures this seamlessly integrated version, backing the layered flavours. Shows lovely texture and length." 95 points, Wine Spectator, Dec 2013
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Champagne Vilmart & Cie.
"Cuvée Rubis" 1er Cru Rosé Non-Vintage
$88.95 per bottle, six bottles per case
According to me, rosé Champagne is simply the greatest style of wine available. It is my "desert island" wine. If I could drink nothing else I would be a very happy man.
As far as "food wine" is concerned there is not a more versatile style of wine than this. The high acidity, red fruit flavours and rich mouthfeel compliment any number of dishes, from canapés to pan fried fish to grilled ribeyes, even dessert and cheeses.
Cuvée Rubis is an exceptional example of artisan Premier Cru rosé Champagne and we are proud to have even a few cases to offer our clients.
"A 90-10 blend of Pinot and Chardonnay (as this cuvee always is) split between 2010 and 2009, Vilmart's NV Brut Cuvée Rubis shows youthfully firm and bright despite having been disgorged for nearly 13 months at the time I tasted it. Tart-edged sour cherry and red currant acquire stony underpinnings and mouthwatering salinity on a polished palate; then dominate a finish in which impressions of pit piquancy and berry seed impingement lend bursting invigoration against an undertone of chalk and wet stone. I suspect that this will acquire greater depth - and perhaps some of Pinot's potential mystery - over the next couple of years." 90 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Nov 2013 |
Domaine Huet
Vouvray Sec "Le Haut-Lieu" 2011
$34.95 per bottle, twelve bottles per case
"Ripe and bracing, with nectarine, peach and star fruit notes propelled by lively acidity and backed by ginger and heather accents on the finish. Drink now through 2018." 90 points, Wine Spectator, May 2013 Domaine Huet is widely regarded as the best producer of Vouvray. Founded just after World War I, its three vineyards - Le Haut Lieu, Le Mont and Clos du Bourg produce all Chenin Blanc but the wines from these vineyards are dramatically different. The winery produces wines at many sweetness levels and sparkling wines as well. "Le Haut-Lieu" produces the most accessible wines of the portfolio. It is fermented in barrel on natural yeasts and aged a further six months in barrel before release. It drinks well after one year in the cellar and can age for up to 10, changing dramatically all along. I like to chill this wine very cold and then decant it before pouring. Allowing the wine to warm up unleashes an array of flavours that will continue to unfold as you enjoy the wine. |
Domaine des Baumard
Savennières "Clos de Saint-Yves" 2009
$34.95 per bottle, six bottles per case
"Beautifully pure, with salted butter, chamomile and quinine notes lacing up a core of creamed Jonagold apple and lanolin flavours. The long, creamy finish lets the chamomile edge play out elegantly. Drink now through 2018."
92 points, Wine Spectator, Nov 2012
Another village in the Loire that produces Chenin Blanc is Savennières. One of the appellation's most famed wineries is Domaine des Baumard, led by the dynamic Florent Baumard. What then is the difference between dry Vouvray and dry Savennières? Soil is one thing. Vouvray is typically grown in clay and gravel above tuffeau, a type of volcanic limestone; Savennières soil is dominated by slate and the wines show a more pronounced minerality and less fruitiness than Vouvray. Vouvray is the more humid of the two villages and botrytis is a possibility, giving wines a honeyed character, Savennières show more translucent fruit flavours and tend to have higher alcohol. Vouvray is for the wine enthusiast, Savennières is for the wine intellect. Either makes an exciting addition to your table or cellar. |
Maison Alex Gambal
Bourgogne Chardonnay 2011
$35.95 per bottle, six bottles per case
Alex Gambal's wines have always excited us. His entry-point Bourgogne Chardonnay is harvested from the domaine in Volnay, and grapes purchased from the lieu dits in Meursault, Le Haute Cote de Beaune and Savigny Les Beaune. Alex's vinification is very much in the traditional Burgundian method. The Chardonnay is all hand harvested and are gently pressed for 2-3 hours in a pneumatic bladder press. The free-run juice is placed in tank overnight for natural sedimentation. The clear juice is then put in barrel by gravity for fermentation with the selection of natural yeasts that occur in the vineyard.
Ageing occurs on the lees (spent yeast cells), without racking (removing the wine) for 10-16 months. Then the wine is racked once just before bottling and it is bottled by gravity after a light fining, but it is not filtered.
His wines are very expressive and flavourful, while at the same time being gentle and fresh. This entry point Bourgogne is a perfect wine for fresh goat's cheese crusted in crushed pistachios on a bed of baby greens or simply by itself.
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Maison Alex Gambal
Puligny-Montrachet 2010
$74.95 per bottle, six bottles per case
Alex's Chardonnay for this famous village-level wine is sourced from the lieu dit Clos du Vieux Chateau in the heart of Puligny-Montrachet. He produces all of his white wines with the same techniques, elaborated above, and if all things are equal the quality of the fruit and the terroir speaks through the wine.
"This has proven itself to be a consistently fine performer for its level and 2010 will not be an exception to this rule of excellence as there is lovely complexity to the acacia blossom, apple and pear suffused nose that is trimmed in background hints of wood toast. There is good richness to the refined and silky middle weight flavours that culminate in a tension-filled, balanced and lingering finish. A first-rate villages and worth your attention. Outstanding top value."
89 points, burghound.com, June 2012
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Château de Maligny
Chablis 1er Cru "Vau de Vey" 2012
$39.95 per 750ml bottle, twelve per case
$22.95 per 375ml bottle, twelve per case
Few wines excite the palate like good Chablis. I drink it all the time. Rarely does a dinner party occur without at least one bottle of Chablis to get our stomach growling and our palates salivating.
The Kimmeridgian clay soils that define the region produce concentrated, somewhat austere wine that pulls your attention in with each sip. It is simply amazing the depth of flavour Chardonnay can have when at the same time it is reticent, making you focus on your palate - unwinding the complexity.
Vau de Vey is a Premier Cru, south facing vineyard that slopes down for 200 meters and can reach a gradient of 45 or 50 degrees (!!) and so horses and machinery cannot be used. The soil is very poor, reducing vigour and forcing the vines to produce intense, concentrated grapes. Château de Maligny is largest owner of Vau de Vey with about 16 hectares in production.
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Château Anthonic 2010 Moulis-en-Medoc
$32.95 per bottle, twelve bottles per case
2010 is the second of back-to-back epic vintages on the Left Bank. The vintage's top collectable (and very expensive) wines are characterized as tannic wines that will be slow to mature. This wine provides drinkability as well as poise for ageing.
The reason for this young drinkability is that Chateau Anthonic is located in Moulis-en-Medoc, a region that sits west of Margaux where the Gironde has less influence and the soils are more clay based. Merlot thrives here, ripening early and producing rich, full bodied wines with supple, round tannins and moderate acidity. Poise and elegance are hallmarks of Chateau Anthonic's wines.
"Round, supple, cassis fruit, nice balance and length. Drink 2013-16"
3 stars "Recommended", Decanter magazine, April 2011
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Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage 2011
$34.95 per bottle, twelve bottles per case
Alain Graillot's best barrel selection "La Guiraude" has attained cult status, but his Crozes-Hermitage is wonderful as well. Refreshing and modest in alcohol, it displays bright red fruit flavours, medium mouthfeel palate cleansing acidty. This is a "sommelier" wine - not "showy" rather, versatile and palate pleasing.
"The charming 2011 Crozes-Hermitage offers loads of strawberry and cherry fruit, good ripeness, a creamy texture, medium body, good freshness and an up-front, evolved style that suggests drinking it over the next 5-6 years."
87 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Dec 2012
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Domaine Patrick Jasmin Côte Rôtie 2011
$67.95 per bottle, six bottles per case
"...the most elegant and polished wines of the Côte Rôtie." Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Patrick Jasmin is a fourth generation farmer, who tends 5 hectares spread across eleven parcels in eight lieu dits. The bold Syrah and Viognier blends from the "roasted slope" are matured in 3 and 4 year old barrels purchased from some of Burgundy's top domaines. This technique produces a very Burgundian, elegant style of wine; nothing like Guigal's "La La" wines all of which see new French oak and almost four years of ageing.
The treacherous vineyards above Ampuis are tended by hand as machines are useless here and the punch downs of the fermenting fruit is done by foot, in the traditional method. This is truly artisan wine!
"Deep ruby. High-pitched aromas of raspberry and cherry, with notes of smoky minerals and allspice adding complexity. Sappy, penetrating and light on its feet, offering fresh red fruit flavours that gain flesh and weight with aeration. Closes vibrant and long, with lingering spiciness and sneaky tannins."
89-91 points, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2013
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Château Fortia
"Tradition" Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010
$41.95 per bottle, twelve bottles per case
Château Fortia is one of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape's oldest properties with records dating back to the mid 18th century. They are old school yet still cool. Château Fortia ferments in cement tanks and raises their wines in foudres. The old vines speak for themselves, predominently Grenache, with lesser amounts of Syrah, Mourvedre and Counoise, which provide tannin, heft and more fruit flavour to the blend.
This is a new wine to our portfolio which has featured "Cuvée du Baron" for many years. The "Traditional" blend really delivers in the 2010 vintage, one of the greatest of recent memory.
"Lots of roasted mesquite and apple wood notes jump to the fore, with bay leaf, chestnut leaf, dark fig and blackberry fruit and a long finish tinged with wood spice and brick dust. A rock-solid, old-school version, with the tannic spine of the vintage. Best from 2014 through 2025. 9,000 cases made."
93 points, Wine Spectator, Oct 2012
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Chris McLean
416 961 2294 x 29
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