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Back to Our Roots
February 2013
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Greetings!
Rogers & Company was founded in 1984 by Joseph and Miriam Rogers, born out of their passion for fine French wine which initially led them to wineries of the Loire Valley. Today our catalogue encompasses 90 wineries, more than half of which are from California. So, I am revisiting our roots and writing about some of our small producers from the Loire Valley as well as a few wines from Bordeaux, Champagne and the Rhône Valley.
As always, our prices are per-bottle, tax inclusive, but exclusive of the $0.20 bottle deposits. We sell only by the unmixed case lot. Please visit us on the web and on facebook  .
All my best,
Chris.
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Domaine Luneau-Papin Muscadet de Sevre et Maine sur lie
"Les Pierre Blanches" 2011
$20.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
Some of the greatest values in French wine can be found in Muscadet. Not to be mistaken with the Muscat grape, Muscadet is a region in north-west France where the Loire River meets the Atlantic Ocean. The finest vineyards are located in the Sevre et Maine appellation and are planted on well-drained soils of schist (metamorphic, minerally soils that flake and split like shale) and limestone. The delicate, crisp wines of Muscadet are made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, which is a grape not known for overt fruitiness and so the wines are left sur lie (on their spent yeast cells which we call "lees") for weeks or months to develop an autolytic (subtle toasty or biscuity) character, enhancing their flavour profile.
The ageability of the best wines of the region is unbelievable. If you ever have the chance to try a 20 year old Muscadet de Sevre et Maine sur lie, you'll stagger. It's like opening a 20 year old white Burgundy at a fraction of the price.
If you have some time, click here to read a great profile of Domaine Luneau-Papin at one of my favourite websites, thewinedoctor.com. |

Domaine des Baumards Savennières"Clos de Saint Yves" 2009
$33.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
"Florent Baumard is one of the world's best winemakers, and you probably don't know him. That's because he produces Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley, an all-too-often overlooked region."
James Molesworth, Wine Spectator, March 13 2007.
The Baumards have been making wine in the Loire Valley since the early 1600s, but it was not until the mid 1900's when patriarch Jean Baumard began a vineyard acquisition and replanting effort that the Domaine came into its modern era.
The lieu-dit (a single vineyard or smaller section of a classified vineyard) Clos de Saint Yves was acquired in 1957 and is a single-vineyard of 6.5 hectares Chenin Blanc and 1 hectare of Verdelho planted on schist. Verdelho is not allowed in a Savennières wine and since 1986 Verdelho has been bottled separately as a vin de table. Of the Baumards' Savennières this is the most approachable when young, however, the use of only stainless steel as a fermentation and maturation vessel means that little oxygen is introduced and therefore some reduction in the flavours of the young wine is apparent, but this also alludes to the ageability of this "entry-point" wine.
If you really like dry whites but find the character of Sauvignon Blanc too distinct, then this may be a wine for you.
"Beautifully pure, with salted butter, chamomile and quinine notes lacing up a core of creamed Jonagold apple and lanolin flavours. The long, creamy finish lets the chamomile edge play out elegantly. Drink now through 2018."
92 points, Wine Spectator, Nov 2012
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Domaine Huët Vouvray "Le Haut Lieu" Sec 2011
$33.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
The first winery we ever represented, back in 1984, was another masterful producer of Chenin Blanc - Domaine Huët. The name Huët defines the Vouvray appellation and for many collectors, the Loire Valley as a whole. The long-story-short is that Victor Huët and his wife Anna-Constance left Paris for the fresh air of the French countryside to alleviate Victor's lung damage suffered during the first World War. Arriving in Vouvray they purchased a vineyard, and then two more, which today are three of the most famous in France - Le Haut Lieu, Le Mont and Le Clos du Bourg.
Huet's wines are made in every style - sec, demi-sec, pétillant, mousseux, moelleux, and fully botrytised (when a fungus dehydrates the grapes and they can produce a concentrated dessert wine) - their famous Cuvée Constance. The ageability of their wines is the stuff of legend and to this day constitute some of the oldest and most collectable found at auction.
We have no reviews from the top critics yet, but here is what Wine Spectator said about the 2010:
"Superracy, floral and pure, with enticing ginger, quince and mineral flavours that ripple through the filigreed finish. Lovely orange blossom and honeysuckle notes fill in the background. Dry, but still generous, with impressive length. Best from 2013 through 2018. 1,000 cases imported."92 points, Wine Spectator, Dec 2011 |

Domaine Masson-Blondelet
Pouilly-Fumé "Villa Paulus" 2011
$27.95 per 750 ml bottle, 12 bottles per case
$17.95 per 375 ml bottles, 12 bottles per case
This is one of my favourite Sauvignon Blancs. Grown on Kimmeridgian marl (a type of clay that has a high proportion of calcium from fossilized marine shells), a soil not found widely in Pouilly-Fumé but rather in Chablis, the wine is not powerful, but detailed and flinty with quinine, distant smoke, lemon, ginger and mineral flavours.
Michelle (née Blondelet) and Jean-Michel Masson created Domaine Masson-Blondelet when they got married in 1975, being the sixth generation of vine-growers and producers in the family. The estate is 21 hectares in size, which are planted on the best sites in the heart of the Pouilly-Fumé appellation. The entire operation employs only nine people and produces only estate grown wines, a true "family-artisan" winery.
An elegant Sauvignon Blanc such as this is a great "food wine". I would suggest pan-fried fish or quiches with fresh herbs as lovely matches.
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Domaine Henri Pellé Sancerre "La Croix au Garde" 2010
$30.95 per 750 ml bottle, 12 bottles per case
$18.95 per 375 ml bottles, 12 bottles per case (2011 vintage)
Although this winery is located 10 miles west of Sancerre in Menetou-Salon where they produce almost 1/4 of the tiny appellation's wines, their Sancerre is outstanding.
The estate is run by Anne Pellé, widow of Henri's son Eric, her son Paul-Henri makes the wines. Their wines are all organically grown and the wines are gently pressed with the stems included. They believe that this provides a network of drainage channels for the juice and therefore allows for more gentle pressing. Ingenious!
"This is the Ingrid Bergman of Sancerres - ravishing, polished and effortlessly elegant. In great years, besides having perfect tension between acidity and fruit, the wine has a unique kind of purity and clarity, with absolutely vivid smokey/minerally flavours. Pellé himself was considered one of the masters of the Sauvignon Blanc grape, and now his family carries on, making wines that are highly admired. The Pellé estate is perhaps best known for its extraordinary, rich, dramatic Menetou-Salon, which is also where the estate is located."
Karen McNeil, The Wine Bible
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Champagne Vilmart & Cie. "Grand Cellier" NV Brut Premier Cru
$74.95 per bottle, 6 bottles per case
One of the great values in the world of fine wine are the Champagnes from Vilmart & Cie., run by the brilliant Laurent Champs.
Decanter's expert Tom Stevenson calls the wines "poor man's Krug" and "Montrachet with bubbles", Wine Advocate raves "A hint of Ramonet here, a suggestion of Leflaive there....simply put, these are majestic wines that no one who loves fine Champagne will want to be without", and Peter Liem writes, "Vilmart & Cie. is not only one of the greatest grower-estates in Champagne, but one of the finest champagne producers of any type in the region."
"The NV Brut Cuvée Grand Cellier possesses gorgeous intensity in its piercing notes of lemon, white flowers and spices. Smoky, floral notes continue to emerge as the wine shows off its class and sheer energy. This is a great showing from the Grand Cellier. The Grand Cellier is 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir. This release is based on 2008, with reserve wines from 2007 and 2006. The fruit is sourced from Les Hautes Greves and Les Basses Greves, both in Rilly la Montagne. Dosage is 10 grams per liter. Disgorged May 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015."
92 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Nov 2011
"This mouthwatering bubbly layers a finely textured mousse with flavours of green apple, grapefruit zest, star fruit and spice. Lively and very harmonious, with a long, lingering finish. Drink now through 2016."
92 points, Wine Spectator, Nov 2011
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Champagne Vilmart & Cie. Cuvée Rubis NV
$78.95 per bottle, 6 bottles per case
The first Rosé Champagne we've offered in many years, Vilmart's Cuvée Rubis is textural, delicious and very food friendly.
The mark of a great Champagne house is the ability to reproduce their "house style" over and over again throughout the years. This is an end result of an excellent stock of base wines and a deft palate. Although our current supply is of a more recent disgorgement, Antonio Galloni of Robert Parker's Wine Advocate wrote his most recent review in December 2009. It should give you an idea of the quality and style of this Rosé:
"The NV Brut Premier Cru Cuvée Rubis flows from the glass with sensual layers of perfumed fruit, showing stunning detail, clarity and purity. This vivid, multi-dimensional Champagne is full of nuance, not to mention class. It is simply wonderful and is not to be missed. The Brut Premier Cru Cuvée Rubis is 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay (equal parts 2006 and 2005 vintages), aged in medium-sized barrels. Disgorged: December, 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016." 93 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Dec 2009
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Chateau Anthonic 2009 Cru Bourgeois Moulis-en-Medoc
$31.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
An excellent value "left-bank" Bordeaux, Anthonic is planted on 90% clay-limestone soil and 10% Garonne gravels, and therefore you'll find a higher proportion of Merlot in the blend, 68% in this vintage. Because of the meticulous attention to detail in the vineyard the fermentation is rather brief, 17 to 25 days and the wine is aged for 12 months in 1/3 new French oak and another 6 months in bottle.
"Fleshy and supple, with a generous feel to the plum, blackberry and black cherry fruit layers, all framed with integrated toast and a subtle tarry thread. Drink now through 2016. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 20,000 cases made." 89 points, Wine Spectator, web only 2013
"Barrel sample. Very soft, rounded wine, the tannins a mere hint as the fruit rolls forward. Fine, juicy spice."
89 points, Wine Enthusiast, Aug 2010
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Saint Jean du Barroux "L'Argile" 2009 Côtes du Ventoux
$34.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case arriving early April
Phillipe Gimel's wines are unreal. Unencumbered by oak, they are the perfect expression of his fractured southern French terroir.
Often times wineries will release small batches of wines from vineyards where they crop at 2-4 tons per acre. These wines are usually very intense, expensive and limited in production. This is because limiting your tonnage to this extent is almost unprofitable. The amount of labour, time and capital necessary to make wine demands that you produce more than this. Even the finest cult Napa Cabernets are often harvested at 4 or more tons per acre. Phillipe's L'Argile comes in at around 1.2 tons per acre and the wine below, La Pierre Noire, at less than 1. These are wines of love. Wines of character and as Wine Spectator's Matt Kramer would say, wines of "somewhereness".
"A stunning reference point for what can be achieved in the Cotes du Ventoux, the 2009 L'Argile is a blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 5% Carignan and 5% Cinsault aged 30 months in concrete tanks prior to being bottled unfiltered. The 2009 L'Argile exhibits a flowery yet quintessentially Provencal set of aromatics that smells like an open-air marketplace. Abundant red and black fruits, roasted herb, garrigue, licorice, lavender and spring flower aromas are followed by an opulent, rich wine with full-bodied power as well as incredible complexity and density. This is one of the most intriguing, individualistic wines I have tasted this year. Drink it over the next 5-7 years."
94 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Dec 2012 #2 "Exceptional Values", eRobertParker.com
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Saint Jean du Barroux "La Pierre Noire" 2007 Côtes du Ventoux
$49.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
"The estate's top wine and a blend 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah, the 2007 Saint Jean du Barroux Cotes du Ventoux La Pierre Noire is quite possibly the best Cotes du Ventoux I have ever tasted. Exhibiting a spectacular nose of framboise, wild strawberries, licorice, lavender, spring flowers, and pepper (among other things), this hits the palate with a full-bodied, concentrated, yet elegant and gorgeously proportioned mouth feel that has nothing out of place, masses of ripe tannin, and a dry, clean finish. Knockout stuff, it should be given 2-3 years of bottle age, and then consumed over the following decade or more."
95+ points, The Rhone Report, Oct 2012
"The 2007 Saint Jean du Barroux Côtes du Ventoux La Pierre Noire doses out loads of dark cherries, ripe plums, fresh lavender, dark chocolate along with some licorice and graphite just to name a few. This really develops a beautiful freshness as it opens up. Everything is all wrapped up in gorgeous soft and silky tannins that coat every inch of your palate. The wine evolves with every swirl of the glass, developing deep layers of complexities straight through to the very end. This is another fantastic wine from Philippe Gimel consisting of 85% Grenache, 15% Syrah. (Drink 2012-2022)"
94 points and #10 Wine of the Year, International Wine Report, May 2012
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Domaine Brusset Gigondas "Les Hauts de Montmirail" 2011
$49.95 per bottle, six bottles per case arriving early March
The Brusset family are masterful producers of Gigondas and "Les Hauts de Montmirail" is their pinnacle of production. For enthusiasts of modern Chateauneuf-du-Pape, this wine offers a great value alternative. Low yielding vines grown on small steep terraces produce a wine of immense depth and concentration. The soil itself is a combination of clay and rock located below the great Jurassic calcareous ridge of the "Dentelles de Montmirail". The 2011 has not yet been reviewed, but the previous 2 vintages each received 93 points from Wine Advocate. Here is last year's review to give you an idea as to what style to expect from the 2011. "The 2010 Gigondas Les Hauts de Montmirail is composed of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre, the Syrah and Mourvedre aged in small oak and the Grenache in tank. The soils here include more clay than those of the Traditional cuvée. A big, inky/black colour is followed by rich notes of blueberry liqueur, acacia flowers, graphite, licorice and scorched earth. With sweet tannin, a dense, full-bodied style, and better integrated oak than Brusset achieved 15-20 years ago, this brilliant, young, vibrant, full-throttle Gigondas can be drunk over the next 12-15 years."
93 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Oct 2012
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Chris McLean 416 961 2294 x 29 |
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