 This month we salute our founding fathers, lovers and hope a certain furry creature does not see his shadow on the second, which would predict six more weeks of winter weather. Quick, somebody take Phil's glasses away from him. That would be groundhog Phil Punxsutawney of Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania. We also hope we do not repeat Groundhog Day endlessly as Bill Murray does in the movie. February 14 is also a day of celebration for florists and chocolatiers.
Speaking of chocolate, what wines go with it? That is one of the topics for this month, but if Phil predicts six more weeks of chilly weather, maybe that should be hot chocolate.
Looks like someone did hide Phil's glasses and we'll have an early spring. That also suggests I got the newsletter out a bit late. Sorry, I was in Punxsutawney.
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Spotlight on a Winery: Southwest Wines
New Mexico's largest winery and one of the largest in the US is Southwest Wines, which encompasses St. Clair, Blue Teal and DH Lescombes. The last is named for the founding family and my favorite label. They also have a number of specialty wines. The total count is over 80 wines and they also make wines for other wineries and tasting rooms. The St. Clair Winery in Deming is huge.
I toured the facility with Farid Himeur not too long ago, sampling white wines from the tank, red wines from oak casks and current wines in their tasting room. It was heavenly. Since we are nearing Valentine's Day, I'll list some good choices to go with your Brix. (See below.)
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 Wine Question of the Month: How much is wine marked up at a restaurant?
When I do a restaurant review, one of the factors I check off is the mark-up on wine. Most restaurants get their wines not much above wholesale from a wine distributor. The question is how much above this point is the wine listed, assuming a wine menu is available online, which many restaurants do publish. Everyone's price point for selecting a wine varies, of course, as does the importance of wine with a meal.
I begin complaining when the price is more than twice the retail, which can be up to three times the restaurant's cost. When it rises to three time retail, I avoid the place, and there are Albuquerque and Santa Fe restaurants that do charge that much, but none that I'll mention.
Most Sonoma and Napa Valley restaurants keep the wine cost within reason, in part because this is wine country and they may also have good relations with local wineries. In Florence, Italy many years ago I had just been wine tasting at Barone Ricasoli Winery in Tuscany and saw the same wine I'd purchased on the menu. It was marked up less than a dollar over what I paid for it! That's the difference when wine is considered a vital part of the meal, and for Italians, it is vital.
However, there are many costs a restaurant must factor in when deciding on what price to set a wine. Stocking, re-stocking and storage costs as well as wine spoilage must be considered. As a result most diners will pay a premium to enjoy a good wine with their meal. One thing to check is how high the markup is for a premium wine that retails for $50 or more. Often the percentage is less because of the much higher price for the wine.
That does not seem to apply in Las Vegas, however, where cult wines go for ridiculous markups. After all, if you've just won a jackpot, why not spend it all on a nice magnum of 1961 Chateau Petrus which should only set you back a hundred thousand or so . . . gulp!
Here is another related tip: If you can't decide between two wines to find out which one will pair better, ask your server for a taste of each if they are also available by the glass. A good restaurant will be happy to comply as it means a bottle sale. Dining establishments with a good wine-by-the-glass list provide us with more flexibility in making the right wine choice, so use it. Go to my wine picks to see two wines I chose at local restaurants that I thought were good deals.
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Jim's Picks of the Month
As a follow-up to my wine tip this month, here are two good value wines I selected at local restaurants.  Stoneleigh Pinot Noir comes from the Marlborough district of New Zealand. The vineyard was once part of a river bed and the stones that remain; "sun stones" as Stoneleigh calls them retain their heat and provide warmth at night. Some French vineyards also use this technique. It also shapes the wines and this Pinot is a good example of the great value of Marlborough Pinot and Sauvignon Blanc wines. I recently enjoyed this wine with salmon at Vintage 423, a new and exciting restaurant on Paseo del Norte and Wyoming. "This wine has a deep, ruby red hue with a fragrant bouquet of red plums, raspberry and black cherry overlaid with integrated oak spice. The palate shows ripe, red berry fruit and cherry flavors with lingering fruit sweetness. Tannins are fine and integrated, making the wine immediately approachable." -Jamie Marfell, Winemaker Kenwood 2010 Yulupa Pinot Noir sources its grapes from the Sonoma coast. Red berry aromas, vanilla and spice expand to boysenberry and cherry on the palate with well integrated tannins in this balanced wine with an exceptional finish for a mid-level Pinot. I sampled this with another Pinot at Yanni's Mediterranean Bar & Grill on Central Avenue for pairing with my lamb chops. I have always had a great meal at Yanni's which is why we keep going back. |
 From the Mailroom: Questions from Readers
I've heard that wine legs are a check on wine quality. Is that true?
This is wine myth number 1, or maybe 2. It still persists because some wine counter persons had not been properly trained. I was told this more than once at California wineries back in the late 80s, but I hope most of them now know this is a myth. The technical term for the presence of wine "legs" or "tears" as they are sometimes called, is the Gibbs-Marangoni effect.
This phenomenon was first identified in the so-called "tears of wine" by physicist James Thomson (Lord Kelvin's brother) in 1855. (WikiPedia)
The effect has been linked with wine ever since. The amount of tears or legs is more pronounced in wines with a higher percentage of alcohol. Check the legs on that glass of port sometime. That hardly translates to quality, unless the quality you most admire in wine is its alcohol content.
Wine legs are also known as the Lava Lamp of the wine world. Say, there's an idea, stick a light under your wine glass and amaze all your friends, particularly the ones that enjoy really big legs.
Have a wine, winery or wine accessory question for Jim? Email your question to Jim.
Due to volume we cannot guarantee that all answers will be posted to the newsletter; however, all questions will receive responses from Jim.
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| Wine tip of the Month: Valentine's Day Wines
Unless your sweetheart planned to serve the flowers you gave her, most of the time it is wine pairing with chocolate that is the focus of Valentine's Day. That typically means red wines, but not always. Most medium-bodied to full-bodied red wines with a moderate tannic base can work quite well with chocolate. Like cheeses, even a mediocre red wine can taste better with cocoa-infused confections. However, I'd suggest selecting a wine you already know and enjoy with this pairing. As always a wine with good acidity and a good mouthfeel will enhance the combinations.
The Chocolate Continuum
Just as most wine has its own unique flavor profile, so do chocolates. The percentage of cacao, the amount of milk if any, and other additives shape the flavor and also influence the pairings. In New Mexico, with our passion for all things pepper-based, we get a potent hit from indulging in chile-infused truffles.
The texture of the candy is analogous to mouthfeel in wine, and serves as one variable. The visual appeal is another factor in judging the pairing, as is the attack, mid-palate and finish of the candy. OK, maybe that's a bit of an exaggeration. One advantage of chocolates: you don't have to swirl to pick up the heady aroma of a well-crafted confection.
Here is where one challenge comes in; how do you deal with the other ingredients? Caramel, fruit fillings, coconut, nuts of every type all add their own spin to the mix. What wine goes best with caramel, for example? And does temperature play a role as it does with wine? Do you need to get that sticky stuff off your teeth before indulging in another pairing?
Brix to the Rescue
What one needs, it would appear, is a way to focus on the chocolate component, meaning working with pure chocolate without fillings. As it happens, one company is way ahead of us here. Brix chocolates for wine was developed by Dr. Nick Proia as an alternative to cheeses (high fat content), and replacing it with the healthy benefits of eating chocolate. What, you didn't know there were health benefits to chocolate? Dr. Proia's focus was cocoa-based products that paired well with wine. There are four types of Brix, each created to complement particular red and white wines.
The Brix extra dark (70% cocoa) works with Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux and Barolo (Nebbiolo), for example. The Brix medium dark (60% cocoa) works with Zinfandel, Syrah, Merlot and Rhone. I'm guessing the Rhone here is northern Rhone which is principally Syrah. The Brix milk chocolate pairs with Port, Ice Wine, Rose, Pinot Noir and Burgundy (Pinot Noir). Finally, the Brix smooth dark (54% cocoa) goes with Champagne, Riesling, Pinot Noir and vintage Port.
The common form of Brix is a brick. One takes an ice pick - shades of Basic Instinct - and chisels off pieces to taste with a select wine. It is not heart-shaped and does not come in Valentine's Day box, so I'd advise the gift giver have a delectable bottle of wine to go with it.
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Around New Mexico with the Southwestern Wine Guy
This month I will be at Bookworks at 4022 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, NM 87107. The date is February 16, Saturday at 3:00pm. I will be doing a short presentation called "Making Sense of Scents" an experiential journey into wine aroma scents using a professional wine aroma kit that I use for training my palate to detect nuances in a wine. No wine will be consumed during this presentation, but attendees will learn about the elements that make up a wine's aromas and how to detect them. I will also be available to answer your wine questions and sign your copy of Wines of Enchantment.
I will also be wine judging for the 2013 New Mexico Cup International Wine & Beer Competition on February 15 and also be on hand for the festival celebrating the winners at the Albuquerque Convention Center on February 16 before and after the Bookworks book signing to sign even more books. That gives you two venues to come see me and buy a book. No excuses!
I also wanted to say congratulations to Treasure House Books in Old Town- the are the newest store to carry my book. I will be there for another book signing in May!
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May your love of wine and love of your lover collide this month. Let the romance flow as freely as the vino!
Valentine's Day wishes!
Your Southwestern Wine Guy
Jim Hammond
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Jim Hammond has been exploring wines in North America, Europe and Australia for more than 20 years. A published author, he includes information about wine
in every book. |
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"Wines of Enchantment the Centennial Edition"
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Wines of Enchantment, 2nd Ed
ISBN # 978-1466453432
$12.95
Available through Amazon.com
Please do me the favor to go to Amazon and rate my book.
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A Unique Party Idea
Spend an entire evening with Jim, the Wine Maestro, and learn fun facts, such as the difference between a Bordeaux and a Burgundy, or what the ritual of tilting, swirling and sniffing a wine before taking the first sip is all about.
You and your guests will delight in Jim's light humorous and information-packed style when you include a Wine Maestro presentation in your
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Wine Trivia
Do You Know the Answer?
The Appellation d'Origine Control�e (AOC), the French regulatory group, defines among other things the types of grapes each wine region can grow to make wine. Match the French wine region with the grape(s) permitted.
- Chardonnay
- Pinot Noir
- Cabernet Sauvignon
- Sauvignon Blanc
- Merlot
a. Burgundy
b. Champagne
c. Loire Valley
d. Bordeaux
e. Languedoc-Roussillon
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