Spotlight on a Winery Vivac Winery, Dixon, NM
The Padberg family is all about wine. Chris and Jesse work the land and make the wine while Michele and Liliana ably handle the wine business end. And few wineries have grabbed the attention of the wine buying public as fast as Vivac Winery in Dixon, New Mexico. Founded in 1998, the winery has grown in grapes planted and varieties of wines made. Vivac has been praised in USA Today and profiled in a new HGTV website about touring the nation's wineries.
I still remember driving past the signage on highway 68 heading north to Taos and thinking, Gee, I should stop in there sometime. That didn't happen until later while I was doing research on my first wine book. I discovered I'd been missing one of the gems of northern New Mexico. A self-induced kick in the behind later, I was sampling some of the state's best red wines. They also make very good white wines, but it was the reds that continually draw me back to Vivac. I recently served the Vivac 2009 Nebbiolo with rack of lamb for my wife's birthday and again, shamelessly, on Thanksgiving. It went great with the lamb and turkey dark meat. This red wine grape originated in Piedmont, Italy, where it is made into the famous Barolo and Barbaresco wines. The Vivac Nebbiolo wines are part of that great tradition. They are complex, well-balanced with well integrated tannins and aromas that evoke their Piedmont lineage. I visited Vivac over the Thanksgiving holiday to get more of this wine, and was also enchanted by their new V-series 2009 Syrah, which is blended with 15% Merlot and 5% Tempranillo and aged in French barriques for 24 months. The wine is more "Old World" than new with the earthy elements, leather and dried herbs one finds in the northern Rhone Syrah wines. Or to be technical about it: yummy! I restocked on the V-series 2007 Merlot and added some more of the 2009 Tempranillo and also grabbed some of the 2011 Dolcetto, always a crowd pleaser. Does that answer everyone's question of what I think of Vivac? There are lots more holidays on the horizon and plenty of excuses to open more Vivac wines. I will be, how about you? |
 Wine Question of the Month: Wine Legs
OK, I get this question asked just about every wine class I do. This is wine myth # 2. The legs are actually a visualization of the Gibbs-Marangoni effect. Wow, that sounds impressive, huh? I'll leave the science of this for you to investigate, but basically the legs or tears formed are more pronounced when the wine has a higher percentage of alcohol, all other things being equal, which they seldom are.
Trying to guess the alcohol level from this is a fool's game, better you should read the label for alcohol content. However some of these indicators are pretty hard to find, too, so if your take your caliper to measure them I won't complain.
What wine legs are not is an indicator of wine quality. More properly, legs are the lava lamp of the wine world. You should be checking the color of the wine and its clarity, not the legs. Check out any Astaire-Rogers picture if you really want to see legs.
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Jim's Picks of the Month
Aconga 2011 Bonarda-Merlot $11: I previously commented on the Aconga 2011 Chenin Blanc-Chardonnay, claiming it as a best buy and now an Aconga red deserves the same praise. This wine won two silver medals at prestigious wine competitions and deserved them. Bonarda was until recently the most widely planted red wine grape in Argentina and is believed to be of the Bonarda-Piemontese variety. In other words it is an Italian grape originating in the Piedmont region. The addition of Merlot softens the wine. The wine while not complex is well structured and balanced delivering good red fruit flavors and a nice tannic backbone. I found opening this wine at least an hour before serving really opened it up. Highly drinkable, you won't disappoint your guests with this one and it's at the same low price as the Aconga white at Smith's food stores. A half case goes for under $4.00 a bottle, which almost puts it in the 3-buck Chuck category, but with a far better pedigree. Smith and Kroger are two of the prime distributors currently and have by far the best price for this wine, but don't expect it to stay this low for long (Or still be on Smith's wine shelf if you dally too long.) Alderbrook 2005 Three Goose Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley: I checked the Alderbrook website and the oldest version of this wine still available is the 2006 for club members. I mention it because Alderbrook Zinfandel wines are the class of Dry Creek Valley and Russian River Zins. This wine was huge, multi-layered, rich, balanced, dark fruit and black pepper and a long, long finish; an outstanding effort. Alderbrook currently has six Zinfandel single vineyard or reserve wines plus a Zinfandel port. Every time I visit their delightful tasting room I end up buying some of each. The Zinfandel wines go from $25 to $36, and worth every penny. Alderbrook Zinfandel and the holidays were made for each other. Vivac Winery: I already made Vivac my winery of the month and here are three of their wines absolutely not to be missed. The V-series wines are Vivac's select or reserve wines and very special. Check out the excellent website for other specials, recipes to go with many of their wines, and upcoming events. Vivac 2009 V-series Syrah $26: I commented on this wine already, but if you are a Syrah lover, this is one you need to check out. The wine evokes the classical northern Rhone Syrah style. Also check out the Syrah lamb burger recipe on the Vivac website. Winemaker notes: Dark stone fruits, savory spices & toasted nuts, and bold fruit. Vivac 2007 V-series Merlot $24 on sale for $18: Good at its original price, but too good to pass up at its sale price. A great holiday wine so grab a bunch. Winemaker notes: Baking herbs, sweet spices & ripe dark berries, this wine is a Cab lovers Merlot.
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 From the Mailroom: Questions from Readers
New this month is another column on questions I receive from my readers. The one below is also appropriate for the holiday season. Below is my response to the querent, who is also a good friend.
What wine should I serve with fruitcake?
Regarding your wine and food pairing question; you really like to present challenges, don't you? You couldn't have chosen plum pudding or mincemeat pie, huh? Besides there were only ten fruitcakes ever made that have been circulating house-to-house for decades now. Who actually eats that stuff?
However, always enjoying a challenge, here goes. Fruitcake is usually mostly candied fruit with just enough cake to hold it all together. In other words, it's intensely sweet. The best way to cut through that is with a sparkling wine and not one that is sweet itself. The wine should be close to bone dry, but with trace elements of sweetness. Sparkling wines that include the Pinot Noir grape are also helpful, as in Blanc de Noirs versions.
Also a dry sparkling ros� will work here. The higher concentration of the Pinot Noir grape, even in a dry sparkler gives the impression of rich red fruit that contrasts rather than reinforces the fruitcake's high sugar content. It can even make the fruitcake respectable enough to encourage more of it to be consumed instead of being put out next Christmas holiday season when it will taste exactly the same.
In New Mexico that means Gruet Brut (NV), Gruet Blanc de Noirs (NV), Gruet Sauvage (bone dry) (NV), Gruet Ros� (NV) and Gruet 2007 Grande Ros�. NV means non-vintage as grapes are blended from multiple years. Vintage sparkling wine and champagne are only made during exceptional years for the grapes used in the wine, such as the 2007 Grande Ros�, which is an exceptional wine. This is one that could have your guests asking for more fruitcake as well as Gruet. Wouldn't that be a shocker?
Have a wine, winery or wine accessory question for Jim? Email your question to Jim.
Due to volume we cannot guarantee that all answers will be posted to the newsletter; however, all questions will receive responses from Jim.
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Tip of the Month: Stock up on Sparklers Now
You may be thinking, I should get some champagne or sparkling wine for the holidays. Now that Thanksgiving is past, what are you waiting for? It is best to stock up now or get ready for the inevitable sales before Christmas and New Year's Eve.
Here are three tips for you; Gruet, Gruet and Gruet. Yes there are many good domestic sparkling wines to choose from and many imported sparkling wines and champagne. Champagne only comes from Champagne, France, of course, and Spanish Cava and Italian Prosecco are popular and inexpensive, but the best bargain is still Gruet.
The Brut, Blanc de Noirs and Blanc de Blancs extra dry non-vintage (NV) wines are very well-priced. The slightly more expensive Gruet NV Sauvage and Gruet Ros� top most similar domestic wines selling for much more. For special occasions the Gruet 2007 Grande Ros� and 2007 Blanc de Blancs are not to be missed. Once you have these safely home you can grab some on-sale sparklers for those open house events you attend. However, in New Mexico, if you don't bring the Gruet, your host may give you a questioning look, so buyers beware.
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Around New Mexico with the Southwestern Wine Guy
Know your target audience. Who are your most important customers, clients or prospects, and why? Know what is important to them and address their needs in your newsletter each month. Include a photo to make your newsletter even more appealing. Add a "Find out more..." link to additional information on your website. |
Take time for warm evening conversations with friends and family, and for savoring fine wines and the people you care about. For holiday wine ideas and more please check out my blog or website.
Holiday Cheers!
Your Southwestern Wine Guy Jim Hammond
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Jim Hammond has been exploring wines in North America, Europe and Australia for more than 20 years. A published author, he includes information about wine
in every book. |
"Wines of Enchantment the Centennial Edition"
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Wines of Enchantment, 2nd Ed
ISBN # 978-1466453432
$12.95
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A Christmas Short Story
Up on the Rooftop
by Jim Hammond
A silent sled sits atop Max Rembrandt's toy shop; the last thing Max and his late father worked on. Now as the anniversary of his father's death draws near, Max wanders the streets of Ruidoso pondering how he can reclaim the Christmas spirit that was all but extinguished by his father's passing. His good friend Robert has an idea, but it requires that sled with Santa and his reindeer to come alive once again. Visit some Christmas magic this season with Up On the Rooftop by Jim Hammond. |
A Unique Party Idea
Spend an entire evening with Jim, the Wine Maestro, and learn fun facts, such as the difference between a Bordeaux and a Burgundy, or what the ritual of tilting, swirling and sniffing a wine before taking the first sip is all about.
You and your guests will delight in Jim's light humorous and information-packed style when you include a Wine Maestro presentation in your
party plans. |
Wine Trivia
Do You Know the Answer?
Why are the classical Bordeaux and Burgundy bottles shaped differently?
- An ongoing war in the region. They don't even like the same grapes.
- The high shoulders of the Bordeaux bottle more easily trap sediments.
- The Burgundy bottle has the more elegant shape, which is how the war started.
- The Burgundy bottle is used for red and white wines.
- Actually, they both have the same shape.
To find the answer,
click here.
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