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Piscataquis and Penobscot
Gardening Newsletter
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Practical horticultural information based on university research
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Where has the month of May gone?
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We've had a big influx of excellent questions this month that have kept us very busy. Here are some of the interesting inqueries for the month of May.
What can I do about these darned grubs? 
Once again, many homeowners are distressed to find bare patches throughout their lawns. To avoid this problem in the future, it's important to educate yourself about the biology of the pest causing the damage and understand the importance of proper timing of pesticide applications. UMaine Cooperative Extension Pest Management has very helpful information about white grubs on their website: http://umaine.edu/home-and-garden-ipm/frequent-specimens/frequent-white-grubs/.
Can I plant my beans now?
It's probably too early. I recommend getting a thermometer that you can devote to measuring soil temperatures to determine when to directly sow seed. Any thermometer will do the trick as long as it accurately reads temperatures in the range in which you'll be measuring (medical thermometers often won't do the trick). Here's a good article on how to read soil temperature and the factors that will influence soil temperature: http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/agdex1203. While you're waiting to plant your beans, peas, spinach, onion sets/seedlings, leek seedlings, and other crops tolerant of cooler soil temperatures can go in. Here's a great list of temperature requirements for seed germination of a number of veggie crops: https://store.aces.edu/ItemDetail.aspx?ProductID=13958.
I'm not planting my vegetable garden this season. What would be a good cover crop to plant?
I like to grow a mix of field peas and feed oats as a cover crop for areas not planted all summer. Both will die back reliably, although the peas (if you let them go to seed), may come back in your field next year (from seed). MOFGA has a great publication on cover crops: Using Green Manures.
What is this plant? I picked it up at a plant sale fundraiser and now it's all  over my perennial garden and lawn.
Your enemy is Euphorbia cyparissias. Lois Stack provided the following information about control methods: "Since Euphorbia and most perennial garden plants are dicots, any chemical that would control Euphorbia would also kill the other garden plants. I have never had to control this species but the literature is full of statements that this is a very difficult weed to control chemically, partly because it has a waxy cuticle that impedes chemical penetration. There are both sterile diploid and fertile tetraploid populations of this plant. That's worth noting, because I think that if this is a population of seedlings, they could probably be controlled in the spaces between perennials by using a scuffle or stirup hoe at this time of year, when the seedlings are small. However, if this is a group of shoots arising from the root system of either type, they'd need to be dug out." After pulling out whatever roots you can, I recommend putting down a physical barrier, such as a layer of cardboard or thick layer of newspapers, topped with a 50/50 mix of mulch and compost (for visual purposes).
What are these flies I'm seeing around my seedlings growing in my house?
It's tough without seeing the insect, but there's a good chance they're fungus gnats. They thrive in moist conditions where they feed on fungus, algae, and decaying plant material. The first step in attempting to mitigate the problem is to allow the top layer of the soil to dry out in between waterings. For more information about the biology and management of this pest, see this bulletin from Colorado State.
What is this beautiful beetle? 
This shimmery ground beetle (Carabus auratus) has been spotted on several occasions in the landscape around the Bangor Extension office and has occasionally been found wandering our hallways and classroom too. C.auratus is a "good bug" that feeds on slugs, worms, cutworms, and other invertebrates. If spotted, enjoy it's beauty and do not cause it any harm.
"Like" our Facebook Pages
If you want to see the types of questions we are getting in the Extension Offices you can "Like" one (or both) of our Facebook pages where we try to post two or three times a week. Find us at https://www.facebook.com/umaineextpsq for Piscataquis or https://www.facebook.com/pages/University-of-Maine-Cooperative-Extension-Penobscot-County/107319049291159 for Penobscot
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Take the time to harden off seedlings - it's worth it!
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Many new and seasoned gardeners have experienced the heartache of loosing seedlings in the early season because the plants were not properly acclimated to cooler temperatures, higher light levels, and increased air flow. This acclimation process is referred to as "hardening off".
How to harden off seedlings
It's easy. Begin by placing young plants outside for short periods of time during the day. Ideally, they should start out in an area protected from the wind and out of intense sunlight. Each day, increase the number of hours the seedlings are outside and their exposure to sunlight and air movement. Also begin to reduce the amount of water you provide. Continue this process for at least a week; two weeks is even better. Don't worry about having a delayed planting date. In our area, early June is a great time to plant your tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and squash. Crops such as broccoli, onions, leeks, kale, lettuce, and cabbage need less time to harden off and, therefore, can be planted sooner.
When purchasing seedlings, find out if the nursery or garden center has begun to harden off the seedlings already. If the plants are on display in the open (i.e. not in a greenhouse or covered structure), ask the salesperson how many days they've been displayed outside and if the seedlings have been outside overnight. They should be able to tell you if the seedlings require any additional hardening off.
What happens when you don't harden off seedlings?
Seedlings can experience a greater amount of transplant shock and cold stress. Sometimes the seedlings do not recover from this stress. Minimize transplant shock by protecting transplants with row cover or with other season extension strategies.
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Giant Hogweed a noxious invasive plant
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This is the time of the year when the weather is offering favorable conditions for plants to bloom. It's also time to look out for certain hazardous plants, such as giant hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum). This herbaceous plantstarts growing in early spring, flowers in June-July, and produces seeds in August. During the first few years of growth, the aerial parts of the plant will die back over the winter. The whole plant generally dies after it produces a flower and seeds, which usually takes between three to four years. However, if the main root has developed side shoots they could grow new plants the following year.
Identification
Giant hogweed is not native to America. This invasive species grows in moist soil and inhabits many wasteland and riversides areas in both sun and shade with plants reaching a height up to 9 to 15 feet. It's most easily recognized when in flower, the large umbrella shaped inflorescence is composed of many small white florets that produce an average of 20,000 viable seeds. Large, deeply incised leaves with three leaflets and a 3 inche diameter green stem with extensive purple splotches and prominent coarse white hairs are the most noticeable characteristics.
The hazard
This plant produces hazardous chemical compounds found in the sap that, in combination with moisture and sunlight, poses a serious health threat to humans and causes a severe skin inflammation known as phyto-photodermatitis. The skin exposed to this toxic sap, becomes highly sensitive to UV-rays hence the skin will show severe burns that can recur for many years and is very difficult to heal, causing scars that can last for a long period of time, but not only that, if the sap comes into contact with the eyes can cause temporary and sometimes permanent blindness. If you come in contact with this sap, the best thing to do is immediately wash the affected area thoroughly with cold soapy water and keep the area away from sunlight for 48 hours. If a reaction occurs, see your physician as soon as possible.
What you can do to help
Giant hogweed is listed as a noxious weed by the US government, which means it is prohibited by law to move this plant between states without the authorization of USDA and is illegal to import into the United States.
Please keep an eye out for this dangerous plant when practicing outdoor activities, exercise caution around it, do no touch it, and protect yourself and family members from this plant. For more information and photos, click here
If you encounter this plant in your area, please contact the Maine Department of Agriculture at the Animal and Plant Health Division (207) 287-3891, to report it.
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Please do not release indoor composting worms
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Despite what you can read on the internet, composting worms should not be released in "the wild". They are doing severe damage and changing the nature of our forests by consuming the forest litter and changing the chemistry of the soil as well as the composition. If you love maple syrup, keep your worms in bins.
For more info:
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UMaine 4-H Camp & Learning Center at Bryant Pond
The University of Maine 4-H Camp & Learning Center at Bryan Pond is inviting your children to join us at the 8th Annual Youth Field Day at Bryant Pond 4-H Camp and Learning Center on June 1, 2013 from 9:00 am to 3:00 pm.
Many camp programs will be represented and activities will include: archery, riflery, fishing, canoeing and kayaking, ATV safety, ME Warden Service K-9 unit, and more.
Come to learn more about this great youth resource or check out at UMaine 4-H Camp & Learning Center at Bryant Pond
4-H Camp & Learning Centers at Tanglewood & Blueberry Cove
Be sure to check out the opportunities for summer camp fun at our 4-H camps at Tanglewood in Lincolnville and Blueberry Cove in Tenants Harbor. These camps are available for ALL youth, NOT JUST 4-H MEMBERS.
See them at this website: 4-H Camp & Learning Centers at Tanglewood & Blueberry Cove
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Featured Recipe - Fiddlehead Dijon
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Simple, inexpensive, seasonal recipes from Cooperative Extension
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Ingredients:
- 1-1/2 pounds fresh fiddleheads
- 1 tablespoon cornstarch
- 1 cup nonfat buttermilk
- 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
- 3/4 teaspoon lemon juice
- 1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon
- 1/4 teaspoon pepper
Makes 6 servings
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Directions:
- Clean and prepare fiddleheads. Remove scales and wash thoroughly.
- Place fiddleheads in a vegetable steamer over boiling water. Cover and steam 20 minutes or until tender, but still crisp. Set aside, and keep warm.
- Combine cornstarch and buttermilk in a small saucepan; stir well. Cook over medium heat until thickened and bubbly, stirring constantly. Remove from heat; stir in mustard, lemon juice, tarragon and pepper.
- Arrange fiddleheads on a serving platter. Spoon sauce over fiddleheads. Serve immediately.
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Anemonella and Lily of the Valley
This clever mix of spring blooms were found in the moon garden at Rogers Farm.
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Garlic Seedlings
We planted bulbils from our garlic last fall and are looking forward to having them develop into MANY garlic rounds that we'll re-plant this fall. In August of 2014, they'll be ready to harvest as full heads of garlic.
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Colorful Spring Mix
Yellow primrose, orange/red spirea, and pale pink quince spotted in the karesansui garden at Rogers Farm.
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Rogers Farm Summer Programs - all events are free and open to the general public
Open House Every Tuesday 5:30-6:30pm, June - August - meet the Master Gardener volunteers who make the magic happen at Rogers Farm! Bring your questions and expand your gardening knowledge.
Establishing a Native Plant Border, 6pm June 18 - Learn how to select both woody and herbaceous native plants for a border planting. You'll learn proper soil preparation and planting practices as you watch Master Gardeners install a native plant border right before your eyes.
Seed Saving and Plant Propagation, 6pm July 23 - Laura Budde, FoodCorps Maine Fellow, will discuss the art and science behind saving seeds and Kate Garland will demonstrate how to propagate certain shrubs by taking cuttings.
Art in the Garden, 6pm August 20 - Celebrate the beauty and magic of the demonstration garden in full bloom. Activities for all ages include: interactive demonstrations, live musicians, poetry, and delicious food.
Bangor Community Garden Accepting Applications through the end of May
4x8' raised-bed plots in prime Bangor location (near the intersection of Essex Street and Stillwater Ave) are available to lease for the 2013 growing season. Join fellow gardeners in a safe and enjoyable place to get your hands dirty, learn, harvest, and share time with your neighbors. Applying is as easy as 1, 2, 3!
3. Complete the Bangor Community Garden survey Questions are welcome! Call 207-385-2500.
Piscataquis County Chapter of the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association
East Sangerville Grange to Host Discussion on Creating a Piscataquis MOFGA Chapter on Sunday, June 9at 5pm at the East Sangerville Grange in Sangerville. R.S.VP is not required but appreciated. If you have any questions, or just want to let them know you're planning to come send a message to the East Sangerville Grange at
esangervillegrange@gmail.com.
Join the Dover-Foxcroft Gardeners
Whether, you're a novice, an expert gardener or somewhere in between. You're invited to join the Dover-Foxcroft Gardeners. This group started last year, planning to meet once a month to discuss a wide range of gardening topics including: annuals and perennials, shrubs, border plantings, and much more! Meetings will be a great opportunity to share success stories, challenges, ideas for projects and activities, gardening tips and creative ideas. Meetings will be every third Wednesday of the month. For more information call: Dotty Hadler at 564-7256.
Find Area Farm Stands and Farmers' Markets
The Maine Department of Agriculture, Conservation and Forestry maintains a website where you can search for local farms or local farmers' markets by county or town or by product that they sell. Check it out at http://www.getrealmaine.com/.
Sign up for the Maine Home Garden News
You may access the most current issue of the 2013 Maine Home Garden News at: http://umaine.edu/gardening/maine-home-garden-news/
3) OR, like/follow us on Facebook and/or Twitter to hear about updates.
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Mission
University of Maine Cooperative Extension is the major educational outreach program of the University of Maine with offices statewide. UMaine Extension provides Maine people with research-based educational programs to help them live fuller, more productive lives.
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Mission
University of Maine Cooperative Extension is the major educational outreach program of the University of Maine with offices statewide. UMaine Extension provides Maine people with research-based educational programs to help them live fuller, more productive lives. |
In complying with the letter and spirit of applicable laws and pursuing its own goals of diversity, the University System shall not discriminate on the grounds of race, color, religion, sex, sexual orientation, including transgender status or gender expression, national origin, citizenship status, age, disability, or veteran's status in employment, education, and all other areas of the University System. The University provides reasonable accommodations to qualified individuals with disabilities upon request. A member of the University of Maine System.
Information in this newsletter is provided purely for educational purposes. No responsibility is assumed for any problems associated with the use of products or services mentioned in this newsletter. No endorsement of products or companies is intended, nor is criticism of unnamed products or companies implied.
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Surface mail recipients can contact their county Extension office for further information when web links are included in an article.
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Penobscot Office
307 Maine Ave. Bangor, ME 04401 207-942-7396 or 800-287-1485
Piscataquis Office
165 East Main St. Dover-Foxcroft, ME 04426 207-564-3301 or 800-287-1491 |
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 Penobscot County Piscataquis County |
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