DLC vs Blue 20 November 2012 Alpine

Tribloc Blue vs Tribloc Black (DLC) - LF or HF

Tribloc Blue is an outstanding cold wax. Due to its hardness and fluorine content (LF or HF depending), it is very fast in a broad range of cold conditions and durable and it minimizes the negative effects of a dirty track very well. This is our go-to wax in all colder conditions (straight or with XCold mixed in when it is cold and slow). The softer Tribloc Black (DLC in either LF or HF) is a more specific wax designed to combat the tricky condition where dirt, water, and/or aggressive snow are present. Normally a soft hydrophobic wax such as yellow is most effective in wet conditions. However, these soft hydrophobic waxes are poor in dirty and aggressive snow conditions. They pick up and drag on the dirt, the ski base gets dirty, and then things are slowed down by both the dirt on the base as well as the water because the dirty bases no longer are effective in addressing the free water in the snow. The key is to go with Tribloc HF Black in these conditions. While HF Black is not as hydrophobic as HF Yellow, it is far better at keeping the bases clean and more durable while still being reasonably hydrophobic. For this reason, we use HF Black in dirty aggressive conditions where the snow temperature is above 15f-20f. Tribloc Black (DLC) waxes are also commonly mixed with the Tribloc Yellow or Red wax of the day when the snow isn't too dirty or aggressive. Obviously these waxes are covered by the JetStream (or perhaps HelX) wax of the day.

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Early Season DH/SG Ski Prep from Copper, CO

The preparation of downhill and super-g skis can be long and tedious but can ultimately mean the difference between making the podium or falling outside the top ten. Although every technician has mysterious tricks of their own to make speed skis extra greasy, there are several generally accepted preparation concepts.

When a ski is fresh out of the wrapper it often requires "shaping", which can be achieved by beveling the edges of the top sheet layer with a file or fine grit sandpaper to ensure smooth tracking through the snow when the ski is tipped at an extreme angle. Some folks may dismiss this step as unnecessary but if every inch of your skis is fast and smooth it can only help.

The next order of business is usually removing the excess sidewall material (both the plastic and secondary metal edge) with an adjustable sidewall planer. Another crucial aspect is smoothing the entire face of the sidewall with either sandpaper or a scotch-brite pad. Again this will help the ski cut through the snow with the least amount of friction (i.e. more speed!).

From here the edge setting process can begin. Nowadays most high end speed skiers are running a 3 degree side angle and a 1 degree base bevel. This has proved to be the most optimal amount of aggressive edge while still allowing for fluid gliding.

Once several cycles of hot scraping and deep brushing have occurred it is time to begin hydrating the speed bases. This can be achieved through normal wax/scrape/brush cycles from 10-20 times or through hot boxing cycles progressing from soft to hard waxes.

The take-home message here is that where DH and SG skis are concerned, everything matters. Those little burrs that can be ignored on SL skis can act like engine brakes at DH speeds of 80 mph. Smooth is fast and fast should be the ultimate goal!

Ben Morse at USST Speed Center, Copper MT, CO

Overview of new Toko Hot Wax Line Including Tribloc (LF and HF)
In case you missed the eBlast, here's the link

New Video: Waxing Backcountry Skins

Erich Wilbrecht of the Toko Tech Team demonstrates how to wax backcountry skins. Click on the photo to view.

Toko Info Center Updated
The Toko Info Center has been updated. Here you can download wax charts, glide wax hardness charts, the new Alpine, Snowboard, and Nordic Tech Manuals, and many other things.