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We do not start the first round of fertilizer/pre-emergent until soil temperatures reach 45-50 degrees, not to be confused with air temperatures. Until the soil reaches this temperature range, the grass won't start growing and applying fertilizer will be wasteful and not environmentally responsible. Fertilizer that sits on the soil while the grass is not growing can and will volatilize into the air, be leached through the soil or washed off the soil surface.

The terrible winter we had wasn't just rough on you; it was rough on your lawn too. As the snow melts, you may notice circles or patches of grey, tan, white, even pink, dead-looking grass. It could be a variety of issues, but it is most likely snow mold. 

Severe Snow Mold Damage

Snow mold is a fungus that thrives when grass is snow covered for long periods of time, as it did this winter. There are two types of snow mold, grey snow mold and pink snow mold (more severe). Both will appear as circular dead patches, usually 3-12 inches in diameter. Close up you may see fuzzy webbing or strings (mycelium) on top of grass blades or at the outer edges of the patches.

Grey snow mold is the less severe of the two. The damage is primarily to leaf blades only. Further damage usually stops when the lawn begins to green up. The mycelium will dry out and the grass will usually recover as normal growth resumes. Lightly fluffing up the dead grass with a rake can help. 

Grey Snow Mold

Pink snow mold remains active longer than grey snow mold- possibly until temperatures get into the low 60's. You may see pink mycelium at the outer edges of dead spots, especially early in the morning when there is dew on the ground. Pink snow mold damages the blade as well as the crown of the grass. The roots and blades both emanate from the crown, so damage to the crown means the grass may be unable to recover. 

Closeup of Pink Snow Mold

 Pink snow mold will eventually stop on it's own when temperatures are high enough. In the mean time you can lightly fluff up the dead grass with a rake. Severe Pink snow mold damage can be treated with a fungicide program as well (most likely it will require at least two applications). Damaged areas can then be spot seeded if needed.

After the snow melts, it is common to find vole damage in your lawn. Usually you will see small trails zigzagging through the grass, often near flower beds and the edges of the lawn. The voles leave your lawn once snow cover is gone and will not be an issue over the summer. The best way to repair your lawn is to rake up the dead grass to allow the grass plants to regrow and fill back in, or if the damage is severe enough you can put down grass seed after it has been raked. 

Vole Mice Damage

Common Questions About Deep Root Tree and Shrub Fertilization.

Why do trees and shrubs need to be fertilized?

Just like your lawn, trees and shrubs also need care. Healthy trees and shrubs are less susceptible to plant stresses such as drought, disease, and insect damage. By the time most stress and damage on trees and shrubs becomes visible to you it has been there for a few year. Keeping trees and shrubs properly feed helps prevent this from happening.

How often does this need to be done?

We recommend to our customers that they have their trees and shrubs deep root fertilized Once per season. This process is normally done in the early fall with a heavy slow release fertilizer with micro nutrients. The trees & shrubs store this product over winter for energy the following growing season. system. Spring is also a good time for those customers that have not done a fall root feeding on their trees & shrubs. Our spring Root feeding uses a more available fertilizer source so that the trees & shrubs can take it up right away and start using it. We then recommend that you follow up in the fall with a fall root feeding so that you are on a once a year slow release program.

What is the process?

Using a probe, fertilizer and micro nutrients are injected using pressure about 10 to 12 inches down into the soil. This allows for the fertilizer to reach the roots of the trees and shrubs efficiently. This also aerates the soil around the root zone.

How soon should I notice a change in my trees and shrubs?

The fertilizer will start to help your trees and shrubs immediately but a change in appearance may not be noticeable for weeks or months after the fertilizer is applied. Applications done in the fall will be stored in the root system and be used the following spring. You will notice that your trees and shrubs will be brighter, fuller, and have a better overall appearance. You also must remember if you noticed the damage or stress it was there a few years before in the beginning stages. In this case a one year or one time treatment is not going to show as much of an effect right away.

As mentioned in previous newsletters, spring is the time to be treating for Leaf Spot on Crab Apples. This is a common fungal disease that covers the leaves with brown spots and causes leaves to prematurely drop in late summer. To prevent this the trees must be sprayed in early spring while the leaves are still budding out. If the trees are sprayed after they have leafed out there is little that can be done. Certain newer varieties of flowering crab apples are less susceptible to this disease and you might not have issues, but many older varieties are much more prone to leaf spot scab breakouts. If your crab apples have looked bad in the past feel free to give us a call and we can talk to you further.