It's not as hard as physics!

A vector is any agent that carries and transmits an infectious pathogen into another living organism.  Insects such as mosquitoes, flies and ticks are very common vectors and can transmit a variety of viral and bacterial organisms.  Their ability to move around freely also make them quite the little annoyances.  This is why fly control on your farm is very important. 

Fly Control

 Stable and house flies can travel great distances, so it is impossible to completely rid your farm of flies.  However, there are measures we can take to reduce the burden during the warmer months.

1.  SPRAYS   

One of the most common forms of fly control is the bottle of fly spray.  There are many of these on the market, typically comprised of various active ingredients such as pyrethrins and piperonyl butoxide.  Some contain more natural ingredients such as citronella.  Some ingredients are more effective than others, but regardless - these tend to be effective at repelling flies for short periods of time and re-application is necessary.  Another short coming is that they are only effective against adult flies, with no effect on the developmental stages.

2.  FLY PREDATORS

A more natural (and sometime more effective) method of fly control is to use fly predators.  Fly predators are themselves tiny flies, but they do not bite or sting.  They feed on the pupa of the other species of flies, thereby decreasing their numbers.  Since nuisance species reproduce at an extremely accelerated rate, especially during the summer, fly predators need to be re-applied every few weeks to be most effective.  For more information on these little winged warriors, check out Spalding Labs.  

3.  FEED-THROUGH

Less commonly used, feed through fly preventatives can add another dimension to a farm's fly control.  The most common product is Solitude IGR, which has an active ingredient called cyromazine.  (IGR stands for Insect Growth Regulator)  This medication inhibits the development of chitin (pronounced kite-in) in fly larvae, which prevents them from becoming adults.  Due to this, the larva dies.  Chitin is associated with the exoskeleton of insects.  Since mammals (horses and humans) don't produce chitin, this product is safe as a feed through medication.  (Don't bother eating it yourself, however!)  Since it goes through the equine digestive tract, it ends up in the manure pile, which is one of the most popular breeding grounds for insects.  Funny how that works, isn't it?  Here's more information directly from the producer Zoetis.    

4.  MANAGEMENT STRATEGIES

There are a few things that can be done from the management standpoint to help reduce flies around your horse as well. 

Lights - Flies are attracted to light, so by reducing the light pollution around your barn, you can effectively reduce the number of flies swirling around your head as well.  This has been shown to effectively reduce the chances of your horse being affected by Potomac Horse Fever.  

Fly Sheets - An obvious addition.  If the flies can't reach your horse, they can't bite him (not as easily, anyway)!  Now you just need to find one for yourself!

Manure pile location - Where do you put your manure?  The manure pile is one of the most popular breeding grounds on your farm.  It's like the singles bar for insects.  If it is close to your barn, then the population density of the insects will be much higher while you're mucking stalls.  This goes for other areas that flies might breed as well including old tires or any other standing water.  So keep the immediate vicinity around your barn clear and you'll be rewarded with fewer bugs! 

In our area, it seems like you can't walk to your

barn without getting  a tick on you.  These little guys carry all sorts of nasty diseases such as Anaplasma, Lyme (not Lymes!), and even some diseases that are just being discovered. (Although I have to say the Bourbon virus doesn't sound that bad!)  To understand how to defeat ticks, let's take a brief look at their life cycle. 

TICK LIFE CYCLE

Ticks begin as eggs that are produced by engorged females.  Once the larva hatch in early to mid fall, they feed on small mammals, amphibians or birds.  They will molt into nymphs, then overwinter before appearing again in the spring.  At this time, they will feed again on mice, deer, fox or any other animal it can get onto.  As they grow into adults, they will need to feed again in order to produce eggs, and the cycle can start all over again.  The entire life cycle can take 2-3 years, and if ticks are not able to find a blood meal, they do not survive.  Here's more on the tick life cycle from the CDC.   

Now that we know the enemy a little better, let's talk about how to stop him. 

1. GROOMING

Daily grooming can be greatly beneficial to preventing tick infestation of your horse.  By taking the time to brush them and inspect their skin, you may be able to find ticks and remove them before they've had a chance to feed or transmit any diseases. 

2. TOPICALS

There is a myriad of options out there for topical treatments.  Some work fairly well, some "kind of" work, and some aren't worth anything.  Let's discuss a few, shall we?

Equi-Spot/Freedom 45 - These are both spot - on applications with a 45% permethrin as the active ingredient.  These often need to be applied in multiple areas over the horse (all along the topline, or withers, rump & legs).  The effect usually lasts about 2 weeks.  They generally have variable effectiveness, and can sometimes cause local irritation.  (Note: Word has it that a new product is being tested for use on horses.  We'll see what the horizon brings.)

Frontline Spray -  A cross-over from the canine world, Frontline spray has been used off label in horses to prevent ticks. The active ingredient is fipronil and it works to kill ticks.  Again, the efficacy is variable and works in some places but not others.  A quick spray before a trail ride may help, but it can also be poured down the central topline for longer duration. 

Permethrin Cattle tags - While not technically a topical, these can still have some benefit.  Readily available at your local supply shop, these tags can be hung on the halter, tied around the neck with baling twine, or woven into the mane.  This can prevent ticks from climbing up to the head and neck region while grazing.  If the tag gets caught on anything, it will generally break before causing any harm.                                                              

3.  CHICKENS

Yes, chickens.  Having some hungry hens around the farm can decrease the number of ticks - because they eat them!  Not only that, but the nutrition from the ticks will end up with some nutritious eggs for you!  (Unless you're a vegan, and then you can sell them for profit to buy more chickens - or horse feed).   

Another method to control tick populations is to control the rodents and pests on your farm.  But that's a separate topic entirely.  Sooo....

Ticks generally begin their life cycle by feeding on small rodents (ie mice) and overwintering with them.   By reducing the small mammal population at your farm, you can decrease the number of ticks as well!  How do we do that? 

1. GRAIN STORAGE

This can easily be overlooked in a busy barn.  Is your food storage area neat and tidy, or is it common to find grain spilled on the floor?  Are feeds kept in sealed containers or left in bags that can be chewed through by sharp little teeth?  Keeping feed sealed and your working environment clean can go a long way in decreasing rodent activity. 

2. BARN CATS

Yawn! We'll get the mouse later.

Everyone needs a feline friend running around the barn!  Having a good mouser (or 2) on hand can not only help with the problem, but they can also give endless hours of entertainment on rainy days.  Just remember, if there aren't any mice around, the ticks may be more likely to latch onto the cats instead.  Make sure to treat them for fleas and ticks, as well as maintain appropriate vaccinations. 

3.  MOUSE TRAPS/BAIT

Keeping mouse traps up to date and baited may not always be tops on your priority list, and it may not always yield results, but when they do it's one less pest you have to worry about. 

4. PASTURE MANAGEMENT

Ticks prefer tall grass, so they can climb to the top and latch onto whatever walks by.  Maintaining your pastures at a lower cut can not only keep ticks off of your horses, but also makes it easier for you to catch said horse as he runs away from you. 

Along the same lines, large piles of brush make great habitats for moles and mice, especially during the winter months.  If you have such piles near your barn, you may want to get rid of them.  (Summers coming and it will be campfire season soon!)

5.  EXTERMINATOR

Who ya gonna call?

If all else fails, you always have the option of calling an exterminator.  They can help guide you on what to look for and some other preventative measures you may be able to take on your farm. 

Controlling flies is an important step in decreasing disease transmission.  It can also make for a much more enjoyable horse property.  While eradication of flies is nearly impossible, decreasing their numbers is a completely feasible goal.  Implement a couple of these tips this year and see what works for you.