Time Travel Along the Historic Highway

State Trail

Through our work in the Gorge, we realize that while many folks are excited about the prospect of the new trail, it is not clear where the new trail goes. So we thought one way to explain it is to paint a picture using words. Here it goes...

Imagine it is 2018 and you are planning your bike trip between Cascade Locks and Hood River on the Historic Columbia River Highway. After loading up on carbs in Cascade Locks you hit the road. You ride from the Cascade Locks Marine Park east along Forest Lane. You impress your friends by sharing with them that this seemingly quaint neighborhood street is actually the Old Highway. You pass the Easy Climb Mountain Bike Park en route to Herman Creek Road, aka Wyeth Bench Road, just east of the Herman Creek Campground.

A view up Shellrock Mountain from the trail.

Now you are back on the State Trail headed east. You are happy as you realize cyclists are no longer forced to the shoulder of I-84, especially as you approach the formidable Shellrock Mountain. From the trail you can look down on the speeding traffic but instead your eyes are drawn to the panoramic and unobstructed views of the Columbia River Gorge. Looking to your right you can still see remnants of old rock walls that were built by Simon Benson's honor men - a fancy name for an inmate work crew. Simon Benson, an influential Portlander and owner of the Benson Hotel, wanted to demonstrate to the world that a road could be built around Shellrock Mountain and that the Columbia River Highway was not a crazy idea.

After crossing Shellrock, some of the original Highway pavement is visible and you get a glimpse of the 1870s Wagon Road and its hand-laid stone walls that sit well above the trail. After passing over Summit Creek, the trail starts to climb up away from I-84. You lean forward and start cranking up the hill. Now, on a ramp known as the Summit Creek Viaduct, you are impressed by the look of the structure. The arched concrete railings and stone detailing feels like it belongs there. At the top of the viaduct you take a break and look back over your shoulder towards Wind Mountain in Washington.

 Once you catch your breath you start again and immediately feel as if you have been transported back in time. Traveling on an amazing old highway segment, you can feel Sam Lancaster's inspiration in the way the sun streams through the trees and dapples the pavement that is fringed with moss. You find a spot to park your bike and hike out to a little overlook where you can sit and take in the beauty of the Gorge.

Back on the saddle, you emerge from the woods and are immediately treated to panoramic views towards Dog Mountain. Now the trail is cut into a cliff with rock walls lining the trail as it descends down towards Lindsey Creek. At the base of the hill, you notice a side trail with a sign directing you to Lindsey Creek Falls. You lock up your bike and scramble up the trail where you are treated to yet another sweet view of a Gorge waterfall. 

The view east towards Wind Mountain from the Lindsey Creek Bench Cut.

Back on your bike you are now on a flat trail next to I-84. While not as scenic, you appreciate being separated from the traffic by the concrete barrier. After ¼ mile or so, the trail moves away from I-84 and brings you into a forested area. The trail crosses Warren Creek on a new bridge that has architectural details inspired by the bridges along the Historic Highway.

Hole-In-The-Wall Falls will become a new favorite destination in the Gorge in the future.

It is getting late so you jump on you bike and ride along the trail to Starvation Creek Trailhead. However, along the way you stop for a quick photo of Cabin Creek Falls. You shake your head in wonder - how have you never known about this waterfall and you decide then and there that this might be your favorite waterfall in the Gorge. Yet at Starvation Creek, you have an argument with yourself, could Starvation Creek Falls now be your most favorite waterfall?

You ride on through to Viento State Park where you pitch your tent for the night. Having traveled 12 miles from Cascade Locks, you realize you only have another 5 miles to go before reaching Hood River in the morning.   You lament that your journey tomorrow as it will be along I-84 and not on the separated State Trail. As you fall asleep you dream about Mitchell Point Tunnel...is this a dream or a reality?