Standing in the long, late night immigration line in Grenada's Point Salinas Airport, I almost immediately notice the glass cases full of Grenadian products. Although supported by imported goods, this country shows clear pride in its own agriculture. Billboards around the island declare the slogan, well known to American foodies, "Buy Local!" The La Sagesse Nature Center, our home for the next week, echoes this sentiment by serving a delicious, locally procured breakfast of papaya, banana, grapefruit, and scrambled eggs. Midway through the meal, our host brings a magnificent Mahi-Mahi fish into the open air dining room, announcing the catch of the day.

We set out that first morning to drive winding roads to the eastern coastal town of Grenville. We consider visiting St. George, Grenada's capital city and primary port where cruise ships offload droves of tourists into the famous spice market, but on the advice of our hosts, we instead choose the "truly Grenadian" experience of the Grenville Market. Vendors line the streets, and I am confused to see more t-shirts, sunglasses, and knock-off purses than farmers. But here are two young men, with produce in plastic bags. I can't be sure, but the packaging leads me to believe that this produce is imported rather than locally produced. The first man suggests a Sunday lunch we could cook the following day, complimented by a salad, and it just so happens that he is selling lettuce. Following his lead, the next man, selling large, pithy-looking carrots exclaims "It will be carrot Sunday!"

We find the real farmers in the heart of town, nestled into a shaded cement structure with a tight grouping of tables. Older women sit behind each of the tables, shelling pigeon peas for sale or dinner. Combined with rice, these chalky and lightly sweet legumes make a complete meal that is a staple of the Grenadian diet. Each table boasts an array of tropical produce, primarily starch-rich staples. We see breadfruit, potatoes, yucca, and plantain in abundance. We also see bananas, soursop, and passion fruit. On every table can be found piles of spices: nutmeg, cinnamon bark, star anise, turmeric, peppercorns, and bay leaves. By all appearances, Grenville hosts a thriving, local market where people from all over the island come to do their weekly shopping. However, as we'd already seen in the Grenville Market, the future of local food may not be certain in the face of the changing Grenadian economy, landscape, and lifestyle.

More next week...