Grand Tetons
click on picture for information for our next trip to the National Parks! 
 Space is limited due to bus size! 9 seats are left

Billy Stewart - Summertime
Billy Stewart - Summertime

*How to print articles at bottom of newsletter.                                                                          
Fall is for Planting

Just because the season has changed, it does not mean "pack it up and go inside." Fall is a wonderful time to get back into the garden and finish your planting. During the heat of this summer, especially this year, the temperatures made planting almost impossible-and, besides, summer is the time to enjoy your spring planting and the family. Now the kids are back to school, vacation time is over for most of us and it's time to do what you enjoy again; for many of us that is working in the garden. Right now, the soil is still warm and when you plant new shrubs and trees they will get established faster than when planted in the early spring when the ground is wet and cold.

Fall planting does have many advantages--including the price of the plant material, as many of the nurseries and garden centers are having sales on their plants. Here is what I want you to look for when planting in the fall of the year. First, look over the plant material and check the quality of the plants on sale. If the plants look good, the root ball is nice and firm; the root ball has a good covering of burlap on it or is in a container that is not damaged, you're on the right track to continue looking around. Look at the foliage of the plant--is it green and healthy looking? Look at the condition of the branches--do they look good or are there many broken or dead branches on the plant?

Many times fall sales are caused by bad weather during the prime season, leaving plant material that did not sell when it was at its best, due to the weather. For example, most flowering plants sell when they are in bloom; if the weather was bad when they were in bloom, many people don't shop for plants at that time. The plant finishes flowering and people lose interest until next year when they see them flowering again and the weather is good for planting. The plant is still perfectly good but because you do not see the flowers, you lose interest in the plant and it sits in the nursery. The smart nursery keeps the plants looking good and cares for them properly---and in the fall, the smart gardener takes advantage of the bad weather during the spring and purchases that plant on sale. Look at the nursery itself and how it has been kept up during the summer months; if the place is clean and well-kept it is a signal that the plant material was well kept also. Now is the time for you to act and save money on plant material you would like in your yard, and when spring arrives next year your flowering plants are already planted and ready to flower no matter what the weather is.

If you're looking at trees for your home for shade or color--even fruit trees--fall is a great time also. Follow the same rules I just gave you but add one more thing to look at, and that is the trunk of the tree. Make sure there are no major scrapes on the trunk or missing bark. Small nicks and scrapes are not a problem and in just a year or two they will disappear. Grab the trunk of the tree and move it around to make sure it is firmly attached to the root ball--if it moves like a straw in a glass of water, leave it there, as the plant could have root damage that cannot be repaired.

Look at the foliage on the tree, how does it look? Make sure the branches look good with little to no breakage. Now, with your thumbnail, scrape a small scratch near the tip of some of those branches to make sure that there is still green under the bark; if you see green the branch is healthy, if brown there is a problem, So walk away. Large trees should have a wire basket around them unless they are potted. When you plant that tree ,leave the wire basket on the root ball; it will rust away in just a few years and the spacing of the wire will not affect the roots that will develop in the future. AGAIN--keep the wire basket on the root ball! The one thing that must be removed is any rope that is wrapped around the trunk of the tree, especially if it is plastic. Plastic rope will not rot in the ground and can create a girdling effect on the trunk and prevent growth from developing properly. What will happen is that as the trunk begins to grow the rope stays in position, while the wood fibers grow around it but are restricted. The top will grow and get bigger until a good wind or snow storm comes and then the girdled area that is the weak point on the plant will break--and you lose your tree. One more thing--any tree over six feet tall MUST be staked to the ground in the fall to hold the plant firmly in the ground for a year so the roots can form properly!

If you're planting evergreens in the fall, especially broadleaf evergreens like holly, boxwood, rhododendrons, azaleas, etc. , I would treat the foliage with an anti-desiccant spray such as Wilt-Pruf or Wilt-Stop around Thanksgiving to protect the foliage from wind damage and dehydration. Spray the underside of the foliage first and do a good job and get every underside of every leaf covered, as that is where the moisture escapes from the plant. Then do the top of the leaf; it's a small investment with a real positive effect on the plant, especially if we have a winter with little snow cover, lots of sunshine, wind, and little rainfall. An investment of less than $2.00 per plant can save a $50.00 plant from a tough winter. I would recommend that all broadleaf evergreens be treated--even those planted in the spring--for the first year in your garden. Be safe, not sorry in the spring.

I don't recommend planting roses in the fall of the year. I do recommend that you mulch all roses after Thanksgiving with bark mulch or straw--not any earlier, or mice will move into the mound of protection and eat your plant during the winter. If you live in New England, mulch and use Wilt-Pruf or Wilt-Stop especially if rose plants are less than a year old. Not every winter will be like last year with mild temperatures. If you have potted roses, put them in your garage or tool shed for the winter out of the weather when they lose all their foliage--or around Thanksgiving. No heated buildings, and water well before putting the plant away for the winter.

All deciduous plants--plants that lose their foliage during the winter months--can be planted in the fall with great success and need no special protection during the winter except for a good layer of bark mulch or compost around the base of the plant. This mulch helps to keep the heat in the ground longer, giving the plant extra time to develop a god root system and prevents the ground from freezing and thawing during the winter hurting the new roots.

If you're planting hydrangeas this fall, I would recommend that you remove all the flowers from the plant by Thanksgiving to prevent heavy wet snow from damaging the plant with the weight of the snow on the flowers and breaking the branches of the plant.

This fall, get back into your garden and get a jump on next spring's planting. Fall is for planting and planning the garden to enjoy for next year.Enjoy!
Celine Dion Summertime Live
Celine Dion Summertime Live

Select the right grass seed for your law this fall

Have you ever walked into a garden center looking for a package of grass seed and found yourself looking at a wall filled with many different type of blended grass seed packages and wondered, "Which is right for me?" It's almost as confusing as going to the grocery store and trying to pick a box of cereal for breakfast! (I think I will have toast.)

Here is what I want you to do before you go to the garden center this fall. Take a piece of paper and answer these questions before you leave. How big is the area, length by width; if not sure pace it off and write down how many paces; the store attendant can help you determine the size of the area to be seeded.

Is the area sunny or shady?
If a combination of the two, when is it sunny and when is it shady, how long for each and at what time of the day is it sunny or shady?
Now take a shovel or garden trowel and dig a hole in the area to be seeded and see how deep the top soil is, 3 inches...6 inches deep? it will matter.
Also what is under the top soil; sand, clay, yellow hard pan? It will make a difference in the seed you will need to use. Is the area flat, does it slope or is it on the side of a hill? When it rains does the water sit on the surface? If so, how long?
Do you have trees growing on this area to be seeded? Will you be adding seed under the trees, and are the trees evergreen or leaf type?
Is there moss growing on this area now; have you ever applied lime or lime products to this area?
Have you ever had a soil test done? Are you adding new top soil over the existing soil--and how much new soil?
If there is grass growing there now, how much of the area is grass compared to weeds...or are you starting from scratch?
Have you used a weed killer product on this area lately, like Turf Builder Plus 2 or a Crabgrass preventer plus fertilizer. How long ago?
What will happen to the lawn when it is all growing and green: kids playing on it occasionally, or every day, football, baseball, or are you just going to look at it?
Do you have an irrigation system or do you drag out the hose when it needs to be watered? Or do you not water the lawn at all during the summer months?
Does your town have a water ban every summer?
Do you fertilize it during the year? How often will it be fed, with organic or regular lawn food and will you use a weed killer if needed?
Do you have animals and are they allowed to play on the grass, like a fenced in back yard?
Is the lawn area wide open to the wind and is it windy there?
Are you on the street (possible road salt), near a pond or wetlands?
How often do you cut your lawn and how short or tall do you like it?
One last you care what the neighbors think about your lawn, do you just want it green or do you want the perfect lawn and the best on the street?
(Maybe I will buy Cheerios for breakfast!)

If you still want to plant grass seed, take this information to the garden center and they will help you select the right grass seed combination for your new lawn. In the Northeast you will have five families of grass seed to choose from and I want you to know how they work and where they will work best for you. There are many different types of varieties of each family member and I will leave that to the garden center expert to determine for you.

#1 Kentucky Bluegrass is dark green, with a medium textured blade. Bluegrass can spread by making tillers and underground rhizomes, and they have the ability to make a tight-knit attractive turf. Your seed will make a new plant and as that plant matures, the plant can send out these underground rhizomes and tillers to make new plants, as a strawberry plant sends out new runners. These runners will help to thicken your lawn when it is fed regularly. Bluegrass does best in a heavy soil that is well drained and has good fertility, so it must be fed several times a year, every 6 to 8 weeks to stay thick. Water requirement is moderate to high during the summer months. If watering is a problem , the grass will lose some of its color but it will recover quickly when moisture returns.

Mowing height is 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches--but taller during the heat of summer is recommended. The plant is more upright growing and the only type of grass plant that is self-spreading with runners. Bluegrass will do best in full sun to a bit of shade late in the day or first thing in the morning. It is not recommended for shady areas as the main seed type. The size of the seed is small and the cost is more expensive than most because you get more seed per pound than most others varieties. Bluegrass will take as long as 3 weeks to germinate so be patient and keep watering to insure good germination. Once it germinates it will grow as fast as the other varieties of seed. If you want a SOD LAWN look, you will have to use a high bluegrass blend of seed. Bluegrass lawns will give you the best looking lawn but they will require the most maintenance and care-- so you might want to consider a blend with other types of grass seed.

#2 Fine Fescue Grass is medium green, and like its name has thin and narrow blades of grass. Fine fescue will also spread with tillers and short creeping rhizome type underground stems. Fine fescue is used extensively in seed blends designed for sun and shade situations. This grass seed will germinate quickly, establish itself quickly and make a wonderful nursery grass to provide protection against erosion for a slower growing grass like bluegrass problems early on. Because this grass seed germinates quickly you will see things happening fast and it will encourage you to keep watering and caring for the new seedlings.

The fine fescue family also includes 'Chewing' fescue and 'Creeping Red' fescue, making this family of grasses possible to grow almost anywhere in your lawn no matter where you are planting it. Sun or shade--this is the most versatile family of turf grasses used in blended seed for turf use today. Also, insect problems are very few with these grass plants. Their biggest problem is that you must plant the seed more heavily than most because many of the varieties grow in clumps and do not spread readily in the lawn.

You would not plant just fine fescue grass alone as a lawn but when blended with other varieties of Creeping and Tall fescue it will make a wonderful lawn. Great in low fertility or partial shade areas, it will also tolerate road salt better than most. Periods of hot and dry weather will cause color change and it is not as drought tolerant as bluegrass unless you do not cut it and allow it to grow on its own and become more natural. Mow at a height of 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches tall or allow to mature and grow wild and natural at 6 to 8 inches--low maintenance like an eco-Lawn. As a natural lawn, fertilize spring and fall. You can also mow the grass only once a month as it does not grow as fast as bluegrass, saving you time.

#3 Tall Fescue grass is medium to dark green, and new hybrids have a wonderful medium texture like bluegrass does. Tall fescue will grow in clumps and will not make a thick lawn all by itself and is better used in a blend of seeds. It is extremely tough and will tolerate a lot of use like athletic fields and lawns with heavy traffic, so bring on the kids. This is a wonderful grass seed to blend with bluegrass seed when planting a new lawn or thickening an existing thin growing lawn.

Tall fescue has a very large growing root system and a root system that grows deep in the soil, making it perfect for soils on the sandy side. Roots can grow as deep as 2 feet or more in the ground and will perform very well in periods of heavy moisture or extended drought. Once established it will even stay green longer during summer drought and perform better than most other varieties of grass.

Mow this grass higher in your lawn at 2 to 3 inches tall cutting height--and taller during the heat of summer. Fertilize spring and fall but any additional fertilizer will create a very thick weed- free lawn. Taller growing lawns always tend to keep out more weeds than those cut short, and this grass does love to stay taller growing. Taller growing lawns also need less watering and less mowing during the season. Tall fescue is often used in areas where it is difficult to grow grass and it does make a wonderful plant to prevent erosion on slopes and steep hillsides. The seed will germinate very quickly, sometimes as fast as only a week, making it perfect when blended with slow germinating bluegrass seed. Tall fescue will also tolerate wet spots in your yard better than most.

Look for the new hybrids always as they will have a better texture in your lawn. Keep away from a variety called "Kentucky 31 Tall Fescue" because the blades of grass are very wide and coarse looking. However, it is very important to note that Tall fescue has fewer problems with insects than most other types of grass seed and disease problems are minimal.

#4 Perennial Rye Grass is dark green with medium to coarse leaf blade. Use hybrid varieties and stay away from "Common Perennial Ryegrass," as this old variety has a very coarse blade; it lies down easily when mowing, making your lawn look unruly. Perennial rye grass was once the best nursery grass to hold the soil together when seeding a new lawn but has now been replaced with tall fescue hybrids. This is a good inexpensive grass to blend with other seed and to use for sloping areas where the grass does not have to be perfect. It will germinate quickly and in warm soil just 3 to 4 days. The established plant will spread with tillers but is must be blended with other types of grass seed to create a good tight-knit turf; never use alone. Perennial rye grass will not tolerate hot or cool humid growing conditions for long periods, especially wet cool springs. Clay soil or soil that stays wet could become a problem because of disease.

Perennial rye grass should be fertilized spring and fall but it will do much better if you add a third feeding in late summer. Cut the grass at 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches tall and taller during the summer months. The stems are weak and the grass does tend to fall over, so it will look better when mixed with other grass varieties. If you plant just perennial rye you will have a problem mowing the lawn, especially when it is wet, because it grows on soft stems and not upright like many other types of grasses. It is a great grass to blend with bluegrass seed when you have a heavily used area in your yard. Insect and disease problems are minimal and it will give you good year-round performance.

#5 Annual Rye Grass at one time was used widely to help retain the soil when using slow-germinating grasses like bluegrass but with the new perennial rye grasses and new tall fescue of today, it is no longer used in a quality seed blend. Remember that this is an "annual grass seed" and when the weather gets cold and the ground freezes it will die! If your seed blend has a lot of annual grass seed in the blend, the results will be a lawn in the spring with many open areas in your newly planted lawn. Pay a bit more for a seed blend that is all perennial; all your hard work will survive the winter and your new lawn will stay thick over the winter.

#6 Zoysia Grass is a warm weather grass and it will live in the Northeast and other parts of the country with cold weather and thrive very well. This is a wonderful fast growing grass that will quickly take over the area where it is planted but there is one major problem in a cold climate with this grass plant. The big problem is that the period that it is green is very short with cold weather! When you receive a good killing frost in the fall it will quickly turn brown; it will not die but your lawn will turn brown from middle to late September until the spring arrives. Now, in the spring, it will be brown while all other lawns will quickly green up in April. In May, possibly even as late as early June it will begin to green up as the soil and air temperature warm up.

In the Northeast and cold climate areas, it is beautiful for basically 4 months--June to September--and brown the other 8 months. There is one other problem with this grass plant and that problem is that the plant is unstoppable; it will take over your yard very quickly, choking out everything in its path. It moves quickly and will grow into flower beds creating a maintenance nightmare in planting areas, even those that have a thick layer of bark mulch. If you live from Washington D.C. south it will be green for 6 to 7 months but north of that stay away from this type of lawn!!!

One last thing to look for on the grass seed label:

1) Percentage of seed type by weight in the bag: bluegrass seed is small and it takes more seed per pound than perennial rye grass; 1 perennial rye grass seed weighs as much as 10 bluegrass seeds, so less bluegrass could give you more seed per bag. More bluegrass seed gives you better quality in the bag, up to 10 times more possible plants by the weight of the box of seed.

2) Other crop seed: not a noxious weed, but a weed that will grow in your lawn. Not acceptable!

3) Weed seed: percent by weight in the box. Not acceptable!

4) Inert Matter: Percent by weight in the box, filler such as seed hulls and grass stems found in cheap seed blends. Not acceptable!

5) Noxious Weeds: accept nothing but NONE FOUND printed on the label! If you do, you're planting problem weeds that are difficult to control!

6) Germination percentage of the seed variety must be 85% or higher. If you accept 50 % germination, for example, that means that only half of the bag will grow if things are perfect. Not acceptable!

7) Test date: This tells you when the seed was packaged and it MUST be this year's date or the percentage of seed expected to germinate will be less than listed--a real problem for you!

Use this as a guide and with the help of a knowledgeable person at your local garden center or nursery, you will have a wonderful looking lawn for all the work, time, and money you put into it. This is not the time to save a dollar unless you want to do this again in the near future.  Two of the best sources for grass seed are Bonide Lawn and Garden and Pearl's Premium grass Seed. Good luck! Enjoy!

Kenny Chesney - Summertime
Kenny Chesney - Summertime

Fall is almost here and it is time to bring in your house plants

The signals that the fall preparation of our gardens and the movement back indoors of many of our  house plants is here. In the next 4 to 6 weeks or more, there is a lot to do around the yard. Many plants will need special treatment before the cold weather arrives to survive until next spring. Let us hope for a long fall season, as the Farmer's Almanac has predicted a cold and snowy winter ahead for those of us living in New England.

Let's start with the flowering plants that need to be dug up, potted, and brought indoors for the winter. Plants like geraniums, browallia, 'Nonstop' begonias, coleus, New Guinea impatiens, and even wax begonias. These plants and many more will adapt to their new home much more easily if they are dug from the garden now and potted. This gives them time in the container to readjust to their new growing conditions. Once they are dug up and potted, fertilize and water them and keep them outdoors for an additional couple of weeks as they adjust. Move them into your home before you close the windows in the house for the season, and turn on the heat, as this will be an additional change in light, humidity, and heat for them; if it is done gradually, your plants will do much better with the move indoors. When your night-time temperatures begin to reach 55 degrees regularly, it's time to move plants indoors!!!

All plants that have been outdoors for the summer months should be washed with warm water, a soft cloth, and a mild dish detergent like Dawn to remove insects and soil on the foliage. Also spray with All Season Oil or Pure Spray Green oil to destroy any possible insects or eggs that are on the plant. If you bring plants that contain insect problems into your home, they will quick multiply and spread to insect-free plants in your home, creating real problems during the winter months. A good spraying now under and on top of the foliage will go a long way to prevent problems later.

All tropical foliage plants should be also washed and sprayed before coming indoors and placed in their spot in your house for the winter again before you prepare the house for colder weather. Be sure to fertilize every plant you bring into the house to help give them a boost with the changes. Be prepared for foliage and flower drop with the changes--but most plant will adjust to the new conditions and replace the foliage and flowers in just a few weeks. Plants like hibiscus, mandevilla, dipladenia, angel's trumpet, poinsettia and even bougainvillea will do well in your home if they are in a south facing window and stay warm during the winter months--60 to 70 degrees.

There are exceptions like the Christmas cactus, gardenias, and potted florist azaleas; these should stay outside as late as possible in the fall to give the plants time to make the flower buds on the plant. I keep these plants in a sheltered place outdoors on my back deck or porch during the day and bring them into the house or garage for the evening and bring them in the house permanently in late October. Once inside, keep in a sunny location that stays cool--50 to 60 degrees--so buds can mature slowly and the flowers will last on the plant longer when it comes into flower. Gardenias must have a room with humidity in it, so keep plants away from wood or coal stoves. If you live in a home heated with forced hot air heat, give your plant to a friend for the winter, as the lack of humidity will cause the plant to drop all its flower buds before they have a chance to open in middle to late winter.

Plants like ficus, dracaena, philodendron, yucca, ferns and all your hanging plants will need the same treatment before coming into the house, washing, spraying, and feeding. During the winter months indoors, cut fertilizer application in half and watch your watering, as different heating systems will change the amount of water your plants will need. Forced hot air heat and wood or coal stove heated homes will require more watering than oil heated homes, due to the lack of humidity cause by these dry heating systems.

Bulb plants like amaryllis should be dug up during mid-September and placed on your basement floor or crawlspace until the foliage turns yellow and then brown-then remove the foliage. Once you remove the faded foliage, keep the bulb cool and dormant for at least 8 to 12 weeks before you pot it up, and bring it upstairs to a sunny and warm window for flower to appear on the plant after the holidays. If your amaryllis is potted, place it in the basement and stop watering. Cut back foliage when it turns brown and keep the potted bulb cool until you're ready to bring it up for forcing into bloom.

What you should also do in the next couple of weeks is label all your non-hardy summer flowering bulbs. Name, color and height so when the frost comes and kills the foliage of your plants, you can dig them and prepare them for winter storage in your basement. Begonias, dahlias, cannas, callas, caladiums, elephant ears and your glads are just a few of our wonderful summer flowering bulbs that must spend the winter months in our basement or they will die when the ground freezes. When the foliage has turned brown, dig them up, and cut back the foliage of the bulb for storage.

I keep my bulbs in the basement, on the cold cement floor in wooden or heavy cardboard boxes and cover the bulbs with dry peat moss and newspaper for the winter. A crawlspace will also work very well as long as it stays cool but does not freeze. Best storage temperatures are between 40 and 50 degrees, and do not water the bulbs while in storage. I also dust all the bulbs and tubers with a general purpose rose and flower or vegetable garden dust to prevent insect problems while in storage. Tuberous begonias and calla lilies that are potted can be left in the pot for the winter but you must remove the dead foliage before storing them.

I keep my angel trumpet and edible fig plants in the basement or crawl space for the winter as they are potted and are not winter-hardy here in Maine where I live. Keep the fig plant outside until the figs are ripe; if the nights are to be cold, bring into your garage and back outside if the day is warm. When the foliage has all fallen or fruit has ripened, pick and enjoy before moving to the basement. Water well before placing in basement or crawlspace for the winter. When angel's trumpet foliage begins to turn yellow and fall, water well and place in basement or crawl space for winter. Do not water either plant until you're ready to have them begin to grow again in April. Enjoy!
"Most people don't see the sun, soil, bugs, seeds, plants, moon, water, clouds, and the wind they way gardeners do. "
Jamie Jabbin 


Beer Batter Deep Fried Vegetables from the Garden

If you're looking for a way to get your kids to eat vegetables, here is a fool proof way to do it. And right now all these vegetables come from your garden or can be easily picked up some from the vegetable stand or grocery store. I will also cook some medium size shrimp or inch sliced strips of chicken breast separately to go with the vegetables if you want between vegetable orders, if you want.

Ingredients for batter:
1 1/3 cup of flower
2 tablespoons of grated parmesan cheese or pasta cheese in jar
1 tablespoon of salt
A dash of Garlic powder for flavor
2 eggs
1 "12 ounces of your favorite beer or ale, no dark"
1 tablespoon of olive oil
Vegetable oil for frying

Best vegetables to cook:
inch wide cut onion rings
in wide cut strips of red, yellow, or orange bell peppers
1-inch size cauliflower heads
1-inch size broccoli florets
Fresh whole green beans
summer squash rings
inch zucchini squash rings
inch sweet potato slices
Small whole mushrooms

Directions for Beer batter:
1] Combine flower, Parmesan cheese, salt, and garlic powder. Stir in your 2 egg yoks, beer, and olive oil. Beat on low speed of electric mixer until smooth.

2] In another bowl beat the egg whites until stiff. Fold into beer batter. Pat all your vegetables with paper towels, to remove extra moisture and dip vegetables you desire together in the beer batter. 

3] Fry your vegetables in hot oil around 375 degrees for 3 to 5 minutes, and separate with a fork so they do not all stick together when cooking. If the oil is not "HOT" the batter will absorb the oil and make vegetables greasy. Cook until golden brown and you can flip vegetable pieces over in the oil with a slotted spoon if they begin to stick together. 

4] Drain on paper towels, serve and salt to taste. A Ranch dressing or your favorite dressing will make a easy dipping sauce. The batter recipe will make about 3 cups of batter, so double if you're feeding a big crowd. If you're also cooking shrimp or chicken strips cook until they are done and no pink in the chicken. Shrimp will cook faster than chicken, 2 to 3 minutes for shrimp and 3 to 5 minutes for chicken. Remove one piece and cut open until you know how fast your oil is cooking. Enjoy!
Days to look forward 

Sunday, September 11 - Grandparents Day
Saturday, September 17-National Eat an Apple / Apple Dumpling Day
Monday, September 26 - Johnny Appleseed Day
Wednesday, September 28 - National Good Neighbor Day

Keep records will make you a better gardener!!


Garden Journal

        Garden Journal - A garden is a friend you can visit any time. Gardens require planning and cultivation, yielding beauty and joy. This garden journal helps make planning and organizing easy. This book makes a great gift for gardeners, family, friends, birthdays, Christmas, new home or as a self purchase.


Cover holds a 5 x7 or 4x6 photo, Heavy-duty D-ring binder

1. 8 tabbed sections
2. 5 garden details sections with pockets for seeds, tags....
3. Weather records page
4. 6 three year journal pages
5. Insect & diseases page - 3 project pages
6. 3 annual checklist pages
7. Plant wish list page
8. 2 large pocket pages
9. Sheet of garden labels
10. 5 garden detail sheets
11. 5 graph paper pages for layouts
12. 5 photo pages holds - 4- 4x6 photos in landscape or portrait format

Journal, Planning, Inspirations. 

 To Order call 207-590-4887

Regular price $34.95  Special Price $31.95! 

special!        Supplies are now limited!


*How to print article's from our Newsletter -  Constant contact does not allow us to print articles one at a time


Do not use the "Print" icon unless you want to print the whole web page or email. Instead, follow the next steps.

Select the text you want on a web page where there is a story, paragraph, or a few lines that you want to print. Left-click on the mouse at the beginning and drag across to the end of the text you want and release. While the text is selected (highlighted), go to the top menu line and click "File" / "Print", in the print window that shows.  click on "Selection," and then click the OK or Print button. Some printers need you to select apply .

Do the same for emails. If you want to print a joke or article that you receive, do not click the Print icon. Select the text as above and use the "File" / "Print" menu and click "Selection", click OK or "Print".

Try another way to do a print job for text only. This involves selecting the text you want as above; then right click, copy and right click, paste to a word processor or even Wordpad (located in "Start" / "Programs" / "Accessories" / "Wordpad") and print from there. This method will produce a copy with no extra information. 

(855)660-4261 Sunday
Morning(6AM to 10AM)
Regular Phone Hours:
Mon-Sat  9AM to 5 PM
Sunday:12 pm to 5 PM