A family gathering for Thanksgiving day!
The Paul Parent Garden Club, next trip is to Cuba


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Harvesting Cranberries for your Thanksgiving
On November 19, 1620, when the Pilgrims landed on Cape Cod, they had all the food they were to need for the next year aboard their ship the Mayflower. In the spring, as the weather improved the Pilgrims were met on the beach by a curious and friendly group of Native American Indians from the Wampanoag tribe, who were also eager to learn about their new neighbors.

The two different groups sat down and began this new adventure by learning about each other's customs, how they could work together to help each other and share their knowledge for a better life together. This was the first and one of the few times two nations sat down and talked for the better of all. The pilgrims brought new farming methods, new food crops, herbs, animals, and medicine to help the sick. The Wampanoag brought skills for fishing, hunting, trapping and their own type of agriculture which dealt with native plants and how to survive the elements during a harsh New England winter.

At that first Thanksgiving dinner the two nations celebrated their first year together, they cooked their native foods to celebrate their mutual friendship and their bond to work together in the future. One of the foods the Wampanoag Indians probably served was the native cranberry, as it was used by them fresh, dried and preserved for winter use. At that time cranberries were only one of three native fruits available to the new settlers. The other two are the Concord grape and the blueberry. Cranberries are an evergreen shrub or trailing vine and a member of the Blueberry family known as Vaccinium. The plant can be found growing in acidic bogs of the northern hemisphere where the climate is cooler, from New Jersey north to most of southern Canada and west to Washington State, but it grows best in the sandy bogs of Massachusetts and Wisconsin.

The plant will grow 3 to 8 inches tall depending on the variety and the many vines the plant produces can run up to 6 feet long. The vines are slender and wiry and covered by small evergreen leaves. The plant is so unique it must have a growing season that extends from April to November. The soil must be made up of just the right combination of acidic peat moss, sand, gravel, and clay to create the bog or wetland environment for them to grow in and thrive.

These special areas were created more than 10,000 years ago by the glaciers; they are like pockets in the earth. The first layer of the pocket is clay to hold all the material in place and prevent leaching into the ground water. Next is gravel and rock from the receding glaciers, then peat moss grew in over the stones, and finally sand blew over the peat with wind and storms to create the perfect growing conditions. Also water plays a major part with the plant's growth and berry formation, as the berry is 95% water. Ponds, small streams, ditches, and natural water sources like springs are needed to provide the habitat for the plant to grow.

Cranberries have beautiful dark pink flowers that are very unusual because of the reflexed flower petals that leave the style and stamens exposed and facing forward for easier pollination by insects. The open flower resembles the head of the wild Crane that lives in the same area and it was often called the crane-berry when the fruit formed on the plant. The berry itself was also called the bear-berry, as wild bears were often seen feeding on them during the fall and winter months. Here are some fun facts about cranberries to discuss around the dinner table on Thanksgiving:
In 1683, cranberry juice was made by the Pilgrims for their active ingredients that seemed to help with health issues present at the time.

Cranberries were first harvested and commercially grown in 1816 in Dennis, Massachusetts by Captain Henry Hall.
In 1838, a 2-inch layer of sand was spread on the cranberry bogs to help stimulate vine growth and berry production with great success, a process that is still used today to keep plants healthy and more productive.
In the 1850's, cranberries were used to prevent scurvy at sea, and the cranberry scoop was invented to harvest berries more efficiently.
In 1854, there were only 197 acres of cranberries grown in North America, Barnstable County, Mass.
In 1860, the state of Maine begins growing cranberries and develops 600 acres of bogs.
In 1888, the Cape Cod Cranberry Growers association was formed in Massachusetts.
In 1930, women were allowed to pick cranberries with scoops.
In 1953, the cranberry crop industry reached one million barrels of cranberries; one barrel of cranberries equaled 100 pounds.
In 1960, the first water harvesting system was developed, as cranberries would float to the surface when the bogs were flooded and easily removed from the vines with paddle board harvesters. This system used less labor and produced higher yields with less damage to the fruit.
1994: cranberries made the official state berry of Massachusetts.
1998: the University of Maine adds a cranberry specialist to the organization to study antioxidants, which cranberries are high in--and they also provide some significant protection against Alzheimer's disease.
Crop in Maine grows to 21,000 barrels 21,000,000 pounds in 2004.

In 1960, Massachusetts led the country with 13,000 acres, followed by Wisconsin with 4,200 acres producing cranberries. As land value rose Massachusetts dropped to 11,200 acres in 1970 and Wisconsin grew to 5,700 acres.
In 1990, Massachusetts grew to 12,400 acres but Wisconsin jumped to 9400 acres.

In the year 2000, Massachusetts grew again to 13,900 acres but Wisconsin increased production because of less expensive land to 15,100 acres and now leads the country with the production of cranberries for the first time.
Just in case you're thinking of turning your wetlands or bogs into cranberries...the average cost to plant and maintain is $28,000.00 per acre. Value of the crop is $41.30 per barrel or 100 pounds for fresh-picked, $16.20 per barrel or 100 pounds for processed berries. 95% of all berries are processed into sauce, juice, dried berries, etc. and only 5% is sold as fresh berries. In the year 2000, total berry production was 6,250,000 barrels--and one barrel equals 100 pounds--that's a lot of berries. By the way, it takes approximately 333 berries to make one pound.

Now...here is the final total of barrels of berries produced by the 5 top producing cranberry states for the year 2000. Wisconsin 4,500,000 barrels, Massachusetts 2,100,000 barrels, New Jersey 542,500 barrels, Oregon 400,000 barrels, and Washington 142,000 barrels. That totals 7,684,500 barrels of berries. Not bad for a wild-growing plant found on Cape Cod when the Pilgrims first arrived. When in Europe if you are offered loganberry as a side to your meal, it is the equivalent to our cranberry but grows much smaller and has a slightly different taste. Finally...cranberry sauce sells 2 to 1 over whole cranberries. Eat Up!! Enjoy!



Adam Sandler Thanksgiving Song
Adam Sandler Thanksgiving Song

Before you get caught up with all the holiday activities, here are a few final things to do in the yard and garden. The weather is still favorable to work outside now and the time spent in the garden can save you time and money--and save your plants from winter damage. There is nothing more frustrating than losing plants during the winter, because we did not know how to protect them properly--especially plants we worked so hard to develop this past season. Knowledge is power in your garden and here are a few things that will help you and your plants to have a better winter.

One of the most popular plants for the garden is the rose bush and for many of us, losing plants after the first winter that a rose bush was planted in our summer garden is tragic. The result is discouraging, and instead of increasing the size of the rose garden to add new varieties and colors, we replace the dead plants with perennials or annual flowers. Growing rose bushes is a lot of work but the reward is incredible as the plants produce the most sought-after flower in the world.

Here is what I want you to do in the next couple of weeks. Don't panic, because you still have time. Purchase a bag of bark mulch or compost, a bale of straw, or go down to the beach and collect sea weed and place it in your garden, but not on the plants yet. Right now the mice are still looking for a place to make their home for the winter and organic plant insulation will attract them to your garden and they will eat your plants during the winter. I want you to wait until Thanksgiving to create a mound of material around your plants.

Step one is to NEVER prune your roses in the fall of the year! Your plant is covered and sealed with strong bark that helps prevent moisture loss caused by winter winds and sun. Every time you cut back a branch from your plant, you are creating an opening for moisture to escape from the plant--resulting in branch die back or plant kill. If you live in a climate where winters get cold and temperatures dip down to the teens or colder, spend under a dollar a plant to give them additional protection by spraying them with an anti-desiccant sealant like Wilt-Pruf or Wilt-Stop. Before you use your insulation around the plant around Thanksgiving, apply the anti-desiccant product. That is something you can do now while the temperatures are above freezing during the day. Anti-desiccants sprays need 4 hours to dry on the plant when temperatures are above freezing to be most effective.

After Thanksgiving, build your mound with the product you have chosen to use to protect the plants for the winter. The mound should be 12 to 18 inches wide and high around your plants, and in the shape of a Teepee. If you live near the seashore or the rose garden is in a very windy location, you can also use a burlap bag to cover the plant for extra protection. NEVER use a plastic bag to cover your plants, because the bag will trap the daytime heat, causing wide temperature swings that will cause early sprouting during winter warm spells. Burlap is porous and breathes, allowing the heat to escape from around the plant and keep the plant dormant. After Christmas, recycle your Christmas tree and cut the branches from it so you can lay the evergreen branches against the plants for additional protection; as the needles dry, the smell will give your early garden great fragrance--and those fallen needles also become great organic matter to improve the soil around your roses.

Potted roses should be stored in your garage, tool shed or under your deck for the winter. This protects the plant from the winter weather but keeps it dormant. Plants stored inside an unheated building will need to be watered well before they are put away for the year and adding a bit of additional water during the winter to keep the roots moist. Those left outside under a deck or porch should be watered well and laid on their side to prevent the pot from filling with water and creating a ball of ice around the roots during the winter. Plants left outside should also be treated with an anti-desiccant before put into winter storage. If the weather gets nice out during mid-March bring the containers outside so the plants can gradually adapt to the changing temperatures. You don't want your plants to begin to sprout in the garage or tool shed as the days begin to warm up, and then have the new sprouting buds hurt by cold weather.

Now, the pruning of the rose bushes should be done in the early spring. Always wait until the baseball season begins in your home town--not during spring training. Prune to control the size of the plant, remove any branches that dried out during the winter and turned brown, also remove any small shoots or suckers that have formed at the base of the plants. Keep the most vigorous branches, as they will produce the most new growth during the summer and more flowers for you to enjoy. I also like to apply the anti-desiccant spray on the plant again in the spring after pruning to seal up the cuts made on the plant and hold moisture in the plant until it is ready to grow. If you're only making a few cuts on the rose bush and have no anti-desiccant spray left, just light a candle and drip some wax on the cuts you just made to seal the plant until it is ready to grow and care for itself. Make your cuts at an angle so rain and watering can roll off the branches to prevent rotting of the stems.

Fertilizer is applied in April when you begin to notice that the buds are beginning to pop and green foliage is forming. You can also begin to apply your first application of a systemic insecticide to the plant so it has time to move up the roots of the plant and get established in the new shoots that develop. That way you're ahead of the insects before they get a chance to get established on the plant. I also like to apply All Season Oil and a dormant fungicide to the plant to control any overwintering insect eggs left on the plant in the fall and disease spores from last year. This is most effective once you have pruned the plant in the spring and are getting the garden ready for the new season.

I don't care what people tell you about growing roses, it requires work, but the end results are well worth the effort. If you have never planted roses before, give it a try next spring but prepare your soil properly and choose a location with sun all day long, that's the key! If you're new to growing roses, ask for a gardening book about roses for Christmas and read up on how to grow them during the winter so you're ready when spring arrives. After the holidays, go on the internet and sign up to receive the new rose catalogs in the mail, so you can select the color combination for your garden. Those catalogs will also be full of additional helpful information when you get ready to plant the garden. If you follow these easy steps you can remove from your vocabulary to following phrase, "I never promised you a rose Garden because it is too much work." Can you imagine Valentine's Day without roses? Now imagine your garden with rose bushes growing in it; imagine cutting roses from those plants and placing them on your dinner table this coming summer. You can do it and you will enjoy your time in the garden with your rose bushes. Enjoy.
Celine Dion & Josh Groban Live
Celine Dion & Josh Groban Live 
"The Prayer"

     
If you did any planting this year around your home during the spring or summer, spend a few minutes to prepare your new plants for the seasonal changes of winter. All I want you to do is walk around your property for a final inspection and make sure the plants are ready for winter. Use this quick checklist of suggestions that has helped me with my plants over the years.

I start with the lawn and always look for potential problems with moles. If you had a lot of Japanese beetles in your garden this summer you have a better chance of having moles. You will notice raised mounds or raised tunnels running near the surface of the grass. When you step on them they flatten easily, letting you know that the tunnels are actively being used by the mole. Most of these tunnels will be found at this time of the year near areas of your property where tall grasses are growing, near wooded areas, near large mulched planting beds or near walkways and driveways. The moles spend the summer months hiding in these protected areas from predators but as the season changes they move out into the lawn and start digging the tunnels in search for food for the winter.

Once the ground is cold, frozen, and covered with snow they become a digging machine and can destroy your well-kept lawn over the winter, especially if we have an early snow cover. If you find tunnels or mounds act NOW by treating the area with a product like Mole Scram, Shake-Away Mole Repellent or Bonide MoleMax. These product are not a poison; keeping the lawn safe for your pets and family, they are repellents and will halt the moles' movement into the middle of your lawn where they can make major damage to your lawn. Knowing this, you only have to treat the perimeter of your lawn around the edges with a 10 to 15 foot band, not the entire lawn, and that will save you money.

If you planted new evergreen ground covers like English ivy, pachysandra, or myrtle/vinca I would suggest that you spray them with an anti-desiccant for the first winter. This will help lock moisture inside the plant and prevent wind damage and sunburn, as these plants are young and possibly not fully established yet. When you figure out the time it took you to prepare the planting area, planting of the ground covers, and the cost of the plants it is well worth the few dollars it will cost to protect your investment--good insurance. A product like Wilt-Pruf or Wilt-Stop can be purchased at your local garden center in a ready-to-use sprayer for small areas or in concentrates for large planting beds. Start off next spring with healthy green plants and avoid filling in the holes where plants died during the winter.

If you planted a row of arborvitae to create a privacy or noise barrier this year, purchase a ball of green string and tie up your plants to prevent snow or Ice damage. Just tie one end of the string to a branch a couple feet above the ground and walk around the plant wrapping the string in a corkscrew pattern around the plant until you get three quarters up the plant. Pull the foliage together as you wrap and this will keep the young and not mature branches protected from damage. Arborvitaes are multi-stem plants and heavy, wet snow or ice can split them apart until the plant has matured. If you live in an area where Deer are found, I would add the new  Bonide Deer Repellent  to your planting to protect them. If food becomes scarce and the snow gets deep, deer LOVE arborvitae, and--again--a bit of insurance can save your plants from being eaten. They're young, tender and tasty and for a couple of dollars you can save a plants that cost over $25.00 each. Think for the long term; each year they grow they become stronger, larger and more valuable.

Newly planted broadleaf evergreens like holly, rhododendrons, azaleas, mountain laurel, and boxwood should also be treated with an anti-desiccant spray for the first year--especially if they are in a planting bed that receives a lot of sun during the winter months. When you planted the shrub, and if it was cared for properly will determine if the plant had enough time to become fully established in your garden before winter arrived. Sun and wind create the problem with new plants the first winter, and if the roots are not fully established and the plants ready you will have damage. If you planted azaleas, be sure to spray the flower buds on the tip of the branches to protect them and insure flowers next spring. Again, a bit of insurance now can go a long way next spring.

If you planted a new tree that is over six feet tall and it is in an open area of your lawn, purchase a staking kit and tie down the tree so it will not move or blow over with the wet and stormy weather ahead of us. Your main goal is to keep the plant root ball from moving and hurting the newly developing root system. If that tree is a fruit tree or flowering tree, also wrap the trunk from the ground to the first branch with a tree guard or hardware cloth wire to prevent rodent damage. The bark is tender and has not hardened off yet, so it is vulnerable to being eaten by rodents during the first couple of winters. Also be sure that there is a covering of three inches of bark mulch around the base of the tree to help keep the soil frozen during the winter. Exposed soil will freeze and thaw during the winter, damaging the root system of the new tree.

In your perennial flower beds, be sure to cut back to the ground all plants that have turned yellow or brown and rake the garden clean. This fall clean-up will remove insect eggs and disease spores left on the plants for next year. Insects and disease ALWAYS plan for the next year in the fall, so they can continue to survive from year to year in your garden. This is also a great time to apply limestone or Turf turbo lime to sweeten the soil and keep the plant productive. Acid soil will slow down the development of your plants in the garden and produce fewer flower buds.

The vegetable garden should also be cleaned of all dead plants, and lime the soil to prevent blossom end rot on your tomatoes and squash plants for next year. Blossom end rot is a rotting on the underside of the tomato fruit or the tip of the squash and is caused by lack of calcium in the soil. Use lime at the rate of 50 pounds per 500 sq. ft. of garden. If you live near the seashore, go to the beach and collect the seaweed that washes ashore at the beach and spread it over your garden for the winter. Seaweed is full of stored energy and contains everything your plant will need to grow better next spring. Seaweed is a wonderful soil conditioner and better than peat moss for your garden soil. Just spread it over the garden now and till it in next spring when you get ready to plant the garden.

One last thing is to mow the grass down to 2 inches tall when it stops growing. This will prevent winter diseases that can be a problem if your soils have clay in them or you tend to have puddles that form during wet weather in the growing season. Tall grass will mat down--and if we have a winter with heavy snow and ice on the lawn that lasts well into the spring, you could have a problem. Sandy soils are not a problem but keep the grass short for the winter to avoid problems. If moss is visible, lime the lawn now so it has time to sweeten the soil before spring arrives. Did you know that crabgrass and common lawn weeds have a more difficult time growing in your lawn if the soil is sweet than when the soil is on the acid side? Also, the grass can grow thicker and the fertilizer you apply becomes more effective, so lime the lawn in the fall. Any leaves or pine needles should be chopped up by your lawn mower and will turn into great organic matter to help improve your soil as they break down during the winter. So don't rake the leaves--chop them up and make your soil better for next year.
 
What a wonderful world - LOUIS ARMSTRONG.
What a wonderful world 
 LOUIS ARMSTRONG.
Storing spring flowering bulbs for the winter


What do we do with all of our summer-flowering bulbs during the winter months, if they are not hardy enough to stay in the ground? It's simple, we bring then into our basement for the winter, and this is how you will prepare them to keep them healthy.

Begin when Mother Nature produces a killing frost in your garden and your bulb plants turn BLACK. Now cut them down to the ground and dig them up. Shake as much of the soil off the bulbs as possible but do not wash them clean! Set bulbs in your garage or tool shed for a few days until the soil on them has dried completely. Once you have dug them up, do not leave them outside or any additional frost will kill the bulb by freezing it.

I want you to buy a general purpose Rose and Flower Garden Dust and dust all parts of the bulb before storage. This dusting of the bulb will help to keep it protected from any overwintering disease and insect problems.

Glads are easy; just look at the bulb closely and you will see that there are now two bulbs piggy backing together. The top bulb is the one to keep and the bulb on the bottom was the original bulb that you planted and which has now transferred all of its energy to the new bulb on the top--it must be discarded. Dust the good bulbs and store them in a pair of old panty hose that you will hang from the rafters in the basement. The panty hose will breathe well and keep the bulbs healthy until you plant them in the spring.

Dahlias: the bulbs will look like a clump of potatoes and should not be divided until you are ready to plant in the spring. Dust the bulbs and store in boxes on the floor or in a crawl space where the temperature stays around 50 degrees. Place one inch of peat moss or compost in the box and set bulbs on the material, being sure that bulb clusters do not touch each other. Cover the bulbs with 2 inches of organic material and then cover with newspaper, never with plastic--plastic will sweat and wet the covering, causing rotting of the bulbs.

Tuberous begonias and callas: Clean any parts of stems still attached to them and make sure that where they were attached has dried well, with no soft spots. Dust well and store in a box of peat moss or compost kept on the floor. The floor will stay cold and that will help keep bulbs dormant better. Separate bulbs 2 inches apart and cover with newspaper.

Canna lilies: these will store best if put them in containers filled with peat moss or compost, standing up as they grew in your garden. If the plant grew in a pot, just cut the stems at the soil line and place the pot on the floor in the basement. Garden grown cannas should be dusted before being potted in organic matter. Keep them as far away from any furnace or heat source as possible, and do not water until you are ready to start growing them in March indoors or directly in the garden in early May.

Elephant Ears: Dig bulb and clean of any leaf stems still attached to the bulb. Dust the bulb and store in a pot filled with peat or compost and place on the floor covered with newspaper. Make sure the bulb is dry before storing it for the winter, and be sure that the bulb faces up. Repot in soil during March for a jump start on the season.

Freesia, ranunculus and anemone: these should be cleaned of any stems and dried well in the basement before storage. These will take longer than the other bulbs to dry and harden. Ranunculus will look like a mini bunch of bananas--about 1 inch long. Freesia and anemone look like a bunch of dried up raisins and are hard. These three can be stored in a small box on the floor with a bit of peat or compost mixed around them to keep them apart--you don't want them touching. Dust them by placing them in a small paper bag, add the dust, and shake to cover the bulbs. These three bulbs can be forced into growing indoors right after the first of the year by potting them and growing them on the windowsill. Flowers will form in April and May if they are in a pot--or you can wait and them plant in the ground in May for summer color in the garden.Enjoy.

"Families are like fudge - mostly sweet with a few nuts"

unknown 


Homemade Turkey Bone Soup

What do you do with the leftover turkey? Sandwiches are good for a day or two but my favorite is making soup with all the leftovers from Thanksgiving dinner. Carrots, onions, turnip, potatoes, gravy, celery, and even the stuffing will make a wonderful soup for the cold days ahead of us. Give this a try your family will love it with a nice crusty bread.

Ingredients:
The bones and leftover meat on the turkey, broken up to fit in your large pot
Enough chicken broth to cover the bones in your pot
Leftover vegetables and the fixings from the meal
1 Teaspoon of poultry seasoning
Salt and pepper to taste
Water if needed

Directions:
1} Break up your leftover turkey and place in a large pot. Leave the meat and skin attached to the bone and cover with chicken broth; I use 3 cans of College Inn chicken broth 48 ounces. Add your poultry seasoning and a bit of salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and then lower the fire too low for hour.

2} Remove the meat and bones from the pot and place in a large bowl to cool. Once you can handle the bones and meat remove the meat from the bones and dispose of the bones. Cut up the turkey meat into 1 inch pieces and place back into the pot of chicken broth that has now the flavor of the turkey added to it. 
 
3} Add your leftover vegetables to the pot that you have cut up into 1 inch pieces. Carrots, onions, celery, whole potatoes chunks "not mashed", chunks of turnip, and a cup or two of your turkey stuffing. If you have no carrots left add 2 to 3 cups of sliced carrots or a bag of mini carrots you use for dips. I like to add a jar of pearl onions if I am short onions. Celery I cup up 5 or 6 stems in in pieces. Potatoes I add 3 or 4 potatoes, 3 to 4 inch in diameter, and cut up in 1 inch cubes. 

4} Add any leftover gravy for extra flavor, if it's all gone a jar of turkey gravy will do. And if you like tomatoes add a can of stewed or flavored tomatoes and the juice, cut the tomatoes into 1 inch pieces. 
 
5} Add all the ingredients to the pot, cover and bring to a low boil, then lower the fire too low for a half hour and serve.

6} If you have any soup left, freeze it in freezer bag for a cold day when you could use a nice warm soup for lunch or dinner. Pick up a crusty bread and even a bottle of white wine for a nice treat. Enjoy!

 


      

Garden Journal

        Garden Journal - A garden is a friend you can visit any time. Gardens require planning and cultivation, yielding beauty and joy. This garden journal helps make planning and organizing easy. This book makes a great gift for gardeners, family, friends, birthdays, Christmas, new home or as a self purchase.

 

Cover holds a 5 x7 or 4x6 photo, Heavy-duty D-ring binder

1. 8 tabbed sections
2. 5 garden details sections with pockets for seeds, tags....
3. Weather records page
4. 6 three year journal pages
5. Insect & diseases page - 3 project pages
6. 3 annual checklist pages
7. Plant wish list page
8. 2 large pocket pages
9. Sheet of garden labels
10. 5 garden detail sheets
11. 5 graph paper pages for layouts
12. 5 photo pages holds - 4- 4x6 photos in landscape or portrait format

Journal, Planning, Inspirations. 

 To Order call 207-590-4887

Regular price $34.95  Special Price $31.95!  special!        Supplies are now limited!

 

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