Fall colors are meant to be enjoyed

Tim McGraw- Where The Green Grass Grows
Tim McGraw  
Where The Green Grass Grows
The Paul Parent Garden Club, next trip is to Cuba


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Put the lawn mower away and bring out the Snowblower!!

It's November and the time to put your garden and the gardening equipment to bed for the season. Let's start with your equipment, because it's time to move it to the back of the garage or tool shed and prepare for the winter weather ahead of us. Power equipment like the rototiller, lawn mower, and your gas powered cutting tool should be cleaned, and then prepared for the winter by first filling up the gas tanks with a fuel that has been treated to prevent water buildup in the tank or fuel line. Start them up and let them run for a few minutes, so the treated fuel has a chance to move up into the engine. This little bit of maintenance will ensure a quick start up next spring.

I want you to purchase a can of WD-40 and spray all metal surfaces to prevent rusting from the dampness of the winter air. Be sure to coat all cutting surfaces extra well to keep your blades nice and sharp. This will also prevent moving parts from rusting together and keep the blades and wheels moving properly. If you have electric power tools, treat all metal surfaces the same way and coil up the power cords to keep them from being all tangled up in case you need them for the Holiday lights.

Equipment that you push like the wheelbarrow, fertilizer spreader, dollies, and even the hose reel should be washed and cleaned of debris. Spray WD-40 into all wheel sockets and treat any exposed metal to prevent rusting. Now is a great time to take a wire brush and clean your metal wheelbarrows, but instead of treating with WD-40 purchase a can of Rustoleum metal spray paint and paint the bowl of the wheelbarrow to keep it strong and rust free. With a cloth rub Linseed oil on the handles along with any wood pieces to keep them from drying out, splintering, and rotting during the winter, because handles have the most stress on them when used to move heavy loads. One last thing I want you to do is spray all your rubber tires with Pledge furniture polish to hold the moisture in the rubber and help prevent them from drying out and cracking.

Your fertilizer spreaders should be washed to remove fertilizer or lime dust that has built up on the moving parts and application ports. Let it air dry and then treat all moving parts with WD-40, especially the holes at the bottom of the spreader so they do not rust and become larger. If your holes get larger due to rust, you will be applying more product to the lawn than the bag calls for. When more product comes out it will cost you more money to teat that area and you may also burn the lawn with the extra fertilizer you applied. No one likes a lawn with stripes in it, plus if you over-feed your lawn it will grow faster and you will have to mow it more often.

Now for your hand tools and long handled tools. Clean them well and treat metal surfaces with WD-40 and wooden handles with linseed oil to help keep them strong. Last year I hung a 5 gallon bucket on the side of the tool shed and I now have a place to put all my hand tools, pruners and small gardening equipment--even gloves. I always know where to find them when I need them now. I also hate driving over them when mowing the grass, not very good for the tool--or the lawn mower blade. I did the same thing for all my watering tools and now I can always find the nozzle when I need it.

Drain your hoses of all water in them by throwing one end of the hose over a fence and pulling it to you as you coil it up in a neat roll. I then tie it in two places so it won't untangle, and it's ready if needed to wash road salt off the car during the winter; a frozen hose can be a real problem if you need it later. I hang it on the wall so I won't trip on it during the winter-- that also gives me more floor space for storage. Put the nozzle and the sprinklers in your bucket hanging on the side of the shed also.

I take all my granular or powdered fertilizers and insecticides and place them in a black plastic bag to help keep out moisture and place them on top of a bench so they stay loose, and don't turn into a solid block of product. Dampness from the floor will encourage your product to become solid and unusable in the spring. All liquids, especially pre-mixed products like Round-Up RTU, have a lot of water in the bottle, and they will freeze, affecting the performance of the product next year. Box them up and move them to your basement to prevent a decrease of the effectiveness of the products or breakage of the container causing a chemical spill--and real problems.

If you have a pump sprayer, remove the plunger and turn the sprayer upside down to keep moisture out and prevent corrosion. The rubber gasket around the plunger will go bad quickly because it is in contact with many products during the year, so every fall I coat it with a bit of Vaseline to keep it from drying out. Bottle sprayers used to control weeds on the lawn or apply insecticides on your plants should also be cleaned and opened to prevent corrosion in the mixing valves.

Bring in your garden statuary, clay, or ceramic pots, and gazing balls, also bird baths that are deep and hold a lot of water, because they will freeze and break. If you want to provide water for the birds purchase a bird bath that has a gradual slope and no lip on the bowl or it will break with the cold. If you have a large fountain, drain it of all water and cover it up with a piece of plastic sheeting. Now tape it together to prevent moisture from getting into the fountain and the wind from blowing it off. The pump should spend the winter in the tool shed.

If you're plowing or using a snow blower during the winter to remove snow on your driveway, now is the time to place stakes along the edge to help guide you and prevent damaging your lawn when it's covered with snow. After the snow storm we had last week, let's buy a couple bags of salt or sand and salt mix now so we are ready for the next storm. Do you have a snow shovel, wind shield scraper...how about a battery charger? If you're using gas during the winter months and storing it in gas cans, let's purchase a fuel treatment activator to keep that gas free of moisture. If you have a walkway with gardens near it, how about a salt free product to prevent damage to those plants.

Before you close up the tool shed for the winter, make a list of tools you will need to replace for next year's garden. Christmas is coming and this note will help Santa bring you what you need for next year. If you have had problems with rodents spending the winter in your shed, place a couple packets of Bonide Mouse Magic in the shed and close the door tight to keep them out and your equipment safe. I always add a couple of additional packets after Christmas just to be sure they stay out.

One last thing--before you close up the tool shed, buy a bag of potting soil and store it the shed just in case you need to re-pot one of your house plants during the winter or you want to start some early seedlings on your window sill. Lettuce or spinach will do quite well in pots during those long days of winter. Get to work this weekend while the weather is nice--you never know when the next big one will come.
Jason Aldean - Big Green Tractor
Jason Aldean - Big Green Tractor

  
Winter Aconite and other early spring flowering bulbs

The first is called snowdrops, also known as Galanthus, from the Greek. Galanthus means "milk flower;" named so because of the milky-white flowers. These bulbs are a member of the Amaryllis family and are native to the Mediterranean but are very hardy all over America. This wonderful flowering bulb is easy to grow and its normal flowering time in the Northeast is from January to March. It is one of the first bulbs to flower and if you plant some in a sheltered location, near the foundation of your house they will begin to bloom in late January and last well into March.

Grow snowdrops in a sunny-to-partial-shaded area in your garden, along a wooded path, between shrubs or under flowering trees. They will grow best in a soil that is welled drained and able to hold moisture during the heat of summer. If your soil is sandy be sure to condition it with compost, peat moss, or animal manure and work in a bit of Soil Moist granules to help retain moisture. Snowdrops will not survive in soil that is heavy in clay or in gardens that stay wet during the spring or winter months with standing water.

Plant the bulbs 3 to 4 inches deep and space them 2 to 3 inches apart in your hole. I like to plant the bulbs in groups of 5 per hole and in just a couple years this clump will begin to enlarge because this wonderful bulb is self-seeding and will quickly expand in size. When you plant, and again when they finish flowering, fertilize with Seaweed Kelp Meal or Bulb-Tone fertilizer. Stay away from Bone meal to prevent attracting rodents to the garden. Plant your bulbs now to give them time to get established before the ground freezes.

Snowdrops will also do quite well when planted in groups in groundcover beds such as English ivy, myrtle and ground cover junipers for a bit of early color. Plant a clump or two near your back door because when you go to work each morning it will help you sense that spring cannot be that far away, making winter feel shorter. Snowdrops are rewarding flowers for your garden and as they mature and become better established in your garden, the numbers of flowers will increase each and every year.

The flower is unique because it has 3 inner petals that are short with a green spot on its tip, and 3 larger petals that are pure white and about twice the size. Some varieties droop like bells while others seem to open up and resemble tiny birds in flight. One last thing--when the flowers fade, never cut back the foliage that remains, because the foliage is making energy for the bulbs in the ground for next year's flowers. Snowdrops are happier in a fertile soil and they will multiply faster when planted in shrub beds or under trees that have been mulched to help protect them during harsh winters.

The second early flowering bulb is the Leucojum , known as snowflake or the snowflake plant. The Greek name means "white violet" because of their delicate fragrance. Snowflakes are also a member of the Amaryllis family, native to Europe and--most of do not know this--there is also a fall flowering variety, but it is not as attractive and seldom available.

The snowflakes are more adaptable to any type of garden soil than most bulbs and will do great in every types of location from sun to full shade. They will grow best in a rich soil that is well drained and will not tolerate standing water at any time of the year. Snowflakes prefer a rock garden, perennial gardens, borders, and they naturalize well in tall grassy areas or under tall growing trees like pines and oaks. This is my favorite spring flowering bulb for planting under trees in large planting beds or in openings in a wooded yard. As they multiply and spread, your woodland will become alive with early spring color.

If you're looking for small cut flowers to place in a tiny vase on your kitchen window sill, this is your plant. The flowers resemble small bells and these flowers have 6 petals like the snowdrops, but they are all the same length and size. Each of the petals has a tiny dot on the tip of the petal and the flowers hang down on 6 to 8 inch stems. Like the snowdrop, if undisturbed they will last for many years in your garden.

Fertilize when planting and again when they finish flowering in the spring. They also flower from late January to late March like the snowdrops but they can have several flowers on each stem, unlike the single bloom found on each stem of the snowdrop. Like the snowdrops, they are also self-seeding, are not eaten by rodents and--if fertilized when they finish flowering--will spread and multiply in your gardens.

The third is called Winter Aconite, also known as Eranthis, and it comes from the woodlands of Europe. It is a member of the Ranunculus family. They love a rich soil with a lot of organic matter so be sure to condition the soil before planting with compost or animal manure. Winter Aconite will do best if your soil is not acidic so be sure to add limestone or wood ash to the planting bed or even in the hole when planting the bulbs. Like the other two your soil must be well drained and never have standing water over them.

Winter aconite (Eranthis) also bloom early in the year, and by late January (if the ground is not frozen) they will begin to flower and last until late March. The flowers are a cheery bright yellow and resemble large buttercups. The bract of the flower often resembles a deep green flat needle-like collar around the flower, making it extra showy. The bract is not a true leaf but part of the flower; for example, our Christmas poinsettia that has all the red foliage around those small yellow button flowers on the tip of each branch. Each bulb will produce several flowers on short stems and they also bloom about the same time as snowdrops and snowflakes and look great when planted in the same flower bed.

When the plant finishes flowering, it will also make seed that will develop into new bulbs in several years and flower. Allow the foliage to turn brown before cleaning the flowerbed, as it is important to rebuild the energy the plant used to make those wonderful flowers. Fertilize when planting and again as the flowers fade to insure more flowers next year. Again, a sweet soil is the secret to this bulb and if you can spread limestone or wood ash around every year, they will multiply and quickly naturalize your plantings beds.

Before you plant the bulbs, soak them overnight in water to help get them off to a faster start, because the bulb is a small hard and knobby tuber. Plant them in groups of 5 bulbs, 2 inches apart and 2 inches deep for a better show of color. Plant them in a location under deciduous shrubs and trees as they love the winter sunshine and shade during the summer months. They are also self-seeding and will spread quickly if fed when planted and again every spring when the flowers fade. If you have a wooded yard with deciduous trees, plant them for wonderful early color. They will also do great along a stream as long as its feet are out of the water at all times. Plant winter aconite where you have lily of the valley, hosta, bleeding hearts, and Christmas roses growing for early color.

Now say to yourself: the snow will melt, and when it does, I will plant these wonderful late winter-flowering bulbs to help keep me SANE during the long days ahead of me! Enjoy.

Rodney Atkins - Farmer's Daughter
Rodney Atkins 
Farmer's Daughter
 
Yes you can grow a boston fern in your home this winter

Have you ever wondered how plants get their names? Well, the Boston Fern got its name because it is a mutation of a tropical fern that was found growing in a parlor in Boston, Massachusetts around 1890 by a tropical plant grower from the South. A mutation is a new plant that develops with a different appearance from a known plant. This new plant is totally different; it has unique features, interesting characteristics, the growing requirements have changed and so has the appearance of this plant. Mutation is rare in nature, but this mutation made the fern a plant that could be grown inside your home--no longer a plant for a warm climate that grew outside only.

The Boston fern is a close relative of the sword fern that grows wild in southern Florida and tropical regions of the Pacific. It mutated from the Sword Fern, and today it is the most popular of all the ferns grown. What makes this plant unique is its ability to grow in a brightly lit window. Most other ferns prefer a shady location--even a dark location--to grow in your home but the Boston fern will survive in those conditions, just not thrive or grow very well; it needs light.

What I love best about the Boston fern is that it can be grown on your back porch for the summer months or on a shady patio. When the weather begins to get cold, it can be brought into your home for you to enjoy all winter long--and if you follow a few rules it will give your room a bit of tropical look.

If you have tried to overwinter or grow a Boston fern in your home for the winter and have had problems in the past, follow these easy steps for success. The main problem is when you bring them into your home they begin to shed their leaves and the dried up leaves fall to the floor, creating a mess. This is unacceptable but it can be avoided if you do the following.

Boston ferns require bright indirect light at all times. If you live in the northern part of the country, your fern will grow best in an east facing window with morning sunshine or a west facing window with late day sunshine. A south facing window even in the dead of winter is too bright and the direct sun will burn the foliage. If this is your only window, move the plant to one side or the other to create filtered light.

Boston ferns will not survive if you have a forced hot air heat in your home. This type of heat removes all the moisture from the air and the plants cannot survive in this climate. You cannot grow Boston ferns in a room that has a wood or coal burning stove for the same reason--the air is too dry. If you want a beautiful plant, you will have to mist the foliage every day; not just when you think of it, but every day.

A humidifier is the best way to keep the plant happy because it will apply the moisture to the air constantly, just as it was growing in the wild outside. A humidifier will also help your family sleep better during the winter, and your wood furniture is less likely to dry out and crack. Moisture in the air will benefit all your plants in your home, so keep the Boston fern in the same room as your humidifier. I also place my plant on top of a large saucer filled with stones. I fill the saucer to just below the bottom of the pot with water every morning and during the day that water evaporates creating a micro climate around the plant; but never let the pot sit in the water.

Now, temperature is also something that will affect the growth of the plant. Your Boston fern will do best with daytime temperatures between 65 and 70 degrees and 60 to 65 during the evening. If your plant is in a room that gets warmer than 70 degrees, place the plant on top of a table or on a plant stand rather than hanging it from the ceiling. Heat rises and the temperature near the ceiling could be as much as 10 degrees warmer than at waist high in the room.

All types of ferns love to be fertilized every 2 weeks all year long; lack of fertilizer will also cause yellowing of the foliage. Feed at half the recommended rate with something like  Blooming and Rooting plant food. If you forget to feed, as most of us do, use Dynamite  pellet fertilizer; this is a wonderful slow-release plant food that will feed your plant for up to 3 months.

Watering is important and ferns need to be kept moist at all times but never sitting in a saucer of water. I put the plant in the sink once a week and give the plant a good watering and soak the foliage at the same time. This is also a good time to clean off any foliage that turns brown on the plant. Use warm water when watering your plant so not to chill the plant, and if your foliage is beginning to lose some of its shine it is usually caused by allowing the soil to dry out between waterings.

When you purchase a Boston fern you will notice that the plant is growing in the center of the pot. As it matures, new foliage will develop closer to the edge of the pot and some of the older foliage in the center will begin to die off; this is natural.

In the spring, your fern will need to be re-potted. I usually examine the root ball first. Usually you will notice small plants developing up against the side of the pot in the root zone. On the top of the plant you will notice dead spots in the center with all the foliage developing from around the edges. If your plant is large and mature, cut the plant in half and repot into 2 new pots during March or April, and by summer you will have 2 plants that will thrive on your porch or patio during the summer. Feed with Dynmate fertilizer and watch the new plants quickly develop.

When you re-pot your plant, use a good potting soil and blend in 50% peat moss or compost to the mixture. If your new shoots growing around the side of the pot look good but the center is mostly dead, pull the new shoots from the root and dispose of the dead portions. Now plant the new shoots in a clump in the center of the pot and watch them quickly develop into a new healthy plant in just a few weeks...think division. Keep plants away from drafty doors that open and close often to prevent chilling, and away from heating ducts to prevent dehydration of the foliage when the heat turns on.

There are now several new varieties available of the Boston fern: The compact is my favorite. It grows to 18 inches wide and stays compact, not floppy, so it works well in a pot in a planter. Also nice is a variety called 'Fluffy Ruffles,' which is more upright growing, with stiff branches; also 18 inches tall and spreading. If you want a large growing plant that will cascade over the side of the pot look for the variety called 'Bostoniensis.'

Ferns are a bit of work but your efforts will be rewarded with a plant that brings the warmth of Florida into your winter home covered with snow. Enjoy.

"When you feel like life's turned you back into a pumpkin, make pie"

Jane Lee Logan
John Deere Green - Joe Diffie
John Deere Green - Joe Diffie

 

 

Preparing your garden for winter


If you did any planting this year around your home during the spring or summer, spend a few minutes to prepare your new plants for the seasonal changes of winter. All I want you to do is walk around your property for a final inspection and make sure the plants are ready for winter. Use this quick checklist of suggestions that has helped me with my plants over the years.

I start with the lawn and always look for potential problems with moles. If you had a lot of Japanese beetles in your garden this summer you have a better chance of having moles. You will notice raised mounds or raised tunnels running near the surface of the grass. When you step on them they flatten easily, letting you know that the tunnels are actively being used by the mole. Most of these tunnels will be found at this time of the year near areas of your property where tall grasses are growing, near wooded areas, near large mulched planting beds or near walkways and driveways. The moles spend the summer months hiding in these protected areas from predators but as the season changes they move out into the lawn and start digging the tunnels in search for food for the winter.

Once the ground is cold, frozen, and covered with snow they become a digging machine and can destroy your well-kept lawn over the winter, especially if we have an early snow cover. If you find tunnels or mounds act NOW by treating the area with a product like Fertilome mole-go or Bonide MoleMax. These product are not a poison; keeping the lawn safe for your pets and family, they are repellents and will halt the moles' movement into the middle of your lawn where they can make major damage to your lawn. Knowing this, you only have to treat the perimeter of your lawn around the edges with a 10 to 15 foot band, not the entire lawn, and that will save you money.

If you planted new evergreen ground covers like English ivy, pachysandra, or myrtle/vinca I would suggest that you spray them with an anti-desiccant for the first winter. This will help lock moisture inside the plant and prevent wind damage and sunburn, as these plants are young and possibly not fully established yet. When you figure out the time it took you to prepare the planting area, planting of the ground covers, and the cost of the plants it is well worth the few dollars it will cost to protect your investment--good insurance. A product like Wilt-Pruf or Wilt-Stop can be purchased at your local garden center in a ready-to-use sprayer for small areas or in concentrates for large planting beds. Start off next spring with healthy green plants and avoid filling in the holes where plants died during the winter.

If you planted a row of arborvitae to create a privacy or noise barrier this year, purchase a ball of green string and tie up your plants to prevent snow or Ice damage. Just tie one end of the string to a branch a couple feet above the ground and walk around the plant wrapping the string in a corkscrew pattern around the plant until you get three quarters up the plant. Pull the foliage together as you wrap and this will keep the young and not mature branches protected from damage. Arborvitaes are multi-stem plants and heavy, wet snow or ice can split them apart until the plant has matured. If you live in an area where Deer are found, I would add the new Bonide Repels all to your planting to protect them. If food becomes scarce and the snow gets deep, deer LOVE arborvitae, and--again--a bit of insurance can save your plants from being eaten. They're young, tender and tasty and for a couple of dollars you can save a plants that cost over $25.00 each. Think for the long term; each year they grow they become stronger, larger and more valuable.

Newly planted broadleaf evergreens like holly, rhododendrons, azaleas, mountain laurel, and boxwood should also be treated with an anti-desiccant spray for the first year--especially if they are in a planting bed that receives a lot of sun during the winter months. When you planted the shrub, and if it was cared for properly will determine if the plant had enough time to become fully established in your garden before winter arrived. Sun and wind create the problem with new plants the first winter, and if the roots are not fully established and the plants ready you will have damage. If you planted azaleas, be sure to spray the flower buds on the tip of the branches to protect them and insure flowers next spring. Again, a bit of insurance now can go a long way next spring.

If you planted a new tree that is over six feet tall and it is in an open area of your lawn, purchase a staking kit and tie down the tree so it will not move or blow over with the wet and stormy weather ahead of us. Your main goal is to keep the plant root ball from moving and hurting the newly developing root system. If that tree is a fruit tree or flowering tree, also wrap the trunk from the ground to the first branch with a tree guard or hardware cloth wire to prevent rodent damage. The bark is tender and has not hardened off yet, so it is vulnerable to being eaten by rodents during the first couple of winters. Also be sure that there is a covering of three inches of bark mulch around the base of the tree to help keep the soil frozen during the winter. Exposed soil will freeze and thaw during the winter, damaging the root system of the new tree.

In your perennial flower beds, be sure to cut back to the ground all plants that have turned yellow or brown and rake the garden clean. This fall clean-up will remove insect eggs and disease spores left on the plants for next year. Insects and disease ALWAYS plan for the next year in the fall, so they can continue to survive from year to year in your garden. This is also a great time to apply Lighting Lime or Turf turbo  to sweeten the soil and keep the plant productive. Acid soil will slow down the development of your plants in the garden and produce fewer flower buds.

The vegetable garden should also be cleaned of all dead plants, and lime the soil to prevent blossom end rot on your tomatoes and squash plants for next year. Blossom end rot is a rotting on the underside of the tomato fruit or the tip of the squash and is caused by lack of calcium in the soil. Use lime at the rate of 50 pounds per 500 sq. ft. of garden. If you live near the seashore, go to the beach and collect the seaweed that washes ashore at the beach and spread it over your garden for the winter. Seaweed is full of stored energy and contains everything your plant will need to grow better next spring. Seaweed is a wonderful soil conditioner and better than peat moss for your garden soil. Just spread it over the garden now and till it in next spring when you get ready to plant the garden.

One last thing is to mow the grass down to 2 inches tall when it stops growing. This will prevent winter diseases that can be a problem if your soils have clay in them or you tend to have puddles that form during wet weather in the growing season. Tall grass will mat down--and if we have a winter with heavy snow and ice on the lawn that lasts well into the spring, you could have a problem. Sandy soils are not a problem but keep the grass short for the winter to avoid problems. If moss is visible, lime the lawn now so it has time to sweeten the soil before spring arrives. Did you know that crabgrass and common lawn weeds have a more difficult time growing in your lawn if the soil is sweet than when the soil is on the acid side? Also, the grass can grow thicker and the fertilizer you apply becomes more effective, so lime the lawn in the fall. Any leaves or pine needles should be chopped up by your lawn mower and will turn into great organic matter to help improve your soil as they break down during the winter. So don't rake the leaves--chop them up and make your soil better for next year.

Cranberry-Orange-Pumpkin-Bread

The fall season is filled with wonderful flavors of sweet and tart taste. If your family loves Zucchini bread, how about trying this fall breakfast bread made with fresh pumpkin, dried cranberries and a bit of orange juice. If you're having friends over for brunch, surprise them with this wonderful fall bread.

Ingredients:
2 cups of white sugar
1 sticks of unsalted butter softened
4 jumbo eggs
2 mounded cups of fresh pumpkin meat
1 tablespoon grated orange zest
The juice of 1 large orange about 3/4 cup
3 1/3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon of ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon of salt
teaspoon baking soda
1 cups of walnuts, chopped
1 cups of dried cranberries

Directions:
1} Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease two 8 by 4 inch pans with butter.

2} Beat the sugar and softened butter in a large bowl until fluffy. Add the eggs, pumpkin, and zest. Add to the sugar mixture and continue beating until well blended.

3} Sift the flower and add the baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and baking soda into the pumpkin mixture.
4} Fold in the nuts and dried cranberries.

5} Divide the batter between the two pans. Bake 70 to 80 minutes, or until a tooth pick inserted into the middle comes out clean and the top is golden brown. Cool on a wire rack for 10 to 15 minutes before removing from the pan. Cool completely before slicing. Serve with butter. You can also freeze this bread when wrapped in plastic wrap and placed in freezer bag for up to 3 months.

6} You can use canned unsweetened pumpkin, but I like this bread better with fresh pumpkin. Quarter your sugar pumpkin, remove the seeds and filaments, and cook in your microwave for 5 to 7 minutes with the skin down. When you can pierce the meat of the pumpkin easily, scoop it out to a 2 cup measuring cup mounded and mash well in a mixing bowl and enjoy the flavor. Enjoy!

 


      

Garden Journal

        Garden Journal - A garden is a friend you can visit any time. Gardens require planning and cultivation, yielding beauty and joy. This garden journal helps make planning and organizing easy. This book makes a great gift for gardeners, family, friends, birthdays, Christmas, new home or as a self purchase.

 

Cover holds a 5 x7 or 4x6 photo, Heavy-duty D-ring binder

1. 8 tabbed sections
2. 5 garden details sections with pockets for seeds, tags....
3. Weather records page
4. 6 three year journal pages
5. Insect & diseases page - 3 project pages
6. 3 annual checklist pages
7. Plant wish list page
8. 2 large pocket pages
9. Sheet of garden labels
10. 5 garden detail sheets
11. 5 graph paper pages for layouts
12. 5 photo pages holds - 4- 4x6 photos in landscape or portrait format

Journal, Planning, Inspirations. 

 To Order call 207-590-4887

Regular price $34.95  Special Price $31.95!  special!        Supplies are now limited!

 

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