Halloween is around the corner let's decorate!!!!

Fats Domino - Blueberry hill 1985
Fats Domino - Blueberry hill 1985
The Paul Parent Garden Club, next trip is to Cuba


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Preparing blueberries and Strawberries for winter.


It's time to put the berry garden to bed for the season, a time to collect our thoughts of what we did to these plants and what they produced for us. I drove by a "Pick Your Own Strawberries" field in October and noticed that they were covering the berry beds with two inches of straw. I pulled in to the berry fields and talked to the workers, to find out that the fall is the best time to prepare the bed for the year.

Applying fresh straw in the fall helps to protect the berry plants from cold and snowless winter winds, as snow acts as a blanket of insulation to protect the plants. Straw, not HAY, is used to keep weeds out of the strawberry bed during the year; it helps warm the soil in the early spring to wake up the plants and get them growing. Straw also keeps the berries clean, as they are off the ground and slugs are less of a problem. When the workers finished, they were planning to apply limestone to the entire growing area to help keep the soil on the neutral side--remember neutral soils have less weeds growing in them.

In the spring, the strawberry plants will poke through the straw and begin to grow on top of the fall layer of straw, which also helps with air movement around the plant to help prevent possible rotting of the berries and speed up ripening. In the spring, just add a bit of fertilizer and the plant is ready to produce. Use a fertilizer like Garden Tone first thing in the spring and again in early summer, after picking the berries, to help the new developing plants for next year's crop. All you will have to do now is keep the birds out of the garden and enjoy the berries.

In the blueberry garden, it is time to clean all the fallen leaves from around the plant and add them to the compost pile. When the garden is clean, add a two-inch thick layer of pine needles, straw, salt marsh hay, or pine bark mulch around the plants and in between the rows of plants. This layer of organic matter will insulate the roots of the plant during the winter, keep them cooler during the hot days of summer and control weeds in the garden.

I like to fertilize these plants spring and fall with Holly-Tone fertilizer, and I add aluminum sulfate in the spring and fall to help keep the acidity level high in the soil. Aluminum sulfate will lower the pH of the soil, helping plants achieve their goal of high crop production. Also use it on blue hydrangea spring and fall to keep the flowers blue.

Once the garden is ready for the winter, I always apply All Season Oil and Copper Sulfate Fungicide to the entire garden. This will help destroy any insect eggs or disease spores left on the plant by insects and disease from this year. I also reapply both of these natural products again in April, so I will have few if any problems with the garden. In the spring, when I notice that the buds are beginning to swell, I apply my fertilizer to help the flower and leaf buds develop properly.

Strawberries are most productive the second and third year in the garden. The first season in the garden is to help establish the plants. At the end of the third, dig up the berry bed and replant for next year.

Blueberries are a real long-time crop that will last 25 years or more in your garden. With proper care, the plants will continue to grow, increasing production each and every year. So be sure to condition the soil when planting with compost and animal manure, mulch yearly, feed regularly and keep the soil on the acid side.

Most insect and disease problems can be controlled with the application of a general purpose fruit tree spray; follow the recommendations on the package to develop a spray program for your garden. The flavor of fresh-picked berries is far better than store-bought--and so is the nutritional level in the berries. Enjoy!


15 Interesting Facts About Autumn
15 Interesting Facts About Autumn

  
Fall is for planting!


If you live in the country, you might have noticed a small daisy-like flower in bloom on the side of the road at this time of the year. The daisy-like flowers, half an inch to one across, cover the plant with white, blue or purple flowers. These native wildflowers are grown at many nurseries for fall color and will grow well in your perennial garden.

This wildflower will thrive from Northern New England to Georgia but only grows wild in New England. Ancient Greeks called asters "stars" and legends say that Astraea, goddess of the sky, wept when she saw that there were no stars on earth, and asters sprouted where her tears fell. This Greek goddess must have loved looking at New England, as she graced us with millions of these plants. They are everywhere you look as you travel in New England.

The flowers begin to open in early September and last well into October, surviving cold nights and frost. The flower is daisy shaped and the petals form like the spokes of a wheel, with a dense button-like center that is traditionally yellow in color. New hybrids come in violet, lavender, pink, ruby-red as well as the common white, blue and purple. The same plant can have single or double flowers on the same plant, making them very showy. In the wild, asters will grow 6 inches to several feet tall and spread just as much. These fall-flowering New England asters grow along the side of the road in front of my house. I mow the grass there but they still bloom at the height of 3 inches tall, a great weed.

Asters grow best in full sun but will tolerate a bit of shade. The plants prefer a well-drained soil, rich in organic matter like pine needles and rotted leaves. If you can keep the area well watered during the heat of summer, your plants will grow and spread quickly but they will also tolerate a dry soil and just produce smaller plants. If you find Asters growing on the side of the road, fertilize them with a regular lawn fertilizer in the spring to create a real show of flowers in the fall, in the perennial garden.

Use compost, animal manure or a balanced fertilizer to feed asters. Apply it in the spring to help build a bigger plant for the fall. Because the plants can get quite large, I recommend that you pinch them in early July like your mums, tall-growing sedum and Montauk daisies to control the size of the plant. If your New England fall asters grow along the side of the road like mine do, do not mow them when the plants are in bloom, but when the plants turn brown, mow them down with your lawn mower as this will spread the seed to make more plants for next year.

This fall-flowering perennial is a wonderful plant to attract bees and butterflies to your garden, as they are rich in pollen for food for these insects. This fall aster will make a great cut flower for your home and will last for 2 weeks or more in a vase of water. Use them in perennial gardens, wildflower gardens, woodland gardens, in a mixed border.

Plant in the back of the garden as they will get tall and you may have to stake the plants or you cut back in early July to control the height of the plants. At this time of the year, plant with mums, sedum, flowering cabbage and flowering kale.

When you clean the garden in the fall and the plant has turned brown, shake the plant on the ground to spread the seeds for next year. This plant will make a great filler plant for your flowerbeds and wildflower or meadow gardens. If you started with hybrid plants, they will stay true to color and form. The new seed-grown plants will look different due to pollination from the wild or native varieties growing along the side of the road, but still very nice. If you clean the garden late in the fall, many small birds like finches and chickadees will feed on the seeds produced on the plant. EnjoyJust because the season has changed, it does not mean "pack it up and go inside." Fall is a wonderful time to get back into the garden and finish your planting. During the heat of this summer, especially this year, the temperatures made planting almost impossible-and, besides, summer is the time to enjoy your spring planting and the family. Now the kids are back to school, vacation time is over for most of us and it's time to do what you enjoy again; for many of us that is working in the garden. Right now, the soil is still warm and when you plant new shrubs and trees they will get established faster than when planted in the early spring when the ground is wet and cold.

Fall planting does have many advantages--including the price of the plant material, as many of the nurseries and garden centers are having sales on their plants. Here is what I want you to look for when planting in the fall of the year. First, look over the plant material and check the quality of the plants on sale. If the plants look good, the root ball is nice and firm; the root ball has a good covering of burlap on it or is in a container that is not damaged, you're on the right track to continue looking around. Look at the foliage of the plant--is it green and healthy looking? Look at the condition of the branches--do they look good or are there many broken or dead branches on the plant?

Many times fall sales are caused by bad weather during the prime season, leaving plant material that did not sell when it was at its best, due to the weather. For example, most flowering plants sell when they are in bloom; if the weather was bad when they were in bloom, many people don't shop for plants at that time. The plant finishes flowering and people lose interest until next year when they see them flowering again and the weather is good for planting. The plant is still perfectly good but because you do not see the flowers, you lose interest in the plant and it sits in the nursery. The smart nursery keeps the plants looking good and cares for them properly---and in the fall, the smart gardener takes advantage of the bad weather during the spring and purchases that plant on sale. Look at the nursery itself and how it has been kept up during the summer months; if the place is clean and well-kept it is a signal that the plant material was well kept also. Now is the time for you to act and save money on plant material you would like in your yard, and when spring arrives next year your flowering plants are already planted and ready to flower no matter what the weather is.

If you're looking at trees for your home for shade or color--even fruit trees--fall is a great time also. Follow the same rules I just gave you but add one more thing to look at, and that is the trunk of the tree. Make sure there are no major scrapes on the trunk or missing bark. Small nicks and scrapes are not a problem and in just a year or two they will disappear. Grab the trunk of the tree and move it around to make sure it is firmly attached to the root ball--if it moves like a straw in a glass of water, leave it there, as the plant could have root damage that cannot be repaired.

Look at the foliage on the tree, how does it look? Make sure the branches look good with little to no breakage. Now, with your thumbnail, scrape a small scratch near the tip of some of those branches to make sure that there is still green under the bark; if you see green the branch is healthy, if brown there is a problem, So walk away. Large trees should have a wire basket around them unless they are potted. When you plant that tree ,leave the wire basket on the root ball; it will rust away in just a few years and the spacing of the wire will not affect the roots that will develop in the future. AGAIN--keep the wire basket on the root ball! The one thing that must be removed is any rope that is wrapped around the trunk of the tree, especially if it is plastic. Plastic rope will not rot in the ground and can create a girdling effect on the trunk and prevent growth from developing properly. What will happen is that as the trunk begins to grow the rope stays in position, while the wood fibers grow around it but are restricted. The top will grow and get bigger until a good wind or snow storm comes and then the girdled area that is the weak point on the plant will break--and you lose your tree. One more thing--any tree over six feet tall MUST be staked to the ground in the fall to hold the plant firmly in the ground for a year so the roots can form properly!

If you're planting evergreens in the fall, especially broadleaf evergreens like holly, boxwood, rhododendrons, azaleas, etc. , I would treat the foliage with an anti-desiccant spray such as Wilt-Pruf or Wilt-Stop around Thanksgiving to protect the foliage from wind damage and dehydration. Spray the underside of the foliage first and do a good job and get every underside of every leaf covered, as that is where the moisture escapes from the plant. Then do the top of the leaf; it's a small investment with a real positive effect on the plant, especially if we have a winter with little snow cover, lots of sunshine, wind, and little rainfall. An investment of less than $2.00 per plant can save a $50.00 plant from a tough winter. I would recommend that all broadleaf evergreens be treated--even those planted in the spring--for the first year in your garden. Be safe, not sorry in the spring.

I don't recommend planting roses in the fall of the year. I do recommend that you mulch all roses after Thanksgiving with bark mulch or straw--not any earlier, or mice will move into the mound of protection and eat your plant during the winter. If you live in New England, mulch and use Wilt-Pruf or Wilt-Stop especially if rose plants are less than a year old. Not every winter will be like last year with mild temperatures. If you have potted roses, put them in your garage or tool shed for the winter out of the weather when they lose all their foliage--or around Thanksgiving. No heated buildings, and water well before putting the plant away for the winter.

All deciduous plants--plants that lose their foliage during the winter months--can be planted in the fall with great success and need no special protection during the winter except for a good layer of bark mulch or compost around the base of the plant. This mulch helps to keep the heat in the ground longer, giving the plant extra time to develop a god root system and prevents the ground from freezing and thawing during the winter hurting the new roots.

If you're planting hydrangeas this fall, I would recommend that you remove all the flowers from the plant by Thanksgiving to prevent heavy wet snow from damaging the plant with the weight of the snow on the flowers and breaking the branches of the plant.

This fall, get back into your garden and get a jump on next spring's planting. Fall is for planting and planning the garden to enjoy for next year.  Enjoy!
Bulbes d'automne plantation en pot
Bulbes d'automne plantation en pot
 

Need some help in your garden? Be sure to set aside a small space for a statue of Saint Fiacre.

Many gardeners have mistakenly thought that the statue of Saint Francis in the garden is their patron Saint but actually this honor goes to a monk from Ireland known as Saint Fiacre. The Catholic Church gave this honor of Patron Saint of Gardeners to Saint Fiacre. His day is celebrated on August 30 every year in Ireland and France where he spent many years. Since the middle ages, gardeners have celebrated this special day with masses and a floral procession from the church to the farms in the area to help insure a better harvest. The streets were planted with flowers and the Irish gardeners sang hymns written for this special Saint to help with the celebration.

Saint Fiacre was born in Ireland and was raised in a monastery. Saint Fiacre spent his days at the monastery after making a pledge of silence, and his days were filled with planting and harvesting crops as he appreciated what nature had to offer the people who worked the soil. He was drawn to the religious life and he desired to serve God in solitude. When his time came to help others he left the monastery and traveled south to the Nore River and built his home in a cave. Monks were regarded as physicians of the body and the soul in his time, so Saint Fiacre quickly set up his garden of herbs and food to help those in need. Soon people heard of his work and flocked to his garden for prayers, food, and healing. He fed the hungry and helped heal the sick with his herbs from the garden and prayed for all who came to see him.

Saint Fiacre again craved solitude and worship so he traveled to France where the Bishop of Meaux granted him land in a wooded area near the river Marne. He quickly built a house, dug a well for water, and cleared a space for his new garden of herbs, vegetables, flowers and fruit trees. Once the gardens were established, Saint Fiacre built his own monastery where he welcomed all those who sought counsel and healing. His vegetable garden and fruit trees fed the poor who came to him for help. The herb garden helped cure the sick who came to him. those who needed help for their mind and soul spent much time in prayer in the flower garden that surrounded the monastery.

Saint Fiacre died in 670 but people continued to come to his monastery, as it was believed that they would receive physical and spiritual healing--also guidance. Today people still come to the shrine of Saint Fiacre, where his relics are still believed to contain healing power. Saint Fiacre's knowledge of healing herbs and the plants that provided the best nutrition for the poor is what made him the healer he was. His monastery was built in the honor of the Virgin Mary where it was used as a hospice to care for sick and weary travelers who needed his help. When the work of the day was finished he would retreat back to the solitude of his room and pray. During the quiet days with no travelers he spent much of his time in manual labor in his gardens.

Now for the legend that made him a Saint. Fiacre asked the local bishop named Faro for more ground to plant food and herbs for the people who came to him for help. Bishop Faro told him he could have as much land as he could dig a trench around in just one day. The next morning, Fiacre knelt in prayer and began to use the point of his spade to turn the earth and dig his trench. Soon trees began to topple over, shrubs easily came out of the ground--and weeds moved out of the way in preparation for the trench he needed to dig to feed his many needy followers. Some saw this as a performance of sorcery--but not the bishop. Bishop Faro saw this as a gift from God and proclaimed it a miracle. The statue of Saint Fiacre is that of a hooded monk holding a pointed spade in front of him and is available at many garden centers in the springtime.

The word of Fiacre's miracle spread throughout Europe and more people began to flock to him for food, healing, and wisdom. Many of those people who came to the monastery soon brought seeds, and plants for his altar, and his gardens grew even more food and herbs from around the world. Because of his beautiful flower gardens and the flowers used from his herbs he also became the patron saint of florists.

Saint Fiacre also became the patron saint of taxi drivers because a small hotel in Paris rented carriages to get to his monastery and people called them "Fiacre cabs" and then just Fiacres. Soon the drivers took St. Fiacre as their patron saint and protector.

Other patron saints for gardeners are as follows:

St. Dorothy is the patron saint of fruit tree growers and orchard workers.

St. San Francisco de de Asis--Saint Francis--is the patron saint of garden birds and animals and ecology.

San Bernardo Abad is the patron saint of beekeepers; bees are necessary for the vegetable and flower garden.

Santa Barbara: is the patron of geology--for gardeners with big rocks, bad slopes and poor soils. Also the protector against being struck by lightning.

San Andreas: is the patron of fishing for those who have aquatic gardens with Koi and Gold fish.

St Patrick is the patron saint of organic gardening and, of course, the Irish people.

St. Valentine is the patron saint of lovers and small intimate gardens.

St. Elizabeth of Hungary is the patron saint of rose gardeners.

St. Urban is the patron saint of vineyards and grape growers.

St. Phocas is the patron saint of professional gardeners and flower and ornamental gardening

St. Ansovinus is the patron saint and protector of agricultural crops.

St. Jude is the patron saint of lost causes and desperate cases--for those of us with brown thumbs or gardeners with bad luck in the garden.

La Virgen de Zapopan is the protector against drought.

St. Werenfrid is the patron saint of the vegetable garden.

St. Anthony is the patron saint of lost items--my mother had this statue in her garden because with 5 kids, there was always was something missing.

San Ysidro (St. Isidore) is the patron saint of farmers and large gardens, also sheepherders.

Just thought you would enjoy knowing that there is help for you out there from the heavens above. Enjoy.

"Last night, there came a frost, which has done great damage to my garden.  It is sad that nature will play such tricks with us poor mortals."

Nathaniel Hawthorne

 

New England Fall Foliage
New England Fall Foliage

 



October is just beginning , fall is here, the days are getting shorter, and the weather has turned cooler, so let's get busy and begin to put the gardens to bed. 

Begin by cleaning your perennial flower beds and cut back your plants to the ground. By now most of them have begun to turn yellow or brown, so let's clean the garden of the foliage as it could contain insect eggs and disease spores for next year. Any fall-flowering plants can be cut back later, so enjoy them now. As you clean the flower beds, be sure to pull out all weeds that snuck in during the summer, as they could contain seeds that could cause more serious problems for next year--and some could be perennial type weeds that will double or triple in size for next year. Place all the dead foliage in your compost tumbler or compost pile to recycle that foliage into beautiful rich black organic matter for next year's garden.

Now rake clean the flower beds of all debris. If you have time now, how about adding a bit of bark mulch over the flower bed to help insulate the plants, just in case the winter is cold and we have little snow cover. You can also add a half-strength application of an organic fertilizer like Plant Tone  to help thicken the root system for winter. As you clean the flower bed, mark any open areas between plants with plant labels and plant spring flowering bulbs like tulips, daffodils and hyacinths for early spring color in that garden next year. If you have not applied limestone to that garden in the past few years, now is the best time to do it, as limestone will take up to six months for the microbes to make it effective and change the acidity of the soil.

If you have a large area to treat and your lawn has visible green moss, use Bonide turf turbo to treat the acidity of your soil. Add Turf Turbo to your lilacs, clematis, to your pink hydrangea to keep them pink and all your gardens to keep them more productive next year. One 40 lb. bag of Turf Turbo is equivalent to 10 50 lb bags of limestone, and it works in days, not months, saving you money and labor. Put a little bit in all your planters, containers, and window boxes to keep the soil in them sweet and productive.

If your annual flower or cutting garden is coming to the end of its bloom, now would be a good time to take it apart and start working on the soil for next year. Remove all annual flower plants from the garden and toss the plants in the compost pile with your falling leaves and pine needles. If you live near the ocean, get to the beach and pick up the seaweed that washes in with the tides. If you're lucky enough to find chopped up seaweed near seawalls, bring home as much as your car will carry to mix with your garden soil. If all you can find is big pieces of seaweed bring it home and spread it on top of the garden to dry. Once dry, it will become brittle; with your steel grading rake tap the seaweed flat into the ground and then blend.

Seaweed kelp is better than peat moss, as it contains all the goodness of the ocean, and the salt will not hurt your plants. Growing up in southern Massachusetts, I went to the beach with my Dad every fall and spread 3 to 6 inches of seaweed on the flower and vegetable garden. In 2 to 3 years we were able to cut our watering in half and the soil looked like black humus. Did the plants love that seaweed? You bet!

Take some of that seaweed and use it as winter mulch for your rose bushes and blue hydrangeas--and be sure to add as much as you can to your compost pile or tumbler. Use seaweed around your fruit trees instead of bark mulch, as the nutritional value is fantastic for all fruit trees. Blueberries, raspberries, grapes and other berry plants will also improve their production when mulched with seaweed.

In the vegetable garden, pull out everything now except for the late crops you planted in August and those that are still productive, like broccoli, Brussels sprouts, late beets and carrots. Clean the ground after you remove all the plants and spread seaweed as a soil conditioner. If you do not live near the ocean, this fall plant winter rye seed to condition the soil during the days of fall and early spring. Winter rye is a type of grass that will grow until the ground freezes and when spring arrives it will continue to grow again. In late April cut it down with your weed whacker and let it dry up with the help of the sun for a few days and then till your garden. Each winter rye seed will produce a green manure crop for you, and this will improve sandy soil and help break up clay-type soils. Each seed is capable of growing a root system up to a mile long that when tilled becomes the equivalent of peat moss.

It is now time to lower the cutting height on your lawn mower blade from 3 inches to 2 inches and keep the grass cut short until it stops growing. This will help eliminate winter lawn fungus problems once the snow arrives, as the short grass does not lay down on other grass, spreading problems from one grass plant to another. Also, when the leaves begin to fall on your lawn this fall do not rake up those leaves, MOW them--as the blade turns, it will chew them up into small pieces that will decay on the soil, making a rich soil covering to nourish and condition your soil for a better lawn next spring. Leaves and pine needles can also be ground up and used as a wonderful mulch for your gardens instead of bark mulch.

If your lawn is thin, rent a power seed slicer at an power equipment store and use the machine to add fresh seed to the existing lawn to make it thicker in just a few weeks. The thicker your lawn is, the fewer weeds you will have next spring. The fall is also the best time to add limestone  to sweeten the lawn and discourage moss growth. If you have problems with water on the lawn during wet periods or have road salt damage to the grass on the side of the road, it is now time to apply Garden Gypsum to open up the soil and flush out road salt and break up the heavy soils. The product is available at your local garden center or feed and grain store.

Bring out your snow blower and get it started or have it tuned up for the year. REMEMBER last October's snowstorm, 16 inches plus from Washington DC to Maine--are you ready? Before you put your mower away for the year, change the oil, drain the gas tank, and sharpen the blade for next year, I like to spray the blade with WD40 to keep it rust-free once sharpened. Also, get the chainsaw ready to cut if you should need it to remove fallen branches this winter.

Feed the lawn one more time between October and November, as the fall feeding is the best time to feed for your lawn. Spring feeding gives you 25 % storage in the plant and 75% usage by the plant to grow, but in the fall it is just the opposite 75% storage for strong plants and 25% is used for growth and root development. If you have any leftover fertilizer, place the bags in a plastic bag for winter storage and tie the top closed nice and tight to keep out moisture so fertilizer does not stick together creating a solid block of fertilizer for next spring--plus losing some of its effectiveness. So pick up a bottle of fresh-squeezed apple cider and enjoy your fall garden.

Fresh Cauliflower and Ham Casserole


Next time you cook a ham and have leftovers, try making this for the family. Your cauliflower will replace sliced potatoes and it will bring a new dish for supper. My mother made the best" scalloped potato casserole" for supper when I grew up. She was born and grew up in Maine and started picking potatoes at the age of 5 years old during the harvest time, so we ate a lot of potatoes growing up as the potato was her favorite vegetable. I know she would enjoy this variation of her casserole and so will you.

Ingredients:
4 cups plus of chopped fresh cauliflower florets, or one large head
cup of butter, cubed
1/3 cup of all-purpose flower
2 cups of milk, not skim milk
1 cup (4 ounces} shredded cheddar cheese
2 to 3 cups of chopped up ham or place it in your food processer and process like hamburger your fully cooked ham
cup of sour cream
2 cans of sliced mushrooms drained or a medium package of fresh, sliced

Topping:
1 mounded cup of bread crumbs, plain or seasoned
2 tablespoon of melted butter

Directions:
1} Place your cut up cauliflower in a large sauce pan; cover with 1 inch of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes or until tender.

2} In another large sauce pan, melt butter. Stir in your flour until smooth; gradually add your milk. Bring to a boil; cook and stir for 2 minutes or until thickened. Remove from the heat. Stir in the cheese and sour cream until melted and blended.

3} Drain your cauliflower. In a large bowl, combine the cauliflower, ham, and the mushrooms. Add the cheese sauce and toss to coat. Transfer to a greased 2 quart baking dish.

4} Combine topping ingredients; sprinkle over your casserole. Bake, uncovered, at 350 degrees, for 40 to 45 minutes or until heated through. Serves 6

5} If you have no extra ham, buy a piece of slice bone in ham steak that weights a pound to one and a half pounds, it's all cooked already, so just chop it up, remove the fat and bone and use it in your casserole. Enjoy! 

 


      

Garden Journal

        Garden Journal - A garden is a friend you can visit any time. Gardens require planning and cultivation, yielding beauty and joy. This garden journal helps make planning and organizing easy. This book makes a great gift for gardeners, family, friends, birthdays, Christmas, new home or as a self purchase.

 

Cover holds a 5 x7 or 4x6 photo, Heavy-duty D-ring binder

1. 8 tabbed sections
2. 5 garden details sections with pockets for seeds, tags....
3. Weather records page
4. 6 three year journal pages
5. Insect & diseases page - 3 project pages
6. 3 annual checklist pages
7. Plant wish list page
8. 2 large pocket pages
9. Sheet of garden labels
10. 5 garden detail sheets
11. 5 graph paper pages for layouts
12. 5 photo pages holds - 4- 4x6 photos in landscape or portrait format

Journal, Planning, Inspirations. 

 To Order call 207-590-4887

Regular price $34.95  Special Price $31.95!  special!        Supplies are now limited!

 

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