Come join us as we tour Cuba and see vintage American cars like this!
See the USA in Your Chevrolet Dinah Shore, 1956
See the USA in Your Chevrolet Dinah Shore, 1956
The Paul Parent Garden Club, next trip is to Cuba

Follow the link below for more information 

You can also click on the picture to view the information

*How to print articles at bottom of newsletter.                                                                          

Have you ever heard the story of how the narcissus got its name? A long time ago, Greek mythology stories and writing told the story of Narcissus, the young son of a Greek god, who was led to believe by his father that a long and happy life would be his if he never gazed upon his own features. By chance, Narcissus saw his own reflection in a quiet pool of water and fell in love with his own reflection. Because of this, Narcissus soon withered away; at the spot where he died, beautiful nodding flowers sprang up and were named after him.

Greek stories also tell of the narcotic perfume smell of the flower and how it was used to stupefy those who were to be punished for crimes committed. Other writers said that the fragrance of the flower led to hallucinations and madness. The beauty of the flower has led many gardeners to madness, but the madness is about the beauty of the flower in their gardens. Judge for yourself--plant daffodils in your garden this fall and enjoy the madness in the spring.

In the early days of daffodils, they were called "Lent lilies," as these flower bulbs bloomed naturally in the garden during the Lenten holidays. Today's Easter lily blooms naturally during late June; the Easter lily is forced into bloom by your local florist to celebrate the holiday. Another name given to the daffodil was "chalice flower," because of the shape of the corona or trumpet. Look at the narcissus trumpet--it does resemble the shape of the cup or chalice used to hold the sacramental wine.

The jonquil is a member of the amaryllis family. If you look at writings from Homer and Sophocles hundreds of years ago, you will see how popular they were back then. You may be wondering why I am using three different names for this bulb--let me tell you. Daffodil is the common name for the entire family; narcissus is the Latin or botanical name. The name "jonquil" was given to hybrids that were developed from this family; it means a sweetly scented, rich, yellow species of Narcissus having a slender rounded flower stem and rush-like leaves--hybrids. So no matter what you call them in your garden you are right, no matter what name you use.

Daffodils were wildflowers many years ago, like most of the flowers we have in our gardens today. The Dutch gardeners loved them so much that they began to cross them together to develop new flower strains, and their popularity grew and grew. Dutch records show that in 1548, there were only 24 different types of daffodils, in 1629, the numbers grew to 90 and by 1948, they had grown to almost 8,000 varieties. Today there are over 10,000 varieties and new ones each year.

In Holland today there are only two unique areas where daffodils are grown commercially. One area is 25 square miles in area and concentrated, while the second area is spread out over the country side and not much larger than the major bulb growing area totaling just 50 square miles of soil where they can be grown for exporting.

As the love for these bulbs grew, the Dutch government quickly realized that it would have to act to protect the quality of these bulbs and keep them insect and disease free if the industry was to prosper. The growers and the government together set up guidelines to protect this valuable crop. Strict rules were imposed to keep the Dutch bulb industry safe and strong. Today, no bulb can leave Holland until they are guaranteed to flower in your garden, and are certified insect and disease free.

Narcissus bulbs must be planted in a soil that is well drained and rich in organic matter if you want them to re-bloom for several years to come. Wet soil with standing water or soil that contains clay will kill the bulb during the first winter in the ground, because wet soil will rot the delicate roots. Animal manure or, better still, compost is the best soil conditioner when planting.

If your soil is on the sandy side, be sure to add Soil Moist Granules to help hold moisture around the bulbs during the summer time. When planting, select a location with as much sun as possible or plant under trees that leaf out after the flower fades to allow the foliage to make and replace the energy it takes to make new flower buds for next year. If planting under evergreens, plant near the drip line or tips of the branches to insure the bulb foliage gets some sun.

Bulbs need to be fertilized spring and fall for the best flowers every year. Apply Bulb-Tone fertilizer around the foliage while it is in bloom while you remember to care for the plant. Also NEVER, use bone meal as a fertilizer around outdoor bulbs as it will draw animals to the garden--and they will dig up the garden looking for possible bones left there as their food.

It is also important to remove the flowers as they fade to prevent the plant from making useless seed that will never develop properly in your garden. This way all the energy made by the plant is used by the plant for next year's growth and not wasted on unusable seeds. Use a plastic golf tee to mark the bulb cluster in your garden so you will know where to apply the fertilizer in the fall in the fall; weather will flake the paint off wooden tees.

Always plant in groups and never in straight lines as it will be easier to plant annuals around them as the daffodil foliage begins to fade. Remove the foliage to the ground ONLY when the foliage begins to turn yellow! Plant bulbs with a covering of conditioned soil that covers the bulb with twice as much soil as the bulb is high. Example: daffodil bulbs are 3 inches tall so you must dig a hole 9 inches deep! Three inches for the bulb and six inches of soil to cover it. I advise you use Bark Mulch over them for added winter protection.

If you are planting them as wildflowers and are naturalizing them, the grass will do the same as mulch to protect them. If you are mowing this area, be sure the foliage has begun to die back before cutting and NEVER use a lawn weed control product to control weeds or the bulbs will also be killed. When planting narcissus, be sure to plant the bulb with the pointed part of the bulb facing UP. Plant bulbs in groups of 5 to 7 bulbs for the best show of color; also, if the weather gets stormy, they will be able to brace each other from the wind and rain.

Check with your local garden center for information on blooming time so you can plant several types that will bloom at staggered times in your garden. Also consider height of flowers, shape of flower, flower color combinations--and look for unique characteristics of the plant. Remember daffodils are NOT eaten by animals of any type, so do not worry about voles this winter and rabbits and deer in the spring when they are in bloom. Enjoy
Small growing varieties of spring flowering bulbs to plant now!

Most of us think that big is better--and sometimes that is right--but when it comes to spring-flowering bulbs, think small bulbs this year. This fall, I would love for you to plant in your garden the "little" bulbs, the miscellaneous bulbs, sometimes called the minor bulbs, along with the traditional tulips and daffodils. The smaller spring-flowering bulbs usually cost less, so you can plant more for the same money and get twice the flowers. There are dozens of varieties of inexpensive spring-flowering bulbs that will bring your garden big benefits in terms of beauty, color, scent, hardiness--and that are not eaten by animals.

The little bulbs come in every color, they spread and multiply more easily than the larger bulbs, they usually require less maintenance in the garden and they will survive and flower for more years then the larger type bulbs do. Small bulbs can be planted in rock gardens, perennial gardens, open woodlands, and some will do well when planted in open fields, meadows or even in your lawn. I like planting these "miscellaneous" bulbs at the base of shrubs, under flowering trees, with ground covers and even in a planting of low growing ground cover junipers for spring color.

Many of these so-called "minor" bulbs will make wonderful cut flowers for a small vase on your kitchen windowsill or even on your nightstand by your bed. Just think about waking up to a vase of flowers as you turn off the alarm to greet the new day. All this is possible and much more if you act now by visiting your local garden center or nursery. Fall is the time for mums, pumpkins, corn stalks and Halloween--but fall is also the time to plant spring-flowering bulbs. This weekend, as you clean your gardens and put the garden to bed, ending the growing season, plan and plant the flowers that will wake you from the long winter inside and draw you back out into the garden.

This is all you have to do when planting bulbs this fall. Say to yourself: "Self, these bulbs will be in the ground for several years and the better I prepare the soil when planting, the better chance they will have to spread and survive for years to come." Condition the soil before planting with compost, animal manure, or seaweed kelp meal but stay away from the old-fashioned bone meal to prevent encouraging rodents from coming into your garden. If your soils are sandy, add some Soil Moist Granules to help retain moisture in the soil and encourage a good root system.

I always had a problem with rodents eating my bulbs in the garden, so last year I tried something different when planting and had great success. I dug my hole and as I added my bulbs, I worked into the soil a couple handfuls of crushed oyster shells under, over and around the bulbs. Crushed oyster shells are sharp to animals digging in the soil and it helped to keep them away, giving me the best results I have ever had. Oyster shells also gave the plants calcium and improved the drainage in heavy soils.

I also changed from bone meal to seaweed kelp meal as a fertilizer when planting and there was no smell to attract rodents and the neighbor's dog to the garden. Seaweed kelp meal is now available at many garden centers and provides more beneficial ingredients and fertilizers to the bulbs than bone meal ever did. I also fertilized my bulbs with seaweed kelp meal during the flowering season to help them flower longer and help them maker new flower buds for the following spring. Try it and you will like it, too--and so will your bulbs.

Chionodoxa/Glory of the Snow is an early spring-flowering bulb that has dainty starry shaped flowers that will bloom for 3 to 4 weeks in your garden. The upward-facing flowers come in groups or waves of 10 or more flowers per stem that can be cut and used is a small vase of water. The flower has 6-petals, is pale blue with a white center, and begins to flower during late February-March, depending on the snow. This bulb will spread in your garden--a real plus.

Crocus is a mid season-flowering bulb that flowers just before the tulips do in the spring. Everyone knows the crocus for its rainbow of colors--even striped varieties. The crocus also comes in a miniature type that grows 2 to 3 inches tall--and it flowers earlier than the common types, as well. The common large flowering crocus will grow to 3 to 5 inches tall and the bulb divides easily, spreading in your garden. This is the number one selling small spring-flowering bulb.

Eranthis/ Winter Aconite is an early spring-flowering bulb often flowering with snowdrops during February. The flowers often form a glossy bright yellow carpet on the bare ground. The flower has six petals and resembles buttercups but only grows 3 inches tall. When the flowers open, the foliage will develop around the flower, resembling flat, deep green needles. This plant does produce many seedlings from seed pods as the flowers fade. Great plant to naturalize.

Erythronium/Dog's Tooth Violets have wonderful wide-open, starry shaped flowers that droop on strong stems and often resemble miniature lilies. The flower petals are soft yellow on the outside and shiny golden yellow on the inside. The foliage is straplike and covered with streaks of brown, giving it much character. Purchase these bulbs early, as they may dry out in the display rack. Once planted, do not disturb the clump.

Fritillaria have bell-like flowers that will hang down on strong stems, making wonderful cut flowers. Many varieties of the small flowering Fritillaria will flower in April and May. Your color selection, flower shape, height, and size will vary a lot, giving you many choices to select from. The plants will do best with a bit of protection from the wind and weather, so plant near a building or an evergreen plant.

Galanthus/Snowdrops--these bulbs are tough and usually are the first to flower in the spring often when snow is still on the ground in February and March. The flower is a pendant white flower that hangs off a strong stem like a streetlight; a great small cut flower. You will notice a green seedpod on top of the flower and the green tips on the inner flower petals. It does reseed if the soil around the plant is not cultivated a lot. This is a must-have plant.

Muscari/ Grape Hyacinths are miniatures of the Giant Dutch hyacinths, very hardy and not eaten by rodents. Makes a great cut flower for small vases and comes in purple and white colors. They flower in late March to April and will reseed if your soil is rich and moist. Great for rock gardens and will tolerate harsh weather in open areas. The grape hyacinth is great plant for beginners to plant in the garden and for indoor forcing.

Dwarf Irises are unique spring flowers on short stems that will only grow 3 to 4 inches tall. The dwarf iris comes in many colors and has 3 to 4 flower petals that resemble the Flag iris, not the common German bearded iris. Plant bulbs in clumps or clusters and mark the area so you do not dig them up later. The flowers will last only a couple of weeks but they are beautiful. Flowers open in late April and are best suited for rock gardens, not large perennial beds.

Leucojum/ Snowflakes: the bell-shaped flowers are pure white with a green spot on the tip of each flower petal. This plant is often confused with Snowdrops but it grows much taller--up to 8 inches, and each stem will produce 3 to 5 flowers on each stem. Snowdrops make only one flower per stem. Great flowers for cutting and they flower later in the spring, usually during late April and May. The foliage is also deep green and grows very prolifically.

Narcissus/ Miniature Daffodils are just like the large-growing family of spring flowers but come in many unusual shapes, sizes and colors. Great cut flower, wonderful for naturalizing, not eaten by rodents and long lasting often for several years in the garden. Bulbs will divide and the clump will enlarge in size. This is a foolproof bulb that will grow just about anywhere and will bloom in the garden for several weeks.

 Skip the big varieties this year, and pick up the miniatures for wonderful character in your garden. Enjoy!
"You Are My Sunshine"
by Anne Murray 
if you are looking for unusual colors by your Hyacinths now!

When I think of fragrance in the garden, there is no better flower than the hyacinth! When in bloom, the flower produces a perfume that will fill the air around the garden with unforgettable fragrance that will bring you on your knees to take deep breaths of its intoxicating fragrance. The original hyacinth is a wild flower that grows all over eastern Mediterranean, in Asia and from Syria to Persia, where it stills blooms wild.

The Dutch took this wild flower to their breeding fields in 1562, and began to hybridize the plant to what you see today. Today, this plant is known as the Dutch hyacinth all over the world. In the early eighteenth century, the plant breeders had developed about 50 varieties, but today there are about 2,000 varieties available, and more coming every year. Madame de Pompadour recommended to Louis XV extensive hyacinth plantings for his palace garden. At the time, each bulb sold for $500.00--I like today's prices much better.

A well-known Grecian myth tells how the hyacinth received its name. Hyacinthus was a gifted and handsome mortal youth, beloved by Apollo, the Sun God, and also by Zephyrus, God of the West Wind. Hyacinthus preferred to spend playful time with Apollo. Zephyrus became jealous and was annoyed that a mere mortal, however talented and beautiful, could command Apollo's affection and interest.

One day when Apollo had challenged Hyacinthus to a game of quoits or throwing the discus, Zephyrus let his jealous fury go. He blew strongly on the discus and caused it to strike Hyacinthus on the forehead, ending his life. Apollo was grieved and vowed the beauty of the young Hyacinthus would always be remembered. From the blood of the slain youth, he caused a path of fragrant, purple flowers to spring up and named them after the dead youth.

The original purple hyacinth has been hybridized to a wide range in colors and many shades of each color for you to choose from. Hyacinth flowers have the truest and largest variety of blues of any spring flowers. Besides blue, look for white, yellow, pink, orange, scarlet, maroon, salmon, violet and just about every color in the rainbow. Hyacinths are the easiest of all Dutch bulbs to grow in your garden. They do better if planted a bit deeper than most bulbs.

Hyacinths will flower longer than most bulbs because of short, thick stems and the way that the flowers are arranged on the stem in rows side by side and close together. This tight flower will not blow over in heavy winds or rain like tulips and daffodils do. If you do not move the bulb once planted, it will last for many years and usually outlast the time in the garden of most bulbs. Hyacinths will do best in a light soil with good drainage, a soil conditioned with compost or animal manure and a soil that is refreshed every year with fertilizer like Bulb-Tone when the plant is in bloom.

When the flower fades, remove the entire flower stem right to the ground but do not touch the foliage until it begins to turn yellow, as this foliage is making energy for the bulb for next year's flowers. Hyacinths do best when planted in a sunny garden but will tolerate a bit of shade early in the day. Plant early in the fall to give the bulb time to make big roots and get established before the ground freezes. Plant bulbs in groups so they can brace each other in stormy weather, and remember groups of colorful bulbs look better and are more eye-catching than bulbs planted in rows or scattered throughout a large flowerbed as single bulbs.

Dig your hole 10 inches deep; add a bit of Soil Moist Granules and Bulb-Tone bulb food, never BONE MEAL, to prevent animals from digging up flowerbed looking for real buried bones. Cover the soil and keep the garden soil well-watered until the ground freezes. Space the bulbs 4 to 6 inches apart in the hole to give them room to grow. I like to cover the planting bed with bark mulch for extra winter protection.

One of the nice things about hyacinths is that they are not eaten by rodents such as mice, voles and squirrels. In addition, when the plants begin to bloom, hyacinths will not be eaten by rabbits and deer--and that is one thing less we have to worry about in the garden. All the rodents and animals we just mentioned love tulips and will eat them in the ground and above ground--but not hyacinths. Hyacinths are easy to plant and care for--and the animals that live around your home will not bother them.

For forcing--if you have an unheated garage or tool-shed, pot some bulbs in containers filled with soil and keep them watered and cool with temperatures less than 50 degrees. For the next 10 weeks, the plants will make roots and begin to think of flowering, so keep them cool.

I have used the steps that lead down into my basement from the bulkhead door with great success. Halfway up to the outside doors seems to have the best temperatures. Watering the potted bulbs is necessary during those 10 weeks of growing. After 10 weeks, bring a pot or two into the house and watch the bulbs begin to grow; enjoy the fragrant flowers in a couple of weeks. If you are going to force the hyacinth to flower, always use the biggest bulb you can find and stay away from bag bulbs--as they are too small to force.

Also look for the pre-treated hyacinths for forcing, in the special hyacinth glass that looks like an hour glass that tells time filled with sand. This special hyacinth glass holds the bulb in place and keeps the bulb in water at the right level to prevent root rot. I always buy extra bulbs and store them in the vegetable crisper to keep them cold, as they were tricked to believe that they already had winter.

When the bulb finishes flowering, toss it into your compost pile or pot it up with soil and place it on a sunny window for 4 to 6 weeks so it can make energy for next year. After the 4 to 6 week period on your windowsill, place the potted bulb in the basement and allow it to dry up. Plant in the garden in April and it will flower next fall.

If you have a grassy area or wild flower bed on your property and would like spring flowers, look for the miniature hyacinths called grape hyacinths. Grape hyacinths come in blue and white and will spread quickly in these areas as long as they receive plenty of sun.

If you have a shady area with good soil, look for wood hyacinths, which will naturalize very easily for you. Wood hyacinths come in white, pink, blue and purple. Just like the Dutch hyacinths, grape hyacinths and wood hyacinths are not eaten by rodents and other animals.

Like the Dutch hyacinths, these two beautiful hyacinths are fragrant, long lasting and spread in a soil that is well drained and fertile, so feed them when planting and every spring when they come into bloom with Bulb-Tone fertilizer. There will always be Hyacinths in our yard because my mother-in-law loved the smell, and beauty of them.

"Once you understand  what makes plants tick, you'll understand what you need to do to help them grow"

Barbara Damrosch
Alabama - Song Of The South
Alabama - Song Of The South



Fritillaria neleagris and it's many hybrids 

In the past, I have told you about the Giant Fritillaria called the 'Crown Imperials,' and they are wonderful and magnificent to look at--but today let talk about the miniatures because they are perfect for naturalizing. These spring flowering bulbs grow naturally all over Europe as a wildflower. They begin to flower when the guinea hens return to wet pastures and open fields, to start the mating process and lay their eggs in the springtime. The closed flower buds are the size and shape of the guinea hen's eggs, hence the name "guinea hen's flowers."

The guinea hen's flowers are the most popular and most well-known spring flowering bulb all over Europe. In America, their popularity is growing quickly and once gardeners see them in a friend's garden they must have them in their garden too. If you can find the right spot in your garden and the plant is happy it will quickly and easily naturalize itself, spreading beautiful flowers all over your garden for many years to come.

They love a shady spot in the garden, and a moist soil that is rich in organic matter and well-drained. When you plant Fritillaria in your garden, be sure to add a bit of compost, peat moss, or animal manure to condition the soil properly--do it right, and it will pay off in the long run. If your soil is sandy, conditioning the soil is a must. If your soil has clay in it, and stays wet during the winter and early spring, plant something else because the bulbs will rot in the wet soils.

When the flowers open they resemble small lanterns or inverted cups. In parts of Europe they are also called frog-cups or Lazarus bells, but to make it easy, call them Fritillaria hybrids. The foliage looks a bit like the foliage of tulips but smaller in size and a nice deep green color. Depending on the variety you select these hybrids will grow from 8 to 18 inches tall and the flowers will stay in bloom for many weeks, March to May.

I also want to tell you that the variety name (meleagris) means "a spotted coat of feathers " like that of the guinea hen. Many of the flowers have very unusual markings that resemble a checker board--no other flower family looks like this. The flower colors range from white, through purple, green, red, yellow, violet, mahogany, and many bi-colors.

Plant the bulbs as soon as you receive them, as they will dry out if kept in storage for a long time. Always dig your hole three times as deep as the bulb is tall, so the bulb has twice as much soil on top of it to grow in. Example: if your bulb is 2 inches tall, dig your hole 6 inches deep so twice as much soil covers the bulb. I suggest that you use Seaweed Kelp Meal as a fertilizer when planting to help the roots develop more quickly. When the flowers fade in late May, feed them again with Seaweed Kelp Meal to help the bulbs divide underground and make more flowers for you next year.

Stay away from bone meal as it will encourage rodents to dig them up. They will not eat the bulb but they will dig them up because of the smell of the bone meal. Plant your guinea hen flower bulbs in groups of 5 or more per hole, spacing them 3 to 4 inches apart between bulbs for the best show of color when spring arrives.

The Fritillarias will make noticeable seed pods, green and filled with seed. Do not cut the seed pods from the plant; allow them to ripen, and once the pods turn brown, they will crack open and drop the seed around the existing plant. In 2 to 3 years these seeds will have grown into bulbs and your clump will become larger, producing more flowers for you. These wonderful bulbs will do very well in perennial gardens, rock gardens, in shrub beds in-between shrubs and also under small trees like dogwoods and flowering crabs. If you have a garden on a sloping hillside, plant them near the top and watch them spread down the hill in the years to come.

Here are some great varieties to look for at your local garden center or on the internet.

Fritillaria Meleagris 'Checkerboard': with wonderful soft purple and white squares on the flowers. They grow 8 to 10 inches tall with flowers 1 to 2 inches tall and wide. This is the number one seller.

Fritillaria Meleagris 'Alba': a wonderful white version on the checkerboard also growing 8 inches tall. The flowers have no markings and they look wonderful planted in a clump of just white or mixed with the checkerboard variety for great color contrast.

Fritillaria Meleagris 'Artemis': Purple and green markings on the flower make it look almost grayish, and it almost glows. Taller growing 12 to 18 inches flower stems.

Fritillaria Meleagris 'Aphrodite': This bulb will make larger white flowers that will grow 8 to 16 inches tall. Look for the unusual green markings inside and outside on the flower.

Fritillaria Meleagris 'Jupiter': This bulb has the largest flowers. The checkerboard markings are deep red and white and the plants grow 8 to 1`0 inches tall, Very eye-catching.

Fritillaria Meleagris 'Mars': wonderful large dark purple flowers that are solid with no markings and grow 8 to 14 inches tall.

Fritillaria Meleagris 'Pink Eveline': A new hybrid with light pink flowers that will change color to white and grayish pink. They have wonderful checkerboard markings on the outside of the flower and grow 18 to 24 inches tall.

Fritillaria michailovskyi: A newly discovered variety found in Turkey in 1983. It will grow 8 inches tall with flowers that are very attractive and unique. The flowers are solid red-purple with a yellow lower edge and a yellow inside as well. The flower looks like a lily-of-the-valley bloom.

Fritillaria persica: a large flower variety from Turkey that can grow up to 5 feet tall! The flower is spike-like in appearance, almost resembling a Delphinium with bell-like flowers that are dark purple, almost black, hanging bells. This flowering bulb is very different looking from the other varieties of Fritillaria and it makes a great cut flower also.

Try this family of bulbs this fall for unique flowers next spring. Tulips and daffodils are nice but your garden will be the one your gardening friends will be talking about. Enjoy!

Creamy Yellow Summer Squash Soup

Even though fall officially started yesterday the weather continues to be summer like. My summer squash is still producing a few squash every week, not like August but enough to enjoy this wonderful summer vegetable. I have always enjoyed cream base vegetable soups, cold or hot and this recipe can be eaten either way. It's easy to make, takes little time to make, and taste simply elegant. Give this soup a try you will love it as your garden begins to come to its end for this year.


2 Tablespoons of butter
4 large leeks, slice the white part and a few slices of the green stem of each leeks, ˝ thick
2 mounded cups of sliced yellow squash ˝ inch thick, firmly packed
4 cups of homemade or packaged chicken broth like Swanson. If you're a vegetarian use vegetable cooking stock also made by Swanson.
1 cup of light cream
Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste


1} Melt the butter in a large sauce pan over medium heat. Add the leeks and sauté until softened and transparent, about 5 minutes. Add the squash and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1 cup of broth.

2} Transfer the squash mixture to a blender or food processor and puree until smooth.

3} Return the mixture to your sauce pan. Add the remaining 3 cups of broth, the cream, and salt and pepper to taste. Heat on medium heat until warm as you blend all ingredients together and you're ready to serve.

4 Serve hot or cold with a dash of paprika as a garnish and color. 

5} this creamy soup can be made the day before and refrigerated until you're ready to serve cold or warmed up for your family. Enjoy!



Garden Journal

        Garden Journal - A garden is a friend you can visit any time. Gardens require planning and cultivation, yielding beauty and joy. This garden journal helps make planning and organizing easy. This book makes a great gift for gardeners, family, friends, birthdays, Christmas, new home or as a self purchase.


Cover holds a 5 x7 or 4x6 photo, Heavy-duty D-ring binder

1. 8 tabbed sections
2. 5 garden details sections with pockets for seeds, tags....
3. Weather records page
4. 6 three year journal pages
5. Insect & diseases page - 3 project pages
6. 3 annual checklist pages
7. Plant wish list page
8. 2 large pocket pages
9. Sheet of garden labels
10. 5 garden detail sheets
11. 5 graph paper pages for layouts
12. 5 photo pages holds - 4- 4x6 photos in landscape or portrait format

Journal, Planning, Inspirations. 

 To Order call 207-590-4887

Regular price $34.95  Special Price $31.95!  special!        Supplies are now limited!


*How to print article's from our Newsletter -  Constant contact does not allow us to print articles one at a time

Do not use the "Print" icon unless you want to print the whole web page or email. Instead, follow the next steps.

Select the text you want on a web page where there is a story, paragraph, or a few lines that you want to print. Left-click on the mouse at the beginning and drag across to the end of the text you want and release. While the text is selected (highlighted), go to the top menu line and click "File" / "Print", in the print window that shows.  click on "Selection," and then click the OK or Print button. Some printers need you to select apply .

Do the same for emails. If you want to print a joke or article that you receive, do not click the Print icon. Select the text as above and use the "File" / "Print" menu and click "Selection", click OK or "Print".

Try another way to do a print job for text only. This involves selecting the text you want as above; then right click, copy and right click, paste to a word processor or even Wordpad (located in "Start" / "Programs" / "Accessories" / "Wordpad") and print from there. This method will produce a copy with no extra information. 

(855)660-4261 Sunday
Morning(6AM to 10AM)
Regular Phone Hours:
Mon-Sat  9AM to 5 PM
Sunday:12 pm to 5 PM




St Gabriel  Organics.
Natural Guard