Danger, danger Will Robinson the Spruce are in Trouble!
Beautiful Japan: Ashikaga Flower Park
Beautiful Japan: 
Ashikaga Flower Park
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Rhizosphaera Needlecast disease!

 Rhizosphae Needlecast of Blue Spruce and Fir Trees
In the last couple of years I have noticed that the Blue Spruce trees growing in New England have shown signs of a problem with the foliage. I stopped several times and examined several trees looking for the possibility of Spider Mite problems but found none. What I found was dead foliage from the previous year growth and in some cases the trees only had foliage from this year growth and an empty center with bear branches except for the tip. This year it got worse and I began to see damage everywhere I looked and the large mature tree up to 50 feet tall were suffering the most.

So I called the University of Maine Entomology Department, which I should of done a couple of years ago and I apologize to you who have this problem. I should of known that dead needles with a purple tinge to them was a disease and not insect but I never saw this problem before and I should of acted faster for all of you who have Blue Spruce. Here is what I found out and what to do if you have this problem. Here is what the University of Maine extension service has told me.

Introduction:

Rhizosphaera kalkhoffii is a fungus that can cause extensive defoliation of the Spruce family and the Fir family of trees, especially where these trees are grown out of their natural range. Colorado blue spruce is especially susceptible to this infection, but most spruce and true fir trees can sustain some damage. Damage in Christmas tree plantations can be extensive. Losses are due to lower tree market value due to needle casting, but tree vigor is also reduced and successive years of defoliation can lead to the death of the tree.

Environment:

Rhizosphaera spores require free water to germinate. Water must be present for two days for the spores to germinate and infect the needles at the optimum temperature of about 77 F. Such conditions occur during extended rainy weather and also under drying conditions. Shaded trees, trees with dense foliage and trees in areas of poor air circulation are most susceptible. Tender new needles and older needles of trees stressed by various environmental and cultural factors are vulnerable to attack.

Symptoms:

Needles infected in the spring will be without symptoms until late in the summer when they may start to turn brown or purple. Browning continues through the winter, but needles are not generally cast until a year or more after infection. This leads to an early season pattern of apparently healthy current year needled at the branch tips followed by browning of the previous season growth. In general, the disease tends to begin in the lower portion of the tree and works its way up the tree. In the spring, needles that were infected the previous year will show rows of tiny dots on the underside. These are the spore-bearing structures {pycnidia} emerging from the stomata and may be capped with whitish waxy plug.

Survival and Dispersal:

The fungus overwinters in needles on the tree and in needles which have fallen. In the spring, spores are splashed or otherwise spread from those needles to the new susceptible growth where infection occurs. In plantations, the spores may also be spread mechanically by workers as they walk down the rows or by pruning shears and other equipment.

Control:

1} Keep the trees healthy vigorous condition. Fertilize every spring and fall with Holly-Tone or Fertilome Tree and Shrub food

2} Do not prune your trees during wet weather.

3} Prune healthy trees first.

4} Sterilize shears to prevent spreading the problem, I recommend that you Dip pruners or hedge shears in bleach after every cut.

5} Remove all unhealthy unwanted trees or stumps that may be a reservoir for the disease.

6} Apply a preventive fungicide to the new emerging shoots when they are half grown and again when growth is complete.

 Appropriate fungicides that you as a home owner, can use is Fertilome High Yield brand "Vegetable, Flower, Fruit, and ornamental Fungicide Concentrate" that contains {Chlorothalonil-Daconil} fungicide or Bordeaux mix Organic spray. Call 888 583 5296 for a location to purchase the product near you. Always follow the label directions. This problem is also outside of New England, so check your trees Please and keep them healthy and enjoy the wonderful blue needle color.

This fall shake the tree or try to remove as many of the infected needles from the tree when possible also in the spring and fall rake around the trees to remove disease foliage that has fallen on the ground around your trees.  If your trees look O.K. now, it might be a good idea to have them professionally sprayed by a licensed tree arborist especially if you have a row of Blue Spruce planted on your property. Thank you, University of Maine for all this information to help my Garden Club listeners.  If you have friends or neighbors please pass this information on to them, send them the newsletter.  Thank you Paul

  
August is the busiest  month of  the year in the garden

#1 Because of all the rain this summer, the mosquito population become a major problem for those working outside (along with flies, gnats and no-see-ums), so let's treat our yard so we can enjoy being outside. Most of these insect pests will spend their time hiding in thick evergreens shrubs or tall grasses during the heat of the day, and come out to feed on you as the day cools down and evening arrives. They prefer dark colored clothing over light and bright colors. If you have type O blood you will be their first choice; if you're drinking an alcohol beverage or are wearing perfume or aftershave you will also become a preferred target--and if you're all sweaty from working in the garden you will be their first choice--so take a shower before going back out to enjoy your deck or patio for that evening cookout.

To control mosquitoes, be sure to treat all water features on your property like bird baths, fountains, garden ponds, self-watering containers, water barrels at the base of a house gutter and downspout. Also check pot saucers on your deck or patio that may be filled with water, watering cans filled with water, wheelbarrows left sitting up, your snow tires left up against the garage with water in them and wet or swampy areas with standing water. Use Summit Chemical Mosquito Bits or Dunks to treat these areas and kill the larvae before they mature into adult mosquitoes. These products are organic and will not hurt your pets and wildlife if they drink them. Mosquitoes need only one tablespoon of water to lay eggs in for more mosquitoes, so be sure your empty pots and containers are upside down when you store them.

If you want to enjoy the outdoors, spray your foundation plants, flower gardens, wooded areas around your home, thick growing ground covers and grassy fields with a product from Bonide Lawn and Garden called Mosquito Beater. Mosquito Beater contains 2.5% Permethrin, a safe and effective pesticide that will kill and repel mosquitoes, flies, gnats and no-see-ems. Just attach the ready to use bottle sprayer to your garden hose and spray these areas of your yard.

If you have a screened porch and are noticing mosquitoes sitting on those screens, window screens and screen doors, spray the screens with Lynwood Labs' Screen and Surface Spray. It will kill those mosquitoes, gnats, house flies and no-see-ems that land on the screens for 4 weeks or more and keep them out of your house. August is West Nile virus month with mosquitoes, so let's control the population now before things get out of control!

#2 Japanese beetles are now feeding on your flowers, vegetables, shrubs, and trees. They will eat their body weight in foliage and flowers every day, quickly destroying the look of your garden and killing some of your garden plants. In their spare time, they are also mating and producing eggs for next year's Japanese beetle infestation of your garden. The eggs are laid in your lawn about one inch deep into the loam, where they can feed on the roots of your grass and grow into a large grubs. Each grub will also eat its weight in grass roots every day that it feeds, killing your grass in large patches during August and September. The grubs live only in a sunny lawn--not in the shade--and eat grass but not weeds. Each adult Japanese beetle can lay 100 or more eggs during their lifetime each summer.

Spray your garden and affected shrubs and trees with Bonide Beetle Killer or--to stay organic--use Bonide's Captain Jack Dead Bug Brew with their built in bottle and self-mixing sprayer. Bayer Advanced also has two products called Complete Insect Killer or Vegetable and Garden Insect Control that will kill the adult Japanese beetles feeding in your garden or on your shrubs and trees--they are both very effective. If you are seeing the adults in your yard feeding on your plants in great numbers, it may be a good idea to treat your sunny lawn against the grubs so you do not lose your lawn this fall.

If you're treating your lawn against grubs, use Bayer Grub Control plus Turf Revitalizer or Bonide Grub Beater and then water well to change the granular product to a liquid to kill the grubs in your lawn in just days. It will last well into the fall season. If you wait to treat the problem until the fall, these products will not be effective when the soil get cold.

If you should see sign of animals or birds digging in your lawn during late September or early October, the only product that will kill the Japanese beetle grub in the lawn is Bayer 24 Hour Grub Killer Plus. This product contains Dylox, and it will kill the grubs in your lawn in just 24 hours along with many other types of turf insects. Dylox is the only product that is effective in the fall season to control insects when the weather gets cold.

#3 Vegetable garden insects for this month are the tomato hornworm, cabbage loppers, and Colorado potato beetles. All three peak this month, and can destroy your vegetables if not controlled. The tomato hornworm will be a large green worm the size of your fingers feeding on the foliage of the tomatoes and peppers and also the fruit they produce.

Cabbage loppers feed on all cold weather crops like broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kale, collards, cauliflower, and celery. The caterpillar-like insect is soft and fuzzy about 1 inch long and it is the same color as the plant it feeds on. It will make holes in the foliage of the plant and will also be found in the parts of the plant that you eat.

Colorado potato beetles are hard-shelled insects 1/2 to 3/4 inches long, oval, and have stripes running down their backs. They also have nymphs or young that are worm-like; these also feed on the plant, destroying the foliage and flowers on your potatoes and preventing potatoes from forming or maturing in the ground.

All three insects can be controlled with Bayer Vegetable and Garden Insect spray or Bonide Garden Eight. If you want to stay organic, use Bonide Captain Jack Dead Bug Brew which contains Spinosad, a wonderful bacterium that will kill many types of insects and not hurt the beneficial insects or birds in the garden.

#4 Poison ivy, poison oak, poison sumac and other noxious weeds are best controlled and killed during August, as they are growing faster this month than at any other time of the year. Each plant is making a lot of new growth at this time and this new growth will quickly absorb the weed killer sprayed on the foliage and will take it down to the roots to kill the plant faster than the older growth can.

Use Bonide Kleenup grass and weed killer as it is TWICE as strong as Roundup (18% Roundup to 41% Bonide active ingredients), and it is less expensive for you to purchase. Bayer also has a new weed and grass killer called Dura Zone that will do a great job and also provides up to 6 months of additional protection. Both of these products can be used in walkways, gravel driveways, drainage ditches and on your patio to control weeds.

#5 If you have Canadian Hemlock on your property that you use for privacy, shade, or as a noise barrier please look at the tips of the plant where the new growth was made this spring for the possibility of an insect called "wooly adelgid." Wooly adelgid will be found on the underside of the green foliage on the tips of the branches and looks like small clumps of white cotton. August is the month when this insect is laying eggs for next year on the plant in these cottony masses.

If your plants are under 6 feet tall, you can use horticulture oil to smother them on the plant--but the best way is to treat the plant is with a product called "Tree and Shrub" developed by Bayer Advanced and also sold by Bonide Lawn and Garden. Tree and Shrub is a systemic product that does not have to be sprayed on the tree; just mix in a watering can or bucket and pour around the base of the tree. The roots will quickly pick up the product and move it up the tree--even mature trees up to 75 feet tall--and the product will protect it for twelve months against this insect pest. The product will kill the adults this fall and the eggs that hatch next spring with just one application at this time of the year.

If untreated, this insect can kill a mature 75 foot tall Canadian hemlock in just 3 years--and I have seen this myself. Most of us do not have equipment that will reach that height and you do not have to worry about getting the product all over you if you spray. Just mix to the directions and pour on the ground at the base of the tree. Tree and Shrub will also kill emerald ash borers, Asiatic long horn beetles and fall web worms. Be sure to use it in the spring to kill the birch leaf miners on all types of birches without spraying.

The wooly adelgid treatment was just found in 2012 (new) and the treatment lasts all year. Tree and Shrub will also kill the little red beetle that attacks your Oriental and hybrid lilies during the spring and summer. It's called the Asiatic lily beetle, was found in counties in coastal Maine this summer--as far north as Portland, Maine. If unchecked, it could destroy the hemlock forests of northern New England. The only other natural way to control this terrible insect pest of hemlock is to have a winter with several days with temperatures below minus 20 degrees, so global warming is not helping to control or stop it from moving north. All states have joined together now and have stopped selling hemlock from one state to another to slow down the movement of this pest. So check your hemlocks for this terrible insect pest!

#6 Fleas and ticks are beginning to get ready to move indoors on your pets as the weather begins to change. They can tell--when the days get shorter and the evening temperatures become cooler--that it's time to find a warm place for the winter ahead. If you're finding ticks on yourself or on your clothing it's also another sign of the changes ahead of us. With all the rain this summer the flea and tick population is up, so be aware of a potential problem especially if you have pets that go outside regularly. Treat your yard with either Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer in a liquid or granular formulation this month or Bonide Lawn and Garden Ant, Flea, and Tick killer. Both products will last for 4 weeks plus--and when the frost arrives it will kill any remaining insects where your pets play in your yard. Once the fleas get into your house they will quickly lay eggs in your carpet, couch, and the dog's beds, so you will begin to feel them biting at your ankles when you're watching TV. If you start to notice a problem, Bonide Lawn and garden has a new product called Flee and Roach spray to be used on carpets, drapes, upholstered furniture, and pet bedding. It will kill the adult fleas on contact--also the larvae and the eggs that they are laying this month. If the problem cannot be controlled ,then you will have to use the new Bonide Total Release Flea Fogger that will provide 7 months protection in your home. So treat the yard now before they get inside your home later on this month.

7# Crabgrass is now growing like crazy due to all the rain during June. Did you know that 21 states from Florida to Maine and west had 10 to 15 inches of rain--and this amount of rain diluted the crabgrass preventer you applied this spring creating a bumper crop on your lawn? It is still not too late to kill this crabgrass before it begins to make seed for next year. Think of this...every crabgrass plant in your lawn now can make up to 2000 seeds for next year--and that could be a real problem.

Spray your lawn with either Bayer Advanced Crabgrass Killer for your lawn or Bonide Weed Beater Plus Crabgrass and Broadleaf Weed Killer as soon as possible. I would give the lawn a second application 7 to 10 days later just to be sure that you hit every plant with the first application. Also, some of the plants are getting large now so a second application will help knock them out faster before they have a chance to make seed this month.

If you see that the plants are making seed, be sure to use a lawn mower that has a bagger attachment on it. If yours does not have a bag attachment, borrow one from a friend or neighbor or when you mow the grass you will cut the seed pods and blow them all over the yard, spreading the problem even more. Also never put crabgrass seeds in your compost pile or your compost will contain seed and your gardens will now have problems next year; send the grass clippings to the dump or dispose of them far from your lawn and garden. Starts working on your crabgrass problem now; don't wait until next year!

#8 At the end of the month, start thinking of reseeding your lawn to fill in those thin spots or even planting a new lawn from scratch. Fall is the best time of the year to do this because the soil is warm and the seed will germinate faster. Any weeds that develop will be killed off by the frost and cold weather. Fall also bring us additional rainfall, making it easier for us to keep the seed moist at all times for better germination.

Visit your local garden center for help to select the best seed for your area. Know the amount of sunshine the lawn will receive, like morning sun only or late-in-the-day sun only--or even all day sunshine. Measure your area to be planted and, when starting from scratch, always double the amount of seed that you will need, as the extra cost is less than planting new grass seed if you have poor germination.

In the fall AVOID annual grass seed, as this seed will die during the winter and you will have to reseed next spring. Annual seed means one year, like petunias or tomatoes, that have to be planted every year, so stay away from this seed blend and always choose perennial seed blends that will survive the winter months ahead of us. Tell the sales person what your soil is like and how deep the loam is where you're planting the seed. If you want a lawn for the kids to play baseball and football on, let them know. Do you water your lawn during the heat and drought of summer? Let them know. Do you want the perfect lawn? Let them know. Do you have several large Oaks, maples, or pines where your lawn is to be? Let them know.

The best lawn mixtures come from proven grass seed companies like Jonathan Green and Bonide Lawn and Garden, so stay away from bargain seed blends and big box stores who have no one to help you select the right seed for your growing conditions. Use a seed starter fertilizer for faster germination and quicker development of the plant and its roots before winter arrives. If you have moss, also apply Turf Turbo from Bonide to make your soil sweeter and help keep moss from developing in your lawn. These two products will give you results in just a week or two, compared to the old fashioned lime--that will take 6 months or more to do the same work. One bag of lime that weighs 50 pounds will cover 1000 sq. ft. and cost 2 to 3 dollars a bag, while the new products weigh 40 pounds per bag and cover 5000 sq. ft.--they cost half the price and a have lot less weight to be handled by you.

#9 Continue spraying your fruit trees until you're ready to harvest, because with all the wet weather we are having, disease can still be a problem. Every other week is recommended at this time of the year to keep fruit clean of fungus and insect damage. Use the Bonide Fruit Tree Spray that will contain both insect and Disease control or Organocide Organic fruit tree spray called Plant Doctor.

Keep an eye open for potential problems with deer feeding on your fruit trees. If you see deer beginning to feed on your fruit, hang a packet of Shake-Away Deer repellent on each fruit tree. The product is made up of a granular coyote urine and it will keep them away as the coyote is their natural predator. This is a new product and is used by commercial fruit growers and available at your local garden center.

#10 Start to prepare your house plants that have been outside all summer long for the trip back inside. Also if you're going to bring in herbs from your garden, you may want to start digging them up now and potting them so they can adapt to the move indoors. Keep them in the shade for a few days until they adjust to their new home.

Check your plants carefully for insects so you don't bring them inside for the winter. I always spray them with horticultural oil just in case there is something hiding on the plant. Oil is all-natural and will kill the adult, young and eggs on your plants--all at the same time, so you won't have problems later. The oil spray will also shine up the foliage, making the plant look like new. If the plants need to be repotted, now is the time to do it--while you're not rushing to get them in before a frost is predicted.

I also fertilize all the house plants before bringing them inside with Dynamite time released fertilizer; this plant food will last most of the winter without additional plant food. The secret to preventing leaf drop is to get the plants indoors about the time that the kids go back to school and the windows are still open. This way they can adapt to the change gradually before you close the windows and turn on the heat in the house that will dry up the humidity around the foliage. If you adjust the climate gradually, your plants will adjust more easily and will grow better for you during the winter months. If you have houseplants that have grown too large for your home, call your schools, the library, or even the town hall and I am sure you will find a good home for them.

I found an answer for a big problem of house plants with fungus gnats in the soil. These are small fly-like insects that come out of the soil when you water your plants. They live in soil rich in organic matter and feed on the roots of the plant. If you see this pest in your houseplants, sprinkle some Summit Chemical Mosquito Bits in the soil and water your plants. This is an organic insecticide that kills mosquitoes and it will also kill fungus gnats in the soil of your potted house plants. In the past, the only product that worked was Diazinon, which is off the market now. But Mosquito Bits will do a great job for you and prevent the problem from spreading from plant to plant. Put this information in the back of your head for future problems!
 
Botanical Gardens | Flowers, Orchid, Roses
Botanical Gardens - Flowers, Orchid, Roses

Labor Day weekend is just 2 weeks away now, and this is the best time of the year to rebuild your existing lawn or start a new lawn from seed. First of all, let me tell you why the fall is the best time to rebuild the lawn or plant a new lawn from seed. At this time of the year, the soil is warm and that will help the seed to germinate faster and better than in the spring time, when the soil is cold and wet. Traditionally, the fall season will bring us more rainfall, making it easier for us to keep the soil moist so the seed will germinate better. In the fall, few weeds will germinate to compete with the young grass plants for water, fertilizer, and sunshine.

There is less stress to the new plant that is germinating, as the heat of summer is over. Morning dew will add moisture to the soil, helping with your watering. Also, in the fall you have fewer projects to work on compared to the springtime, when all the gardens need to be planted. As the weather cools off in October, any weeds that did germinate will be killed by the cold weather but the grass will continue to grow until the ground actually freezes. So enjoy the next two weekends at the beach or at the golf course and then prepare to get back on your lawn and make it green and thick again. A thick lawn in the fall means fewer weeds in the springtime and less work for you.

For rebuilding your existing lawn, begin by walking over your lawn and examining what it looks like when you're on top of it--not just looking at it from the driveway. A close inspection will determine what needs to be done to bring it back to its original (or a better) growing condition. It may be that all the grass needs is just a good feeding, a feeding with a broadleaf weed killer or a bit of seeding in patches here and there to fill in the dead spots caused by summer heat and lack of watering.

You may find moss growing in patches, especially in shaded areas of your lawn and that will be an easy fix with an application of granular lime this fall and again in the spring at the rate of 50 pounds per 1000 sq. ft. If the moss is as thick as a carpet, you will have to remove it from the lawn before you plant new grass seed this fall. If the moss is visible and you're not planning to reseed this fall, use the lime products to change the acidity level in the soil and slowly discourage the moss from growing. You can also kill the moss that is growing with Lilly Miller's Moss -Out without hurting your existing lawn.

If you have a lot of moss growing in the shade or even in the sun, it may be the results of having clay in your soil, preventing proper drainage during the growing season--especially in the spring or during rainy periods. If you have a clay type soil in your lawn, the clay will prevent the grass from filling in properly due to poor drainage, and moss will thrive. This is easily corrected with the use of Liquid Gypsum soil conditioner made by Soil Logic and found at most garden centers. Apply the product spring and fall and in a year or two your grass will thicker and moss problems will be minimal.

If you find that broadleaf weeds are a problem in the lawn, you will have to decide if it's better to kill the weeds this fall and reseed in the spring or live with the weeds, reseed now and kill the weeds in the spring. You will not be able to do both this fall; you will have to decide to either kill the weeds and fertilize the existing grass or reseed the lawn and deal with the weed in the spring time. If you only have a few weeds I would reseed this fall and deal with the weeds in the spring with a weed and feed product when the dandelions begin to flower in early May.

If you look at your lawn right now and it's covered with crabgrass and broad leaf weeds and there is more crabgrass and weeds than good grass, you will have to consider planting your lawn from scratch. With today's technology it will be much easier for you than it was just 10 years ago but you will have to act now! Begin by spraying your entire lawn with  Killzall or KleenUp this weekend. This will kill everything, including the good grasses, but it will give you a good base to start a new lawn. In two weeks, your old lawn is all dead and the weed killer you applied is gone, so you must do this NOW!

In the olden days you would have to rototill the lawn, rake up the grass and rocks, and start all over, leveling the lawn and rolling the ground until firm and raking again to fill in low spots in the soil before planting--that's a lot of work. Today with the weed killers I suggested you use, all you have to do is spray the lawn and in two weeks everything is dead and the weed killers I suggested have dissipated, so you can plant directly in the weed-free soil without hurting the new seed. The dead plants on top of the soil become a wonderful mulch, preventing soil erosion problems; they will help hold moisture in the soil and keep birds from eating the seed you will be planting.

In the olden days you spread the seed, fertilizer, and lime and then raked the products into the soil to cover the seed and then rolled the yard again to make sure the seed was firmly in place. Today you will rent a machine call a "Seed Slicer" at any power equipment rental center. This machine will cut small trenches in the soil, 1/8 to 1/4 inches deep, right through the dead grass and weeds; it will place the seed in these trenches where it will be in contact with the soil for better germination. Run the machine north to south and then east to west to make a crisscross seed pattern...and you're done. The machine will move all by itself; all you have to do is to steer and keep the machine running straight. When your seed is in place, run your fertilizer spreader across the yard with the lime product and then the fertilizer. This new method of seeding will save you HOURS of time and labor when planting a new lawn.

Now, when you plant this new lawn use a special fertilizer called Starter Fertilizer for New Seeding. It is specially designed to stimulate the new roots that are developing from the seed and encourage them to grow faster than normal so the grass plant becomes established faster in your soil. This fertilizer encourages the roots to form faster than the foliage, so the plant can grow on its own sooner with less help from you. I would encourage you to use this fertilizer when planting and again in 4 to 6 weeks to encourage a big root system before winter sets in; big roots on a new plant means less winter damage and a stronger plant when spring arrives. Did you know that 90% of the grass plant is ROOTS?

When I first started to work in the landscaping business, I was told by a wise man that using more seed than recommended on the package insured success because the major expense was labor to do the job properly. If spending an extra $50.00 on seed for $1000.00 lawn installation would insure that the customer was happy and the grass came in extra thick, it was well worth the expense. It's Much better than going back to the home owner and adding additional seed because it did not come up thick enough. Do it right the first time and avoid problems later, buy good seed and stay away from fast-growing annual grass seed or cheap seed.

Always use perennial grass seed; you do not want to do this all over again next year!!! The better the seed is, the better your lawn will be--and most of us want that lawn to last forever, right? Ask for help when selecting the seed for your lawn; know what your growing conditions are like--the amount of sun your lawns will receive, how thick your topsoil is, are you going to water it once it is established and are you going to fertilize it. Did you know that over 60% of all homeowners feed their lawn only once a year or do not feed it at all and wonder why it's full of weeds? Weeds do better with neglect than grass does and that is why weeds come into your lawn, because their job is to protect the soil from your neglect--it's that simple.

Next week I will tell you about the different types of seed and how to select the right seed blend for your property. Just remember that if the air temperature is 100 degrees, your asphalt driveway is 100 degrees, but your lawn is only 75 degrees. Which temperature would you like around your house during the heat of summer?

The Best Organic Fertilizers:
Natural-Alternative                    www.Natural-Alternative.com
Milorganite                                 www.Milorganite.com
Espoma Organics                      www.Espoma.com

The Best Manmade Fertilizer:
Pro Trust Turf Products            www.ProTrustProducts.com
Bonide Lawn and Garden          www.Bonide.com
Fertilome Lawn and Garden       www.Fertilome.com

The Best Grass seed Blends:
Pearls Premium low Maintenance Blends   www.PearlsPremium.com
Bonide Lawn and Garden                            www.Bonide.com

The Best Soil Conditioners like Fast acting Lime and Garden Gypsum:
Espoma Organics                                         www.Espoma.com
Bonide Lawn and Garden                             www.Bonide.com




"After the fine exercise in the garden, I have an appetite like a 12-year-old 
and have no sleepless nights"

Jim G Brown
Relaxing Music with best Orchids
Relaxing Music with best Orchids

 

 

Fight Back against disease carrying mosquitoes!



Mosquitoes are bloodsucking, disease-spreading pest.  Not only are mosquito bites itchy and painful but mosquitoes spread some of the world's deadliest and most debilitating diseases including West Nile virus, malaria, chikungunya, and dengue fever.
According to mosquito experts, it is impossible to live in a complete mosquito-free environment.  Where ever there is moisture there will be mosquitoes, even in time of drought.  But you can reduce your chances of getting bitten by mosquito's pest by being "Mosquito Smart" and reducing places where mosquitoes can breed.

It does not take a lot of water to become a mosquito breeding area.  Sometime just a capful of water is all it takes to breed mosquitoes.  Mosquito expert Jonathan Cohen from Summit Responsible Solutions said it is up to the home owner to be vigilant in eliminating places where water can collect and stand in their yards and gardens.

To reduce mosquito breeding grounds, dispose of canes, plastic containers, old tires, and other items that can hold water.  Over turn your wheelbarrow, empty the children pool when not in use.  Clean clogged roof gutters, which can become a prime breeding site for mosquitoes.  Also empty saucers holding flower pots cover self-watering pot openings and make sure your rain barrel is also sealed shut so they will not breed in them.  Pet water dishes should be changed every day if left outside or mosquitoes will breed in the dish.  Bird bath should be changed every other day during the spring to fall to prevent breeding and use Mosquito bites with the fresh water

Now to prevent mosquitoes from breeding in fish ponds, bird baths, animal watering troughs, gutter, tree holes, and rain barrels use a mosquito control product that contains BTI to kill the mosquito larvae.  BTI is a bacterium that will naturally kill the larvae before it can grow up and become a flying, biting disease-spreading adult.  Even though BTI is deadly to mosquitoes larvae, it is harmless to people, pets, fish, birds, wildlife, and beneficial insects. 

BTI comes in a donut shaped ring call a Mosquito Dunk that when applied to water sources prevents problems with this pest and is the number one selling "Biological control product",  It will control and kill mosquitoes larvae for up to 30 days.  For small areas use Mosquito Bits for the same results.

BTI vs Chemicals to control mosquitos: BTI is safe for every living creature on the planet except for mosquitoes but chemicals are selective and can kill even pollinators like Bees.  Also scientific studies show that insects develop a resistance to chemical insecticide which will make chemicals less effective over time.

Here are some fun facts about mosquitoes and you.

#1 Only female mosquitoes bite!  Female mosquitoes require a meal of blood in order to develop eggs to make more little mosquitoes.

#2 When the mosquito bites you, she injects a bit of saliva that slows coagulation so your blood flows freely.  It's your body allergic reaction to the mosquito saliva that causes the pesky welt and the bothersome itching.

#3 There are 2,700 species of mosquitoes in the world, but only 176 in the USA.

#4 Mosquitoes fly an estimated 1.o to 1.5 miles per hour.

#5 Mosquitoes use sight, the heat given off by warm bodies and chemical signs to find you and animal to bite.

#6 WOMEN are usually more attracted to mosquitoes than men of the difference in hormones produced by the sexes

#7 Blondes tend to be more attracted to mosquitoes than brunettes.

#8 Smelly feet are attractive to mosquitoes. So is Limburger cheese.

#9 People wearing dark colored clothing are more attracted to mosquitoes and so is cologne, or perfume .

#10 People drinking alcohol after dark are more attracted to mosquitoes.

#11 Sporting events at night under the lights like Football are a favorite place for mosquitoes.

#12 Mosquito plant called "scented geranium Citronella" is not effective unless you sit in the middle of them

#13 Use an insect spray when you're outside especially from sunset until you come in for the night.  Spray all your body and clothing.  Example: several years ago I went to a 4th of July fireworks show and I sat in a woven plastic strap chair.  After the show I started scratching and where I sat in the chair the mosquitoes had a feed.  I had 42 mosquito bites where I did not spray and that was the back of my shorts, my butt it was a long night of itching, so beware.

For more information visit your local Garden Center, Feed and Grain store or Hardware store for Mosquito Bits and Mosquito Dunks.  Go to www.SummitResponsibleSolutions.com  for more information about mosquitoes and how to control them.  And just because summer is coming to an end do not think that the mosquito season is over, it last until our "First Frost"!  You have been warned!!!


Fresh Georgia Peach Pie


Even if you're not from Georgia, this is a wonderful tasting pie that is filled with Southern Summer Flavor with the fruit that made Georgia famous for the Peaches it grows. In Georgia, Peach pie is as much part of their culture as apple pie is in New England in the fall. As Mikey, he will tell you "try it you will like it."

Ingredients:
2 -10- inch unbaked pie crust, from scratch or pre made from Pillsbury.

2 and a half pounds of fresh picked ripe peaches, peeled, cut in half and remove the stone from the center. Cut up into one inch chunks and put into a bowl, set aside.

3 tablespoons of cornstarch

1 cup granulated sugar, divided

3 tablespoons of cold water

3 eggs

1/3 cup of butter milk

cup of melted butter

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract, Not Imitation!

Directions:
1} Preheat oven to 400 degrees

2} Press the bottom crust into your 9 to 10 inch pie plate

3} Place the Peaches in a large mixing bowl and set aside

4} Mix the cornstarch and 3 tablespoons of sugar in a medium mixing bowl. Stir in the cold water until smooth. Stir in the remaining sugar, eggs, and buttermilk and mix well. Stir in the melted butter and vanilla extract. Now pour the mixture over your cut up peaches and blend until the peaches are well coated with the mixture. 

5} Pour the filling into the unbaked pie crust, cover with a second pie crust for the top of the pie. Seal the top crust and flute the edges of the pie pan and remove any extra crust. Cut several slits on top of the pie to vent steam or make a "Happy Face"

6} Glaze by brushing the top of the pie with melted butter and sprinkle with sugar.

7} Bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until the filling in the center of the pie is bubbly and peaches have softened. Also your crust should be golden brown. Cool at room temperature and refrigerate until cold.

8} The pie will serve 8 so cut your pieces and add a large scoop of Vanilla Ice Cream. A Mint Julip would also go well with this pie on a warm summer night. Enjoy!


What do you think Walter Reeves?
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Garden Journal

        Garden Journal - A garden is a friend you can visit any time. Gardens require planning and cultivation, yielding beauty and joy. This garden journal helps make planning and organizing easy. This book makes a great gift for gardeners, family, friends, birthdays, Christmas, new home or as a self purchase.

 

Cover holds a 5 x7 or 4x6 photo, Heavy-duty D-ring binder

1. 8 tabbed sections
2. 5 garden details sections with pockets for seeds, tags....
3. Weather records page
4. 6 three year journal pages
5. Insect & diseases page - 3 project pages
6. 3 annual checklist pages
7. Plant wish list page
8. 2 large pocket pages
9. Sheet of garden labels
10. 5 garden detail sheets
11. 5 graph paper pages for layouts
12. 5 photo pages holds - 4- 4x6 photos in landscape or portrait format

Journal, Planning, Inspirations. 

 To Order call 207-590-4887

Regular price $34.95  Special Price $31.95!  special!        Supplies are now limited!

 

*How to print article's from our Newsletter -  Constant contact does not allow us to print articles one at a time
 

Do not use the "Print" icon unless you want to print the whole web page or email. Instead, follow the next steps.

Select the text you want on a web page where there is a story, paragraph, or a few lines that you want to print. Left-click on the mouse at the beginning and drag across to the end of the text you want and release. While the text is selected (highlighted), go to the top menu line and click "File" / "Print", in the print window that shows.  click on "Selection," and then click the OK or Print button. Some printers need you to select apply .

Do the same for emails. If you want to print a joke or article that you receive, do not click the Print icon. Select the text as above and use the "File" / "Print" menu and click "Selection", click OK or "Print".

Try another way to do a print job for text only. This involves selecting the text you want as above; then right click, copy and right click, paste to a word processor or even Wordpad (located in "Start" / "Programs" / "Accessories" / "Wordpad") and print from there. This method will produce a copy with no extra information. 



 
  
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