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Welcome to the Paul Parent Garden Club 2014 Newsletter
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Are you picking the right pumpkin?



The ancient Greeks and early Europeans call the early pumpkin "pepon," which means large melon. They were not like the rounded orange pumpkin of today but more crooked-neck, odd shaped or more like winter squash in shape and not bright orange but a mixture of different colors. Today's pumpkin originated in America; it was hybridized by our farmers to what we have today as an orange, round-shaped vegetable.

The name pumpkin came from America. Christopher Columbus brought seeds from this funny looking vegetable that the Native Americans gave him back to Europe, where it was used to feed animals during the winter months but never eaten by people. Little did they know how nutritious this amazing vegetable would be in their diet when food got scarce. Pumpkins are not used as decoration in Europe like here in America; they are grown as a food crop for animals.

Many years ago while I was working at a nursery, a tour bus pulled into where I worked and tourists from Holland poured out of the bus with cameras to take pictures of the display we had made. They could not believe how many pumpkins we had and what people did with them. They thought pumpkins were for animals and loved the idea of using them for decoration around the house during the fall.

The first Native Americans used pumpkins as a food source and cooked them in numerous ways from roasted, baked, boiled, and even dried for flour. They ate the seeds and used the flowers in soups and stews but the real benefit of the pumpkin was its ability to be dry and stored for late use when food became scarce during the winter months. Some pumpkins shells could be dried and used as bowls or storage containers to hold grain, beans and seeds.

The Native American Indian introduced the pumpkin to the Pilgrims; it is documented that it was served at the second Thanksgiving Celebration. The pumpkins were an important food source because they stored well, which meant a nutritional food source during the winter months for them. It is also documented that without the pumpkin many of the Pilgrims would have died from starvation.

As time progressed and food became more plentiful, the Pilgrims also used the pumpkin to make pumpkin BEER by fermenting a combination of persimmons, hops, maple sugar and pumpkins to make the early colonial beer. Man does not only live on pumpkin pie, he needs something to help wash it down with while watching "Pilgrim Football."

Now let me tell you about the Jack-o'-lantern and Halloween. The early Jack-o'-lanterns were carved from large potatoes in Ireland and large turnips in Scotland for their Celtic celebrations. The British used large beets, and to illuminate them used a lump of coal lit on fire and placed inside the hollowed vegetable. When European settlers arrived in America, they found that the pumpkin was easier to carve and much better suited to being a Jack-o'-lantern. The Halloween celebration in America with Jack-o'-lanterns was first celebrated in the late 1800's as a means to celebrate the fall harvest, with community and neighborhood parties.

Now let me tell you how to grow the "great American pumpkin" in your garden. Begin with a garden located in FULL sun all day long. Pumpkins are tender plants and will not tolerate a frost, so plant them when the season is ready and frost-free. The seeds will germinate better in warm soil, so don't rush to plant the seed until the ground has warmed up with the help of the spring sun. You can start seedlings indoors in pots 2 weeks earlier than outside to get a jump on the season. Just watch the weather when planting your seedlings grown indoors and moving them to the garden--and always be ready to cover them if frost is predicted. Don't rush the planting season, as Halloween is a long way off.

Your soil should be well drained and fertile with lots of organic matter like animal manure, compost or peat moss. The Pilgrims used seaweed and herring to help condition their soil before planting. If the soil is sandy, add Soil Moist Granules to help hold moisture in the soil. The best soil should have a pH of 6.0 to 7.0 and lime will be needed in most areas in the Northeast, but test your soil before planting. Try to stay away from areas where vine crops like cucumbers, melons and squash grew during the past 2 years.

Water is also very important when growing pumpkins. Your plants will require 2 to 4 inches of water per week, depending on your soil type. Soil Moist Granules are very helpful to help hold moisture in sandy soils along with a lot of organic matter. Always water in the morning and NEVER at night or your wet leaves will trap fungus spores, and diseases like powdery mildew will hurt your leaves, limiting the production of pumpkins.

How much space will you need to grow pumpkins in your garden? The average vine can grow 30 to 40 feet long, so if space is limited, plant seedlings or seeds on the side of the garden and let the vine run on your lawn. Spacing required is 50 to 100 sq. ft. per hill, so plant 5 seeds per hill of soil and thin to the 2 to 3 best when the plants begin to develop and become well established. Space hills 5 to 6 feet apart and 10 to 15 feet between rows of hills.

Weeding is a big factor when growing pumpkins and the garden should be weed-free at all times. When weeding, keep your garden weeder shallow in the soil as the roots of pumpkins stay close to the surface and deep weeding will hurt the roots. Landscape fabrics, plastic mulches or weed-free straw will save you a lot of time and help the roots develop without interference. Pumpkins love loose soil, so try to keep off the areas where they are growing to prevent soil compaction.

Insect problems can develop on the plant but they can be easily controlled with recommended insecticides when applied late in the day or early evening while the flowers are closed and the bees are not present in the garden. Check with your local Garden Center for recommended product depending on your specific problem. Bees are very important for pumpkins, so be careful when applying insecticide to the garden. Stay away from SEVIN insecticide; it is the WORST product and very deadly to all types of bees.

Harvesting pumpkins is simple--when the pumpkin is hard and deep solid orange in color it's ready to pick! The vines are usually dying at this time but if the pumpkin has not changed color and the vine begins to die, pick them from the garden green and place them in a warm dry sheltered area until they color up. Always cut the pumpkins from the vine with pruners or a sharp knife. Pulling the stem from the vine will result in a broken stem, and pumpkins without stems do not keep well and will rot quickly. Always handle large pumpkins from underneath, never from the stem, to prevent breakage.

When you select a pumpkin always choose one without spots on it, soft areas, or cuts in the skin. The harder the skin the longer it will keep for you--and it must have a stem attached firmly to the top of the pumpkin. Thick walls keep better than thin lightweight pumpkins. Enjoy!  



Bobby Pickett
Bobby Pickett "Monster Mash"


Fall Clean Up-Always a family project


You have four weekends to finish putting the garden to bed for the year, because Daylight Saving Time kicks in on November 2. When the changes kick in, it will be dark by 5:00 PM, so let's get moving while we still have daylight to work with. It may sound like a lot of time, but let's go over the list of things that have to be done in the next four weeks.

Let's start with the vegetable garden and get all the plants pulled out and the soil raked and cleaned. This will remove some of the potential problems for next year, because all insects and diseases have left insect eggs and disease spores in the garden to continue the cycle of life in your garden. By cleaning the garden now, you should have fewer problems next season. By placing this plant material in your compost pile, you should have plenty of recycled organic matter to add back to your soil in June.

Conditioning the soil will make a big difference for next year garden if you do one of the following things. If you live near the seashore, go to the beach, collect seaweed after a big storm, and cover your garden with it. Most years I will add 3 to 6 inches of seaweed over the garden and till it under in early April. Seaweed is like adding peat moss to your garden but seaweed is full of the natural fertilizers, minerals and nutrients that will improve the quality of your soil and help your plants to grow better.

Rake your fallen leaves and pine needles into the garden and chop them up with your lawn mower. Never put them into trash bags and dispose of them, recycle them into your garden and turn them into wonderful soil conditioners. If you live far from the ocean and have no source of leaves, go to your local garden center, nursery or feed and grain store and purchase winter rye seed. Winter rye will grow a root system up to a mile long in your garden, plus provide wonderful shiny green foliage this fall.

In the spring, as soon as the ground thaws, it will continue growing--reaching 18 inches by late April. Then, mow the grass down with your weed whacker, and then rototill everything together into the soil. The foliage of the winter rye and the root system is considered a green manure crop and it will help to condition your soil. This will help sandy soil hold more moisture during the summer months and it will also help to break apart clay-type soils to provide better root growth by plants.

If you live in an area where the soil is acidic, now is the time to add limestone to the gardens to help sweeten the soil. If you see moss growing in your lawn, if you have pine, maples or oaks growing in your yard, or if your plants never seem to have real green foliage and lack vigor, it's time to add limestone to the garden soil. If you have a wood stove or fireplace and you burn wood products, save the ash and spread it over your garden when you clean it for the same results. NEVER burn pressure-treated lumber inside your home and NEVER use that wood ash either in your vegetable garden because of the wood preservatives in it. Apply limestone at the rate of 50 pounds per 500 sq. ft. of garden and wood ash at one 5-gallon bucket per 500 sq. ft. of garden.

Either of the products should be added to annual, perennial and rose gardens to help them grow and flower better. If you have flowering shrubs and trees that are not productive but mature, the acidic soil could be preventing the plant from flowering. Clematis vines and lilacs love lime and should be treated every year in the fall. Even rhododendrons, azaleas and hollies can grow better with an application every 3 to 4 years where acidic soil is common. If you're feeding them and they still won't flower in your yard, try applying lime or wood ash around them now. The only exceptions are blueberry plants and if you want to keep your blue hydrangea blue--keep these products away from them or the blueberries will have fewer berries and your blue hydrangea will turn pink.

In the perennial garden, cut back to the ground all perennials that turn yellow and brown and remove the foliage to the compost pile or Compost Tumbler. Rake the garden clean, apply lime products, and fertilize the garden at half the recommended rate with organic Flower Tone plant food. If you have the time, add one inch of compost or bark mulch on the garden to help protect the roots of the plant during the winter months, it will be one thing less to do in the springtime. If you have open areas in the perennial garden, how about planting some spring flowering bulbs for early color in your garden?

In the rose garden, all you have to do in rake it clean and pull all the weeds growing there. Removing the leaves with black spots on them from around the plant helps to prevent fungus problems next year because you are remove dormant disease spores from the old leaves that will infect next year's new foliage. You can also lime the garden but do not apply fertilizer EVER after September 1, or you could promote new growth with the nice days we will receive in the next few weeks. You want your plants to begin to harden off or become tough for the winter and go dormant, that way the branches become woody and are better able to fight off the damaging winds of winter.

In addition, DO NOT prune your rose plants at this time of the year; ALWAYS prune in the spring, NEVER in the fall. Open cuts on the stem will allow moisture to escape during the winter months and the rose stems will dry up and die. If your roses are finished flowering, it's also time to build a mound of soil or bark mulch around the base of the plant to protect the graft of the plant for the winter. Make your mound 12 to 15 inches high and just as wide and, believe me, your plants will survive the winter much better if you live in a cold climate. Around Thanksgiving, spray all exposed branches with Wilt- Pruf or Wilt Stop to help the plant retain moisture in the stems in windy areas.

If you have fruit trees or flowering crabapples trees, be sure to rake all the fallen foliage from around them to remove potential disease spores left on the foliage for next year. When all the foliage is off the trees, spray them with All Season oil and liquid Copper spray to kill overwintering insect eggs and disease spores; repeat in late March or early April. These two sprays will make a big difference in the quality of your plants for next season.

If these trees are new and young, be sure to stake them down for the winter months with a staking kit available at your local Garden Center. This will prevent damage to the roots caused by winter winds and heavy snow bending the tree over and breaking. Also, if you live near a wooded area or an area with much tall grass, be sure to wrap the trunk of the trees with hardware cloth wire to prevent mouse, rabbit and porcupine damage over the winter. Push the wire collar into the ground a couple of inches and have the wire reach the first branches.

If you have new strawberries in your garden, you will not believe the difference with the plants for next year if you spread an inch or two of garden STRAW, not hay over your plants for the winter. Great protection for the plants, it will encourage new runners to develop faster and fruit will form faster and grow larger. For blueberries use 2 inches of straw, pine needles or bark mulch for root protection and feed them at half rate with Holly Tone or Dr. Earth evergreen fertilizer. Because these plants love acid soil, add aluminum sulfate plant food to acidify the soil to help make them more productive next year. Aluminum sulfate is also used to keep or intensify the blue color on your hydrangeas, and a fall application will make those flowers deep blue for next summer.

If you have raspberries or blackberries in your garden, be sure to remove the canes or branches that made fruit this year, as they will not fruit next year, just make foliage. By removing the old canes, you will encourage much new growth for next year that will be productive. Also, add 2 inches of straw, pine needles or bark mulch to protect the roots and help keep out weeds.

Rhubarb should be cleaned of all old foliage. Add a couple inches of compost around the plant, that's all. Asparagus should be all cut down to the ground when the foliage turns yellow to brown. If the fern-like foliage has small BB-shaped fruit on it, be sure to pull them off and spread them on the ground to start new plants next spring. Asparagus loves to be fertilized in the fall with cow or chicken manure fertilizer--use 50 lbs. of composted cow manure for every 10 feet of row or 10 lbs. of dehydrated manure. If you're using chicken manure and it's fresh. Use 25 lbs. per 10 feet of row or 5 lbs. of dehydrated.

Hydrangeas need special care also and here is what to do this fall. The white-flowering varieties should be cleaned of all their flowers as soon as they turn brown. If the flowers stay on the plant during the winter and you get an ice storm or heavy wet snow, the flower will hold the Ice and snow, causing the branch to break with the weight. I have seen many beautiful plants, especially the tree form, destroyed this way. White varieties can be pruned in the spring or fall to control size and to create a tree shape of the plant. Fertilize in the spring, not the fall. New hybrids are best pruned in the early spring before the new growth has developed and again in June to remove dead branches from the plant. Cutting back existing branches in half will help develop stronger stems with many side shoots off of them.

The blue or pinks should also be cleaned of flowers for the same reason but only remove the flower on both types, never cut back the plant during the fall. Prune only in the spring to prevent winter dieback when the winters have little to no snow cover. Keep limestone away from the plant or it will turn pink due to acidity levels in the soil. New varieties do not need winter protection, but I always spray my plants with Wilt-Pruf around Thanksgiving just in case we have a cold winter and little snow cover to protect them. If you have new plants, build a mound of bark mulch around the base of the plant 12 inches high by 12 inches wide for the first year to help give them extra time to get established in your garden.

If you have any containerized plants such as roses, needle evergreens or perennials, be sure to move them under cover for winter. An unheated garage, tool shed, or under a tall deck will do well and help prevent the container from filling with ice and killing the roots during the winter. If this is not possible, place the containers up against a solid structure like your house or garage for protection from the wind and weather. Always avoid placement where water runs off the roof and never cover the plant with plastic bags--burlap bags will work well as long as the top is open to the air and a bit of sunlight in. Spray evergreens with Wilt Pruf around Thanksgiving for added protection. Have fun!!! Enjoy!




Fall house plant care

Many of us still have houseplants on our deck, patio and even in the garden at this time of the year, and it's time now to begin the process of bringing them inside for the winter or putting them in the basement where it's frost-free and they can enjoy a nice cool winter of dormancy. Follow these simple rules and your plants will acclimate themselves better to the move indoors.

The first thing to remember is that your plants will acclimate to the changes better if they can get into the house before the heat is turned on and the storm windows are put into place. Right now your plants are getting morning dew that they love as it covers the plant and encourages new growth and flower bud production for our winter-flowering plants. Plants love lots of daylight and even direct sun to enjoy, and they want good air movement to keep down possible fungus problems. But the weather is beginning to cool off and that could cause a chilling effect that could damage plants with delicate foliage or those forming buds on the plant.

Here is what you need to do to prepare the plant for the move indoors. Begin by washing the container with a mild bleach, soap and water bath. This will destroy potential insect eggs or fungus spores placed on the container because of the temperature change. If the pot is coming inside and it has a matching saucer, be sure to wash that as well. Now check the foliage and the branches of the plant for possible insects. If you find visible insects, webbing or small hard bumps on the stems or leaves of the plant and if the foliage feels sticky, you have potential problems that must be cared for before the plant comes back into the house. Wash the foliage where you see the problem with a soft cloth that is soaked in a warm water and Dawn dish soap. Dawn is the best foliage cleaner on the market today and with a bit of pressure you can easily remove the hard spots or bumps living on the plant called "scale."

This cleaning will remove the webbing that most likely contains red spider mites--a potential BIG problem if brought inside your home, because they will easily jump onto other plants already in your house. Allow the soapy water mix to set on the foliage for 15 to 30 minutes after you have removed any noticeable problems--and be sure to get the mixture in all the crevices on the stems of the plant and on every leaf and branch. Then spray the soapy mixture off the plant and you're almost ready for the move indoors. One last thing to do--if you found problems or not--let's take no chances this fall of bringing in any stowaways. If you're moving many plants indoors I would do the following.

First treat the soil with a granular insecticide called "Systemic Granules Insect Control" that, when added to the soil, will move inside the plant to protect it from future problems for up to eight weeks (do not use on edible plants). The product is available at most garden centers and produced by Bonide Lawn and Garden. This product will kill aphids, whiteflies, leaf miners, mealy bugs, scale, and mites. Now, if you had a real problem with the plant, I would also spray the plant with an All Season Oil after washing the plant. This is a superior type of paraffinic oil that is safe for all types of plants indoors or outside and smothers insect and eggs on the plant before they have a chance to create a problem.

Now bring the plant indoors and fertilize it with a good houseplant fertilizer like Dr. Earth plant food fertilizer once it is placed near a window for the winter. During the fall and winter months you should cut back your fertilizing to half the normal amount, as the plants are growing much more slowly, due to the short day length and decrease in the intensity of the sunshine. Watering demand will also decrease during the winter, so what I do is dig into the soil with my finger and feel for moisture. Water houseplants according to their needs--and not because Saturday is your watering day. Large tropical foliage plants will definitely need less water during the winter months, especially if your home is kept cool (60 to 65 degrees) or the weather becomes cloudy and less sunshine is available to the plant. What plants do love during the fall and winter months indoors is misting of the foliage to add humidity around the foliage of the plant, like a greenhouse atmosphere, and that moisture will also help you keep breathing better with higher humidity in your plant room.

Keep plants away from drafty windows and doors that open and close often to prevent chilling the foliage and flowers on the plant. Place plants that require the most amount of sunshine in windows facing south or southwest, while plants that require less light can go to east or north facing windows.

Now, another thing to consider is heat source and types of heat for your plants. Because most plants like moisture in the air (humidity) try to keep plants away from heat sources like wood or pellet stoves, forced hot air vents and don't place them in front of heating registers. Just as an example, ficus and fern plants will drop many leaves if the room is to dry for them, while yucca and palm plants will do real well. Flowering plants like poinsettia, Christmas cactus, gardenias and flowering bulb plants do not like homes with dry heat, and most of the time they will have short flowering periods or drop many or all of their flower buds before the buds have a chance to open. If your home has one these types of heat, keep plants away from heating vents and out of the room where your stove is present. Plants will do better on a window sill, where temperatures are cooler, as long as the window is not drafty. Christmas cactus and gardenias love to be misted with a good squirt of water on the plant and especially on the flower buds as they form to keep them actively productive.

Plants that spend the winter in your cool basement or in your crawl space under the house should go inside with a good watering but no fertilizer. Plants like angel trumpet, dipladenia, mandevilla, and fig trees can do down to the basement in early October--even if they have foliage on them. The foliage will yellow and fall from the plant--and that is OK; the plant is going dormant and will be resting for the winter. Keep the plants on the cold floor and away from heat source like your furnace, the cooler the better but above freezing. If the soil does get real dry during the winter it is OK to add a bit of water to the pot but do not soak the root ball or the plant will wake up and begin to grow with yellow foliage, due to no sunlight in the basement.

Plants like gardenias, Christmas cactus, and florist azaleas need to be kept on the cool side or they will flower early, so keep them in a north facing window with good light but no heat from the day's sunlight coming through your windows. Room temperatures of 50 to 60 degrees are best to keep the flowers on time and extend the flowering time on the plant. Poinsettias like it warm and prefer a sunny window to grow and flower properly. Now is also the time to begin providing the plant with short day conditions to encourage flowering for the holidays. Place a piece of paper on the refrigerator door near the handle and write poinsettia on it. At supper time place the plant in a "DARK" spot in your home like a closet, basement, or unoccupied room where the light cannot get to the plant until morning. When you get out the cream for your morning coffee, move the plant back to the sunny window until supper and treat like your other houseplants as far as watering and feeding. It will take 4 weeks to change the hormones of the plant from vegetative to flowering growth; as soon as you begin to notice red coloration on the upper leaves and stems of the plant, you can stop the process, as the hormones have changed over and your plant will flower all by itself now. Just keep it in a warm, sunny window and watch the daily changes develop on the plant.

Potted herbs should also come in now as well as geraniums and begonias, and be placed in a warm and sunny room. Bulb plants must stay out until the foliage is killed by the frost so they can go dormant. cannas, tuberous begonias, calla lilies, caladium, elephant ears and other non-winter hardy bulbs in your garden NEED the frost before coming in. I will tell you about those plants next week and how to care for them. With the three topics I chose for you this week you will have plenty to do this week and weekend--so get out and enjoy the fall weather! Enjoy!



Who you going to call?Ghostbusters



"The first rule of successful gardening is to work with, not against, the natural setting."

Burpee Complete Gardener




                             SOUTHERN PECAN PUMPKIN PIE



1 small sugar Pumpkin 3 to 5 pounds

2 cubs of chopped Pecans

3 extra-large or jumbo eggs

1 cup of dark brown sugar

¾ cup of dark corn syrup

3 tablespoons of unsalted butter, melted

1 teaspoon of regular or sea salt

2 to 3 tablespoons of Jim Bean or your favorite Bourbon

½ teaspoon of ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon of ground nutmeg



Pre heat the oven at 350 degrees. Spread the pecans

on a cookie sheet and toast for 5 to 8 minutes, or until

lightly browned and fragrant. Remove from the oven and cool.


Increase the heat to 375 degrees and place you pie plate with the

 Pie crusts already placed in the plate in the oven and cook the crust

shell for 10 minutes and remove from the oven.


Remove the pumpkin handle and cut in half. Place both pieces

 cut side down in a microwave Dish and cook on high for about

5 minutes or until you can pierce the pumpkin with a fork easily.

 When cooked, place to one side and let it cool. When cool clean out

 seeds and scoop out the fresh cooked pumpkin meat into a measuring

cup as you will need 2 good cups full. Place in medium mixing bowl and

mash slightly with a fork. In a large mixing bowl, add and mix the eggs, sugar,

corn syrup, melted butter, Bourbon, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Whisk all

the ingredients together until well blended. Now add the cooled

 Pecans and Pumpkin meat and blend all the ingredients together

Well. Spoon the pumpkin and pecan mixture into the partially cooked piecrust.

Level pie filling and place in center of the oven. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or

 until the filling has set up and firm. Cool for at least 1 hour before cutting the pie.

Serve with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or whipped cream on the pie, or both!

" Y'all will love this pie ", so enjoy!





The Diffin Family is ready are you?


This Halloween when you're carving your Pumpkin how about making roasted pumpkin seeds, it's easy and very tasty. You can also flavor them if you want more than just a salty tasting pumpkin seeds. Here all you have to do for a great treat this Halloween!


1} Cut open you pumpkin and scoop out all the seeds and strings, put to one side. Now carve your pumpkin.


2} Place your pumpkin seeds in a colander and run cold water over them to rinse and remove any of the strings and pulp mixed in with the seeds.


3} Measure the clean pumpkin seeds in a measuring cup. Place the seeds in a medium sauce pan and add 2 cups of water and a mounded tablespoon of sea or regular salt for every cup of pumpkin seeds. If you like those with a more salty taste, add more salt. Bring the salted water and pumpkin seeds to a boil.[i] Lower the burner to simmer and cook for about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and drain.


4} Pre heat your oven at 400 degrees. With a pastry brush coat the bottom of a thick cookie sheet with olive oil, a couple tablespoons. Add a tablespoon of olive oil per cup of seeds and coat every seed evenly then spread out evenly on your cookie sheet, avoid layering the seeds.


5} Bake on the top rack of your oven and cook from 5 to 20 minutes depending on the size of the seeds. Stir seeds every few minutes until golden brown in color and keep them in a single layer. Taste them after 5 minutes and keep an eye on them so you do not overcook them, taste often. Let the Pumpkin seeds cool before eating.


6} if you want to jazz them up, add a bit of paprika, cumin, Chile power, or garlic powder before cooking in the oven. Or you can add a couple tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce, a couple drops of hot sauce, and a tablespoon of brown sugar for a sweet and spicy taste. Trick or Treat !!!!!! Enjoy!




              Garden Journal - A garden is a friend you can visit any time. Gardens require planning and cultivation, yielding beauty and joy. This garden journal helps make planning and organizing easy. This book makes a great gift for gardeners, family, friends, birthdays, Christmas, new home or as a self purchase.

Cover holds a 5 x7 or 4x6 photo, Heavy-duty D-ring binder

1. 8 tabbed sections
2. 5 garden details sections with pockets for seeds, tags....
3. Weather records page
4. 6 three year journal pages
5. Insect & diseases page - 3 project pages
6. 3 annual checklist pages
7. Plant wish list page
8. 2 large pocket pages
9. Sheet of garden labels
10. 5 garden detail sheets
11. 5 graph paper pages for layouts
12. 5 photo pages holds - 4- 4x6 photos in landscape or portrait format

Journal, Planning, Inspirations. 

 To Order call 207-985-6972

Regular price $34.95  Special Price $29.95! Limited supply!! Out of stock until November 5, 2014

Fall Fertilization - The key to a great lawn next spring


By: Lonnie Heflin Director of Operations Pro Trust Products 


The arrival of cooler temperatures triggers a dramatic change in the physiology of the millions of individual grass plants that make up your lawn. As the daytime temperatures cool, the "top growth" slows, and the grass plants direct their energy to their roots. Making two applications of Turf Trust® this fall provides the energy your lawn needs to develop a deep, dense root system.


The Turf Trust® Lawn Program is based on four feedings per year. Four applications of Turf Trust® supplies your lawn with the 3 pounds of nitrogen fescue lawns need In order to thrive. Each application of Turf Trust® supplies ¾ of a pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.


The fall feedings are the most important. With two applications, the 1st around Labor Day, and the 2nd between Halloween and Thanksgiving, Turf Trust® supplies your lawn with the energy it needs to build a deep, dense root system. This root system will help your lawn withstand the hazy, hot, and humid days of summer.


Grass plants grow from their crown, which is just above the soil surface. By making two applications of Turf Trust® this fall, the expanding root system stores energy in as carbohydrates (sugar) over the winter. When soil temperatures reach 52°F, the root system starts to release the stored sugars, providing the grass plant with enough energy to produce new shoots from the crown. The result is a thicker lawn next spring.


The Pro Trust Products line of ultra premium fertilizers and weed controls are only available at independent garden centers and hardware stores. As a special to Paul Parent Garden Club listeners, if we do not have a stocking dealer in your area, you can purchase our products on our website:  Simply click on the "Shop" tab and place your order. Remember to mention that you heard about our products from Paul Parent, and your order ships for free!


If you want a beautiful lawn next spring, now is the time to start a "Grass Roots Movement:" in your lawn with Turf Trust®. Prepare to be amazed!



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Sunday:12 pm to 5 PM

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Let Dr. Earth assist you with all of  your organic gardening needs!

Be Sure To Visit Dr. Earth


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