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Time to decorate for the Fall
Welcome to the Paul Parent Garden Club 2014 Newsletter
*How to print article's at bottom of newsletter.
Take time to appreciate the fall foliage



I think that I enjoy the fall season more than any other seasons, because it's Mother Nature's turn to show off all of her hard work. It's also the perfect time for us to add color to our yards by looking at the colors of the foliage around us. If you enjoy red flowers in your garden during the summer months, then why not plant shrubs and trees that have red foliage during the fall months?

Fall is a season for every color in the rainbow--from reds to pinks, gold, orange, and yellow. So look around you at your gardens and your friends' gardens as you drive around town or on the trip to the mountains for the fabulous fall foliage color. Then visit your local nursery and take advantage of their fall sales to add color to your garden during the fall months. Here are some of my favorite plants to add color to your yard this fall.

Let us start with the trees, because they form the canopy over and around our property and will give us the most color for our money. The color of the foliage will vary from year to year, depending on the rainfall during the summer months and during the early weeks of fall. Also helping to determine the color is the temperature during the color changeover and the health of the tree overall. The length of the color on the tree is also determined by the weather and all it takes is a big rain and wind storm and the show is over--but nice "Indian Summer" weather will extend the show of fall foliage for many extra days.

  • The Maple family: Has the best color in the fall and a wide selection of colors to choose from but there are many other trees just as beautiful to look at, so print this list when you go "Leaf Peeping."
    • Norway Maple: best shades of yellow to gold and even a bit of orange on the same leaf.
    • The Norway maple Hybrid 'Crimson King' has reddish purple leaves spring to fall.
    • Red Maple: Brilliant and the best reds, with splashes of orange and yellow mixed on the same tree.
    • Silver Maple: Yellow and orange blend with a splash of red on the same tree.
  • The Oak family: Known for shades of reds and deep green on the same leaf that will often develop later during the fall season and fade to reddish-brown. Some varieties hold the leaves well into winter.
  • The Birch family: known for bright golden yellow foliage and the wonderful white papery looking bark.
  • White Ash: known for the reds and purple shades mixed on the foliage.
  • Green Ash: known for superb yellow to gold foliage.
  • Beech family: known for bright yellow to golden brown to brown leaves that stay on the tree until winter.
  • Ginkgo: brilliant bright yellow for many days but all the leaves will fall from the tree at the same time.
  • Elms: shades of yellow with lines of green running thru it before turning brown and falling.
  • The Linden family: shades of striking yellow to gold foliage.
  • The Flowering Pear family: starts as a shiny yellow-orange then changes to red. Striking.
  • The Flowering Crabapples: shades of deep bright orange and red on the same leaf.
  • The Dogwood family: red to reddish purple and red to bright orange on the same leaves.
  • The Shadblow family: bright orange and very striking.
  • The Weeping Willow family: bright and shiny yellow foliage.
  • The Mountain Ash family: showy golden yellow foliage.
  • The Sourwood: begins yellow, then turns to shades of red and maroon foliage.
  • The Dawn Redwood: an evergreen needle that will turn orange-brown to reddish-brown and drop.
  • The Larch family: an evergreen needle that will turn bright yellow to gold and drop.

Here are a few suggestions for the best shrubs for fall foliage color for your yard and your gardens! Many of these shrubs also have beautiful flowers and fruit on them so the fall foliage is just an added benefit to the plant. Fall is for planting, so take advantage of the sales at your local nursery and get your yard landscaped this month and save money at the same time.

The Burning Bush is the KING of all fall foliage shrubs. In some states it has been removed from the nurseries and is not available for sale because these states overplanted them along the roadways and they have become invasive. These states will not agree with me but see for yourself when you drive along the highways how many are planted on the side of overpasses to prevent erosion, to give color to the highway and make the roadways look more beautiful during your many hours of traveling.

You all know the Burning Bush because of its wonderful bright fire-engine red foliage during the month of October. I Have several in my yard and have never seen seedlings develop around the plants, but because state horticulturists who overplanted them have passed a law preventing them from being sold, you are no longer able to purchase them in my state. If you have a Burning Bush in your yard please look around your property for seedlings and let me know if your plants have become invasive!

  • The Viburnum family: varying shades of reds to reddish purple and very showy.
  • The Witchhazel family: brilliant yellow to orange foliage.
  • The Enkianthus family: bright red foliage with a bit of yellow splash on the inner leaves of the plant.
  • The Sumac family: rich reds, scarlet, maroon and some new hybrids shades of yellow foliage.
  • The Shrub-type Dogwoods: shades of red foliage with colorful stems that are red or golden yellow.
  • The Fothergilla family: wonderful shades of yellow, orange, and red blended on the foliage.
  • Oakleaf Hydrangea: unusual shades of reds to purples on the foliage.
  • Rhododendron PJM: burgundy red fall color
  • Rhododendron mucronulatum: Deciduous variety with yellow fall foliage.
  • The Cotoneaster family: shiny bright red to reddish purple.
  • Bridal wreath: orange and red combinations on the foliage.
  • Forsythia family: green and burgundy foliage
  • Kerria family: pale to medium yellow foliage.
  • Blueberries: shades of yellow, orange and changing to bronze and red foliage.
  • The Leucothoe family: rich wine to burgundy evergreen foliage during the winter months.

There are a few vines and ground covers with good fall color that you should also look for at your local nursery. Most plants stay green or the foliage falls off the plant green in the fall season, but look for these two plants and you will not go wrong.

Boston ivy: bright reds, crimson and even new hybrids with yellow foliage, the best vine for fall color.

Euonymus Coloratus: my favorite ground cover will turn a plum-purple color from the first frost and last until the new growth develops in the spring before turning green again.

When selecting plants for your yard and garden it is always better to select plants that will provide you with more than one quality while in your care. The flowers are nice but they can only last for so long and if fall color is also available you have a plant with two qualities, not just flowers for 4 to 8 weeks a year. Enjoy!

I have one more suggestion for you for this fall. If you have family or friends who live in an area of the country where the foliage does not change colors in the fall, do this for them. Pick an assortment of colorful leaves and stuff a bag with them, then send them out to them where they live. I do this every year and take a large zip lock bag. Place a couple paper towels that are wet to cover the leaves and place in the bag. The leaves stay moist and hold their color until they get there. I use a Priority Mail envelop from the post office and it gets there in a couple of days for less than $10.00. It's a wonderful gift for people who have moved out of the area; it will bring back many memories for them. Great for the grandkids who live in the South where the closest thing to colorful plants is ORANGES on a tree. Enjoy!



The Autumn Leaves By Nat King Cole
The Autumn Leaves By Nat King Cole
Enjoy your fall berries



Right now we are all enjoying the beautiful fall foliage but soon the magical colors will disappear and our garden will begin to look a bit drab! planned ahead by planting shrubs and trees that not only flower but make beautiful fruit or berries for the fall and winter months. When most gardeners think of plants with berries, they think of holly--but there is so much more for your garden and there is no better time to learn about these berries than now when they are on the plants. Plants that make berries come in two categories, summer and winter types. Because it's fall, let me tell you about the winter types of berry plants for your garden.

Let's begin with the wonderful trees that produce clusters of fruit in many colors and shapes to feed our birds during the fall and winter months. Yes, the berries are beautiful to look at, but their main purpose is to provide food for birds and wildlife during the winter months when most native plants are dormant or covered with snow. My favorite is the European Mountain Ash because of the wonderful white flower clusters in the spring and large clusters of bright orange fruit that develop during September.

I planted an 8 foot tall tree at my parents' house in the late 70's and today it's well over 40 feet tall. I would often watch the birds pick the berries from the tree around the Thanksgiving holiday. One Thanksgiving morning, my grandfather and I were having coffee and watching the birds from the kitchen table, when he told me this story about the Mountain Ash tree. My grandfather's name was Romeo Parent but everybody called him POP. I always called him "The Fisherman" because he loved nothing more than going fishing--and he often took me along. When I got older, it was my turn to take him fishing and we spent many wonderful hours together fishing--but let me tell you the story he told me about the Mountain Ash tree.

POP lived in the days of Prohibition, when beer and liquor were outlawed but POP and his friends used to pick the berries from the wild Mountain Ash trees growing in Maine to make homemade wine with them. Despite the law, almost everyone he knew made their own alcohol with wild berries and fruit like apples, pears, and peaches. POP told me that his favorite homemade wine was from the Mountain Ash tree and every time I see the Mountain Ash Tree I think of my Grandfather. If you're looking to plant trees with wonderful fruit go to your local nursery and ask to look at the following trees:

  • The Flowering Crabapple family: Not all varieties make fruit, so be sure to ask for ideas from the nurseryman and for his suggestions. Some of my favorites are.
  • Japanese Flowering Crabapple: with yellow to red fruit.
  • Tea Crabapple: with golden fruit with a red blotch.
  • Sargent Crabapple: with red fruit.
  • Donald Wyman: with glossy red fruit.
  • Harvest Gold: with glossy gold fruit.
  • Zumi: with golden yellow fruit.
  • Red Jade: red fruit
  • Weeping Candied Apple: with cherry red fruit.
  • Spring Flowering Dogwood: with jelly bean shaped red fruit.
  • Kousa Dogwood: with a raspberry shaped red fruit.
  • Magnolias: red to pink fruit in a pod that will break open to reveal the fruit.
  • Sourwood: white early, then turning to brown.
  • The Flowering Pear family: green to yellow.
  • The Hawthorn family: Glossy red to reddish purple fruit.
  • Red Cedar: powdery blue fruit.
  • Russian-Olive: silvery green fruit.
  • Autumn- Olive: burnt orange to red fruit.

If your yard has no room for trees, here are a few wonderful shrubs with unique fruit for both evergreen and deciduous plants. Here are some evergreen plants with much to offer your garden.

  • Oregon Grape Holly: clusters of dusty bright blue fruit.
  • The Holly family: clusters of bright shiny red and some gold fruit.
  • The Skimmia family: clusters of bright red fruit.
  • The Ilex family: shiny black fruit.
  • The Cotoneaster family: bright red fruit.
  • The Evergreen Euonymus family: red to pink fruit that will break open and reveal orange seeds.
  • The Daphne family: red fruit.
  • The Inkberry family: dark blue to black fruit.
  • The Pyracantha family: My favorite shrub with bright orange to orange-red fruit clusters, and also yellow.

Here are some wonderful deciduous plants with wonderful fruit clusters. Fruit is showy with and without foliage on the plant. With snow on the ground they are spectacular.

  • The Viburnum family: This is the largest family of fruit bearing plants; they vary in many shades of red to reddish-purple, blue, and black. If you want birds you will need the Viburnum family on your property.
  • Bayberry family: Dusty blue fruit.
  • Barberry family: Oval red to yellow fruit.
  • Snowberry; beautiful white fruit clusters.
  • Burning Bush: red to pink fruit that will break open to reveal orange seeds.
  • Privet Hedges: with wonderful blue black fruit clusters.
  • Rosa Rugosa: Bright orange fruit that changes to red.
  • The Beautyberry family: white, pink, and purple fruit clusters. A must-see plant in the fall.
  • Winterberry family: My favorite deciduous plant, with shiny red fruit clusters that cover the new growth on the plant. Winterberry is often sold during Christmas to put in window boxes outside for the winter with greens.

***During the fall season many of us will go to pick dry weeds and wild flowers for dry arrangements. Bittersweet is wonderful and the many dry pods found in fields and forest areas work well in your arrangements, but be careful not to pick silver gray berry clusters that grow on a vine along the ground or on the side of a tree. POISON IVY makes a nice silver gray berry often confused with Bayberry shrub. Before you pick, smell the plant for the Bayberry fragrance on the branches! If there is no fragrance it could be Poison Ivy and as you pick it and hold the branches in your arms, you will be in for a surprise the following morning!!! Look first, think and then pick your wild plants and berries. Enjoy!!!




Feel like a kid again and play in the leaves

To do list for September Garden 



September is the perfect time to start a compost pile if you do not have one yet. Just think of all the plant material you will soon have to work with and change to beautiful organic matter for your spring garden. Fall will bring us all the tired and dead vegetable plants and some vegetables that did not have time to make it to maturity. All of your faded annual flowers and foliage, the fading perennial foliage, the leaves and pine needles from your trees and the grass will still need to be cut and more. All you need for a compost pile is a sunny location and a source to get water to keep the material wet so it can break down faster--that is all.

I have a Compost Tumbler and I will be able to get two tumblers of compost from now to the spring. On the ground, if you can start now, by spring your organic matter will be almost ready when you need it in May. So this year recycle your spent plants into rich compost for a better garden next year. Mix green and brown plant material evenly for faster compost. Warning: do not put crabgrass plants into the compost pile or the seed will germinate in your gardens next spring. This is the only specific plant you must keep out of the compost pile.

Fall Lawn Care

Now is the best time to plant a new lawn from seed or help thicken an existing lawn that has thinned-out over the summer. The days of roto-tilling are over and so is the hard work of putting in a new lawn or adding seed to a thin lawn. Today all you need is a machine called a "Seed Slicer," and you can rent one at any power equipment rental agency for very little money. This is all you have to do this fall to create the perfect lawn or a lawn that is much better than what you have now.

Just follow these easy steps to a better lawn. Begin by cutting the grass as short as possible; there is no need to rake the clippings unless the grass is as tall as a hay field. Rent a Seed Slicer and be sure to reserve it a head of time as this time of the year, it is rented a lot. Your Seed Slicer will slice many grooves into the soil as it pulls you across the lawn and drops the grass seed into these grooves at the same time. This machine does all the work and all you have to do is guide it straight so the seed is applied evenly. You should be able to apply the seed to a lawn about 10,000 square feet in less than one hour, so consider renting this machine with a neighbor and splitting the cost of the rental.

Use a good seed and be sure that it is a PERENNIAL blend, as a blend with annual seed will die with the first frost. Get good quality seed like Jonathan Green 'Black Beauty,' Scotts Premium Seed or Wildflower Farm 'Eco-lawn' grass seed. If you are just thickening an existing lawn, run the Seed Slicer up and down the lawn once. If you are building a new lawn, run the Seed Slicer north to south and then east to west for double the seed, which will produce a wonderful lawn. The cost of the seed is minor, compared to your time if you have to do this again, so use plenty of seed the first time.

Once the seed is applied to the ground, use a good fertilizer for newly seeded lawns or seed starter fertilizer; it will make the grass germinate faster and build a better root system. If moss is a problem you can also add limestone or Jonathan Green Mag-I-Cal to help sweeten the soil and slow down the moss development in your lawn. If your soil is heavy with clay, apply liquid Garden Gypsum, made by Soil Logic, to break apart the clay in your soil for better drainage.

Now all you have to do is WATER--and water often. You will need to water the seed every day, unless it rains, until the ground freezes. Some varieties of seed will germinate quickly to keep you interested with this project and then the stronger grass will develop, so keep the water on the area. Some grass seed will germinate in just two weeks but some might take as long as four weeks, so be patient and stay positive for a better lawn. NO WEED KILLERS can be used when seeding!

For your established lawn, fertilize with a fall or winter fertilizer during September or October. If broadleaf weeds are a problem, the fall is also a great time to control them. Use Lime or Mag-I-Cal to sweeten the soil for your lawn and control moss. Use Garden Gypsum to break up clay and also apply this product on the side of the road to open up the ground so salt from the snow plows can leach out of the ground faster and minimize dead grass from the salt.

Check the lawn regularly for potential insect problems that will be noticeable with animals digging in the lawn. If problems develop in your lawn, check with your local Garden Center or Nursery for the right product to apply to the lawn.

Flowerbeds: Annuals and Perennials

In the perennial flowerbeds begin to cut back tired perennials to the ground and continue to remove weeds that develop. Once the plant begins to turn yellow, cut it back and compost the foliage. If you have open spaces in the garden between plants, place a plant label there so you can later plant spring flowering bulbs in the opening for early color. If some of your perennials have grown very large or have spread beyond where you want them to grow, this is the time to divide them or thin them out.

When everything is clean, I love to apply a thin layer of bark mulch to keep the plant roots protected during the winter months and when spring arrives, the mulch will help control weeds in the garden. Do not fertilize perennials in the fall because if the weather gets moist and warm some of the plants may begin to grow and will be killed back by colder weather.

Annual flowerbeds should always be cleaned of all plant debris as soon as the plants die back. Pull all plants up and rake the garden clean of foliage. This cleaning removes potential problems for next year that you had this year. Diseases leave spores on the plant for next year and insects leave eggs for next year, so get them out of the garden for a fresh start.

If you are using the old-fashioned limestone in your garden, apply it to the garden now as it may take up to six months to help sweeten the soil. This is also a great time to spread animal manure, compost or seaweed on the garden so it has a chance to work its way into the garden soil. Just scratch it in or turn over the soil to cover the material you are adding to the garden soil.

Rose Care

In the Rose Garden, it is important now to keep the roses well watered but "NO FERTILIZER"! At this time of the year, you want the plant to begin to "harden-off" the stems and prepare for the winter with woody and hard stems rather that soft and flexible growth. If insects visit your garden, spray them and continue to use fungicides if needed--but no food.

Cut your flowers for a vase of water but do not "cut back the plant" at all. Roses are pruned in the spring only, to control size, remove dead or disease branches and to stimulate new growth. If you prune back roses in October, you are making openings where the plant can lose moisture during the winter as the plant is going dormant for the winter and is unable to scab over the branches you cut. The results are branches that dehydrate and die.

When the rose plants are leafless, clean the garden of all foliage on the ground and remove it from the garden as these leaves carry insect eggs and disease spores for next year if left on the ground. Spray plants with a anti-desiccant like Wilt-Pruf or Wilt Stop to help protect them for the winter winds and build a mound of soil or mulch around the plant 12 inches tall and wide for additional protection.


In the vegetable garden, begin to remove the plants that have stopped producing and toss them in your compost pile. There is not much time before frost, so any productive plants should be fertilized now. Use a liquid food like Miracle-Gro to push the plants and help mature the fruit they are making. Water the garden as needed to keep plants productive and check for possible late insects. Clean the garden of all dead foliage as it could contain disease spores and insect eggs that could infect the garden next year.

If you want a better soil for next year, spread pine needles, ground up leaves or even seaweed from the beach over the garden and till into the soil. Animal manure and compost are also very good to encourage beneficial microbes to develop in your garden soil. Apply limestone to the garden if your tomatoes had black spots on the bottom of the fruit this year as this is a sign of acid soil and called "blossom end rot."



Fall house plant care


Many of us still have houseplants on our deck, patio and even in the garden at this time of the year, and it's time now to begin the process of bringing them inside for the winter or putting them in the basement where it's frost-free and they can enjoy a nice cool winter of dormancy. Follow these simple rules and your plants will acclimate themselves better to the move indoors.

The first thing to remember is that your plants will acclimate to the changes better if they can get into the house before the heat is turned on and the storm windows are put into place. Right now your plants are getting morning dew that they love as it covers the plant and encourages new growth and flower bud production for our winter-flowering plants. Plants love lots of daylight and even direct sun to enjoy, and they want good air movement to keep down possible fungus problems. But the weather is beginning to cool off and that could cause a chilling effect that could damage plants with delicate foliage or those forming buds on the plant.

Here is what you need to do to prepare the plant for the move indoors. Begin by washing the container with a mild bleach, soap and water bath. This will destroy potential insect eggs or fungus spores placed on the container because of the temperature change. If the pot is coming inside and it has a matching saucer, be sure to wash that as well. Now check the foliage and the branches of the plant for possible insects. If you find visible insects, webbing or small hard bumps on the stems or leaves of the plant and if the foliage feels sticky, you have potential problems that must be cared for before the plant comes back into the house. Wash the foliage where you see the problem with a soft cloth that is soaked in a warm water and Dawn dish soap. Dawn is the best foliage cleaner on the market today and with a bit of pressure you can easily remove the hard spots or bumps living on the plant called "scale."

This cleaning will remove the webbing that most likely contains red spider mites--a potential BIG problem if brought inside your home, because they will easily jump onto other plants already in your house. Allow the soapy water mix to set on the foliage for 15 to 30 minutes after you have removed any noticeable problems--and be sure to get the mixture in all the crevices on the stems of the plant and on every leaf and branch. Then spray the soapy mixture off the plant and you're almost ready for the move indoors. One last thing to do--if you found problems or not--let's take no chances this fall of bringing in any stowaways. If you're moving many plants indoors I would do the following.

First treat the soil with a granular insecticide called "Systemic Granules Insect Control" that, when added to the soil, will move inside the plant to protect it from future problems for up to eight weeks (do not use on edible plants). The product is available at most garden centers and produced by Bonide Lawn and Garden. This product will kill aphids, whiteflies, leaf miners, mealy bugs, scale, and mites. Now, if you had a real problem with the plant, I would also spray the plant with an All Season Oil after washing the plant. This is a superior type of paraffinic oil that is safe for all types of plants indoors or outside and smothers insect and eggs on the plant before they have a chance to create a problem.

Now bring the plant indoors and fertilize it with a good houseplant fertilizer like Dr. Earth flower fertilizer once it is placed near a window for the winter. During the fall and winter months you should cut back your fertilizing to half the normal amount, as the plants are growing muchmore slowly, due to the short day length and decrease in the intensity of the sunshine. Watering demand will also decrease during the winter, so what I do is dig into the soil with my finger and feel for moisture. Water houseplants according to their needs--and not because Saturday is your watering day. Large tropical foliage plants will definitely need less water during the winter months, especially if your home is kept cool (60 to 65 degrees) or the weather becomes cloudy and less sunshine is available to the plant. What plants do love during the fall and winter months indoors is misting of the foliage to add humidity around the foliage of the plant, like a greenhouse atmosphere, and that moisture will also help you keep breathing better with higher humidity in your plant room.

Keep plants away from drafty windows and doors that open and close often to prevent chilling the foliage and flowers on the plant. Place plants that require the most amount of sunshine in windows facing south or southwest, while plants that require less light can go to east or north facing windows.

Now, another thing to consider is heat source and types of heat for your plants. Because most plants like moisture in the air (humidity) try to keep plants away from heat sources like wood or pellet stoves, forced hot air vents and don't place them in front of heating registers. Just as an example, ficus and fern plants will drop many leaves if the room is to dry for them, while yucca and palm plants will do real well. Flowering plants like poinsettia, Christmas cactus, gardenias and flowering bulb plants do not like homes with dry heat, and most of the time they will have short flowering periods or drop many or all of their flower buds before the buds have a chance to open. If your home has one these types of heat, keep plants away from heating vents and out of the room where your stove is present. Plants will do better on a window sill, where temperatures are cooler, as long as the window is not drafty. Christmas cactus and gardenias love to be misted with a good squirt of water on the plant and especially on the flower buds as they form to keep them actively productive.

Plants that spend the winter in your cool basement or in your crawl space under the house should go inside with a good watering but no fertilizer. Plants like angel trumpet, dipladenia, mandevilla, and fig trees can do down to the basement in early October--even if they have foliage on them. The foliage will yellow and fall from the plant--and that is OK; the plant is going dormant and will be resting for the winter. Keep the plants on the cold floor and away from heat source like your furnace, the cooler the better but above freezing. If the soil does get real dry during the winter it is OK to add a bit of water to the pot but do not soak the root ball or the plant will wake up and begin to grow with yellow foliage, due to no sunlight in the basement.

Plants like gardenias, Christmas cactus, and florist azaleas need to be kept on the cool side or they will flower early, so keep them in a north facing window with good light but no heat from the day's sunlight coming through your windows. Room temperatures of 50 to 60 degrees are best to keep the flowers on time and extend the flowering time on the plant. Poinsettias like it warm and prefer a sunny window to grow and flower properly. Now is also the time to begin providing the plant with short day conditions to encourage flowering for the holidays. Place a piece of paper on the refrigerator door near the handle and write poinsettia on it. At supper time place the plant in a "DARK" spot in your home like a closet, basement, or unoccupied room where the light cannot get to the plant until morning. When you get out the cream for your morning coffee, move the plant back to the sunny window until supper and treat like your other houseplants as far as watering and feeding. It will take 4 weeks to change the hormones of the plant from vegetative to flowering growth; as soon as you begin to notice red coloration on the upper leaves and stems of the plant, you can stop the process, as the hormones have changed over and your plant will flower all by itself now. Just keep it in a warm, sunny window and watch the daily changes develop on the plant.

Potted herbs should also come in now as well as geraniums and begonias, and be placed in a warm and sunny room. Bulb plants must stay out until the foliage is killed by the frost so they can go dormant. cannas, tuberous begonias, calla lilies, caladium, elephant ears and other non-winter hardy bulbs in your garden NEED the frost before coming in. I will tell you about those plants next week and how to care for them. With the three topics I chose for you this week you will have plenty to do this week and weekend--so get out and enjoy the fall weather! Enjoy!







"All gardens  are a form of autobiography "

Robert Dash

Pumpkin Meatloaf
Pumpkin Meat Loaf the Perfect Fall Supper




1 small pumpkin 4 to 5 pounds.


11/2 pounds of ground sirloin 93% or 90% ground beef.
2/3 cups of rolled oats, oatmeal.
1 cup of milk.
1/8 teaspoon of pepper.
1/4 teaspoon poultry seasoning.
2 jumbo eggs
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce.
1 small onion about 3 inches finely chopped

1/4 cup of ketchup
2 tablespoon of firmly packed brown sugar.
1 tablespoon of Dijon mustard
1/8 teaspoon of nutmeg
Preheat your oven at 350 degrees.  Wash the pumpkin and cut a
 Hole in the top of The pumpkin like you were carving a pumpkin
For Halloween, and keep stem attached to top of pumpkin.  Clean out
 All the innards, and the seeds of the pumpkin. Clean the top and put


In a large mixing bowl combine the ground beef, rolled oats, milk, pepper,
 Poultry seasoning, eggs Worcestershire sauce and onions. Put the
Mixture inside the pumpkin filling it to almost the top, and set aside.


In a measuring cup combine the catchup, brown sugar, mustard, and
Nutmeg, and blend well. Spread evenly over the top of meat loaf inside
the Pumpkin. Set the top of the pumpkin back on top and bake in the
 Center of a cake pan for 1 hour and 15 minutes or until cook evenly.


Remove from the oven and place on a large serving dish. Cut from the
 Top of the pumpkin down like a piece of melon.  You will have a slice
Of pumpkin filled with the meat loaf.  Looks great and the flavors of the
 Two have blended together for a wonderful taste.  This is a family favorite
In the fall and the rest of the year we use a 5 by 9 inch loaf pan. Enjoy!




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6. 3 annual checklist pages
7. Plant wish list page
8. 2 large pocket pages
9. Sheet of garden labels
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Do not use the "Print" icon unless you want to print the whole web page or email. Instead, follow the next steps.

Select the text you want on a web page where there is a story, paragraph, or a few lines that you want to print. Left-click on the mouse at the beginning and drag across to the end of the text you want and release. While the text is selected (highlighted), go to the top menu line and click "File" / "Print", in the print window that shows. Put a dot in the radio button for "Selection," and then click the OK or Print button. Some printers need you to select apply .

Do the same for emails. If you want to print a joke or article that you receive, do not click the Print icon. Select the text as above and use the "File" / "Print" menu and click "Selection", click OK or "Print".

Try another way to do a print job for text only. This involves selecting the text you want as above; then right click, copy and right click, paste to a word processor or even Wordpad (located in "Start" / "Programs" / "Accessories" / "Wordpad") and print from there. This method will produce a copy with no extra information. 

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  Written by Paul Parent                         Produced by Christine Parent

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