For Garden Questions Call Sunday Morning 6AM - 10AM | Call: 1-855-660-4261 | Listen Live!  

 

Enjoy your garden fresh Tomatoes while you can fall is less than two weeks away
Welcome to the Paul Parent Garden Club 2014 Newsletter
*How to print article's at bottom of newsletter.
Fall flowering Silver Lace Vine

 

 

The other day, while running a few errands, I decided to take a different road to get to my first stop and came across a wonderful vine that you should know about. The plant is called silver lace vine, and it blooms from July to late September. It's not a plant that most of us talk about, I think because it flowers so late in the season and it's one of those old fashioned plants our grandparents grew before all the new hybrid flowering vines were introduced. This is a plant that you should know about if you want privacy, if you want to cover an old chain linked fence, if you have a hill-side that is difficult to mow or too steep to maintain, or even a cliff you want to protect from erosion--the silver lace vine is for you!

The silver lace vine originated in western China and is cold-hardy to -30 degrees. If you live in Northern New England, New York, west to Minnesota and south to Georgia, this is a plant that can solve many problems for you while giving you wonderful color during the summer right up to early fall. No winter protection is necessary and wind, salt spray from the ocean and deep snow will not hurt this plant.

Silver lace vine is a deciduous vine loosing its foliage in early October with no show of color, as the leaves fall from the plant while still green. The leaves form on the plant with a tinge of reddish-bronze but quickly mature to dark green. They are fine textured, in the shape of an Indian arrow head, growing 1 to 2 inches long and shiny. The plant will grow very thick, with these leaves quickly covering the vine in the spring.

The flowers develop on the new growth made on the plant from May to August, and for most plants the new growth is 1 to 3 feet ,but not on this plant. Silver lace vine will grow TEN to FIFTEEN feet every summer; can you now imagine how many flowers are on this plant during the late summer months? These flowers are small--1/5 of an inch in diameter--and form on finger-like panicles/spikes by the hundreds. The flowers develop on the top of the plant's new growth and usually completely cover the plant, almost covering the foliage when in full bloom. The plant does have a bit of fragrance close up but is not known for it. The flowers are white in the sun to greenish-white in partial shade and they will last on the plant from 8 to 10 weeks, depending on the September weather.

The silver lace vine is a twining vine and does need something to grow on like a trellis, arbor, or fence. It will NOT climb up the side of a structure or building like the Boston ivy does, as it cannot cling to a surface without support. Give it support and it will quickly grow to the top. If you're going to train it to grow on a chain link fence for privacy, set out plants on every other section of fence as it will cover two sections of fencing in just two years. For arbors 6 to 8 feet tall and wide, one plant is all you will need.

Silver lace vines will grow in just about any type of soil--especially dry soil--once they are established in your yard. They do not like wet feet, so keep them away from areas where you will have standing water during the spring and winter ice. Plant them in a soil you condition with a lot of compost, animal manure, or peat moss before panting and if your soil is on the sandy to gravely side use Soil Moist granules also. The first year in your garden, silver lace vine should be watered weekly until it is well established, and during the summer months if the garden gets hot and dry. Once established, this plant does not need any help from you.

Fertilize every spring with Plant-Tone or Dr. Earth Shrub and Tree fertilizer with Pro Biotic. If you want to control the size of the plant, prune the plant back by as much as 75% every spring, before the new growth begins to develop--during March or April. If not pruned back, it will continue to grow, reaching a height of 20 to 30 feet high or long on a fence. This is a wonderful vine to plant at the base of a sparse-growing evergreen tree like spruce or pine; in just a couple of years it will fill in all the open areas on the plant, but won't kill the tree.

Silver lace vine will grow faster in full sun than shade but it will do quite well in a part-shade garden. Disease problems are minimal and never a problem, but if you have a summer with many Japanese beetles in your yard, they may be a problem. Just spray the plant with Garden Eight from Bonide Lawn and Garden if there is a problem, or use Tree and Shrub systemic soil drench in the spring for year-long insect control.

Plant silver lace vine at the base of all types of fences and let it run across the top of the solid wood or vinyl fence for additional height to the fence and wonderful summer to fall color. Open wire fences like chain link will quickly become solid during the summer months but in the fall all the foliage will drop, letting light into your yard for the winter. This vine will give you quick privacy during the summer months around a pool, patio, or deck with little maintenance needed by you.

Use this wonderful vine as a ground cover in problem areas where nothing else will grow. This vine will quickly cover unattractive gravel slopes, piles of rocks or where garden debris has been disposed of. I have seen it planted on the top of a steep slope, and as it runs down the hill it will root on the ground and quickly cover the soil and protect it from erosion problems. Just set the plants out in 2 foot by 2 foot pockets of good soil to help them get established and watch them take over the problem area with a blanket of green foliage and white flowers during the summer.

In June, prune back a few 6 to 8 inch tip branches from the plant and dip them in rooting powder like you would use for rooting geraniums or coleus plants. Pot 3 cuttings in a 6 inch pot filled with fresh potting soil and keep in a shady location until they root (in just a couple of weeks). Keep them moist with plenty of light but no direct sun until they root. You can make new plants that easily--or if new shoots develop around the plant, just dig them in the spring before the foliage develops and set them out.

When you prune them in the spring, wrap the long vines around a container to make a wonderful looking twig wreath for your front door. Winding the vine in and out of the wreath will give it extra character also.

The house I saw the other day had planted morning glories at the base of the plant and the blue trumpet flowers look wonderful with the small white flowers of silver lace vine wrapped around them. If you want fast coverage and flowers, no other vine can do what this plant does! Enjoy!

 

 

Andy Williams - A Summer Place - 1962
Andy Williams - A Summer Place - 1962
                                 
Flamingo Box Elder - tri-color leaf, green, white and pink

 

 

When most of us think of maple trees, we think of big trees, big leaves, lots of shade and a cool place to sit under on a hot day. The one exception is the red-leaf Japanese maple, which stays under 25 feet tall and is grown for its size and foliage.

Last year, I had several branches on my white pines break with the weight of the heavy snow, leaving me with a big hole on one side of these trees. These white pines were planted for screening and noise control from the road, but the hole opened up everything.

I wanted to fill in the hole and plant something that could give me a bit of color at the same time. I like the Japanese red-leaf maple but, when planted in partial shade, the foliage would lose its red color and change to green. So, I began visiting several nurseries near me, and I found a 'Flamingo' box elder tree--what a find.

Let me tell you about this tree, because you might like one for your yard too. The 'Flamingo' box elder will grow in a rounded to broad-rounded shape, growing 25 feet tall and 20 feet wide, and will do very well in partial shade. You can prune in the spring to control the size if you wish to keep the tree smaller. If you notice branches growing much faster than others, prune them back a bit to help stimulate internal growth inside the tree to make it fuller growing and create a better shape.

The main reason I selected this tree was the foliage, which is pink, white and medium green in the spring to the fall. The new leaves develop a pink outer edge all around the leaf, about 1/2" wide, quickly followed with white colored foliage and then to a green center of the leaf. There is as much white as green on the leaf and each leaf looks different. The pink edge of the leaf will fade during the heat of summer to white, but the lack of pink on the leaf does not detract from the leaf. When the tree is planted in full sun all day the leaves will have a more colorful pink edge to them than when planted in partial shade like mine is.

The leaf does not look like the traditional maple leaf and is composed of 3 to 5 leaflets that grow 2 to 4 inches long--an oval shape coming to a point on the tip of the leaf. The 3 to 5 leaflets grow on a white stem, 6 to 8 inches long; when fall arrives, the entire stem will fall with the leaflets attached. The foliage gives the plant a feathery appearance and the color combination makes the plant stand out in your yard.

The green background of my pine trees behind it makes the tree even better looking and more striking. The box elder will adapt to wet or dry soil--even when you plant near large white pine trees. It is tough to grow plants near mature white pines because of the size of the root system of the pines.

My box elder has done fine because I dug a big hole 3 feet deep and just as wide. I added a lot of compost and good soil to the hole to help get it off to a good start. I also added Bio-Tone fertilizer with mycorrhizae to help develop roots quickly and Soil Moist to help hold water around the roots. I watered 2 times a week until the fall and now fertilize the tree spring and fall with Dr. Earth tree fertilizer. After the first year most plants should be well establishes in your garden but plants may need water if the weather gets hot, dry and little rainfall.

Insects and disease problems are minimal, and you can grow the 'Flamingo' box elder where winter temperatures drop down to minus 10 to 20 below. Plant it in a garden bed with 2 to 3 inches of mulch covering the ground. Plant some variegated perennials like hostas around the base of the plant for even more color. This is a real treat for your garden, no flowers but great foliage! 

 

Spring and Sumner flowers   -   Fall and Winter berries

Oregon Grape Holly 

 

 

 

Many years ago, when I attended The Stockbridge School of Agriculture at the University of Massachusetts in Amherst, Massachusetts, I ran into a wonderful shrub that you should have in your shade garden. The plant is called the Oregon grape holly (Mahonia aquifolium) and yes, it has sharp thorny leaves, but that is only one reason of many that I will never forget the plant.

My plant identification teacher asked us to look over the campus to find a plant we had never seen before and bring back a leaf, flower, or berry so we could discuss the plants. Several of us decided to check out the Dean's house at the top of the hill high above everything on campus, the highest point on campus. The driveway was lined with very mature umbrella pines, very rare to see in New England and very Beautiful. The grounds were beautifully landscaped and very well kept. As I ran thru the umbrella pine branches, I quickly ran into the first of many unknown plants, which I later found to be Oregon grape holly.

Oregon grape holly is one of the more cold-hardy broadleaf evergreens for New England, tolerating temperatures minus 10 to 20 below. The leaf was different from any holly I had ever seen before because each leaf was made up of 5 to 9 leaflets and each leaflet was the size of a normal holly leaf. The leaflets were arranged like a feather, on this stem, with one on the tip of the stem and the others in pairs opposite each other's in rows down the leaf stem. This multi-leaflet leaf grew to 10 to 12 inches long and the individual leaflets were one inch wide and two to three inches long.

The older leaves looked like the American holly--dull green with sharp thorns on the leaf edge. The new growth was bright apple green to bronzy copper and shiny. The plant grew upright, 3 to 4 feet tall, in a compact growing mound but not full and thick like other plants--more open and unruly. During the winter, the leaves had small purple blotches on the dull green leaves.

The plant also made fruit and, to my surprise, the berries were 1/2" long and purple-blue in color. The fruit or berries came in clusters of 25 or more and looked like small grapes with dusty blue powder on them. In the spring, usually March or April, the plant was covered with small spikes of bright yellow flowers 2 to 3 inches tall and fragrant. This is a wonderful plant, with holly foliage, spikes of yellow flowers in the spring and clusters of purple-blue fruit mid-summer through the winter.

Plant in a rich, moist soil that is well-drained and be sure to add compost or animal manure to the soil before planting. Plants do best in a shady garden but will tolerate morning sunshine if they protected from the winter wind and afternoon sun.

Like other hollies, this plant does prefer a soil on the acid side, so keep limestone away from the pants and cover the soil with 2 to 3 inches of bark mulch to protect the roots year-round. Fertilize with Holly- Tone or Dr. Earth acid adorning fertilizer in the spring--and water if the summer gets dry, or some of the fruit will fall from the plant.

Plant along a stone wall like at the Dean's house at U Mass, in groups with mountain laurel or rhododendrons, or as a specimen plant for the unique plant that it is. This is a great plant for gardeners who like something different in their gardens.  Enjoy!

 

 

 

Virurnum Dentatum -Spring flowers

 

For those of you that live near the seashore or a lake, it is difficult to select plants that will tolerate the growing conditions and extreme weather conditions during all four seasons until now. One of my favorite families of shrubs is the viburnum, because of the flowers, the fall foliage, and the beautiful fall/winter berries--but now there is even more to encourage you to plant this family of plants in your garden. The original Arrowwood viburnum has been a standard for those growing conditions, so let's begin to talk about the plant.

The plant is very durable and will tolerate temperatures from 20 to 40 degrees below zero during the winter. The plant will grow in the shape of a large rounded mound with spreading branches that arch gracefully down to the ground. It will grow 6 to 8 feet tall; if your soil is good and the plant protected from the harsh wind, it can grow even taller--often reaching 10 to 12 feet tall if not pruned. The plant will spread 6 to 15 feet wide, depending on where it is planted. The foliage is glossy dark green from May to mid-September, then it will change to a beautiful red wine color as the colder weather arrives. The leaves will grow 2 to 4 inches long and 1 to 2 inches wide, resembling rhododendron leaves. The plant is deciduous, so it will lose the foliage during October.

In May, delicate clusters of tiny creamy white flowers develop on the tip of the branches--almost covering the plant most years. The flower cluster range from 2 to 4 inches in diameter and the flower cluster is flat. The cluster is made up of many smaller flower clusters that resemble snowflakes on the plant, and they will stay in bloom from May into June most years. In July and August the flowers will form clusters of deep green round fruit and when the weather begins to cool off these berries begin to change to blue -black fruit under 1/2 an inch in diameter. When ripe, they become a favorite food of birds and often the plants are stripped of the berries very quickly because of their rich taste.

This is a great plant as a specimen in a full sun to part shade garden. Use the plant as a background for your perennials, annuals, or your rose garden. If you have a pine tree grove on your property, plant viburnum on the edge of the tree line or under the trees, if the branches have been pruned high off the ground letting sunlight hit the ground during the day. When in flower, the plant will attract butterflies and hummingbirds to the garden for extra interest. The plants can be planted on the side of a steep bank to help control erosion problems, if you apply a 2 to 3 inch layer of bark mulch or pine needles around them until they are well established. They make a wonderful display as a mass planting or you can plant the shrubs 4 to 6 feet apart to create a thick privacy hedge and noise barrier. Because it is salt tolerant, it will even do well planted near the road; winter salt and sand will not bother this plant.

When you plant, be sure to choose a location with well-drained soil and a location with no standing water during the winter and spring seasons. The better you prepare the soil before planting, the better the plant will grow for you but it will still grow in a medium to average soil-just with less flowers and fruit. Add animal manure, compost, seaweed kelp or the new coir soil conditioners; if the soil is on the sandy side; add Soil Moist Granules to help hold extra water during the first couple of years as the plant is getting established in your garden. Once the plant becomes established, it will become drought tolerant if you cover the ground around the plant with bark mulch, compost, or pine needles 3 inches thick, and this will also keep out weeds from growing around the plant.

If the plant is getting too large, it should be pruned as the flowers begin to fall from the plant in June and at that time you can cut the plant back by back by 20% but you will lose the fruit for the fall. You can also prune in the early spring before the plant begins to leaf out and flower by as much as 1/3 to 1/2 but you will lose the flowers and fruit for that year--it's your choice. With both types of pruning, the flowers and fruit will return the following year.

Now, this is a nice plant--but the plant breeders have played with this plant and have developed THREE new hybrids available this fall at your local nursery or garden center.  All three are part of the Proven Winners collection, so you know they are good.

The first is called Viburnum Dentatum 'Blue Muffin'--and this plant is known for the feast it will create for your birds. This new hybrid is a compact selection and will only grow 5 to 7 feet tall and just as wide when mature. It is also the hardiest of the three, tolerating temperatures down to minus 40 degrees. 'Blue Muffin' is the plant you need in your garden if you want to attract birds to your garden. The fruit is good for birds (but not for humans) and is deer resistant. Because of its size, it is easier to add to your garden because, unlike other varieties of viburnum, it does stay smaller.

The foliage is also different looking and is coarse to the touch. The edges of the leaf are serrated like the teeth of a saw; the shape is more oval, larger growing that the original plant and glossy green. You will also notice many lines or horizontal veins running from a center vein in the center of the leaf. The fall color is also different and can range from shades of yellow-orange to burgundy-purple on the plant. The unique character of this plant is that each plant can be different in the fall for color, so if leaf color is important to you, choose the plant in the fall when it has begun to color up with the cooler weather.

The flowers are a flat cluster of small creamy white flowers; each flower cluster is made up of small individual flower clusters like the original plant but they tend to grow wider and more open. When the berries form on the plant, they form in groups of 10 to 15 dusty blue berries that are less than 1/4 inch in diameter, like a pea. There can be as many as 5 to 10 fruit clusters that will make up the main berry cluster, making the plant showier. If this variety is planted with other varieties of viburnum, you will have more flowers because of cross pollination between the plants.

This plant will grow in most soils as long as they are well drained and away from standing water. Soil pH is not a problem with this plant for flowers and berry production and it will also grow in heavy clay-like soil. Of all the viburnums available today, this is the most durable! Prune the plant in the summer when it has finished flowering to control the size and shape of the plant. The flower buds form on old wood so prune any branches that have no berries on them so you can enjoy the fruit in the fall. Fertilize every spring with a slow release organic fertilizer like Plant Tone or Dr. Earth Shrub Fertilizer with pro-Biotic to encourage new shoots that will develop at the base of the plant and help to thicken the body of the plant.

Like the original, use for privacy hedges, noise barriers, and individual plants in a natural or wild setting for its flowers during early summer, dusty blue flowers in the fall and unusual fall color. Also, the flower does have an unusual smell and is a great source of nectar for butterflies. The small berries are perfect for attracting songbirds. No garden is complete without at least one!

The next hybrid is called 'Brandywine' viburnum. This plant produces berries that are considered the most beautiful berries in the plant kingdom. This is also another hybrid that will stay smaller than the original plant--growing 5 to 6 feet tall and just as wide. It is not quite as hardy, but will tolerate 20 degrees below zero. The berries will grow up to 1/2 inch in diameter, and the plant will produce large clusters filled with many brightly colored berries. The fruits begin with a deep green color during July and August but as the weather cools off they quickly change to shades of vivid pink and then a deep dusty blue. The fruit looks like a blueberry, with its dimple on the tip of the fruit and best of all, it will have both pink and bright blue berries on the plant at the same time for extra beauty. The skin of the berry does have a dusty look to it while parts of the berry are shiny looking giving a wonderful contrast to the fruit.

'Brandywine' viburnum will flower in April and May--a bit earlier than other varieties--and the flowers are also creamy white in color. The flower cluster is more rounded, grows 2 to 4 inches wide, and the flower is showy and fragrant. The flowers have a lot of nectar to them, attracting butterflies and hummingbirds when in bloom. When plants are well established, the plant can be almost covered with these wonderful flowers. This plant will set fruit without another variety of viburnum in your yard area--a plus for smaller gardens and yards.

The foliage is like the original plant; long and narrow like a rhododendron leaf and very shiny. The leaves will grow up to 4 inches long and are deep green with some raised veins on them for contrast. In the fall the showy glossy green leaves will change color to a wonderful maroon-red color and stay on the plant well into October--giving the plant a "WOW" factor. The berries will remain on the plant even after the foliage has fallen from the plant--and some years these berries will remain on the plant well into the winter. They are eaten by song birds but during the winter months provide you with excellent winter color.

No insect or disease problems with this variety and little to no maintenance is needed, except for occasional pruning to control the size and shape of the plant in your garden. You can use this viburnum in foundation planting around your home, in a perennial and shrub border, privacy hedges, noise barriers, and it will do very well when planted along the road, as it will tolerate road salt and windy areas. The plant will do best in a well-drained soil but will tolerate moist soil or even boggy planting conditions--unlike other varieties.

Fertilize in the spring, prune when the flowers finish flowering to control size, and in cold climates, cover the base of the plant with bark mulch or pine needles to control weeds and help retain soil moisture during hot, dry summers. If you were to rate this plant it would get 5 stars for all it will do in your garden.

The third new variety, 'Cardinal Candy' viburnum, is known for its heavy crop of shiny scarlet fruit in late summer that lasts into the fall. This hybrid is very hardy; it will tolerate minus 30 degrees and will do very well near the ocean or lake with lots of wind on the plant. It does grow larger than the other two hybrids--6 to 8 feet tall and just as wide. But you can prune the plant to control the size easily. Prune after the flowering cycle or early in the spring if the plant needs a major haircut to control the size of the plant. The plant will grow very dense and is freer branching and bushier growing. It also tends to grow more upright but does keep its rounded shape on the top of the plant.

The flowers are creamy white and showy, producing large large rounded flower clusters up to 6 inches wide and tall on the tip of most of the branches. The flowers will last on the plant for 4 to 6 weeks, like most other viburnums, and the flower stems are thick and strong to hold the fruit upright on the plant. The flowers are fragrant and filled with nectar-attracted butterflies and hummingbirds while in bloom in your garden. The plant flowers from May into June.

When the flowers fade in late June the plant will produce large quantities of bright red berries. The number and quality of the berries that this new hybrid makes is remarkable. The berries will last long into the fall until the birds eat them--but they are not edible by humans. The individual fruits are under 1/2 an inch in diameter but the fruit cluster is up to 6 inches across in a mound, making the plant very showy and lasting on the plant well after the foliage has fallen from the plant. Some years, if birds are not active in your yard, the fruit can last until spring on the plant. This hybrid does not need a second plant as a pollinator to produce fruit like the 'Blue Muffin' does.

The foliage is a broad-oval shape and is much wrinkled with many rows of sunken veins on the leaf. It is also dark green and has coarse teeth like a saw blade on the edges. In the fall, the leaves turn a bright russet red color, making the plant very visible in your garden like the "Burning Bush," almost, except that it has large clusters of bright red shiny fruit all over the plant.

The 'Cardinal Candy' will grow best in a moist soil that is slightly acidic but it will grow in most soils if they are conditioned before planting. The more organic matter like animal manure, compost, seaweed kelp, or garden coir you add to the soil, the better the plant will do in the garden. Fertilize in the spring with a slow release organic fertilizer like Plant Tone or Dr. Earth Shrub and Tree fertilizer with Pro biotic. The plant is easy to grow as long as the soil is well drained and it is planted in a location in your yard with full sun to a bit of late-day shade. Always add 2 to 3 inches of bark mulch, compost or pine needles around the plant as a much to help keep moisture in the ground during hot, dry summers and to control weeds.

The plant is very strong and has no serious insect or disease problems. 'Cardinal Candy' is also very deer resistant, even when planted in a woodland-type garden. You will love this plant in your shrub border with evergreens like holly and rhododendrons, because of the flowers and bright red fruit it produces. Use this plant in your foundation planting for color from spring through fall. If you're looking to create a privacy screen or hide your neighbor's yard, this is your plant when planted in a row like a hedge. Also a great plant to use to kill road noise, to divide property instead of using a wooden fence and to create a background for a perennial or rose garden.

If you live on a wooded lot and want color, this is your plant; if you want winter color in your garden, this is your plant--and if you want a plant that looks like it just belongs there, no matter what time of the year it is, this is your plant. Enjoy!

 

 


"All work is as seed sown; it grows and spreads, and sows itself anew."

Thomas Carlyle

 

 

Shrimp salad, Lobster Salad or Crab Salad Stuffed Tomatoes

 

 

This is a recipe that my parents made on a hot day of summer so not to
Heat up the house any more and when tomatoes were red and plentiful.
This recipe will serve 4 people when you select large ripe tomatoes
From the garden.

 

Ingredients:

 

1 Pound of peeled cooked shrimp, 21 to 25 per pound, thawed if frozen
Tales removed and chopped into 1/2 inch pieces.

 

Or 1 pound of cooked Maine Lobster meat chopped into 1/2 inch pieces..

 

Or 1 pound of cooked crab meat chopped into 1/2 inch pieces.

 

1 stalk of celery, finely diced
1/4 cup of minced basil leaves
12 Kalamata olives, pitted and finely chopped
1 medium shallot, minced or 2 mounded tablespoons of red onion.
2 to 3 tablespoons of Mayonnaise,  to taste.
1 tablespoon of white vinegar
Fresh ground pepper to taste
Paprika powder for a bit of color

 

4 large ripe tomatoes, cored
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Cut the top 1/2 inch of the tomato, stem side off and carefully hollow out
The center of the tomato.  Be careful not to dig out the sides or bottom of the
Tomato, center only and drain all flesh, seeds and liquids from the tomato.

 

Now combine in a medium size mixing bowl all the ingredients: celery, basil , Shallot or red onion, mayonnaise, vinegar, pepper and either the shrimp, Lobster or Crab meat and stir to combine the ingredients.  Use an ice cream scoop to fill each Tomato, a generous 1/2 cup of the salad mix, and garnish with a fresh sprig of Parsley and sprinkle a bit of Paprika for a bit of color. 
This can be made ahead of Time and refrigerated for a day in the tomato.  Cover with plastic wrap while in the Refrigerator and serve when cold.  Place on a a bed of lettuce when you serve.

 

We also made a large toss salad with all the fresh vegetables from the garden
To eat with the stuffed tomatoes and crusty bread. Enjoy
 
You can also stuff your tomatoes with Tuna salad or Chicken salad for people
Who do not like seafood.Enjoy!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 

 

 

              Garden Journal - A garden is a friend you can visit any time. Gardens require planning and cultivation, yielding beauty and joy. This garden journal helps make planning and organizing easy. This book makes a great gift for gardeners, family, friends, birthdays, Christmas, new home or as a self purchase.

Cover holds a 5 x7 or 4x6 photo, Heavy-duty D-ring binder

1. 8 tabbed sections
2. 5 garden details sections with pockets for seeds, tags....
3. Weather records page
4. 6 three year journal pages
5. Insect & diseases page - 3 project pages
6. 3 annual checklist pages
7. Plant wish list page
8. 2 large pocket pages
9. Sheet of garden labels
10. 5 garden detail sheets
11. 5 graph paper pages for layouts
12. 5 photo pages holds - 4- 4x6 photos in landscape or portrait format

Journal, Planning, Inspirations. 

 To Order call 207-985-6972

Regular price $34.95  Special Price $29.95! Limited supply!!


 
  
Telephone:
(207)985-6972
(207)590-4887 cell
(855)660-4261 Sunday Morning(6AM to 10AM)
 
Fax:
(207)985-6972
 
Regular Phone Hours:
(207)985-6972
Mon-Sat  9AM to 5 PM
Sunday:12 pm to 5 PM
  

Visit Bonide

Let Dr. Earth assist you with all of  your organic gardening needs!

Logo
Be Sure To Visit Dr. Earth
 

 






Private Property Consultation 
with Paul Parent:  Call  207-590-4887 


Book now!
Paul have a few open dates for September, 2014
Paul Parent Garden Club | (207) 590-4887 |   GardenClub@paulparent.com  | 

*How to print article's from our Newsletter -  Constant contact does not allow us to print articles one at a time
 

Do not use the "Print" icon unless you want to print the whole web page or email. Instead, follow the next steps.

Select the text you want on a web page where there is a story, paragraph, or a few lines that you want to print. Left-click on the mouse at the beginning and drag across to the end of the text you want and release. While the text is selected (highlighted), go to the top menu line and click "File" / "Print", in the print window that shows. Put a dot in the radio button for "Selection," and then click the OK or Print button. Some printers need you to select apply .

Do the same for emails. If you want to print a joke or article that you receive, do not click the Print icon. Select the text as above and use the "File" / "Print" menu and click "Selection", click OK or "Print".

Try another way to do a print job for text only. This involves selecting the text you want as above; then right click, copy and right click, paste to a word processor or even Wordpad (located in "Start" / "Programs" / "Accessories" / "Wordpad") and print from there. This method will produce a copy with no extra information. 

Subscribe to our mailing list.  Free

Join Our Mailing List

 

  Written by Paul Parent                         Produced by Christine Parent


Copyright 2014 All Rights Reserved.