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September 17, 2016
NY Drinks NY, Classic stats, another new law, Grape Discovery Center, Isabella at Sonnenberg, Hoosier wine store, and more from New York wine country.
Cheers!
Jim Trezise
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NY Drinks NY
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Long Island was the destination this week for a group of New York City sommeliers, wine store merchants, and media representatives under our NY Drinks NY program. This is the first part of the "exchange program" under which we bring people to the regions to see the geography, meet the people, and taste the wines where they're made. The second part, in March, is when we bring winery representatives into New York City for various marketing opportunities and the "Grand Tasting" for media, trade, and consumers.
Marissa Ain and Rich Dreher escorted the group, which included representatives from The Ritz-Carlton Central Park, Ardesia Winebar, Alta Linea, Eastside Cellars, Piora, Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels NYC, Palate Trip, Saxon + Parole, and others.
As a couple of the travelers put it: "Tremendous job Marissa and Rich! Have such a better sense of Long Island wines now...even bought some more today!...."Thanks for this amazing trip! I learned so much and really enjoyed sharing the experience with all of you."
The two-day tour included visits to 10 wineries, with private tastings at each stop highlighting their special wines, as well as a dinner. Participating wineries included Bedell, Channing Daughters, Kontokosta, Lenz, Lieb, Macari, Palmer, Paumanok, Raphael, and Wolffer Estate.
The NY Drinks NY program has had tremendous success in finally getting a significant presence of New York wines into New York City, the world's toughest market. We're grateful to the Genesee Valley Regional Market Authority and the Department of Agriculture & Markets for the grants that have made this program possible.
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Classic Numbers Reflect Industry Trends
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The New York Wine & Food Classic, held every August, is always a huge project beautifully organized by Teresa Knapp, with lots of help from our other staff members Susan Spence, Dana Alexander, Jenn Cooper, and Kim Hughes. (I just stay out of the way so I don't mess things up!) It's also inspiring to see how dramatically New York wines are improving every year, and educational to see what is being made and where.
The statistics from the Classic are just that, and since not all New York wineries enter and there are a lot more New York wines, a direct extrapolation is not possible. But the numbers do reflect some clear trends.
Of the total 968 entries, 476 (49.2%) came from the Finger Lakes, 245 (25.3%) from Long Island, 63 (6.5%) from the Hudson River Region, 57 (5.9%) from Lake Erie, 1 from the Niagara Escarpment, and 126 (13.0%) from other regions. These numbers generally reflect the relative production levels of the various regions, but also the propensity to enter competitions.
In terms of labeling by American Viticultural Areas (AVA's) which also have sub-appellations, wines labeled "North Fork of Long Island" (229) dominated, with only 15 labeled "Long Island" and 1 "Hamptons-Long Island". By contrast, wineries in the Finger Lakes are far more likely to use that designation (406) than "Seneca Lake" (27) or "Cayuga Lake" (13), reflecting the general belief that "Finger Lakes" is the far more recognized "brand" among consumers and the trade.
Among types of wine, white wines dominated with 442 entries (49.7%), with a strong showing of red (297, or 33.4%), followed by a huge drop-off to dessert wines (62, or 7%), blush/rose (52, or 5.8%), and sparkling (36, or 4%). Not surprisingly, Riesling had the most entries (133) broken down among Dry (47), Medium Dry (45), Medium Sweet (32), and Sweet (9). Chardonnay was the second largest category (83), with 47 oaked and 36 unoaked, which are become more common and popular.
Red vinifera varietal wines were dominated by Cabernet Franc (63) followed by Merlot (44), Cabernet Sauvignon (30), Pinot Noir (22), and Lemberger (9). The vinifera red blend category was strong, with 54; and vinifera blush/rose had 39, showing a continuing increase in production of that popular type of wine.
While we unfortunately don't have data from all 30 Classics, there is no doubt that the industry has changed dramatically, not just in terms of vastly improved quality but also in terms of the mix of wines. Whereas once Native and hybrid-based wines represented a solid majority, they are now a tiny portion of the entries. And, happily, many of the wines that do will in our Classic also shine brightly in other competitions around the country and world.
Thanks to the wineries which entered the Classic, and enter others as well. You are spreading the reputation of New York as a premier wine region.
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Free Run... | |
We had something special to toast at Wednesday's New York Farm Day celebration in Washington: a new law allowing farm wineries, breweries, and cideries to sell any New York-made alcoholic beverage by the glass at their production facility or off-site branch store. Until now, farm manufacturers could only sell products by the glass that they produced on site.
This will give consumers more options at the locations which choose to benefit from this change, which will likely attract more visitors and increase their revenues through greater sales. While there is already significant collaboration among the different beverage producers, this new law is very likely to increase it.
New York is by the most forward-looking state when it comes to promoting farm-based craft beverages and stimulating collaboration among their producers. We thank Senator Patty Ritchie and Assemblyman Bill Magee for sponsoring this bill, and Governor Andrew Cuomo for signing it into law. This is yet another example of the suggestions that originated with the ABC Working Group coordinated by State Liquor Authority Chairman Vincent Bradley.
Another recently signed law, sponsored by Senator Cathy Young and Assemblyman Andrew Goodell of the Lake Erie Region, allows the Grape Discovery Center to sell wines by the bottle, as well as by the glass as in the past.
The Center, just outside of Westfield, is primarily an educational facility focusing on the local grape, grape juice, and wine industry, with a strong emphasis on Concord grapes that represent over 90% of acreage and production. Part of the education involves tasting locally made products and, if one wishes, now purchasing them as well.
"Isabella" is a historic grape variety in New York State, and recently an Isabella grape vine was planted at the elegant Sonnenberg Gardens in Canandaigua. Though the grape's origins are unknown, it is one of the oldest grapes to be cultivated in the eastern United States.
The vine was donated by John Brahm, owner of Arbor Hill Grapery & Winery in Naples at the south end of Canandaigua Lake, and an authority on local wine history. Arbor Hill also makes award-winning wines from many unique grape varieties not grown elsewhere. Isabella is most often a luscious, light-bodied pink wine with strawberry and other fruit flavors.
"New York Wines" are now featured in TV ads by some great wine stores like Ryan's Wine & Spirits in Canandaigua and Marketview Liquor in Rochester, both of which have received our "Retailer of the Year" award in the past. I know this shouldn't sound like a big deal--after all they're both in or near wine country--but not so long ago this never happened. It's a sign both of their enlightened support and the fact that consumers are now asking for New York wines due to all the awards and publicity.
Meanwhile, in the Hoosier State, one of the great guys who served on the "Pit Cru" at this year's Indy International Wine Competition has been featuring New York wines in his store--Vino Villa in Greenwood, a suburb of Indianapolis. Jim Lizon, who was one of the servers on my panel, arranged a special tasting of wines from Boundary Breaks, Red Newt, and Wagner to show his customers just how great Finger Lakes wines are.
Adirondack Winery recently won a Double Gold medal with its 2015 "Story Teller" Baco Noir at the New York World Wine & Spirits Competition. Great news for the winery responsible for America's newest AVA, Champlain Valley.
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Words on Wine... | |
"'Twas Noah who first planted the vine, and amended his morals by drinking its wine."
--Benjamin Franklin
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