May 21, 2016

 

             A major 40th anniversary, more nice ratings, New York wines abroad, a great new wine and cider bar,  and more happening in New York wine country.

 

             Cheers!          

             Jim Trezise

The Farm Winery Act: 40 Years to Celebrate 

 

                The first major law that demonstrated the importance of a positive business climate to the growth of the New York grape and wine industry was enacted 40 years ago: The Farm Winery Act of 1976.

 

                 It was a lifeline for struggling grape growers, a stimulus for industry growth, and a major event in the development of the modern New York wine industry.

 

                 In the late 1970's, New York's many winegrape growers were hit by a perfect storm: major changes in corporate ownership of the large wineries, a flood of cheap subsidized imported wines, and changes in consumer tastes.  Prices for grapes were plummeting, and the market was drying up. 

 

                At that time, all wine grapes from independent growers went to a handful of large wineries, most in the Finger Lakes.

 

                 The Farm Winery Act created another option: Make and sell your own wine.  It had to contain 100% New York-grown grapes (not necessarily your own, however), and at first the annual limit was 50,000 gallons (now 250,000 gallons), but you could sell your wines directly to consumers, as well as directly to restaurants, wine retailers, and of course wholesalers.

 

                 This was new freedom: Until then, wineries could sell only 5% of their wine directly to consumers, with the rest having to go through wholesalers (i.e. at half price).  For small farm wineries, this was economically infeasible.  The annual license fee for farm wineries was also reduced to $125, compared to $625 for wineries.

 

                  Benmarl Winery, then owned by the late Mark Miller, who was instrumental in the Act's passage, was granted Farm Winery License #1, and others quickly followed, like Glenora Wine Cellars and Wagner Vineyards on opposite sides of Seneca Lake.  John Dyson, owner of Millbrook Vineyards in the Hudson Valley and Commissioner of Agriculture at that time, also opened a farm winery, as did Jim Doolittle of Frontenac Point Vineyard who was deeply involved in the process as well.

 

                 With their success, others soon followed, and the new New York wine industry began taking shape.  Parallel to this development was the introduction of traditional vinifera (European) varietals like Riesling and Pinot Noir by Dr. Konstantin Frank, which many of the new farm wineries embraced.

 

                  In 1976, before the Farm Winery Act was passed, New York had 14 wineries in 9 counties.  By 1985, when the New York Wine & Grape Foundation was created, there were 54 wineries in 14 counties.  Today, there are 418 in 53 of the State's 62 counties.

 

                 Beyond the growth this law stimulated, it also clearly demonstrated the vital importance of a good business climate.  In this agricultural industry, we are always talking about the climate, because you need a good climate to grow good grapes that make great wine.  But too often people forget that you also need a good business climate to grow an industry.

 

                  Thanks first to the Farm Winery Act, then the creation of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation and several other pieces of legislation a decade later, and more recently the numerous changes initiated by Governor Andrew Cuomo, today we have the best business climate in New York's winegrowing history--which goes back to 1839!

 

                 And the industry is growing like never before.

 

                  Cheers!

 

                              
More Accolades for New York Wines

                   Wine Spectator's June edition includes a nice little piece about Wolffer Kitchen on Long Island as part of  small section on where to dine in Long Island Wine Country.  And Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard gets kudos for four of its Rieslings: 91 each for 2014 Riesling HJW Vineyard, and 2014 Riesling Magdalena Vineyard; and 90 each for 2014 Dry Riesling Reserve, and 2014 Late Harvest Riesling Josef Vineyard.

 

                   It wasn't long ago that none of the major wine publications would pay any attention to New York wines, but now they do so regularly.  In fact, in a recent Wine Press I reported on an unprecedented situation: In the same week, many New York wines received scores of 90 or above in Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Wine Enthusiast, Wine Spectator, and Wine & Spirits.  We've come a long way, baby!

 

                   Tastings.com has also grown fond of New York wines, with Arrowhead Spring Vineyard Winery in the Niagara Escarpment a favorite: 96 for 2012 Cabernet Franc, 91 for 2012 Meritage Reserve, and 90 for 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon.  Heron Hill also has done well, with 94 for 2014 Riesling, 93 for 2014 Riesling, and 91 each for 2013 Late Harvest Riesling and 2013 Eclipse Red.  Other scores went to Wagner 2014 Riesling (93), and Johnson Estate 2014 Chancellor (90).

 

                  The Los Angeles International Wine Competition was held this week, but results won't be available until June 1.

 

                    

  Free Run...                             

                       Graft Wine + Cider Bar is a great new addition to the Watkins Glen culinary and nightlife scene, thanks to the Marks family which owns nearby Atwater Estate Vineyards, a winery on the southeast end of Seneca Lake.

 

                       Originally known as The Tasting Room when it first opened in 2013, Graft has a broader selection of beverages--now including local ciders as well as wines--and foods focused on local, seasonal, and creative.  Culinary Institute of America graduate Christina McKeough, who founded the Hazelnut Kitchen in Trumansburg (near Ithaca), is the chef, with an ever-changing menu ranging from small bites to multi-course meals.

 

                     Graft is conveniently located at 204 North Franklin St. (the main street) in Watkins Glen, open Tuesday through Saturday.  Stop in for a taste or two.

 

                      Alberta, Canada appears to be a promising market for New York wines, based on a tour this week by about 10 wine buyers from the Calgary area.  It was orchestrated by Susan Spence (NYWGF Vice President, who runs our export program), and really inspired  by Dan Mitchell of Fox Run Vineyards, who has been working that market for several years and is the perfect example of a collaborative person: Not only has he promoted Fox Run's wines, but Finger Lakes wines as well and even wines from other New York regions.

 

                      Diversity is our Strength.  Unity is our Power!

 

                      Several members of the group sent email after the trip saying how truly impressed they were with the region, the wines, and the spirit of the people; and they looked forward to educating their fellow citizens about it all.

 

                      This is really significant because Alberta has a private sector system for wine sales, as opposed to the government monopoly systems in Ontario and Quebec, which make it virtually impossible to sell New York wines in those markets.

 

                       We look forward to working with our friends in Alberta.      

 

 Words on Wine...                             
 
        "Wine is liquid food."
                                                           --Robert Mondavi
  
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