November 29, 2014

            Strong wine industry growth, more New York Gold, harvest recap, a great new book, and more from New York wine country.

             Cheers!          

             Jim Trezise

400 New York Wineries...?

                   The accelerating growth of the New York wine industry is something to behold, most recently when data from the New York State Liquor Authority indicates there are now 390 licensed wine producers in 58 of New York's 62 counties, with 9 licenses pending.  Given the SLA's expedited licensing system, those 9 might become active within a month, and--who knows?--another couple may begin the process.  So it's possible that we'll have 400 wineries going into 2015.

                    Some perspective: Since January of this year, 37 new wineries have opened, and since January 2013 the number totals 55.  And none of this includes the 67 "branch offices" (remote tasting rooms of farm wineries).

                    This strong growth reflects the warm business climate that now prevails in New York, thanks to Governor Andrew M. Cuomo and his Administration, acting in concert with a State legislature which also understands the incredible value of the wine industry.  Senator Patty Ritchie and Assemblyman Bill Magee, who chair the Agriculture committees, have been great champions, as have many of their colleagues.  From regulatory and legislative changes to major new promotional initiatives, the new business climate has instilled confidence in the industry's future, luring new investors.  As one example, two of the world's most iconic winemakers--Paul Hobbs from California and Johannes Selbach from Germany--have teamed up in a joint venture to produce Riesling and other wines in the Finger Lakes.

                     A huge amount of credit must go to the SLA under the leadershp of Chairman Dennis Rosen.  Special Counsel Tom Donohue was instrumental in drafting the recently approved legislation to stimulate further industry growth; and Director of Licensing Kerri O'Brien and her crew have drastically reduced the time required to obtain a winery license.

                     It only makes good business sense: The faster the licenses are issued, the faster jobs are created, investments are made, tourists are visiting, and the State is collecting excise and sales taxes.

                     Why didn't people get this before?!

                    Our good friend Doug Frost, one of very few people in the world who hold both Master Sommelier and Master of Wine degrees, runs the esteemed Jefferson Cup competition, an invitation-only contest including some of the country's best wines.  So winning a Jefferson Cup, a Jefferson Cup Nomination, or awards of Excellence and Merit are significant accomplishments.

                   New York wines have traditionally done well, and this year is no exception, bringing home 3 JC's, 14 JC Nominations (similar to Double Gold), 36 Awards of Excellence (like Gold), and 45 Awards of Merit.

                   The Jefferson Cup awards went to Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2012 Semi-Dry Riesling; Fox Run Vineyards 2011 Riesling 12, Hanging Delta Vineyard; and Hunt Country Vineyards 2013 Vidal Blanc Ice Wine.

                   The Nominations were given to Belhurst 2013 Dry Riesling and Naturel Sparkling; Chateau Frank 2008 Blanc de Noirs, 2008 Brut, and 2009 Blanc de Blancs; Dr. Frank 2013 Rkatsiteli; Knapp 2013 Semi-Dry Gewurztraminer and 2013 Pinot Gris; Lakewood 2013 Glaciovinum; Lamoreaux Landing 2013 Gewurztraminer and 2013 Semi-Dry Riesling; Penguin Bay 2013 Vidal Blanc Ice Wine; Sheldrake Point 2013 Gewurztraminer; and Swedish Hill 2013 Riesling.

                     Receiving Awards of Excellence were Anthony Road 2013 Semi-Dry Riesling; Belhurst Isabella and 2013 Semi-Dry Riesling; Chateau Frank Celebre, and Celebre Rose; Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2012 Dry Riesling and 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Owner's Reserve; Dr. Frank 2013 Gewurztraminer, 2013 Semi-Dry Riesling, and 2013 Pinot Gris; Fox Run 2013 Dry Riesling and 2013 Semi-Dry Riesling; Glenora 2013 Dry Riesling, 2005 Brut, 2014 Riesling Ice Wine, and 2012 Meritage; Goose Watch 2013 Finale White Port, 2013 Pinot Grigio, and 2013 Viognier; Hunt Country 2013 Late Harvest Vignoles and 2012 Cabernet Franc; Lakewood 2013 Abby Rose and 2013 Valvin Muscat; Lamoreaux Landing 2012 Unoaked Chardonnay and 2013 Riesling, Red Oak Vineyard; Liberty Vineyards Cat Noir, and Reds, Whites & Blues; Rooster Hill 2013 Dry Riesling and 2013 Semi-Sweet Riesling Reserve; Sheldrake Point 2014 Riesling Ice Wine, 2014 Riesling Ice Wine (Wild Ferment), and 2013 Riesling; Swedish Hill 2013 Dry Riesling; Wagner Vineyards 2012 Dry Riesling, Caywood East Vineyard, 2013 Riesling Select, and 2012 Semi-Dry Riesling. 

                      Doug Frost, M.W., M.S., is also a judge at our New York Wine & Food Classic, as well as a magical mixologist--not to mention just a fun guy.

                       Chris Gerling of Cornell Cooperative Extension, who co-edits the Veraison to Harvest weekly newsletter each fall, has a wonderful way with words, and the final edition was a good example:

                       "From Official Disaster to Region of the Year: Just Another New York Wine Season" was the title of his lead article which provided a great overview of a pretty crazy year that ultimately turned out good to great, depending on location and variety.  And early in the article: "...we are also looking at one of the more amazing comeback stores you will find this side of a Disney movie.  In fact, if what just happened had been part of a movie, I would criticize the movie for not being realistic."

                        There are some years, like 2013, when weather patterns across the whole state are very much the same, resulting in quantity and quality that are similar from Lake Erie to Long Island.  This year was dramatically different, and highly localized, even within regions.

                        For Long Island, it was a great year from start to finish, another in a series.  The Hudson Valley also dodged the "polar vortex" events and, despite a few ups and downs, ended up with an excellent harvest as well.

                        In the upstate regions--Finger Lakes, Niagara, Lake Erie, North Country--the multiple, lingering deep freezes that actually froze the Great Lakes clearly had an effect on crop size.  However, it was very localized, even within regions or on lakes, and in the end there were more grapes than expected, especially  in the Lake Erie region where two-thirds of all New York grapes are grown (95% Concords for grape juice).

                         The icing on the cake: September, which was about as perfect as it could be, resulting in superb quality across the board.

                          The "divine juice of September", as Voltaire called it, is now in the tanks and barrels, and we look forward to tasting the resulting elixir starting in a few months. 

                        Richard Figiel is a long-time veteran of the New York wine industry, both as a winegrower, having established Silver Thread Vineyard in 1982, and as an editor and author of wine-focused literature.  And now he has written "Circle of Vines: The Story of New York Wine".

                         Typical of Richard, the book is impeccably researched, fascinatingly interwoven in terms of key events and personalities, and easy to read. From the amazing geologic events that shaped New York State, through the onset and then repeal of Prohibition, right up to the present, he traces the industry's evolution resulting from entrepreneurs and "revolutionaries" who dramatically transformed the New York wine landscape over the years.  It is also a vivid reminder of how much risk, struggle, disappointment, commitment, determination and hope have gone into where New York is today.

                          The current Wine & Spirits edition gives it a glowing review as well, and it would be a perfect holiday gift this year.  It's available at Amazon, Barnes & Noble, and some local book stores and wine shops.

"All wine associations are with occasions when people are at their best; with relaxation, contentment, leisurely meals, and the free flow of ideas."