September 13, 2014

             Harvest gets going, grape juice goes to school, new 90's, Hudson Valley winners, new law explained, kudos for Kelby and Nicole, and more from New York wine country

             Cheers!          

             Jim Trezise

 Let the Harvest Begin!

                   Actually, it already has begun, with early ripening varieties off the vines, into bins, onto flatbed trucks, and finally into fermentation tanks at wineries. (The harvest of juice varieties like Niagara and Concord will begin later.)  As always, there is significant variation by region, but fortunately we have the weekly e-blast, "Veraison to Harvest" from Cornell Cooperative Extension, to keep us up to date.

                   On Long Island, it has been a dry year so far, but with total heat for the year, measured in Growing Degree Days (GDD's), slightly lagging levels of the past two years--though that could change rapidly with a stretch of hot weather.  At the recent Governor's Cup Tour on Long Island, a few growers and winemakers smilingly said that this could be another superb year.  The Hudson Valley has also been dry, with a recent heat spell speeding the ripening process.  Neither of the downstate regions were affected by the severe winter weather.

                   The Finger Lakes and North Country regions, by contrast, did suffer some damage specific to exact location and grape variety, but in the Finger Lakes at least it appears to be more like a one-year crop reduction than vine loss that is far more catastrophic.  Overall, the native grapes like Concord and Niagara, as well as most hybrid varieties, seemed to fare well, while the European (vinifera) grapes will be less plentiful than normal.  The pace of harvest is slightly behind the average, and again the weather can change all that in a hurry.

                    The Lake Erie region, where two-thirds of all New York grapes are grown, the severe winter did less damage so the Concord grape crop should be one of good size, with the harvest likely to begin in late September or early October.

                     Fall is a very exciting time of you in grape country, with sounds, sights, and smells of harvest pleasing all the senses.                     

                    New York Senators Kirsten Gillibrand and Charles Schumer have once again come through for the grape industry, and for school kids, by encouraging the U.S. Department of Agriculture to purchase surplus grape juice for the school nutrition programs.

                     The Concord and Niagara grape harvest of 2013 was the largest on record, and this year's is also shaping up to be a potentially big one as well, meaning that an oversupply would send grape prices down, hurting growers.  USDA's purchase helps stabilize prices while at the same time providing a natural, healthy beverage to school children.

                      About two-thirds of all New York grapes grown are Concords from the Lake Erie region in the far western part of the state, meaning this development will benefit the regional agricultural economy.  Washington State is an even larger producer of juice grapes, so benefits will be felt there as well, since the USDA purchase is nationwide.

                      Wine & Spirits magazine awarded several scores of 90 or above to a variety of New York wines in its October edition.

                       In the "Year's Best Chardonnay" section, Dr. Konstantin Frank 2011 Finger Lakes Reserve Chardonnay and Domaine Le Seurre 2012 Finger Lakes Unoaked Cuvee Classique Chardonnay each received 90 points.

                       In the "New Releases" section, kudos went to Knapp 2013 Finger Lakes Dry Riesling (91, and "Best Buy"), Damiani 2011 Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc (90), and Wolffer Estate 2012 Long Island Diosa Lake Late Harvest (90).

                       So far this year, that totals 35 scores of 90 or above from Wine & Spirits, compared with 5 from Wine Spectator, and 54 from Wine Enthusiast.  Over the past four years, the totals are 108 from Wine & Spirits, 107 from Wine Enthusiast, and 57 from Wine Spectator.

                        New York wines have also won 615 Gold medals or above this year in major competitions, with several more competitions still to come.

                        Quality is our goal, always.

                       Millbrook Vineyards & Winery was named Winery of the Year, and Clinton Vineyards Embrace (a dessert wine) the "Best in Show" wine at the recent 2014 Hudson Valley Wine & Spirits Competition. Millbrook also won Best Red Wine (2012 Proprietor's Special Reserve Cabernet Franc), and Clinton won Best Sparkling Wine with its Seyval Naturel.   

                       Robibero Family Vineyards also showed very well with the Best White Wine (2013 87 North) and Best Rose Wine (2013 New Yorkie). Best Fruit Wine was Baldwin Vineyards Apple Wine, Best Cider was Naked Flock Original, and Best Spirit went to Magnanini Winery Liqueur made with Grappa and Limone.               

                       Craft Beverage Law initiated by Governor Andrew Cuomo was the main subject of an industry conference this week at the New York Wine & Culinary Center.  But the conference also featured the great research being done by Cornell University in support of the New York wine, beer, spirits and cider industries, and a presentation by Sam Filler, director of the NYS Beverage Shop which is such a valuable resource for our industry.

                        State Liquor Authority Chairman Dennis Rosen and Special Counsel Tom Donohue have been tremendous partners with the industry, transforming that agency from being an adversary to an advocate within the parameters of their overall mandate.  They were largely responsible for crafting the new legislation which reduces costs, enhances productivity, and creates new marketing opportunities for the farm-based craft beverage industries.

                         We are truly lucky to have the best business climate in New York State's history.

                          Kelby Russell, the Winemaker at Red New Cellars in the Finger Lakes, made the cover of the current (October) Wine Enthusiast as one of the "40 Under 40" influential people in the beverage industry.  With previous experience at Fox Run Vineyards, plus stints in Australia and New Zealand, Kelby is a very talented winemaker making his mark at an early age.

                          Our craft spirits colleague Nicole Austin of Kings County Distillery also made the list, and in fact was in the center of the cover.

                          Congratulations to both!