August 31, 2013

             New York Wine & Cheese Pairing competition at the State Fair, Cow birthing center, New "Taste New York" initiatives, Hudson Valley gears up for fall, Niagara USA Wine magazine is out, Paumanok celebrates 30, and lots more happening in New York wine country.  Busy, busy...

             Cheers!          

             Jim Trezise

               Earlier today at the Great New York State Fair, I had the tasteful pleasure of joining a cheese expert and a restaurateur to suggest the best pairings of award-winning New York wines and a distilled spirit with award-winning New York cheeses, with both selections from State Fair competitions held earlier.

                The wines, spirits and cheeses were each in different taste/flavor/type categories. The "Best of Show" wines were Goose Watch Pinot Noir Brut Rose; Mazza Chautauqua Cellars 2012 Gewurztramner; Lucas Vineyards 2012 Dry Rose; Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2012 Cabernet Franc (which also took Best New York Red Wine at our New York Wine & Food Classic); Casa Larga Vineyards 2010 Fiori Delle Stelle Vidal Ice Wine; and Baldwin Strawberry Wine.  The best spirit was Hidden Marsh Distillery Queen's Flight Honey Brandy.  The cheeses were Camembert (sheep's milk) from Old Chatham Creamery (to die for); Aged Cheddar and Super Aged Cheddar from our partners McCadam Cheese; Provolone from Empire Cheese Company; Tomato Basil Cheddar from Palatine Valley Dairy; and Feta from Euphrates.

                In other words, our job was to taste all six cheeses with all seven beverages to determine the best matches.  It was fascinating.  On my sheet, every beverage had at least one pairing scored 10 ("Perfect"), and likewise for all the cheeses.  I was skeptical about brandy pairing with anything, but it was absolutely superb with the super aged cheddar and very good with most of the rest.  The gorgeous Cab Franc was the most consistent partner among cheeses, and in fact its match with super aged cheddar came in third and with the tomato basil cheddar second.

                 But the big, no, huge(!) surprise was the overwhelming favorite: Baldwin Vineyards Strawberry Wine with the Old Chatham Sheep's Milk Camembert.  All three of us gave that pairing a perfect 10, for a perfect 30.  In my view, the absolutely luscious fruit wine did not work with any of the cheddars, but this match was stunning.  And coincidentally, both products are from the Hudson Valley.

                  The State Fair team, especially the ever-bubbly Mary Ellen Chesbro along with Lynn Montgomery and Harvey Reisig, did a great job orchestrating this, and we'll certainly do it again next year.

               While I was there, I also had the opportunity to enjoy the new Taste NY Market right at the entrance of the Fair, where a broad selection of New York farm and processed products are sampled and sold; and to follow a Taste NY Trail to different venues at the Fair.  It's just the lastest example of the widespread marketing of the Taste NY brand, with much more to come in other venues.  For example, this week Governor Cuomo announced the opening of the first "Taste NY" store at the New Baltimore Thruway stop in the Hudson Valley, as well as a huge "Taste NY" tailgate party at the September 8 Buffalo Bills game. Future Taste NY stores will be opening at Thruway stops in central and western New York.

                Thanks to Governor Cuomo, Agriculture Commissioner Darrel Aubertine, Deputy Secretary for Agriculture Pat Hooker, Fair Director Tom Ryan and their many colleagues, this year's State Fair truly returned to its agricultural roots, rather than focusing on the midway and music (though both are still important).  There were lots of reminders that New York is a major farm state, including a cow birthing center where fairgoers could be five feet away from a calf being born under the watchful eye of experts from Cornell University.  The birthing center also featured a live web cam.

                I was also able to enjoy a glass of New York Riesling at the Empire Room, which under new management is truly, for the first time ever, showcasing New York beverages and foods. Finally, I can never go to the State Fair without having a (New York) beer and a great Gianelli hot italian sausage smothered with grilled peppers and onions.  Life is good.

          The historic Hudson Valley, with the country's oldest vineyard (Benmarl) and winery (Brotherhood), will kick off the harvest season with the annual Hudson Valley Wine & Food Festival on the weekend of September 7-8 at the Dutchess Country Fairgrounds.  It's also the scene of the annual Hudson Valley Wine Competition, with winners announced at the event.  As usual, lots of wineries from throughout the State, along with farm breweries, food producers, chefs, and crafts vendors will be on hand for the festive occasion. In addition, it appears that some very special guests will be joining us as well.  www.hudsonvalleywineandfoodfestival.com.

           "Veuve Clinton" is the title of a wonderful article in edible Hudson Valley about Clinton Vineyards, the late artist, pioneer, and bon vivant Ben Feder who created it, and his lovely and talented wife Phyllis Feder who brought it to new heights.  Clinton Vineyards (www.clintonvineyards.com)  is a small farm winery nestled in a charming corner of the beautiful landscape, and Ben's art work and sculptures are in evidence throughout.  He took the risk (and won!) of planting only Seyval vines, and made some wonderful table and sparkling wines with the grapes.  Phyllis added some elegant fruit wines, including cassis which, with the bubbly, makes an awesome New York Kir Royale.  Their wines were also given as gifts to all the guests who attended the wedding of Chelsea Clinton, and their occasional "Victory White" has been produced to celebrate elections of both Bill and Hillary Clinton. Phyllis also served as Chairperson of the Board of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation for four years, deftly navigating the organization through some very turbulent times.

              "Fall In Love With Hudson Valley Wine" is the theme and goal of the Hudson Valley Wine Council, which will be promoting over 100 special events at wineries, wine trails, and festivals throughout the fall, culminating with the Pride of New York Harvest Fest in Albany in late November.  The group will be sending weekly e-blasts, newswires, and Facebook and blog posts.

              The premier edition of Niagara USA Wine Magazine, which will appear twice a year, was recently released, celebrating the region's wineries, wines, and other craft beverages along the Niagara Wine Trail USA.

               Once a relatively large grape growing which largely disappeared a few decades ago, the greater Niagara region (which includes the Niagara Escarpment AVA) has recently become one of the fastest-growing wine regions in the state.  When legislation was passed about a decade ago creating the Niagara Wine Trail, there were two wineries--compared with 17 today.

                The first issue includes a feature story, "Destination: Niagara Wine Trail USA" by travel blogger Wendy Crispell with a fresh exploration of the region's wine, food, and must-see attractions.  The magazine has several other major articles on winemaking, wine and food, and the harvest. Niagara USA Wine Magazine is free and is distributed throughout western New York and major tourist destinations.  In addition, a full digital version is available online at www.niagarawinemag.com.

                 Another great new attraction in the region is the Niagara Falls Culinary Institute, right across from the falls, featuring local wines and foods as part of the curriculum of Niagara County Community College.            

                  Paumanok Vineyards, which will celebrate its 30th anniversary on September 28, fittingly received some great news this week: The Long Island winery is one of the nominees for American Winery of the Year in the coveted "Wine Star" awards of Wine Enthusiast magazine, which also recently touted Long Island as one of the world's top 10 wine country destinations and has recently been discovering more New York wines worthy of high ratings. Paumanok has long been one of Long Island's leading wineries, and the Anniversary Celebration will include a great culinary team led by the one and only Tom Schaudel, the chef/owner of four superb restaurants and a regular at our annual New York Farm Day celebration in Washington.  There are lots of other attractions, with more information available at www.paumanok.com.

                   "Wine-Lover's Guide to the Finger Lakes" is the title of a long and fabulous article by Lauren Mowery on Fodor's online. She basically lays out a four-day itinerary to visit wineries throughout the region, including recommendations of places to stay and to eat.  The piece also includes lots of great photos, including a stunning shot of Lamoreaux Landing leading the article off.  The Finger Lakes has clearly become one of the world's best known wine destinations, and for good reasons: great wines, local foods, and gorgeous scenery 

                    The Tasting Room by Atwater Vineyards is now officially open at 204 North Franklin Street in Watkins Glen, just a stone's throw from the fabulous Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel where we hold the New York Wine & Food Classic. Not only will the new store carry the full line of Atwater wines, but also wines from throughout New york State as well as hard cider, New York cheeses, and other New York products.  www.atwatervineyards.com.

                     Finger Lakes Distilling, just up the road (Route 414) from the Atwater winery on the east side of Seneca Lake, now offers special tours on Saturday which include a brief introductory video, a walking tour of the distillery, a sampling of three spirits, and a complementary Finger Lakes Distilling glass.  Finger Lakes Distilling, which makes McKenzie brand products, has won "Best Spirit" for several years at the New York Wine & Food Classic, including the McKenzie Rye this year and Seneca Drums Gin previously. www.fingelakesdistilling.com.