Lucas writes, "I was on a mission to prove that all of the worthwhile things about Vegas could be had without touching the 4.2-mile stretch of Las Vegas Boulevard between Sahara Avenue and Russell Road. In fact, I was hoping that getting away from the Strip would yield experiences that one wouldn't normally associate with Vegas, and I could see a side of the city most tourists miss.

Things had started out on a tricky note, though: Finding a cheap room was more difficult than I'd anticipated. I happened to pick a week that three of the biggest conventions of the year were in town. The fabled rock-bottom-priced opulence of Vegas I'd dreamed about - $20 or $30 for a nice hotel room - would be out of reach. Lesson learned: research conventions. 

Nevertheless, I landed a decent $70 rate at the California Hotel & Casino, one block from the Fremont Street Experience. (Many downtown hotels overlook Fremont. Do not book one of these rooms unless you are a heavy sleeper.) My room was spacious, clean and more than adequate for my needs. After checking in I made my way through Fremont and crossed into the Fremont East Entertainment District..."