Published by Ginkgo Press, the journal is available at many area stores, which are listed at wisconsinlocalfoodsjournal.com.]

Molten October 

By Terese Allen

What's the first adjective that comes to mind when you think of October? For me it's "crisp," as in crisp, cool air, crisp-crunchy leaves underfoot and a crisp, humidity-free blue sky.

But when it comes to October food, it isn't usually "crisp" I think of. I think of something warm and rich, smooth and soothing. Like melted cheese.

This is the month that finds me hauling out the fondue pot I've boarded in the back of my pantry since last winter. I bought it for a buck at a garage sale years ago, when fondue was out of fashion. It's still out of fashion, I guess, but who cares? At least once every fall my jolly red pot with its skinny, spear-like forks is the centerpiece of one the most relaxing meals I make.

A fondue meal is relaxing because all you have to do is slowly melt cheese, with minimal additions, over a low flame. Classic fondue features Gruyere or Emmenthaler cheese and dry white wine, plus chunky French bread for dipping-and I love it. But I also love to vary the main ingredients to feature whatever beckons to me at the farmers market or from other local sources.

It might be Hook's (South Pinckney St.) two-year white Cheddar and Ela Orchards' apple cider, for example. It might be Willi Lehner's (Bleu Mont Dairy, North Carroll St.) nutty Swiss and a dark brew from Ale Asylum.

The dunkables might be cubes of roasted butternut squash, slices of Honey Crisps, or wonky-looking Romenesco florets.

(Fondue variations can follow you wherever you go, whatever market you find yourself in. A couple of weeks ago I did a cooking demo of fondue on Washington Island, and featured all local ingredients: sharp yellow Cheddar from Renard's Cheese, brut hard cider from Island Orchard Cider and dried tomato sourdough from the Island Bread Company.)

There's another reason I find fondue relaxing: it's a dish of camaraderie. It has that casual, everyone-around-the-pot way of bringing people together. It turns dinner into a celebration. What could be warmer or richer than that?

Apple Cider Cheddar Fondue
From Wisconsin Local Foods Journal: Cheese Edition,
by Joan Peterson and Terese Allen  

Servings: 8  

If you don't own a fondue pot, use a heavy saucepan instead, and plan on gently reheating the cheese sauce once or twice during dinner.

Ingredients 

• 1 pound medium or sharp white Cheddar, finely diced
• 4 tablespoons flour
• 2 cups apple cider or hard cider
• 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1/8 teaspoon pepper

Directions 

1. Mix cheese and flour in a bowl.
2. Combine apple cider and lemon juice in fondue pot. Bring to very low simmer; do not let it boil. Add a handful of cheese and stir constantly until the cheese is fully melted.
3. Continue to add one handful of cheese, stirring constantly and melting the cheese fully before adding the next handful.
4. After all the cheese is fully melted, stir in pepper.   
5. Serve fondue with a basket of cubed bread and long forks for dipping.