FROM PETER'S DESK...

Our office in London has grown in its five years of operation from a small, two-case business to a thriving branch office. Kate Denham runs the office; she comes from a background in fashion design, and was recruited in May 2005 by Design Library owner Peter Koepke from a position with the Gallery of Antique Costume and Textiles, where she was engaged in recreating antique costumes and clothes for modern-day use.

The London office now contains over 30,000 designs; it's a carefully curated, constantly updated cross-section of the Design Library's main archive in New York's Hudson Valley, and just as immaculately categorized and easy to use.  

 
The studio is located in the heart of Soho, in the center of one of London's most artistic and innovative neighborhoods. "We are really positioned perfectly for easy access by our clients. Soho has traditionally been home to the creative industries and today, alongside the film and advertising offices, there are many independent tailors, theatrical fabric and vintage shops. We're also just around the corner from many independent clothing retailers."

Kate visits the main archive in the Hudson Valley, New York, several times a year to replace and replenish the collection; considerable time and effort is put into ensuring that the London archive is varied, extensive and relevant to our clients' needs. 

The Design Library's own John Hamilton

In 2010 the staff in London doubled with the addition of Design Consultant John Hamilton. 
 

"I'm thrilled to have John working with me - he brings a fresh, new eye to the archive, and as his role develops it will greatly enhance our capacity to serve our clients' needs."
 

The move to working with the Design Library has been a natural transition for Kate, reflecting as it does her passion for textiles. "I am constantly struck by the way that textiles have pervaded our lives, as clothing, furnishings and decoration, through the centuries. I love everything about them - the history, color, texture, techniques and most of all their beauty and the artistry that goes into their creation."

The Design Library's London consultants are available for meetings at your office or ours and can be contacted by phone at 0207 287 7336 or via email: kdenham@design-library.com or jhamilton@design-library.com.  

The challenge for anyone to choose a favorite category at the Design Library is daunting at best! Seven million designs. More than 1200 categories. Well, that was my assignment for this month's Design Library Newsletter.

After much thought and consideration, it was easier than I had previously thought. So, let's travel 9500 miles to the East and back in time almost 200 years to early 19^th century Japan and gaze in wonder at the beautiful art of Katagami.

Katagami is the formal name for the art of Japanese stencil design. Although this art can be traced back over a thousand years, the incredible collection that the Design Library has amassed dates from the 1800s and runs through to the 1950s. 
 

The resist dyeing process used with these stencils is known as katazome. The process starts with grinding the soft inner lining of Mulberry bark into a paste. Then add Kozo, the persimmon juice that acts to laminate and waterproof the finished stencil paper. Once mixed together, the paste is rolled into very thin sheets and allowed to dry. The richly colored paper is now ready to be carved and prepared for dyeing.

Separately, artists were busy creating wonderful designs that would be transformed into beautiful screen prints. Depending on the level of detail to the design, one or two sheets of mulberry paper would be used. The original artwork would be placed on top of the sheet and would be hand cut out. In the end, this part of the process would destroy the original artwork. For those designs needing two sheets, once the designs were cut out, the sheets were separated and individual silk threads were placed randomly on top of the bottom sheet. 
 

Close up detail of floral Katagami

A glue was then added and the top sheet was placed exactly on top of the bottom sheet thus creating one screen. The silk threads now aid in holding the screen together during the dyeing process.

From beautiful silk screens to ornate kimonos, Katagami designs are visible throughout Japanese culture. For those of you who have been to visit the Design Library since our recent expansion/ renovation you are aware of our "Japanese corner". It is truly one of the most inspiring sections of the library.
 

Men's shirt designed using Katagami as inspiration.