The holidays were over with nary a dusting of snow. But the first week of the year brought us a marvelous and rare dumping. The region is completely unprepared for snow. There are no plows ready to roll out, no salt distributors at the ready. As the flakes pile up, the roads come to a standstill and everything seems to fall apart. That is if you are out there a part of it all.

Once home from school (a normally 15 minute ride became a 2 1/2 hour odyssey), the children were thrilled to eat quickly and head back out to build snow men, slide down the short slopes (we're right by the river... so no hills in sight), make and throw snow balls. It was a grand afternoon. Leo and a friend set about making snow and maple syrup (there went my supply of that precious liquid....), and crepes (with all the eggs and milk in the house) for all. But who could complain? Snow days are a rare event in Southern France!

In November I mentioned the Aveyron cook book I was translating. Here is a very very nourishing dish famous to that region for a cold winter. After playing in the snow all afternoon, I made this for my happy and hungry crew. In place of a tome of cheese, you can use Swiss, or a white cheddar (somehow, orange strands of cheese seems just a bit too much for me). For Roquefort lovers, toss in a handful of roquefort at the end and swirl it through. This is truly a "stick to your ribs" feast.

Aligot: For 4

1 kg (2.2 lbs) potatoes 400 g (1 lb) fresh tome cheese 100 g (1/2 cup/1 stick) butter, 250 g thick crème fraîche (sour cream), 1-2 garlic cloves (up to you) crushed and chopped,

Peel the potatoes and quarter them. Then put them into a large sauce pan filled with salted water. Bring to a boil and let cook for 20 minutes. Check for tenderness with a knife.

Drain and rice the potatoes into a heavy bottomed saucepan, over a low flame, incorporate the butter, the cream, and the garlic. Mix well with a wooden spoon. Before serving, mix in the cubed tome cheese, mixing always in the same direction. The aligot is ready to serve when you lift the spoon and a ribbon of melted cheese clings to the potatoes.

In the Aveyron, there are no great feasts without an Aligot. The Aligot is served very hot, and its preparation must be timed so the guests can participate. Invite your guests to help mix and test for the ribbon of cheese. The Aligot was born in Aubrac, and is now a staple on all the tables of the Aveyron. Try fresh grilled sausages alongside.

It is a time for pruning -- and teaching the art of pruning. Jean Paul Cabanis, our local organic vintner, takes time out from his own vines to teach local (and visiting) workers, this fine art -- no matter the frost on the ground!. The workers must know how many possibilities of new buds to leave on the branches, and not simply snip off randomly the growth of the year before. And, they need to go quickly, both for their own sake (though it's not a Canadian winter here, it can nonetheless be quite cold) and the hovering vintner's.

In the cellar, it is a time to contemplate the blends for this year's wines. At Domaine Cabanis, the varietals grown on the property are grenache, carignan, mourvedre, syrah, (reds) and viognier and clairette (whites). Each year, there are six wines to be made - the base line red (vin de pays d'oc), the "heart" of the six, the red Tradition AOC Costieres de Nimes, the special cuvee, either a Jardin Secret (syrah dominant) or? one Rose (AOC) and in most years two whites - a vin de pays, and the AOC.

Next week, we'll spend the day with the oenologist, sampling from each tank of wine, testing blends, with the goal of deciding how, which, and why for each of the above. We've a new element to play with this year: perhaps a pure mourvedre.

Each year has its surprises, and gifts. The Mourvedre was particularly good this year, abundant and concentrated and in perfect health. Domaine Cabanis does not age in wood (as the Bandol region, well known for their Mourvedre wines always does). So this shall be an interesting wine. Often masculine in notes, sous-bois, velvety in the mouth, scents of the garrigue (scrub brush hills of Provence). hmmm.

The Millesime Bio organic wine fair is in two weeks. There we'll be meeting with importers and wine buyers from all over the world. Perhaps you know an importer who's coming? Do send him to the Domaine Cabanis stand -- number 18. We'll be there.

I grew up in the Northeast of the United States, going to a Protestant church, singing carols throughout the month of December, lighting Advent candles, hanging my stockings by the fire place, and watching the annual Christmas specials such as the Drummer Boy or Santa Claus is Coming to Town. And, for most of the years that I've lived in Provence, I've gone back home to New York for Christmas. But this year, we decided to hold tight, and spend the night of Christmas in our Avignon home.

I decorated with a tree, an Advent wreath (not a local tradition, but available at the kids' Waldorf school), a creche (very much a local tradition), candles, greenery, music on the cd player. I broke the local tradition by serving meat on Christmas Eve -- If I were a good Catholic of Provence, it would have been a repas maigre, with at most a salt cod dish. The night before feast day, is a lean night, and no meat should be present according to local lore. Curiously on Christmas day, it is now a tradition to serve Turkey (from the new world) with Chestnuts (from the old world). This is preceded and followed by a multitude of rich dishes, salad, cheeses, and probably over-cooked vegetables, (depending on the household). For dessert, the buche or yule log cake rules the day. Each home has its version (or purchases one... which is more and more the case once Gramma/Mamie stops baking).

However, beyond the food rituals, it is the way gifts are exchanged that most struck me this year. There are no presents under the tree till the morning of Christmas. And, no stockings. The gifts are addressed to the children, but with no "from" labels. Whether they are from your aunt, or your brother or your grandmother or your neighbor.. it is not a tradition to mention this to the children, and as such, thank you notes are not expected from this special holiday which is 'for the children".

Ok, perhaps I had a particularly strict Protestant upbringing. My mother would write a list each year of who gave what to whom and then set us to work writing thank you notes, ideally on Christmas day, but at least by the end of the holidays.... But here, at least for the children, these gifts are offered with no strings attached... "gratuits". But the joy in the eyes of the children is the same the world over!

As some of you know, my house in Avignon is available to rent in the summer, and during certain school vacations. It is located just 5 minutes from Avignon center, yet in the full countryside. It is on the island in the middle of the Rhone, surrounded by wheat fields and fruit orchards.

It has 3-4 bedrooms, a comfortable kitchen, outdoor terrace, garden, pool and all the necessary comforts. I leave the kitchen well stocked in spices, salt, coffee, pasta, olive oil, etc., as well as the vast majority of my cooking supplies, dishes, utensils etc., So, a good place for cooks.

There's a farm with fresh vegetables, eggs, honey around the corner (an easy bike ride), the local market every Thursday and Friday evening, and a ferry boat which crosses the Rhone every half hour during high season to the base of the rock upon which the Pope's garden sits. I've planted basil, thyme, rosemary, lemon verbena, lemon balm and absynthe to flavor your dishes. And, a bunch of strawberry plants for the lucky early riser to pick through.

Ideally, I rent it for the full month of July to theater goers (for the world reknowned Festival d'Avignon), and by the week in August. Should you be interested, the link to the page with more information is here below.

Though our new web site is not yet up to showcase the possibilities we'd like to offer you this spring and in the future, let me assure you that Erick is offering cooking classes upon request in his wonderful kitchen in Arles. The prices are as noted on the "Personalized Provence" Page of the web site. 250E for 1-2 people for a class; and for 3 or more persons, 100E/person for the full 3 hour class with 4 or more dishes, meal to follow accompanied by wines and cheeses of the region. You can reach Erick at actvedel@wanadoo.fr

As for myself, I am thrilled to continue doing what I love most about my life in Provence. I am offering my services as your local guide in Provence on a per diem basis (300E/not including food/gas). Amongst the many day-trip possibilities I would like to offer: behind-the-scenes' visits to food artisans, active hiking and kayaking excursions, private chocolate classes, organic winery tours, village and market tours, pottery collecting tours... So please, if you've fond memories of days you spent with me in this magical world, do send on my email to your travelling, culinarily-minded friends!

Reading the New York Times on line (when no doubt I should have been doing something else..) my interest was peaked by Tara Parker-Pope's recent list of foods good for us that we don't eat enough of. And, with a pile of seasonal vegetables in the fridge and under the stairway, I was inspired to make a very seasonal lentil stew for the kids. I've two vegetarians in my house-hold, so I held off on a meat based stock, bacon, etc., for flavor, but relied on onions, leeks and herbs to liven it up.

A Winter's Lentil Stew: one large onion, two leeks with their greens, a cup of diced pumpkin/squash, a cup of sliced cabbage (I had red on hand), one teaspoon turmeric, 3 tablespoons olive oil (or pumpkin seed oil, or a blend of these), a few sprigs of dried thyme, two cups of green lentils (dried), 5 cups of water.

Mince the onion and clean and slice the leeks into small rounds. Toss into a large stock pot with the olive oil. Sweat for a few minutes in the oil till nicely melted. Add the turmeric, and the pumpkin. Stir for a bit to get a bit of color, then add the cabbage, the thyme, the lentils, a sprinkle of salt, and after stirring a bit to spread around the flavors, the water. Cover and let cook till tender, around 30 minutes. Taste for doneness and for seasoning. Serve in shallow bowls.

With growing kids in the house, I served this with a large pot of mashed potatoes. But it would be wonderful over brown rice, or basmati rice, or extended as a soup. An extra condiment which went quite well was a sprinkling of fresh grated parmesan or pecorino on top.

Enjoy!