|
|
Provence Cooks LLC Newsletter
Sunny, Breezy and Cold
|
|
|
November 2008
|
|
Dear Friends, Family, Clients and Colleagues, and the many people who've shown interest in Provence and its wonderful foods and traditions,
May I say that the outlook is just a whole
lot more positive now that there is a new
President Elect in the US? Forgive me the
political moment, but, I simply feel much
more hopeful than I've felt in a long time.
And, as an expatriot living in France, it is
a joy to be once again proud of my homeland,
and amusing to hear the French debate whether
they might be capable of electing an elegant
man of color to the presidency! (the answer
so far is no... but they seem wistful as they
acknowledge this)
As the weeks spin by I split my time between
my house
on the ile de la Barthelasse in the Rhone by
Avignon and the
organic vineyards of Domaine Cabanis in the
Gard. I revel in the brisk cool and sunny
days that are wripping the leaves off the
trees, churning up the waters, and pulling us
into the darkest days of the year. The leaves
are golden when yet on the branches, and that
rich brown when they fall in my yard. We
rake up the leaves and burn them on
calm days (relatively infrequent
with the wind our constant companion).
Though just 5 minutes from downtown Avignon,
my home is surrounded by farms. As I bicycle
on the small paved roads that riddle the island,
the tractors are out there turning over the
dark dirt, stirring up little rodents and
lurring the local hawks off their high
perches. The other night, Jonas'
class took to the fields with home-made
lanterns to greet the country sprites, and to
share their lanterns' light at a time
when the brilliance of Nature has gone
underground. Back home
the woodburning stove is alight, warming the
foyer from within.
It's not quite winter, but the warm days are
behind us.
|
Projects and Plans
|
|
Wine, Translations, Cookbooks...
With the wine in the cellar and some
nearly ready to bottle (the white and rose), it
is time to plot a marketing campaign to bring
an organic Costieres de Nimes to the US
market. Time to seek out the most
interesting wine fairs, to explore possible
contacts, check the calendar, send out
invitations to the organic wine fair here in
Southern France (late January in Montpellier
for those who are interested). A rather
exciting new direction to pursue...
And, not to be caught idle, during these cool
near-winter days,
I'm working through a translation of a little
French cookbook on the Aveyron Region. It is
by the same editor as the Recipes of Provence
book that many of you have seen and
purchased, to which Erick contributed, and
which I translated into English. However
this one features recipes with roquefort
cheese, potatoes,
hare, pates, charcuterie,... simple, rich
country food that sticks to the ribs.
Fascinating exploring this Southwestern
region where goose fat and garlic are in
nearly every dish.
I've another book after
this one on the 13 desserts of Provence...
and who knows perhaps more? I'll send word
when they are published. As with the
Provence book, the recipes are easy to
follow, home-recipes offered to the editor by
good home-cooks of the region. Hunters might
get a kick out of the numerous fowl and game
recipes. The English versions of these books
have both the metric and American volume
measurements to widen their potential audience.
|
|
Thanksgiving Abroad
|
|
An Expatriot's Special Day
A few days ago I
celebrated American Thanksgiving and
Canadian Action de Grace with dear friends
out at the winery. I made
multiple loaves of my slow rising bread, with
the addition of pumpkin seeds. A fresh turkey
was plucked out of its flock by local raisers
of poultry by request. I baked and pureed
squash for pies and soup, pureed corn for
corn pudding, and chopped apples, prunes and
sausage into a simple stuffing reminiscent of
my childhood. Chanterelle mushrooms enlivened
a wild rice dish (the rice a gift from a
client-- thank you!). And for the rest,
well, I delegated.
For many years, I held so dearly to the
traditional dishes that I couldn't relinquish
control. The feast of
Thanksgiving became a thank you to the
many artisans, friends, farmers and more who
are such a rich and important part of my life
in Provence. Each year, the numbers grew.
At last count, about 30 adults plus
children... I was ordering two of the largest
turkeys available, cooking for 5 days'
straight, regaling friends with tales of
pilgrims and indians...I loved it. But, with
my recent change of direction,
it just wasn't possible for me to continue to
do it all
myself. And last year, I just gave
up, and allowed my favorite holiday to pass
un-celebrated.
So this year, I decided to truly share this
feast with friends, and perhaps to start a
different tradition, where I would no longer
be completely in control, neither of the
menu, nor
perhaps even of the guest list. I love the
raison d'etre
of Thanksgiving -- gratefulness for those we
love, for the warmth and generosity we
receive and by which we are surrounded. A
chance to
share, to give back, to revel in the gifts of
our lives. So, to each a task, and let us
share the labor as well as the pleasures of this
day. And it was marvelous to have sweet
potatoes, mashed potatoes, poorman's cake (a
Canadian contribution), mince meat pies,
great wine, and raspberry sauce (cranberries
being hard to come by here!) and chocolate
walnut pie all come a'courting to the dinner.
The day was a success:
good friends, great weather (sun and no wind!),
happy chlidren (over a dozen from 3-12), and
the bounty of sharing.
|
|
Tango Vino et Otros Sabores
|
|
Shall We Dance?
In the
handsome seminar room at the
Domaine Cabanis in Vauvert, with the wonderful
tango teachers - Roberto and Betty of
Marseillargues (see their web site noted
below) - we'll be hosting a weekend of
tango dancing and wine-tasting initiation
(just 20 minutes south of Nimes, 30
minutes east of Montpellier). The events
will take place at the winery - known as Mas
Madagascar - and in the village cellar.
For anyone in the neighborhood, or coming
through, November
29/30 is the weekend currently on the
calendar. We will begin with an afternoon
session of tango class on Saturday, followed
by a brief break, and then your first wine
tasting session. Dinner will be pot luck,
and taken together at the winery. A bal will
take place in Vauvert at the Centre Culturel
that night for all who
wish to come and dance the night away. Sunday
morning will see our second wine tasting
session, followed by a seasonal feast
prepared by myself to pair with the wines
we're tasting, and in the afternoon, our
second and final tango class.
The price without accommodations is 86E per
person. Please ask for bed and breakfast
suggestions, or if you've a camper van, you
can camp out at the winery. For more
information and confirmation of your
attendance please write directly
to our tango teachers in English or French or
Spanish or Portuguese: info@eneltango.com
Most of the classes will be in French, but,
should we have non-French speakers amongst
the participants, that is not a problem as
Betty (for the dancers), Jean-Paul (for the
wine tasters) and myself speak English with ease.
|
|
News from Provence
|
|
Friends and Colleagues
Sophie Berton, our beekeeper, is settling
into her little
house, having sold her former one. Joel
Durand, our chocolatier, is putting together
what promises to be a gorgeous book on
chocolate. I'll let you know when it is
published. Paul Pierre and Isabelle Laguitton
will soon
be stopping their production of goat cheese.
Her illness has come back, and it is just
too much work for Paul Pierre alone.
However, they have joy to come in
their first grandchild, to be born in February.
The photo of Filou above is from a hike in
the Callanques I was able to take with
Martine, the Shiatsu massage therapist some
of you have met. On an amazingly sunny and
warm day early November we set out early,
picnic in hand, and out into the cliffs and
crannies at the edge of the Mediterranean.
Together we scrambled up, over, and around.
What a treat! And yes, Filou, the hardy
hiker, was of couse, there to accompany us
and urge us on.
A bit of sad news to share. The long-time
partner of Guy Bremond at Verger des Papes,
the man of nearly local royalty in
Chateauneuf-du-Pape, he who knew everyone and
every wine, Henri Estevenin, has passed away.
Henri was a dear and wonderful friend. He
brought us to our first truffle market, and
introduced us to Rene, our rabassaou. He was
a man of taste, glory, rich in anecdotes,
generosity and living life to its fullest.
We will all miss him terribly.
And, for myself, I've a friend working with
me on our new web site. Ideas are bubbling
away. We hope to have the template done by
Christmas, and the site up by mid-January. A
bit late for the holiday season, but with the
financial crisis as it is, I'm not expecting
to be too busy this spring -- though I
wouldn't mind being pleasantly surprised. If
guests are able to come, wonderful, but I
fully understand that this just might be a
year for holding tight, staying close to
home, and re-thinking how we all earn, spend,
and save our incomes.
|
|
A Pot Belly Stove
|
|
Yippee for wood and cast iron
Just a random note to end with. I'm having a
blast discovering the numerous uses of the
wood burning stove we installed this
fall. Now, rather than a fire place, I've
a lovely little olive branch motif decorated
cast iron stove. It takes me a bit to get it
lit (this could have something to do with the
fact that my good firewood, aged for over a
year, was out in the rain for a full
week...), but once lit, it burns away. It is
built as a traditional stove, and I've been
placing pots aplenty on its top -- to warm
up, to simmer, and even to fry a blood
sausage! We've wrapped potatoes in aluminum
foil and popped them inside, and I tried a
chicken too. Yum!!! Saving on gas and
electricity, in a most delicious way.
|
|
|
2008 is coming to a close. Jonas will
shortly be 7 years' old. The season of Advent
is beginning and the days are growing shorter
and darker. Whether you celebrate Advent, or
Channukuh, it is a time for candle-light. The
morning's drive to school,
brings the gift of the sunrise behind the
Pope's Palace
as we cross over the bridge. The rosy sky is
reflected off the snow topped Mount Ventoux
to the North. It's been a year of great
change, but also of true friends, cherished
family, moments of cuddles, sharing, good
books, great meals, and hope. My best to you all.
From Madeleine Vedel and Friends in Provence
Madeleine VEDEL
Provence Cooks LLC
Phone:
33 (0)6 82 15 51 74
|
|
|