Siminoff Header
Monthly Update 
December 2010
In This Issue
Product Highlights
Luthier's Tip
Quick Links
More About Us

Luthierie Camp
Find us on Facebook
2011 Luthierie Camps...

H5/H4 Mandola Construction:
Feb. 20-25, 2011
July 17-22, 2011

F5 Mandolin Construction:
Feb. 20-25, 2011
Oct. 9-14, 2011

Tap Tuning:

         Nov. 12-13, 2011

Tools & Fixtures
        
Mar. 19-20, 2011

Please visit our website or email Kali for more information about these programs.
Roger
Dear Luthiers,

Our November Luthierie Camp was a fast-paced two-day program that focused on tap tuning. Six Campers joined us for the weekend, and the first day was filled with presentations and demonstrations that explained where tap tuning got its roots, the acoustical attributes of musical instruments, how tap tuning works, and the various facets and adjustments that affect the tuning of an instrument's soundboard, backboard, and air chamber. Peter Morin (the musician who did the demonstrations on the DVD that comes with The Art of Tap Tuning) was with us to facilitate the live tests. One of them, which all enjoyed, was a blindfold comparison test of four tap-tuned instruments and one that was not tuned. The four tap-tuned instruments were a Loar-signed F5, a 1978 F5L, a 1980 F5L, and our Kali-model mandolin. The non-tuned mandolin was an F5 made by a private maker. It was interesting how all Campers quickly recognized the non-tuned instrument, how much they agreed that the four tap-tuned instruments had a very similar timbre, and how they commented that the four tap-tuned instruments "came from the same family." On Sunday, we demonstrated numerous electronic tuning devices as well as StroboSoft® (a software tuning application), and we discussed the virtues and functionality of each device. Following that, we tap tuned an F5 mandolin that was under construction.

      Tuning Bars

After the tone bars were tuned on the F5, each Camper got to tune a mini-soundboard (Ken had prepared six small plain spruce soundboards, each one fitted with a single diagonal tone bar). The proof-of-the-pudding was that the Campers tuned their soundboards to the same pitch as their neighbor's soundboard. The tone bars ended being shaped differently, and it proved that each soundboard needed its own tailoring to arrive at the target notes. We had several professional builders with us, and the discussion, input, and comments were very stimulating. Please join me in a round of applause for our Tap Tuning graduates: Left to Right, Jack, Annette, Joseph, (Roger), Rick, Richard, and Carl.    

        Tap Tuning Campers

I want to tell you more about a mandolin we recently finished, which I mentioned above. It was a joint effort between Kali and me. She selected Claro walnut for the back, sides, and neck, and did some of the assembly. Together, we selected an Adirondack red spruce soundboard, ebony fretboard extension, fiber peghead back veneer, Loar machines, and one of our James-style engraved tailpieces. Kali did the inlay work and used our "Kali's Veil" inlay set (named after her), and placed her "Kali" logo in the peghead. I tap-tuned the instrument, and when we were ready to finish it, Kali pointed to a little golden area of the Claro walnut on the ribs and said "I want the soundboard to be that color!" Well, I didn't want to argue, but I was pretty sure that a mandolin that is the color of a gold Les Paul Guitar wouldn't get top billing, but it was a model she was developing and I followed her instructions. When it was done, we took the mandolin to the California Bluegrass Association's Father's Day Grass Valley Bluegrass Festival - with the intention of selling it. The mandolin got rave reviews from some pretty heady pickers, and it wasn't long before I fell madly in love with this instrument for its incredible tone and amplitude. Fortunately for me, it remained unsold at the end of the festival so I made Kali an offer she couldn't refuse, and I bought it from her. It is now my lead mandolin and it's a killer - and it keeps getting compliments both on looks and tone! The moral of the story is three-fold: 1) don't be afraid to use unusual woods - especially supple woods like walnut for your ribs and backboards (Claro is a species of walnut that grows in California); 2) don't hesitate to venture into unusual coloring; and 3) when it come to an instrument's appearance, listen to your daughter!

don't hesitate to venture into unusual coloring; and 3) when it come to an instrument's appearance, listen to your daughter!


Lastly, for many years I worked closely with a fellow named Jim Hatlo when I was the editor of Frets Magazine; Jim was the assistant editor, taking over as editor when I left. Jim is a bright, talented, multi-instrument musician (as well as a terrific editor), and over the years we have remained good friends. When Jim left Frets, he started a monthly magazine called String Instrument Craftsman (SIC) . SIC was a great publication that focused primarily on building and repair tips, and it endured for about three years. Through Jim's graciousness, we have a supply of back issues of SIC. Beginning in January 2011, we are going to put one copy of SIC in each order, with our and Jim's compliments, until the supply runs out (and as long as the order box is not too small). January orders will get issue #1, February orders will get issue #2, and so on. This is just a way of sharing information (which we love to do) and saying "thank you for building with us."


Roger

From all of us here, we want to wish you a wonderful, joyous, and warm Holiday, and we hope that your New Year is filled with health, happiness, and prosperity.

Roger, Rosemary, Kali, and Ken

A Word on Bridges


A well-designed and properly-crafted bridge is critical to the tone production of the instrument. The bridge is the link between the strings' energy and the soundboard. How that energy is transferred, as well as where the energy is transferred to on the soundboard are vital.

 

The most widely acclaimed bridge is the one developed for the violins made by Antonio Stradivari. Prior to Stradivari's designs, the violin bridge was an elaborately carved part that showed little consideration for how the strings' energy would make its way to the soundboard. Stradivari designed a bridge in which none of the strings had a direct route to the soundboard. Instead, the energy would be attenuated through the waist of the bridge and distributed evenly to the soundboard via the two bridge feet. Even the two center strings had their path disrupted by the bridge's kidney-shape opening in the center of the bridge. In this design, the bass foot rested on the soundboard directly over the bass bar, and the treble foot rested on the soundboard near to, but not directly over, the soundpost.

Violin Bridge

 The mandolin bridges developed by Gibson went through a few design stages. The earliest bridge was a thin one-footed bridge. It was followed by another one-footed bridge that was made taller to accommodate the change to a 4° neck angle. In 1909, George Laurian, one of Gibson's engineers, designed a bridge with interchangeable string contacts so that the musician could select the intonation that best suited his or her strings and instrument setup. In 1920, Ted McHugh (the designer of Gibson's truss rod) and Lewis Williams (one of the original investors in Gibson and later became Loar's partner in Acousti-Lectric after they left Gibson) filed for a patent for a two-footed adjustable bridge. Loar signed the application as a witness and the patent was issued in January, 1921. This bridge (see drawing below) featured a long single foot and an aluminum saddle that was supported by two posts, and thumb wheels that provided for height adjustment. (For a photo of this bridge on Loar's workbench, visit our website). The aluminum saddle proved to be too rigid, and the bridge design was quickly changed to feature an ebony saddle with the center section of the foot removed so that, in essence, the bridge had two feet, one resting over each of the tone bars.

 McHugh Williams Bridge
While this bridge has stood the test of time, the design fails to take into consideration that the two outer pairs of strings are more rigidly supported and have a more direct route to the bridge base than the two inner pairs do. However, it is a sound we have become accustomed to, and to the ear, everything appears to be in good balance.

 

This bridge design can be improved, and testing new bridge designs might be something you want to play with. Making a bridge is not really difficult, and you can build a test bridge and put it on your instrument without disturbing any of the instrument's physical attributes.      


We have played with many bridge designs and have a few on the drawing board at the moment. Among the few design changes we have made to the bridges we manufacture is a relocation of the two adjusting posts - moving them outward 1/16" to position the posts closer to the tone bars. And, there's another important change we have made - correct intonation points. Most other folks who make bridges today have copied the intonation notches of the early Gibson mandolin bridges, and they fail to realize that the strings made in the early 1900's had a very different alloy and composition than the strings made today. The elasticity was different from modern-day wire, and intonation issues the wire presented were a bit different from those of today's strings. Our intonation notches are designed to correct for today's mandolin wire, and you might want to consider copying the location of our notches if you make any test bridges.

 

 
Product Highlights

Fret File· Fret File -  Usually, after leveling the frets and filing down any high frets, the crown of the fret becomes slightly flattened by the leveling process. Here's a new fret file that will help you clean up the crown of the frets that have been flattened. Our new fret file features a concave (cupped) cutting surface with micro-teeth that leave no marks. The concave file will put the natural crown back on the wire. When used upside down, the sides of the file also have micro-teeth to clean up any defects in the side of the fretwire without harming the fretboard. This precision-crafted fret file is part #870 and is $29.95 plus P&H.


Fret Slot Cleaning Tool· Fret Slot Cleaning Tool -   During intial fretting, it is a good idea to clean out the fret slots before installing the fretwire. And, for re-fretting - especially for fretboards that have been previously re-fretted and scraped - it is often necessary to cut the fret slots deeper. Our new fret slot cleaning tool features a .023˝ wide blade with teeth on the end that can reach into the fret slots to cut them deeper. This tool is essential for anyone doing fretting and is part #872 and is $21.95 plus P&H.


Scalloped Fretboard· Scalloped Fretboards   We are happy to announce the addition of scalloped fretboards to our extensive line of mandolin and mandola parts. Our new F5/A5 scalloped fretboards feature white plastic binding installed in the last nine frets, which are then micro-planed flush with the fretboard down to a scallop of 1/8˝ (.125˝) high. These abbreviated fretboards are made from top grade Gaboon ebony, are fully slotted and profiled, and are available with either a flat or 12˝ radius playing surface. The flat version is part #330-SC and is $60.00 plus P&H. The radiused version is part #330-SCR and is $72.50 plus P&H.

Luthier's Tip: Strengthening a Neck Connection


Carbon fiber is well known for its incredible strength, light weight, and stiffness. Many luthiers use it instead of steel truss rods in the necks of the instruments they build, and there has been a lot of controversy about the merits of carbon fiber instead of steel truss rods in musical instrument necks.

 

While carbon fiber is stiff, it can bend. And, if it is not installed properly, it can take a set in the neck wood. Lastly, while carbon fiber is light, necks should have sufficient mass to prevent damping and promote sustain. The upshot of any or all of these issues is that carbon fiber, in my opinion, has its place; and for me, it is not in mandolin necks. My preference is an adjustable steel truss rod to counter the force of the 160+/- pounds of string load that wants to bend the neck.

 

However, there are times when carbon fiber rods can play a vital role. We recently had an A4 mandolin in for repair. The neck was cracked through the heel, and the neck wood cracked in the dovetail joint (that is, the dovetail itself didn't come apart, but the neck wood just in from the dovetail had cracked). The breakage was unusual and it called for an equally unusual repair.

 

The fretboard was removed, and the neck was pulled free of the body. Once the neck was glued back (with hide glue), Ken and I were concerned about the structural integrity of the joint since we didn't really have a positive locking connection. To improve the connection, we carefully fitted a wood spacer between the end of the neck and the headblock, and when that was set, we routed a narrow channel from the neck to the headblock into which we used epoxy and installed a carbon fiber rod 3-1/2˝ long and 1/2˝ high.

Carbon Fiber Tip 
I am not typically a proponent of using epoxy on instrument repair, but it provides an excellent bond for the carbon fiber rod and will ensure the owner of a forever-joint for his A4. Carbon fiber had a good home in this repair.

Product of the Month: Gift Certificate Offer


Gift CertificateHard to believe that Christmas is just weeks away. If you are in a quandary about what to get a good friend (or what someone should get you), here is a neat Gift Certificate offer that Kali has prepared: a special December-only discount of $5.00 off a $50.00 Gift Certificate and $10.00 off a $100.00 gift certificate! The certificate can be applied toward your entire purchase including the P&H (postage and handling). Gift Certificates are available on our website here. When you purchase a Gift Certificate online you will receive a code on your receipt. In order to redeem your Gift Certificate, enter the code you received during the checkout process.

Gift Certificate Special!

$5 off $50, $10 off $100

December's Product of the Month: $5 off a $50 Gift Certificate and $10 off a $100 Gift Certificate. Not valid with any other offers or promotions. Use the coupon code 5gift50 for $50 gift certificate and 10gift100 for $100 gift certificate when ordering online.
Offer Valid: December 6, 2010 through January 1, 2011