Four Perfect Winter Wines

Rockin' wines, and perfect food pairings for the whites!

CALIBAN Petite Sirah "Noble Savage"
Napa Va

lley 2004, $45 net
Parker's pretty smart, Part One: I tasted this with friend and Caliban Owner Jack Bittnerlast summer and loved it. My notes include: "pure, highest quality, bold as bold can be Petite Sirah: blueberry jam with pounded black peppercorns, hint of bacon and violet, immense flavors, chewy finish yet not drying."
Parker note on Caliban '04: "inky/blue/purple hue is followed by aromas and flavors of creosote, graphite, blueberries, blackberries, and brioche. The wine is full-bodied with fabulous pure fruit that cascades over the palate in layer upon layer. There is plenty of tannin, but most of it is buried under the extravagant display of fruit and glycerine."
200 cases made. Perfect match with a roaring fire, good movie and a hunk of roast red flesh.

ERNA SCHEIN "Everything But...The Kitchen Sink"
Napa Valley 2006, $40 net
Parker's pretty smart, Part Two: My notes, "44% Syrah, 29% Petite Sirah, 17% Cab Sauv and 10% Merlot in here. "Kitchen Sink" is simple in its deliciousness, very rich, ripe and dark berries, soft tannins. This veritable fleshpot of a wine fits is a certain winner for lovers of hearty Napa Valley red blends. 395 cases made."
Parker on Erna Schein "Kitchen Sink" '06: "Sensational aromas of smoke, meat, bouquet garni, lead pencil shavings, creme de cassis, and asphalt soar from the glass of this explosively aromatic red. Deep, full-bodied, and layered with tremendous opulence, loads of glycerin, and a superb finish."
Giving Parker's ratings are below me of course, so let me state this, both red wines' scores rhyme with "Fine Tea Floor." 3 bottle limit on each (sorry!)

SBRAGIA Chardonnay "Gamble Ranch"

Napa Valley 2006, $39
The dish: Crab, Shrimp and Scallop Cakes with Roasted Poblano Hollandaise (found in "Without Reservations" cookbook by Joey Altman). The chef: my wife Holly. The place: friend's house in Napa. How's the match? EXCELLENT.
The Sbragia Chardonnay is VERY rich. Stick of butter, pineapple cake, hazelnuts, oily and lush. The richness of the fish cakes, especially with the hollandaise (egg yolks & lots of butter!) calls for an opulent white. The roast poblanos and the wine's toasty oak was a great match. The trend around here has been toward non-buttery, leaner Chardonnays. I prefer the luscious, buttery ones like this Sbragia in most cases.
We'll include the recipe with purchase of the Sbragia Chardonnay "Gamble Ranch." It's an easy recipe-Holly was intimidated by the hollandaise, but it turned out to be a breeze to make.

ZMOR Dry Gewurztraminer
Russian River Valley 2006, $25

The dish: Spicy shrimp lettuce wraps with Nam Pla Dipping Sauce. The place: SolBar Restaurant at Solage Resort & Spa in Calistoga. How's the match? VERY GOOD. The Zmor Gewurz is cruelly underrated. The silver lining is that it keeps the price down. It's delicious on its own, and a stunning food-wine. Flowers, honeycomb, spicy peach, pineapple, lychee, grapefruit...groovy sensations from nose to finish. The fleshy shrimp match it on size. The lime, chiles and garlic in the sauce was a fun match of strong flavors. This is an easy and healthy dish to make. Find nam pla sauce recipes online, and pick up celophane noodles & fish sauce at most Asian markets.