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Cattales
The Monthly Newsletter from Cattail Design
September 2009
Greetings!
 
September is a good time to do lawn care and maintenance.  Aerating your lawn this time of year is probably one of the best things you can do to improve its health, even if you don't do anything other than mow the grass.  Check out the September 2008 Cattales edition for more information on aerating and dethatching.  
 
Past newsletters are now archived and available for viewing.
In This Issue
Landscaping To Protect Your Cabin From Wildfires
What's Blooming? Sedum
Money-Saving Tip

Designing a Firewise Landscape

Overhanging evergreen branchesThis pine tree branch could easily bring the fire to the home's roof.

It seems an annual event to hear that California wildfires are threatening or burning homes.  But Minnesota also experiences wildfires and grassfires both rural and suburban, so it is important to design your landscape to be fire safe.  While the threat of wildfires is relatively small to our homes in our urban/suburban area, many Minnesotans maintain a second home or cabin up north where there is greater risk of loss. 
 
A fire prone property has four qualities:  limited access, site location with pines and other evergreens within 30 feet of home and fire ladder fuels, fire prone building materials, and property owner fire practices.
 
A cabin with a narrow driveway and limited turnaround limits access for emergency vehicles.  Firefighters won't enter the property to defend it from fire if it is unsafe for them to do.  The width of the driveway should be a minimum of 12 feet wide and the vertical clearance should be 14 feet.  Prune tree branches and remove driveway arbors that fall below this clearance.  Turnarounds and turnouts may also need to be included, particularly if the driveway is long.
 
Conifers within 30 feet of the structure are a threat.  Radiant heat can ignite buildings within 30 feet.  To be more fire safe, ideally evergreens should be removed within 30 feet from cabin.  If evergreens trees are kept, space with at least 10 feet between their crowns and they are pruned up 8 feet.  Remove all 'ladder fuels' from beneath the trees.  Ladder fuels are described as tall grass, small shrubs, trees, tree limbs, and other materials that allow fire to climb into the tree crown.
 
Cabins constructed from wood, logs or other flammable materials are more susceptible to radiant heat and embers.  Wooden decks and cedar shingles also pose a greater threat.  Do not use areas under decks for storage unless completely enclosed with metal screening.  Fire risks can also be reduced with proper structure placement and architecture.
 
The practices of the property owner also plays into how fire safe the property is.  Is open burning practiced?  How are recreational fires contained and extinguished?  And is firewood stored away from the home? 
 
Even simple adjustments could reduce your risk.  Check out the Minnesota DNR website for more information and details on being more firewise.
 
What's Blooming? Sedum
sedum autumn joyWant a perennial that is in its glory right now?  Try 'Autumn Joy' Sedum.  Sedum plants have thick, fleshy leaves and the flower heads resemble a head of broccoli.  The tiny flower blossoms of 'Autumn Joy' start greenish white and as August progresses the blossoms turn to a light pink.  The color deepens in September to a rich salmon pink then to a burgundy and changes to mahogany and dark brown.  Leave the flower heads on for winter interest.
 
'Autumn Joy' sedum will perform best in full sun.  It will grow in just about any soil type, moist or dry.  It prefers a heavy, retentive clay soil that is well-drained and never soggy.  A too-rich soil will create extra-long stems and the plant can get too leggy.  'Autumn Joy' is hardy to zone 3.
 
The rich fall colors and softer texture of ornamental grasses look great with sedums.  Or the greenish white color look great mixed with Rubeckia species.
I welcome your feedback on the newsletter.  If there are topics you want to learn more about, please email me at nancy.dahl@integra.net.
 
Sincerely,

Nancy Thorman Dahl, CLP
Cattail Design LLC
Creative Designs for Land and Lakeshore

Money-Saving Tip

Dividing plants with a pitchfork

Pitchforks come in handy when dividing plants. 
 
A great way to save money and grow your landscape is through plant division.  Early fall or spring is a good time to divide for most plants.  A good rule of thumb is late blooming perennials should be split in spring and early spring and summer perennials in fall.
 
You can either dig up the entire plant (necessary for densely rooted plants) or cut a portion off the plant without disturbing the entire plant.  Before you dig or cut, water the plant to improve transplant success.  If your plant has a lot of top growth, cutting back the leaves by about 1/3 will lessen the amount of work the roots will need to do to maintain the foliage. 
 
Begin digging a couple of inches from the perimeter of the plant's foliage and slicing down at least six inches for most plants, more for deep rooted plants.  The idea is to lift the plant out of the hole, trying to keep the root ball intact.  A common way to separate is to use two pitchforks.  Place forks in the center of the ball, backs of forks touching with the tines crossing and push down.  Separate by pulling fork handles in separate directions.  A cracking of the roots is common.  A sharp knife or spade can be used as well to separate.  Dense root balls may require an ax or saw to pry apart.
 
Divide plants when it is overcast or not the hottest part of the day to lessen moisture loss and plant the parent and child plants soon after dividing.  Keep the roots moist if replanting won't occur right away.  Keep the plants well watered until new growth appears.
 
Divide in Spring

campanulas (bellflowers)
phlox (creeping and garden)
 
Divide in Fall
iris sp.
peony
sedum
 
Divide in Either Spring or Fall
geranium (cranesbill)
nepeta (catmint)
monarda (bee balm)
hemerocallis (daylilies)
rubeckia
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