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Gardening with Job's Nursery

In This Issue
What to do for February in Gardening
Roses Made Easy
Who needs a Late Winter Pruning
Quick Links
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Greetings!
Spring is six weeks away!  Winter is on the downward slope with the days getting longer and longer each day!  At the nursery this month we are wrapping some projects to be ready for spring.  First keep your eye on the new web site, should launch toward the middle of the month!  Second we will have a new garden tool area and sprinkler, drip, hose area!  Third we are preparing to kick off spring with a booth at the Home and Garden Show at TRAC Feb 24 to 26; so come check out our booth!  Our hours for February and March are Monday to Saturday 9 to 5. 
What to do for February in Gardening 
Pansies!February is a good time to prepare for spring projects.  Last month was planing, this month is preparing for the next growing season. First off lets talk about pruning this is a great time to work those fruit trees, grapes, and summer flowering shrubs back into shape.  A hard winter prune for these types of plants is like a spa day for them.  It reinvigorates them!  For fruit trees, grapes, blackberries and rose an annual heavy prune works best.  For Summer flowering plants like Spiraea, Potentilla, Butterfly Bushes and others is every 3 to 4 years. This keeps the plants from becoming woody, rough looking as it stimulates new fresh growth and blooms. Below in the second article I go over which plants what to do with them.

The next key thing this month is to apply dormant oils and fungicides.  Last year we had a lot of garden disease issues where plants that are normally problem free had issues like Crimson King Maples.  Now is the time to wipe out those spores and clean trees, fruit trees, and shrubs with a fungicide like Copper or Lime Sulfur. Since the plant is dormant you can use the dormant application rates listed on the bottle of your choice of fungicide.  Dormant Oil or Horticulture Oil are used to reduce or wipe out over wintering insects, their larva, or eggs.  This is helpful for fruit trees but also other plants that have been consistently buggy. When you go to spray this month make sure its above 40 degrees F and the plant has not begun to swell it buds or leaf out.  Another word on spraying is double check the species and the sprays you have chosen to make sure there won't be any complications.  Common quick ones are Apricots don't like Sulfur while Hydrangeas and Roses can't be sprayed with Copper below 60 degrees F. 

If you are unsure about pruning, spraying, the products to use; you are more than welcome to come out and talk about it.  For pruning you can take a picture and print it on a 8 1/2x11 sheet of copy paper.  From there we can draw out where to cut. Also if your desperate for something to bloom panies and primroses are great for flower pots this time of the year!
 Roses Made Easy

 

Lots of people enjoy roses but are often reluctant to grow them in their yard because of the high maintenance reputation. This article is dedicated to helping make roses easier to grow and enjoy. Our area is great for Roses; warm summers, low humidity, fabulously draining soil, water is available and generally are winters are not too cold for them. Below are some tips that I use to keep my own Roses in the yard happy and low maintenance. As well as rose catalogs, our 2012 Rose selection and videos on rose care.   

 

Spacing-First don't jam them too tight against other roses or plants. You will get cut up trying to winter prune them or simply remove spent flowers (deadhead). Also space promotes good airflow to dry the foliage and keeps fungal spores from colonizing the foliage.  To space them properly use that roses height as a guide for its width and then add another 1 to space them properly in a bed, for example if a rose grows to 3 to 4 feet tall give 3 to 4 feet then give it a circle are that is 4 to 5 wide and its center 2 to 2.5 feet from another plant or rose.  Good spacing also allows beneficial insects and birds access to eat nuisance pests. Or if need be better access to spray the roses.   

 

Exposure-Roses like to be in the sun for at least six hours a day, preferably more sunlight the better and in the afternoon to help them dry off as well as the warmer soil and air encourages more growth and flowers. I have found Roses struggle in afternoon shade gardens: the air and ground is cooler; airflow is restricted by what is shading the area; and the it nuisance pests a place to harbor. 

 

Watering-Roses like a good, deep drink of water on a regular basis. It doesn't have to be daily, the soil just has to be moist 12 inches down consistently.  This allows roses to growth and flower vigorously and tolerate hot winds.  If the leaves are scorched or burned in summer time you need to be adding more water because they are dehydrated. Roses, when grown for color not competition, can be watered by overhead sprinklers just make sure that the roses goes into the night with dry foliage.  Roses on drip systems do great too! 

 

Feeding-Rose are heavy feeders and need to be fed regularly.  Roses also prefer a slightly acidic soil (which we don't have) so when choosing a fertilizer choose a fertilizer with sulfur in it.  Slow Release Fertilizer Blends for Roses, Rhodies, and Evergreens work great for roses, these types of fertilizers are granulated or organic. Feed as directed on the label of what you choose, but remember to feed the roses.  Now another way to feed but prevent insects is to feed with a Rose food with Systemic Insecticide.  That way aphids aren't a problem, generally these you apply every 6 to 8 weeks. I prefer the granulated forms of these instead of the liquids because its faster to apply!      

 

Summer Pruning-To promote lots of blooms you need to trim some types of roses frequently while others are not dependent on pruning to bloom.  Long stem roses (Hybrid Teas) need a to be trimmed every 2 to 4 weeks to prevent them from getting leggy and to bloom more.  Floribunda, Shrub, Climbing, David Austin, and other English Roses can benefit from a monthly deadhead. However you can stretch this and still get blooms and the plant maintains its shape. Miniature and Ground cover roses are self cleaning which means they keep blooming without needing to be trimmed and with their profusion of flowers its a good thing to only have sheer them back in the fall!     

 

Finally Choosing disease resistant varieties is also a good idea to reduce maintenance. Rose varieties belonging to the Home Run, Easy Elegance, Knock Rose Series are good for this, however any rose variety with glossy, shiny foliage is also disease resistant. With this tidbit you have a great selection to choose easy care roses.  

 

Also to keep our colder winters from destroying your roses remember to mulch them follow this link to read more about this. 

 

Here is more information on Roses 

Job's 2012 Rose Selection  

Weeks 2012 Rose Catalog 

Star Roses 2012 Catalog 

Easy Elegance Roses  

David Austin Roses 

Mulching Roses for Winter Video 

Pruning Roses for late Winter Video 

Who needs a Late Winter Pruning? 
Tools neededFebruary is a great month to do some heavy pruning on a few plants.  Need to size something, rejuvenate it or simply clean it up; this is the time of year to do it. Here is the list of plants that could use a trim.

Roses-Mid February to Early March before there buds begin to green or red tip.  You want to take them down to about 2 feet tall, more if they have winter killed back further. Then eliminate any damaged, diseased branches or canes. Also you want to remove some older canes to allow room for new canes to take their place. Your target is thin out about a third of the canes.  Here is a video pruning roses in Late Winter

Fruit Trees-This is a great time of year to prune the fruit trees to make them easier to spray, thin, or pick. As well as rejuvenate any old trees. The different species of fruit trees have different pruning needs so here is a pdf on Pruning Fruit Trees for Late Winter.      

Summer Flowering Shrubs- Summer Flowering shrubs are shrubs that develop flowers on the current growing season's growth that have a bloom time during the Late Spring, Summer of Early Fall. With age these plants can get rangy or rough looking.  A simple way to rejuvenate them is to cut them back hard up to a third of the plants original height (if they are really bad you can cut them to the ground). Then thin out a majority of the older branches, these branches are the ones that are thicker at the base. Then remove about a quarter of the branches so the plant has an open uncrowded branch habit.  Here is a pdf list of shrubs that can use a hard prune ever 3 to 5 years.

Ornamental Grass-If you left them up all winter, now is great time to clean them up!

Shade Trees- With Shade trees you can trim out crossing branches. Redirect any branches heading inward; you can also eliminate co-dominant leaders or if winter has damaged a leader you can redirect a new one. 

Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophilea)- On Bigleaf hydrangeas the one that grow in the shade and have those large balls of blooms, you only want to trim out the winter kill.  If you cut to much out they will not bloom.

Grapes-For mature grapes you can do one of two types of pruning this time of the year.  Cane pruning or spur pruning.  The goal of each one of these techniques to reduce the amount of fruit producing vines to ensure a quality crop as well as consistent crop cycles year after year.  To spur prune you goal is to select 2 to 4 of the healthiest one year old spurs (short twigs from where flowers and grapes develop from) on the each of the main canes. To Cane Prune you want to select 2 to 4 of the best vines that are one year old, then cut them back to have only have 15 buds per cane. Keep a couple spurs with 2 buds each to allow for next year fruiting canes to develop.  Then remove the other canes. To better understand pruning grapes here is a pdf by Oregon State University Extension with diagrams on both techniques.

Blackberries-Prune out the dead canes and leave the new canes to develop.

Raspberries-Reduce your summer bearing varieties height by a third to promote a strong spring crop.

Evergreens like Arborvitae, Boxwood and Junipers can be trimmed to keep their shape or reduced in height.  Never prune so far back that you no longer have green foliage otherwise the plant looks terrible or dies.   

Things to avoid pruning this time of the year.  Spring Flowering Shrubs like Lilacs, Magnolias, Mock oranges, Quince, Rhodies, Azaleas and Heathers; because your going to cut off your flower show. Pines, Spruces, Needle Cedars are a no go as well. Finally keep you hands off the Flowering Dogwood Trees and other Spring Flowering Trees unless you don't want a flower show this year!  
Well that's all for now, remember to Like Us on Facebook or Follow us on Twitter to see Foliage for Friday, How-To Photo Albums and Care Notes as I work on them.

Thank you for your interest
Alex Job
Job's Nursery
February and March Hours Monday-Saturday 9 to 5
4072 Columbia River Road
Pasco, Washington 99301
509-547-4843

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