Here's your monthly update on all things AMGA. Below you can read about 2012 Scholarship recipients, some Exam graduates and much more.

 

We would like to congratulate the following members for recently passing an AMGA Exam.
 
Rock Guide Exam
Higinio Gonzalez
Lyra Pierotti

Rock Instructor Exam
Derek DeBruin
Joel Enrico
Erik Kramer-Webb
Bobby Lewis
James Orlet
Michael Savage

As many of you know, my name is Scott Massey. I was recently hired as the Outreach and Advocacy Director (formerly the Access Director). As my first eNews, I would like to share a little more of my background, as it pertains to access-related concerns. I started climbing in '91, at a chosspile outside of Philly - learning to build quadruple redundant toprope anchors out of miles of webbing. I moved to Colorado in '97, climbed a bunch, started working for Outward Bound in '00, moved around a lot - the usual story. I got to know some local land managers, but typically on a permittee/ranger basis doing service projects and the like. I worked for Southwest Adventure Guides from '97-'99, met some great people and saw some amazing country, but always felt that land management concerns were something for guide service owners and the Access Fund.

 

It wasn't until I moved to Las Vegas to work for the American Alpine Institute in '09 that I really understood the need for local involvement. I started going to meetings of the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council, a group that was started eons ago by a couple of guides and concerned local climbers. The President of the LVCLC was in the process of working on a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) with the BLM staff in Red Rock, but due to the previous climbing manager leaving, it was pretty challenging to adequately educate them about the concerns of the climbing community. At that point, I saw that having a patient, open dialogue with local land managers was key to their recognition of the climbing community as a legitimate, responsible user group.

 

In the intervening several years that dialogue has expanded exponentially. Myself and other LVCLC members became a constant fixture at public meetings. We showed where there were problems, and offered solutions. For example, there has been an increasing human waste problem at several crags. We discussed waste bags and their implementation, and agreed on a pilot program. Thanks to the AAC's Cornerstone Conservation Grant, we were able to implement that in the winter of 2011/2012, to initial success. There are many other examples of how that dialogue has helped both the land and the climbing community, but they will be for another day.

 

As an AMGA guide, climbing instructor or accredited program, having commercial access is key to our profession. As Outreach and Advocacy Director, I will work hard to ensure that areas remain open, and will work to gain access at areas that have limited or prohibited it. However, I am one person in an office in Boulder. Personal relationships and being present locally are where guides can really contribute to the overall access picture. In the 2011 Annual Report section on Commitments to Shareholders, regarding land managers it states that we are "Committed to being an effective partner by serving as an expert and resource." I am not an expert on every climbing or guiding venue in the country. I need to be able to rely on AMGA guides and members to do their part locally, to get involved and be part of the greater dialogue with land managers. Only by working together can we adequately address the issues facing our public lands.

 

I look forward to working with many of you in the future, and am grateful for the opportunity to serve the guiding community in this capacity. Feel free to contact me with any questions, concerns, or general heckling. I can be reached at the office @ extension 5, or at scott@amga.com.

 

Cheers,

 

Scott Massey

In addition to the Outdoor Research Radar Pocket Caps and Zip Hoodies we have now added a selection of Mountain Hardwear Wicked Lite T's to the list of AMGA merchandise.

The new t-shirts are available in men's (Small - Xlarge) and women's (Small - Large) sizing and the following colors:
Men - Palm, Titanium
Women - Greenery
All have a version of the AMGA t-shirt image on the front.

The Caps are available in Orange, Olive, or Khaki and have the AMGA "text" logo embroidered across the front. The Zip Hoodies are available in black or green for the men and light blue or pink for the ladies. They have the AMGA "text" logo on the chest and the current t-shirt design on the back.



Caps - $25 + shipping
Hoodies - $45 + shipping 
Wicked Lite T's - $35 + shipping

_________________________________________________________

We also have some older items on our shelves that we need to clear out - quantities are limited and the sizes listed below are all we have. These items will be sold on a first-come first-served basis, so don't delay. Call 303.271.0984 x2 to place your order.

Marmot Women's DriClime Windshirt - Black w/AMGA logo embroidered on right chest area
Size Medium (3)
$35 + Shipping

AMGA T-shirt - Black/White Ringer or Green
Size X-large Black (15)
Size X-Large Green (15)
$10 + Shipping

AMGA Embroidered Sweatshirts - Black, Blue or Green w/AMGA logo embroidered on left chest area
Size Small Blue Hoodie (1)
Size Small Green Hoodie (1)
Size Small Blue Crew (3)
Size Medium Black Crew (1)
Size Medium Green Crew (1)
Hoodie $20 + Shipping
Crew $15 + Shipping  

In an attempt to better serve our Accredited Programs, Certified Guides and Corporate Partners, we will be offering space in the monthly e-Newsletter to share job opportunities. This benefit is available to any current AMGA Accredited Program, Certified Guide or Corporate Partner.  Postings must be submitted to membership.director@amga.com  between the 1st and the 5th of every month in order to make the monthly e-Newsletter. Any postings submitted outside this time-frame will be deleted. Postings must be 200 words or less and will be reviewed and accepted or denied by the AMGA office staff. Please email membership.director@amga.com with any questions.

Colorado Mountain School - Now Hiring 

CMS is currently looking to hire a guide for the upcoming summer season. Applicants must have taken both the Rock Instructor and Alpine Guides Course, as well as have current Wilderness First Responder Certification. Summer work will be based out of the Boulder and Estes Park areas. The Colorado Mountain School is also the sole concessionaire for technical guiding in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Please send all cover letters and resumes to Mike Alkaitis at malkaitis@totalclimbing.com.  

 

Eastern Mountain Sports Climbing Schools - Now Hiring

Eastern Mountain Sports Climbing Schools have guiding opportunities open for those with a minimum of a Single Pitch Instructor certification. Year round positions are available in some locations.

 

 

Contact: Eric Waldron
Email: ewaldron@ems.com

We are currently taking applications for our school locations in NY (Gunks, Lake Placid), NH, NJ (Allamuchy), PA (Ralph Stover, Chickies Rock), and VA (Great Falls).

Applicants please email the following:
  - Location(s) you are interested in guiding
  - AMGA certification level
  - First Aid certification level
  - Climbing resume
  - Guiding or teaching resume

EMS Schools programs and information can be found at www.emsclimb.com
 

Outdoor Prolink - Now Hiring

Outdoor Prolink is looking for help in their office with membership. The ideal candidate would need to know their way around outdoor ed, guiding, etc - we can train of course! 

 

Contact:
Gareth Richards 
gareth@outdoorprolink.com 

 

Jackson Hole Mountain Guides Expands Guest Guide Opportunities 

CONTACT:       Rob Hess, Chief Guide
Jackson Hole Mountain Guides
rob@jhmg.com 

 

In early September, 2011, I notified AMGA certified rock guides of the opportunity to guest guide under JHMG's permits in Moab/ Indian Creek, the Red Rock and Boulder, Colorado. I am pleased to announce a further expansion of our guest guide program to include the world class ice climbing found in the South Fork Canyon and surrounding areas near Cody, Wyoming. 

 

This opportunity is available only to AMGA certified alpine guides and IFMGA-level guides. Guides wishing to climb South Fork ice under JHMG's guest guide program should submit a letter of interest along with a climbing resume, copy of current first aid and CPR cards, and a copy of the guide's AMGA certification card to Rob Hess at the email address shown above. Guides whose applications have been approved will receive a written acknowledgement and additional information about the program. 

 

Details can be found HERE. 

 

Exum Mountain Guides - Guest Guide Opportunities  

The AMGA is excited to announce that we will be working with Exum Mountain Guides this summer to offer you the opportunity to work as a guest guide in Grand Teton National Park!

 

The Tetons provide some of the most accessible and diverse climbing in the North America. One of its premier climbs is, naturally, the Grand Teton (13,770 ft), a remarkable ascent via many outstanding routes that all providing an exhilarating day in the mountains. While the Grand Teton is the most famous peak in the region, the range also offers dozens of other climbs that are both famous and challenging, all in a beautiful and dramatic landscape. 

 

The AMGA is proud to work with Exum Mountain Guides in this capacity, and Exum is proud to offer AMGA guides this opportunity. To apply to be a guest guide at Exum you must be an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide.  Click Here to find out how to apply. 

 American Mountain Guides Association