High Sierrasaspens2
American Mountain Guides Association
October 2010
In This Issue
BOD Position Statements
2010 AMGA/IFMGA Annual Meeting
2011 Program Schedule
2011 Scholarship Information
Access Update
Level 3 Avy Training
Job Postings
Greetings from Boulder.
The leaves are changing but the summer weather is sticking around for an extended show. Those cool temperatures we experienced in September have been replaced with weeks on end of 90 degrees. While a big focus in the office is preparing for the AMGA/IFMGA Annual Meeting, we've found time to put together the 2011 Program Schedule and Scholarship information along with dealing with some time sensitive access issues. We are also still accepting votes for the Board of Directors, so if you've not voted, please do so soon.
  AMGA Board of Directors Ballot - Vote Today!

There are three (3) seats open...please vote for only three (3) of the following candidates!

Please fax, mail or email ballots to Betsy by October 22, 2010:

Betsy Novak
PO Box 1739
Boulder, CO 80306
Fax: 303.271.1377

* Please note - your AMGA Certified Guide, Individual, Single Pitch Instructor or Top Rope Site Manager membership must be current at the time ballots are counted in order for you vote to be included. You can check your membership status by visiting your my.amga.com page or by emailing or calling our Membership Director - josh@amga.com or 303.271.0984. *

AMGA Board of Directors Position Statements

J.T. Kalnay
Cleveland, Ohio
Joined AMGA: 2008
AMGA Certification(s): Certified Single Pitch Instructor
Education: B.A., Math & English, 1983, University of Ottawa
                 M.S., Computer Science, 1985, University of Dayton
                 J.D., 1998, Case Western Reserve University
Occupation: Patent Attorney, Business Owner, Kraguljac & Kalnay, LLC
There are 5.14 climbers and there are 5.14 guides. I am neither, but am an experienced businessman and lawyer who loves to climb. Climbing and guiding friends suggested that AMGA Board membership was an appropriate use of my dispute resolution, legal, consensus building, and business skills. I became an AMGA SPI to learn safety skills rather than to guide. AMGA instructors taught me to be safer, to be more respectful of the crags, and to experience the spiritual rewards of guiding. Therefore, to give back, I now volunteer at our local crag guiding and instructing children. Serving on the Board provides another opportunity to give back by sharing my life, legal, and business experience with guides who are out there on the rock doing it every day, guiding me and others in so many ways other than just up a route.


Pete Keane
Bend, Oregon
Joined AMGA: Mid-90's
AMGA Certification(s): AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide
Education: B.S., Geology, 1986, University of New Hampshire
Occupation: Co-owner & Guide, Timberline Mountain Guides, Inc.
Thank you for the opportunity to be considered for the AMGA Board of Directors.
I have been guiding since 1989, and feel very fortunate to be in the position that I am in. Being a guide and a business owner has allowed me to view our profession as a whole from a few different angles.
I've previously served one, three-year term on the AMGA Board (2005-2008). One of my achievements was the implementation of a Life and Disability Policy for AMGA members.
I'm most interested in working on the Public Policy Committee, and any other access issues facing guides. Even though I am a business owner and permit holder, I'm in favor of more open access for certified guides and accredited guide services.
It is ultimately up to us as an organization to educate and push our Land Managers for recognition of our programs and credentials. This is the only way that a more open system of access can be brought about. In the long run, open access is a realistic goal, but it will require a major expenditure of effort in order to achieve. I feel I can dedicate the necessary time and energy to help accomplish this goal of the AMGA.


Dale Remsberg
Boulder, Colorado
AMGA Certification(s): IFMGA
Occupation: Guide, Colorado Mountain School
                   AMGA Alpine Discipline Coordinator
Hello AMGA Members. It is that time again when new and hopefully returning Board members for the AMGA have been nominated. Fortunately many believe that my returning to the AMGA board of directors will help steer the AMGA in the correct path. One of the interesting things about becoming a board member is learning how to be effective and contribute in a constructive and positive manner. I feel that after my first term I'm just reaching my stride in regards to this and another term will allow me to see some of my goals and visions through with the AMGA.  As you all know there are many hurdles the AMGA faces but as before one of my main focuses is on our programs. Programs are what define the AMGA and continuing to strengthen and find ways to improve our courses and exams is one of my main goals.  With another term I will work hard to strengthen the AMGA on many fronts and promise to engage the organization and its membership.
Dale Remsberg

Evan Stevens
Garibalid Highlands, British Columbia
Joined AMGA: 2004
AMGA Certification(s): IFMGA
Education: B.A., Middlebury College
Occupation: Owner & Guide, Valhalla Mountain Touring
After serving the last 3 years on the BOD, I am hoping to continue to serve the AMGA for another 3 years. Why? Because things are exciting right now and I want to continue to work on these issues, like the new Access Director position, the continuing evolution of the CGF/CGC and the growth of the training programs.
Over the last three years I have grown and changed my self as well, becoming a member of the IP, taking over ownership of a guiding business and increasing my presence and working relationships in Canada.  I feel as though all of this experience just adds to me being able to serve the AMGA even better in the years to come with great insight into what the members of the AMGA need, and how things may be going better or worse just north of the border.
Feel free to contact me with any questions or comments!
2010 IFMGA Fall Conference/AMGA Annual Meeting
Boulder, Colorado - You Must Register to Attend. It's Free!

Fall Conference and AMGA Annual Meeting is a little over a month away. If you plan on attending, you must register. To view the event schedule, go here.  Beyond a few private dinners, this event is open to the entire AMGA membership and we encourage everyone to attend.  Registration is absolutely free.

We have secured group pricing at the Hotel Boulderado. The rates and booking information can be found here
To guarantee the success of the events we've reached out to our Corporate Partners and the response has been amazing. To date we've signed on The North Face as Title Sponsor; Black Diamond and Patagonia as Moab Climbing Trip Co-sponsors; Outdoor Research and Petzl as Opening Night Co-sponsors; Deuter USA, First Ascent, Five Ten, Mammut, Marmot, Osprey and W.L. Gore as Presenting Sponsors; Arc'teryx, Boulder Rock Club, Brooks-Range, Mountain Hardwear and Prana as Supporting Sponsors.
2011 Program Schedule
2011 Scholarship Information

Application Criteria

The purpose of a scholarship is to provide funding for the continuing education of a qualified professional guide. The successful applicant is a guide and:

  • Must be a current member of the AMGA
  • Must be currently enrolled in the Course/Exam to which the scholarship will be applied
  • Is pursuing guiding as a profession
  • Is seeking to better his/her guiding skills through educational courses and/or exams
  • Agree to provide 250-word (minimum) testimonial describing your program experience and how the scholarship/scholarship sponsor contributed to the experience, 5 Photos (minimum) shot during the Program and 1 video (minimum) shot during the Program.
  • Depending on the scholarship, may be asked to participate in three mutually agreed upon events during the period of 04/1/11-12/31/11. An event is considered a minimum four-hour time commitment. Events include, but are not limited to: climbing demonstrations, clinics, time spent at trade shows discussing products, and store visits.

Application Process

Please visit the link below to begin the application process.



Only after we receive the following items will your application be considered for review:

1.     Completed General Application Survey

2.     Completed Questionaire

3.     Guiding Resume

4.     Personal Climbing/Skiing Resume


You must be enrolled in the AMGA Course/Exam to which the scholarship will be applied for your application to be accepted.


You must submit both a guiding resume and climbing/skiing resume for your application to be accepted.


There is one general application that applies to all scholarships, however:


       If you are applying for multiple scholarships for the same Course/Exam you only need to complete 1 application making sure to list the scholarships for which you are applying.

       If you are applying for scholarships for multiple Courses/Exams, you must submit a separate application for each Course/Exam.


You may submit Scholarship Applications starting October 1, 2010. Any applications received prior to October 1, 2010 will not be considered for review.


**All scholarship applications are due January 31, 2011. Any applications received after 11:59pm (MST) on January 31, 2010 will not be considered for review.**


**The exception to the above process and deadline is the Chad VanderHam Memorial Fund Scholarship. Applicants MUST submit a short video (no longer than 5 minutes) describing who you are and why you love skiing. Applicants to the Chad VanderHam Memorial Fund do not need to answer the six questions on the application form.

The Deadline for this scholarship is 11:59pm (MST) on January 1st, 2011.**

Information on the individual scholarships can be found here.
The information on amga.com will be updated later this week.
Access Update

Mountaineering Fees: Denali National Park & Preserve/Mount Rainier National Park

The AMGA, Access Fund and American Alpine Club are protesting a proposed mountaineering fee increase at Denali National Park & Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park. These proposed fee increases (of $200 to $500 for Denali and $30 to $50 for Rainier) would impact clients and other recreational climbers as well as fees guides will charge. The AMGA organized an in-person meeting with the superintendents of both parks to be held in Golden, CO on October 15. We will be discussing our concerns about the proposed fee increases as well as lobbying for an official public input process to precede a final decision on the fee increase.


If you have any input regarding the proposed fee increases, please call the AMGA office or send an email to access.director@amga.com.


The Poop Problem: Exit Strategies Conference Recap

In July, approximately 110 land managers, research scientists, non-profit executives, and commercial manufacturers of human waste disposal methods gathered in Golden, CO to talk about the serious issue of pooping in the backcountry. Human waste management has become such a significant environmental issue that the AMGA decided to show its support as one of the conference sponsors. As guides and leaders in land stewardship, you are very influential in the field and can continually educate clients and climbers about properly disposing of human waste.


Several AMGA members order Restop 2 bags in bulk annually at the beginning of the guiding season. Each guide service typically orders around 1500 bags a year. The AMGA also provides Restop 2 during courses.


AMGA members can purchase Restop 2 at a discounted price by contacting Lara Usinowicz, Sales and Marketing Manager at Restop, at lusinowicz@restop.com or (303) 746-2790.


The AMGA has added the Restop 2 to its recommended gear list. We support you to consider ways to show land managers that you "walk the talk" in the backcountry.


Black Canyon Management Plan

The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park has begun a planning process to develop a Backcountry Management Plan. If you have any input or concerns specific to commercial access, please contact the AMGA office or send an email to access.director@amga.com.

Level 3 Avalanche Training

Below you will find the 2011 schedules for both the AAI and AIARE Level 3 Avalanche Training. These courses fulfill the avalanche skills and knowledge pre-requisite for AMGA Ski Mountaineering and Alpine Programs.

January 25-30 - Jackson,Wyoming

February 12-17 - Salt Lake City, Utah

More information can be found here:


January 29 - February 4 - Mammoth, California 

March 19-25 - Girdwood, Alaska

More information can be found here:


Job Postings

helpwantedIn an attempt to better serve our Accredited Programs, Certified Guides and Corporate Partners, we will be offering space in the monthly e-Newsletter
to share job opportunities.  This benefit is available to any current AMGA Accredited Program, Certified Guide or Corporate Partner.  Postings must be submitted to josh@amga.com between the 1st and the 5th of every month in order to make the monthly e-Newsletter.  Any postings submitted outside this time-frame will be deleted.  Postings must be 125 words or less and will be reviewed and accepted or denied by the AMGA office staff.  Please email josh@amga.com with any questions.


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Josh Harrod
American Mountain Guides Association