High Sierras
American Mountain Guides Association
September 2010
In This Issue
Access Update
2010 IFMGA Fall Conference
America's Great Outdoors LIstening Sessions
Board of Directors Nominations Open
Accreditation & CIP News
Job Postings
Greetings from the AMGA World Headquarters.
Summer is rapidly coming to an end. I've seen more than a few aspens turning yellow and it was 29 American degrees at my house this morning. Along with the cooler temps and changing leaves, the impending fall season brings with it, the IFMGA/AMGA Meeting, Board of Directors election season and a whole lot more.

And now...the September e-Newsletter.
Access Update

The Gunks in Minnewaska Update
A success story from the land of the Gunks... Last fall, Minnewaska State Park Preserve, which has offered very limited access to climbers, planned to ban climbing throughout most of the park despite many high quality crags. The AMGA along with the Access Fund urged park planners to consider expanding climbing opportunities. The recently released final Master Plan now calls for a Climbing Management Plan, which will indicate future climbing opportunities throughout most of the park subject to environmental study.
Guiding Opportunities in State Parks
Mohonk Preserve and Minnewaska State Park Preserve in New York are two of many state parks across the US housing some of the nation's most highly sought after climbing objectives. Mohonk Preserve - where a huge chunk of the Gunks stand - see over 75,000 climber days per year, which is more than Yosemite National Park. Smith Rock, Index, Eldorado Canyon State Park and the list goes on. As you know, commercial access in state parks can also be a much simpler process relative to federally managed lands. As professionals in the field, if you hear of state park management plans to restrict climbing or guiding in your region, please contact the AMGA office. There is a lot of ground to cover and we need your help in protecting access for commercial guiding.

Credential-Based Access
One of my initiatives as Access Director is to update the list of lands requiring AMGA certification as a minimum consideration for commercial access. If you are aware of National Parks, State Parks or other public or private lands requiring AMGA credentials for permits, please email me at access.director@amga.com.

Commercial Guiding in Arches National Park
Arches National Park is beginning to develop a Climbing and Canyoneering Management Plan, which could have implications for commercial guiding in both Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. If you have any input on guiding in Arches or Canyonlands, please contact the AMGA office or email Leigh Goldberg at access.director@amga.com.
2010 IFMGA Fall Conference/AMGA Annual Meeting
Boulder, Colorado - Register Now!

Fall Conference and AMGA Annual Meeting are headed to Boulder, Colorado this coming November.  To view the event schedule, go here.  Beyond a few private dinners, this event is open to the entire AMGA membership and we encourage everyone to attend.  Registration is absolutely free.

We have secured group pricing at the Hotel Boulderado. The rates and booking information can be found here
To guarantee the success of the events we've reached out to our Corporate Partners and the response has been amazing. To date we've signed on The North Face as Title Sponsor; Black Diamond and Patagonia as Moab Climbing Trip Co-sponsors; Outdoor Research and Petzl as Opening Night Co-sponsors; Deuter USA, First Ascent, Five Ten, Mammut, Marmot, Osprey and W.L. Gore as Presenting Sponsors; Arc'teryx, Boulder Rock Club, Brooks-Range, Mountain Hardwear and Prana as Supporting Sponsors.
Discounted Pricing on North Carolina Rock Instructor Course - Contact Henry by Friday!

pisgahWe still have space available on the Rock Instructor Course (R11:RIC:10) starting Oct. 4 in North Carolina. If you've been thinking about taking a Rock Instructor Course (RIC) this year, this is your last opportunity to do so. All other RIC's are WAIT LIST ONLY at this time.

If you act by Friday, September 3, you will receive a discount on course tuition, but you must contact me, Henry Beyer, at the AMGA by the end of business Friday!!

The Rock Instructor Course is ten days long and will take place in Pisgah Forest, North Carolina.

Adam Fox, local guide service owner and AMGA Certified Rock Guide, is the lead instructor for the course. His intimate knowledge of his local climbing areas will make this an outstanding course.

Angela Hawse, IFMGA Certified Guide and Marmot Athlete, is the second instructor on the course. She is one of just two female AMGA Instructors and is a "wonderful instructor and brings expertise and professionalism" to the program.

If you are interested in taking this course please contact Henry Beyer at 303-271-0984 or email at henry@amga.com.
AMGA Board of Directors Position Statements

J.T. Kalnay
Cleveland, Ohio
Joined AMGA: 2008
AMGA Certification(s): Certified Single Pitch Instructor
Education: B.A., Math & English, 1983, University of Ottawa
                 M.S., Computer Science, 1985, University of Dayton
                 J.D., 1998, Case Western Reserve University
Occupation: Patent Attorney, Business Owner, Kraguljac & Kalnay, LLC
There are 5.14 climbers and there are 5.14 guides. I am neither, but am an experienced businessman and lawyer who loves to climb. Climbing and guiding friends suggested that AMGA Board membership was an appropriate use of my dispute resolution, legal, consensus building, and business skills. I became an AMGA SPI to learn safety skills rather than to guide. AMGA instructors taught me to be safer, to be more respectful of the crags, and to experience the spiritual rewards of guiding. Therefore, to give back, I now volunteer at our local crag guiding and instructing children. Serving on the Board provides another opportunity to give back by sharing my life, legal, and business experience with guides who are out there on the rock doing it every day, guiding me and others in so many ways other than just up a route.


Pete Keane
Bend, Oregon
Joined AMGA: Mid-90's
AMGA Certification(s): AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide
Education: B.S., Geology, 1986, University of New Hampshire
Occupation: Co-owner & Guide, Timberline Mountain Guides, Inc.
Thank you for the opportunity to be considered for the AMGA Board of Directors.
I have been guiding since 1989, and feel very fortunate to be in the position that I am in. Being a guide and a business owner has allowed me to view our profession as a whole from a few different angles.
I've previously served one, three-year term on the AMGA Board (2005-2008). One of my achievements was the implementation of a Life and Disability Policy for AMGA members.
I'm most interested in working on the Public Policy Committee, and any other access issues facing guides. Even though I am a business owner and permit holder, I'm in favor of more open access for certified guides and accredited guide services.
It is ultimately up to us as an organization to educate and push our Land Managers for recognition of our programs and credentials. This is the only way that a more open system of access can be brought about. In the long run, open access is a realistic goal, but it will require a major expenditure of effort in order to achieve. I feel I can dedicate the necessary time and energy to help accomplish this goal of the AMGA.


Dale Remsberg
Boulder, Colorado
AMGA Certification(s): IFMGA
Occupation: Guide, Colorado Mountain School
                   AMGA Alpine Discipline Coordinator
Hello AMGA Members. It is that time again when new and hopefully returning Board members for the AMGA have been nominated. Fortunately many believe that my returning to the AMGA board of directors will help steer the AMGA in the correct path. One of the interesting things about becoming a board member is learning how to be effective and contribute in a constructive and positive manner. I feel that after my first term I'm just reaching my stride in regards to this and another term will allow me to see some of my goals and visions through with the AMGA.  As you all know there are many hurdles the AMGA faces but as before one of my main focuses is on our programs. Programs are what define the AMGA and continuing to strengthen and find ways to improve our courses and exams is one of my main goals.  With another term I will work hard to strengthen the AMGA on many fronts and promise to engage the organization and its membership.
Dale Remsberg

Evan Stevens
Garibalid Highlands, British Columbia
Joined AMGA: 2004
AMGA Certification(s): IFMGA
Education: B.A., Middlebury College
Occupation: Owner & Guide, Valhalla Mountain Touring
After serving the last 3 years on the BOD, I am hoping to continue to serve the AMGA for another 3 years. Why? Because things are exciting right now and I want to continue to work on these issues, like the new Access Director position, the continuing evolution of the CGF/CGC and the growth of the training programs.
Over the last three years I have grown and changed my self as well, becoming a member of the IP, taking over ownership of a guiding business and increasing my presence and working relationships in Canada.  I feel as though all of this experience just adds to me being able to serve the AMGA even better in the years to come with great insight into what the members of the AMGA need, and how things may be going better or worse just north of the border.
Feel free to contact me with any questions or comments!
AMGA Board of Directors Ballot

There are three (3) seats open...please vote for only three (3) of the following candidates!

Please fax, mail or email ballots to Betsy by October 22, 2010:

Betsy Novak
PO Box 1739
Boulder, CO 80306
Fax: 303.271.1377

* Please note - your AMGA Certified Guide, Individual, Single Pitch Instructor or Top Rope Site Manager membership must be current at the time ballots are counted in order for you vote to be included. You can check your membership status by visiting your my.amga.com page or by emailing or calling our Membership Director - josh@amga.com or 303.271.0984. *

Look! A Video
Ever wonder what goes into preparing for an AMGA Alpine Guide Exam? This video from Mark Allen is a great day in the life example.
Click the Image to View the Video

Job Postings

helpwantedIn an attempt to better serve our Accredited Programs, Certified Guides and Corporate Partners, we will be offering space in the monthly e-Newsletter
to share job opportunities.  This benefit is available to any current AMGA Accredited Program, Certified Guide or Corporate Partner.  Postings must be submitted to josh@amga.com between the 1st and the 5th of every month in order to make the monthly e-Newsletter.  Any postings submitted outside this time-frame will be deleted.  Postings must be 125 words or less and will be reviewed and accepted or denied by the AMGA office staff.  Please email josh@amga.com with any questions.


Alpine Skills International is Looking for 2 Certified Alpine Guides

We are looking for 2 Instructors to help teach a course for USMC, Mountain Warfare Training Center. It's for their basic Mountain Instructors called Advanced Alpine. It is 3 days (Sep 22-24) at the MWTC Base in Bridgeport, CA. Then, 5 days (Sep 27 - Oct 1) on the North Side of Mt. Shasta. Ratio is 3 or 4 to 1.
Applicants must be at least AMGA Certified Alpine Guide.
If interested, contact Bela Vadasz right away - bela@alpineskills.com

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Josh Harrod
American Mountain Guides Association