Great Kayaks SA
Your Kayaking   "Insider"

Great Kayaks Insider - Volume 5/2010
In This Issue
DID YOU KNOW?
ESTIMATING DISTANCE WHILE PADDLING
A KNOT FOR ALL OCCASIONS
CLEANING AND STORING YOUR KAYAK
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Hi

I remember during the world cup shouting at the TV screen, "Rooney you moron, you couldn't score in a brothel".... 
How stupid do I look now!? 

I trust all of us shall "sport" better behavior in our sport and our lives than some of our international "sporting icons" do in theirs and stick to the rules, as ridiculous as some of them may seem.  They are there to keep most of us happy and all of us safe.

Off to Ireland next week to see what the yakkers there get beer lureup to.  Apparently some great fishing spots around so my tackle are packed and polished. I believe "Guinness" are a very popular species up there and will take on anything. Even got me some Irish lures!

Enjoy!

Did You Know?

Tips and Trivia for the Wilderness Traveler
  • Water shallower than 1.2 meters deep exerts much greater drag on a canoe or kayak- enough to nearly double the amount of effort required to maintain speed.
  • Eating bananas and other high-potassium foods will make you much more likely to be attacked by mosquitoes. Choose a different fruit to snack on if you're traveling in mosquito country.
  • Temperature ratings on sleeping bags assume you will use a proper sleeping pad. Without a pad, your body weight squishes the loft on the bottom of your sleeping bag and allows the earth to suck the heat from your body.
  • Never store a sleeping bag in its stuff sack for long periods of time. Storing a sleeping bag tightly compressed for as little as two weeks may permanently crush some of its "loft" (fluffiness), lowering its insulating ability. During the off season, or between trips, store your sleeping bag loosely in an over sized laundry bag.
  • Longer paddle blades are more efficient for easier touring. Shorter paddle blades deliver more power for faster maneuvering.
  • The number one cause of forearm, wrist, and finger pain while paddling is gripping the paddle shaft too tightly. Maintain a loose grip to reduce the likelihood of trip-ending strains or sprains.
  • UV rays take a heavy toll on tent fabrics, reducing the longevity and strength of your tent. Whenever possible, pitch your tent in a shaded location. Also, clear the area carefully of debris to prevent rips and tears in the tent floor.
  • It is better to "stuff" your tent in its stuff sack than to fold it up neatly. Regularly folding up your tent can create creases that significantly weaken the fabric and its water-repellant coating.
  • Chemical water purification will not necessarily kill hardy organisms such as tapeworm. Mechanical water purification will not remove viruses. The safest way to purify water is to use both a mechanical and a chemical filtration step.
  • The sailfish is the fastest swimmer in the ocean, reaching 109 km/h. Dolphins can reach 60 km/h

Estimating Distance While Paddling

However flat the earth may look, we all know that it's actually round. Because of this fact, distant objects vanish over the horizon. When we paddle toward them, we see the tops of those objects come into view before we see their bottoms.  Being aware of this fact (and willing to do some simple calculations) you can use this knowledge to estimate distance more accurately.

distance1   distance2   distance3

Curvature of the Earth and Distance
The three pictures above show the position of an island in relation to the horizon. In the first picture, the bottom edge of the island is over the horizon. (Pictures were manipulated for ease of explanation). In the second picture, the island is much closer, but it's bottom is not in sight yet. In the third picture, the bottom of the island has finally came into sight so that the beach and shoreline is now just visible. At this point, the kayaker can safely conclude that the island is now 1.7 miles) 2.7 km away.

How can we tell that the shore is 2.7 km away in the third picture?
By combining some simple geometry with our knowledge of the earth's curvature. The distance from the paddler to the horizon (in miles) is equal to the square root of the paddler's height at eye level (in feet).

For a typical paddler sitting upright in a sit-on-top kayak, eye level will be approximately 90cm (3 feet) above the water.  If we take the square root of  3 feet, we find that the horizon should be located 2.7 km) 1.7 miles away.  The exact distance will be slightly less for shorter paddlers and slightly more for taller paddlers, but unless you are exceptionally short or tall, the difference will be negligible.

distance

Why is it useful to know the horizon distance formula?
Well, for one thing, it is now possible to reliably estimate your distance from shores and objects by using the horizon. As the base of an object passes into view from over the horizon, it is 2.7 kilometres away. That translates to half an hour of paddling at a typical cruising pace of 4.83 kmh (3 mph). Anything over the horizon is more than a half-hour away and anything closer than the horizon is less than a half-hour away. This knowledge comes in handy when you're keeping an eye on weather patterns and trying to predict how soon you can be off the water.


A Knot for All Occasions

Most people never think about learning how to tie a proper knot until the time comes when their tent is caught in a storm, a piece of gear breaks, a kayak or boat needs to be secured, or a short rope needs to be made longer. In cases like these, a little knowledge about knots can do wonders to help you hold things together until the end of the trip or even around the house.

Certainly, there is no shortage of books about knots, but most of these books cover far more information than anyone except a tall-ship captain could ever need. Let's face it: Few of us are actually going to devote ourselves to mastering a hundred different types of knots, plus memorize the particular benefits and weaknesses of each type. Even if we did, we would quickly find ourselves forgetting them or confusing them by the time we are actually called upon to use them.

Fortunately, mastering knots is not an all or nothing deal. You don't have to devote years of study to the mysteries of cordage in order to be a competent knot user. In fact, most of the knot-likely situations that arise on an expedition can be dealt with competently and quickly by using only a handful of knots. Could you just "invent" your own knots as these situations arise? Perhaps. But tying something securely can be harder than you think, and people who make up knots as they go can quickly find themselves at the end of their rope when the knot keeps slipping or, worse, jams so tightly it won't untie at all, even when you want it to.

A good knot is like a good tool. Once you learn how to tie it correctly, many situations become so much easier. I've learned how to tie many amazing knots over the years-some practical, some decorative, some fairly exotic-but there are six that I have never forgotten, and that I always put to good use. If I had to limit myself to only six knots, these are the six I would pick. With the help of a good rope and a creative mind, there are few knotty situations these knots cannot handle.

Bowline
The bowline has been called the "king" of knots. Basically, it makes a non-slipping loop (in contrast to the well-known "slip knot," which tightens under a load). There are many different ways to tie it, but all methods yield a secure, extremely versatile loop that won't slip or tighten when subjected to tension. It can be used to make a convenient "handle" at the end of a rope for easier pulling or hanging, tied at regular intervals to create a series of rope "steps," or used to hang heavy items without fear of the loop tightening or jamming under the load like towing a car. It can also be tied near the middle of a rope to attach a second or third line for stabilizing a load in multiple directions.

knot1

To tie the Bowline Knot:
Put a twist in the rope to make a small loop.Pass the end up through the loop, around the rope, and back down through the loop again.Pull the end tight to close the knot. If tied correctly, the resulting loop should not slip or constrict.

ConstrictorKnot
For its intended use, the constrictor knot can't be beat. It's the ideal knot to use in situations when a lot of tension needs to be applied to lash, clamp, or join two or more things together. It can be used to clamp pieces together for gluing, to reinforce repairs that need to stand up to further stress, to lash shorter sticks or shafts together into a longer pole, or to replace a hose-clamp around tubing. If the situation calls for some kind of quick, easy, secure way to apply tension, the constrictor knot is probably the knot to use.

knot2

To tie the Constrictor Knot:
Make a large loop.  Pull one side of the loop over to divide it into two loops.  Fold the loops together over the rope.  Slide the folded loops over whatever you wish to constrict.
Pull the ends in opposite directions to constrict the knot. If tied correctly, it should remain tightly constricted.  For active (moving or stressed) loads, constrict the knot as tightly as possible, then tie off the ends to prevent the knot from working loose.

Rolling Hitch
The Rolling Hitch is the simplest, slickest, and quickest way I've discovered for tying a line securely, with adjustable tension. That's right, I said adjustable tension! You can tie it loose, then draw it up tightly as needed, making it perfect for tying off the guy lines of your shelter. Better yet, it can be tied or untied under tension and it never jams. This nifty little hitch should come in handy in virtually any tension-dependent tie-down situation.

knot3

To tie the Rolling Hitch:
Make a main loop around any secure object you want to hitch to (a tree, a post, etc.), making sure to leave at least twelve inches of slack in the end.
Wrap the end through the inside of the main loop one-and-a-half times.
Pass the end over and around the rope outside the main loop to make a smaller loop.
Pull the end back through the smaller loop and tug it tight.
Slide the hitch up the rope to increase tension, or down the rope to release tension. If tied correctly, the hitch should hold securely wherever you place it.

Utility Loop
I don't know the "real" name for this knot, but I call it the Utility Loop because it's a quick, simple way to accomplish two very useful goals: (1) to create a loop anywhere in the middle of a long rope, or (2) to remove excess slack from the middle of a rope by making it shorter. What makes the Utility Loop particularly handy is the fact that you can tie it anywhere along the rope without access to either end. If you snug it up tightly, it will rarely slip or release, but it rarely jams either.

knot4

To tie the Utility Loop:
Make a loop that is slightly larger than desired (the size of the finished loop or the amount of slack you need to remove).  Wrap the loop down and around both parts of the rope and pass it back through, like tying a basic overhand knot.  Pull the loop through to tighten the knot. The resulting loop should not slip, whether you pull on the loop or on the ends.

Ashley Bend
The Ashley Bend is the most secure method I know for joining two ropes (of the same diameter) end-to-end to make one longer rope. I use it when I need to make a guy line or tow rope longer, string a bear bag higher in the trees, or create an extra-long laundry line for drying out gear. Once secured, I've never seen this knot slip or release, yet it is always easy to untie, even after it has been subjected to high loads.

knot5

To tie the Ashley Bend:
Put a small loop in the end of each rope and lay them out, overlapping, exactly as shown.
Position the loop of the top rope over the loop of the bottom rope so that they create a third loop.
Pull both ends back through the third loop you just created, and tug to tighten the knot.
Try to pull the two ropes apart to test the security of the Ashley Bend. If tied correctly, it should not slip or release.

Spiral Stopper
It may seem surprising that I would include this knot, particularly since it is technically closer to being "decorative" than "functional" in most people's eyes. Even so, I've used this knot so often that I've come to consider it one of the six essential knots in my repertoire. It doesn't perform any significant function except to add bulk to the end of a rope, but where adding bulk is concerned, it's hard to beat the Spiral Stopper.
Why would you ever need to add bulk to the end of a rope? Well, there are many possible reasons, but the two most common are: (1) to keep the end of the rope from slipping through some hole, loop, or pulley through which it has been passed, and (2) to weight the end down to prevent it from whipping in the breeze or to make it easier to toss in a particular direction.

knot6

To tie the Spiral Stopper Knot:
Make a loop, making sure to leave plenty of slack in the end.
Pinch the throat of the loop with your finger to prevent the loop from closing. Wrap the end of the rope around the loop in a spiral fashion, at least five times, taking care to keep each coil moderately tight. (Add additional wraps to make the resulting spiral stopper knot longer and heavier, if desired.) When you run out of slack, pass the end of the rope back through the original loop. Tug on the end to tighten the knot, and slide the coils together snugly toward the end of the rope.

Knot Basics and Beyond
The six knots discussed above should prove capable of handling just about any knot-likely situation you might encounter. Combined with the well-known "slip knot," you should be able to (1) tie a loop that slips or doesn't slip, (2) make rope longer or shorter, (3) add loops in the middle of a rope, (4) secure a line with adjustable tension, (5) clamp, lash, or constrict a variety of materials, and (6) add weight or bulk to the end of a rope for a variety of purposes. The possibilities for combining these knots and solving difficult rigging scenarios will be limited only by your imagination and the amount of rope you have on hand.

Cleaning and Storing Your Kayak

If you've invested in a top-of-the line kayak, you should be using it. And if you're using it, it's bound to get dirty, worn, or damaged. So, unless you want to replace your boat twice as often as necessary, you're going to have to learn how to care for and store it properly.  Tempting as it may be, it's not a good idea to put a dirty kayak into storage without cleaning it. Although a few months of filth may not technically "damage" your kayak, it can cause a number of inconveniences, including the likelihood that it will harbor a very unpleasant smell by the time you get it out again next season. Fortunately, there are really only a few basic steps you need to follow in order to store your kayak properly, and these can be summed up in three major steps: wash, inspect, and store.

Washing your Kayak
This step speaks for itself. Basically, give your boat a thorough scrubbing with warm, cleaningsoapy water. Be sure to use some muscle to get as much filth off your deck and hull as possible. Also, don't forget to rinse out the insides of the hatches to eliminate any residual sea water, salt, sand, or scum. If applicable, rinse the neoprene hatch covers thoroughly as well, and let them dry in the sun. Also, dry out the kayak carefully so that no water is left behind inside the hatches.

Inspecting your Kayak
Now that your kayak is clean, take a few minutes to check over all the seals and hardware before you store it. Check the hatch covers for wear and tear. Check the bulkheads for leaks or cracks. Check the deck rigging and, if applicable, the rudder or skeg hardware. Make sure everything is in working condition. If anything needs maintenance, now is the time to identify it. That way, while your kayak is in storage, you can track down the necessary repair materials or replacement parts. It's far more convenient to deal with these concerns during the storage period than at the beginning of the next season, when you're dying to get back out on the water. A little careful inspection before you put your kayak into storage can allow you to catch any potential maintenance problems that may delay or frustrate your paddling plans for the next trip.

Storing your Kayak
Now that you've washed and inspected your kayak, you're ready to put it in storage. Make sure to store your kayak under some sort of shelter, preferably inside a garage or basement. Wherever you store it (especially if you have to store it outside), be sure to store it up off the ground, either by putting it on sawhorses or by building some kind of wall rack. Hanging it from a ceiling from a few large hooks also works well. Over the years, keeping your kayak off of the ground will help protect it from ground moisture and extreme temperature changes which, especially in colder winter climates, might otherwise damage the kayak.
What we do at Great Kayaks SA!
  • deliver your new kayak & accessories to your home or holiday home Free!
  • answer any questions you may have on kayaking. If we do not know the answer, we will find it for you.
  • advise on fitting and rigging of kayaks.
  • give you advice or an honest opinion on any make or kayak model you may have interest in.
  • put you in touch with any club, group, association or body if you need help
  • source any accessory you may want if we cannot supply you immediately.
  • give you the best price on our range of products.
  • provide you with after sale service as quick as possible and do whatever it takes to keep you kayaking safely.
Sincerely,
 
Nick Davel

Great Kayaks SA & Fishing Kayak