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| Great Kayaks Insider - Volume 4/2010
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Hi
Yep, we're getting good with hosting big events and it seems like we might top the World Cup with this one! Carting our refuse bags to the dump in our car boots, if 
there's someone to open the gates....... It's the annual Municipal Street Carnival! Watch the 7 o clock news for details on your local acts and street entertainers!
Summer is near and it is time to dust off our kayaks and get out on the water. The suggested price increase of up to 500% from our dear Minister of Environmental Affairs for recreational fishing, diving, spearfishing, etc has been stopped for the time being and normal market related increases will be applicable this year. Thank you to everyone that voiced their objections to this attempted theft from government. No strike action was necessary!
Be sure to check out the section on the Kayaking Safaris to Northern Mozambique. These trips are offered to international tourists for over 14K per person. The owners of the resort on Ibo Island and hosts of the kayak and Dhow safaris have made these trips available to us at great prices. 8 Day Island hopping trips in this remote area from R9 995 inclusive. Enjoy!
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FEATURED KAYAK - THE VERSATILE "BUDDY"
The Buddy kayak paddled here by a 104kg paddler. |
Length: 265 cm - Width: 84 cm - Weight: 19 kg - Paddler weight range: 120 kg The Buddy is a lightweight all-rounder that is easy to handle in and out the water, turns on a dime and can be transported easily. If you want to try kayaking in general but not sure what vessel to get, this is the one. Can be used by small and large paddlers, anywhere coastal or in-land. It even has a second rear facing seat for a small passenger.
The tri-hull makes the
boat track fairly well on flat water for such a short sit-on-top kayak, but at
the same time, it enables the boat to play and carve on ocean waves. See more detail on the Buddy HERE. Works better with a set of thigh straps on the waves and you can even do an Eskimo roll with it. Recommended for: - General fun for kids and adults
Light Fishing. | - Bass & trout fishing
- Back-line ocean fishing
River Rafting
 | - Light, white-water kayaking
- Ocean surfing
Note: Not for long distance paddling |
IS HEAVY ALWAYS BAD? THE KAYAK WEIGHT ISSUE INVESTIGATED!
Weight, Drag, Tracking and
PerformanceThis
discussion may prove more helpful to long-distance kayakers who would like to
maximize efficiency and minimize wasted effort. It should also be of interest
to novice expeditioners concerned about how the weight of the vessel plus cargo will affect
their kayak's performance.
Assumptions about Weight Given the popularity of modern ultralight
travel philosophies, we've
all been exposed Heavy loaded kayak
 | to the view that increased weight results in decreased
performance. For the sports which pioneered these philosophies (hiking, biking,
and canoeing), this view generally holds true. A lighter load in your pack,
your bike, or your canoe can dramatically increase your comfort by reducing
fatigue and improving performance.
With a lighter load, you can walk, bike, or
portage further, maneuver better, and avoid unnecessary strain. The longer you
stay at it, the more these benefits add up. Given such positive examples, it seems
perfectly natural to assume that the same ultralight thinking applies to the
performance of a kayak. Think again! It may come as some surprise, then, to hear that it
does not! That's
right, "modern ultralight thinking does not directly apply to a
kayak." This may sound unorthodox to those who devote themselves to
shaving ounces, but it's the truth. Sometimes, under very specific
conditions, a lighter load may yield better performance, but in the case of
long-distance touring, a kayak often performs noticeably better under a heavier
load, getting you from point A to point B faster, straighter, and with less
wasted effort.
Let's consider why. The Partial Truth: Weight is a Drag Admittedly,
there is good reason to believe that an increase in weight will decrease the
speed and efficiency of a kayak.
Consider the facts: Friction
("drag") does reduce a kayak's efficiency. Adding weight does
increase the drag a kayak experiences. And, all other things being equal,
a kayak which experiences greater drag will paddle slower and less
efficiently than a kayak which experiences less drag. But let's
stop to qualify our terms: When we say that a heavier kayak paddles
"slower" and "less efficiently," we're talking about actual
speed and actual effort at any isolated moment in time. In
other words, if we measure "actual speed" and "actual
effort" at any particular moment in time, we will almost certainly find
that the heavier kayak is technically moving "slower" and requiring "more
effort" per stroke. The differences would be small, of course (perhaps 0.1
- 0.3 knots difference in speed) but over an extended period of time, they
would undoubtedly add up. Based on
this information, isn't it logical to conclude that the lighter kayak (moving
"faster, with less effort") will arrive at its destination sooner?
Well, in a word: No. It seems logical, but only because we're ignoring
other important variables in the performance equation-the most significant being
tracking (how accurately the kayak maintains a straight course).
The Rest of the Story: Heavy Benefits It sounds
counter-intuitive (perhaps that's why you rarely hear anyone admit it), but a
heavier kayak often paddles significantly better on an expedition than a
lighter kayak, getting you to your destination sooner, with less fatigue. In
fact, in all my years of kayaking (regardless of which kayak I've paddled),
adding 10 to 20 kilos of expedition gear to my hull has consistently improved
my actual progress toward my destination by at least 0.25 knots per hour
(as measured by GPS), saving me approximately 30 to 60 minutes over the course
of a single 8- to 10-hour paddling day!
How is this possible? Well, to
understand it, we have to keep sight of the bigger picture. Yes, it technically
takes more effort to accelerate a heavier kayak up to speed. Yes, it technically
requires more effort to keep the kayak moving at that speed. Yes, the kayak is technically
less efficient when it's loaded with gear. But drag is not the only factor which
is affected by weight. There are many other, subtler factors which need to be
considered before we can understand how weight affects expedition performance.
The first two are interrelated: (1) the nature of kayak propulsion, and (2) the
role of momentum.
Kayak Propulsion: A Steady Source of Change The Tortoise & the Hare Race
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were talking about a boat with a constant source of propulsion (a motor
or sail, for example), and ignoring variables like directional stability (how
well the boat maintains a straight course under different loads), we could
safely assume that our boat would always travel slower when we add weight to
it. Why? Because the extra weight produces extra drag, the extra drag requires
more effort to keep in motion, and the loss in effort causes a reduction to
actual speed. But kayaks are different.
For one
thing, kayaks are propelled by a human paddler. Unlike a motor or sail, a
paddler is only an intermittent source of propulsion. When the paddle is
moving through the water, it is propelling (accelerating) the kayak just like a
motor or sail would do, but between strokes, in that brief moment when
one paddle blade is exiting the water and the opposite blade is preparing to
enter it, the kayak is no longer being propelled. In fact, the kayak is slowing
down (however unnoticeable) because its propulsion has stopped while the
surface friction of the water is still hard at work. To exaggerate the image,
think of a kayak like a fishing boat with an unreliable motor that keeps
racing, then sputtering, racing, then sputtering. The source of propulsion is
intermittent; it starts and stops, rather than remaining constant. Even an
extremely well-tuned paddling technique (which virtually eliminates the
lag time between strokes) is subject to this fact. For the sake of discussion,
then, let's say that the paddler is constantly cycling back and forth between
two distinct phases: the"propelling phase" (the time the paddle
blades are actually moving through the water, propelling the kayak) and the
"halting phase" (the time between strokes, when the kayak is slowing
down).
Why does
this matter? Because it has a direct bearing on how we understand the role of
weight. Although extra weight may offer a consistent disadvantage to a
watercraft with a constant source of propulsion, it can actually become
a partial advantage for an intermittently propelled craft like a kayak.
The secret has to do with momentum. When we say that it takes more effort to
accelerate a heavier kayak than it does to accelerate a lighter one, we are
talking about inertia: the amount of effort required to put a static
(unmoving) load into motion. The heavier the load, the greater its inertia
(i.e., resistance to being moved) and subsequently, the more effort it takes to
put it into motion. During the "propelling phase" of a paddler's
stroke, you must exert greater effort to keep a heavier load in motion. In this
regard, it takes "more effort" to propel a heavier kayak. But the
story changes dramatically during the "halting phase" of the same
paddle stroke. During the "halting phase," the kayak is slowing down
because (as I said above) it has momentarily lost its propulsion while friction
is still hard at work. At this point, weight can offer an advantage
thanks to the power of momentum.
Momentum: The Unstoppable Virtue Momentum
is the opposite of inertia. It's the stored up kinetic energy which tries to
keep an object in motion even after it is no longer being propelled. Imagine
throwing a heavy bowling ball, but not letting go of the finger holes. What
happens? You guessed it: You go tumbling down the bowling lane or get your arm
jerked out of its socket! That's momentum! Heavier objects have greater
momentum and consequently, a much greater ability to overcome friction. For
this reason, a heavier kayak tends to glide further (or slow less) during the
"halting phase" of a paddler's stroke. (It also tends to glide
straighter.) This is a crucial point because it makes all the difference in the
world to how we understand the effects of friction or drag in relation to
weight. It proves that the "extra effort" you expend to put the kayak
into motion during the "propelling phase" is not necessarily
"wasted"; instead, it's stored and released in the form of greater
momentum during the "halting phase" of your stroke. Although you expend
more effort to propel a heavier load, some of that effort is gained back
between strokes when the weight may actually help to keep the kayak
moving. It's a small difference, perhaps, but the advantage often increases
once you inject typical real-world variables like wind or wave action, which
generally do less to slow a heavier kayak (thanks to higher momentum) than they
do to slow a lighter one.
The
assumption encouraged by modern ultralight philosophies-that "more weight
equals a slower, less efficient boat"-fails to recognize this bigger
picture. It ignores the many, many other factors which feed into the
performance equation and which, in the real world, effectively disprove the
claim that a lighter boat will always get you to your destination "faster,"
with "less effort." True, the heavier boat may cruise a bit slower or
require a bit more effort to paddle, but it also maintains a more constant
speed, with less fluctuation between strokes. It's like the old fairy tale
about the race between the tortoise and the hare. The overconfident hare keeps
stopping, while the tortoise chugs steadily along to win. What was the moral
again? Oh yes: "Slow and steady wins the race." In this case, the
hare (the lighter kayak) is only slightly faster than the tortoise (the heavier
kayak), and the tortoise loses less effort to slowing down and re accelerating.
Already, then, the performance gap between them is beginning to close thanks to
the realities of intermittent propulsion and momentum. Let's look at just a couple
more factors to see why the tortoise very often wins over the long run.
Tracking and Lateral Resistance: The Friction
Advantage Another
problem with the assumption that "extra weight is always a drag" is
that it
Tracking grooves on the Bamba running the length of the vessel
 | fails to consider the ways in which friction itself can prove useful.
Think about it: Friction does much more than slow you down. It also makes it
possible to accelerate (friction provides the resistance against the paddle
blades to propel you forward). It also makes it possible to maneuver (friction
turns you as you drag your paddle blade or lean your hull to one side). And
perhaps most importantly, it makes it possible to paddle in a straight
direction (lateral friction converts your off-centered paddling strokes into
straight-forward energy). This last kind of friction-the kind that helps you go
straight-is what determines a kayak's "tracking ability." Tracking is
extremely important, especially during a long-distance paddle. The better a kayak "tracks," the straighter it travels, and consequently,
the sooner it arrives at its destination. (Remember, the shortest distance
between two points is a straight line.) How well a kayak tracks is largely
governed by the length of its waterline. A longer waterline generates greater
lateral friction (sideways pressure to keep the kayak from turning or slipping
off course), which in turn yields better tracking performance and converts more
of the energy in your stroke into straight-forward motion. If lateral friction
didn't exist, a paddler's stroke would simply spin the kayak on its own center
like a top. When you
add weight to a kayak, the kayak settles increasingly deeper into the water.
Lateral friction increases and its waterline grows (how much it grows depends
on variables like the amount of taper at the bow and stern, the volume of the
kayak, the amount of weight added, and so on). This, in turn, improves
tracking. Sometimes the difference is slight, but often it can be quite
remarkable. As I said, it depends on many variables. Nonetheless, it is
generally true that the tracking ability of virtually any kayak will
improve (to greater or lesser extent) when it is loaded with 10, 15, or 20
extra kilos of gear (perhaps even more in the case of a "high
volume" kayak). This is assuming, of course, that you do not load the
kayak beyond its maximum design capacity, in which case performance might
suffer severely. Now
consider the reality that the vast majority of commercially-available
touring kayaks are designed to accommodate significantly more weight than
that of a typical 6-foot-tall, 75 kg male or (even more dramatically)
5-foot-tall, 55 kg female. Because of this fact, very few paddlers will
achieve maximum tracking performance in an empty (unloaded) kayak. Their body
weight alone is simply not sufficient to sink the kayak down to its optimal
"design water line" (DWL). In fact, I know a number of smaller-framed
paddlers whom have to load their kayaks with containers of water to offset weather cocking(the tendency of kayaks to turn
upwind because the center of the boat's mass does not match
the center of its wind resistance) on windy days. The difference the
added weight makes is quite noticeable even to an external observer!
Admittedly, in some cases, problems like these are caused by poor buying
decisions (the person buys a kayak that simply doesn't "fit"), but in
others, they stem from the reality that commercially available kayaks are designed
to appeal to a broad audience (which generally means they won't be tailored
toward smaller paddlers) or to carry a certain amount of cargo. The result is
that their optimal capacity can be well above that afforded by body weight
alone. Why am I
telling you this? Because it refutes the simplistic assumption that adding
weight to a kayak always degrades its performance or slows its progress. It
shows that, in many cases, adding weight to a kayak can improve its
long-distance performance by positively affecting other factors which
are particularly beneficial during a long-distance trip. Certainly, a lighter
kayak will technically be "faster" and require "less
effort" to paddle. Certainly, in a short sprint race, a lighter kayak will
win almost every time over a heavier one. But thanks to the nature of lateral
friction and its effect on tracking, a heavier kayak often performs markedly
better across long distances, over longer periods of time. By traveling
straighter, the heavier kayak frequently gets you to your destination faster,
with less effort. A heavier kayak has a better footprint in the water and, in laymen s terms, it is like "cruising better with an easy paddle"Taking Advantage of WeightDespite
the complexity of the preceding discussion, the simple fact is that every kayak
has an optimal weight range at which it will perform best for a specific
paddler, using a specific paddle, with a specific paddling technique. For
kayaks designed for long-distance expedition use, this weight range is often
much higher than the average paddler's body weight, and possibly even higher
than the total weight of gear he (or she) may choose to pack along. Rather than
try to master the dense scientific explanation behind this reality, it is much
easier (and far more useful) to simply experiment with the way that weight
affects your kayak. Try adding and subtracting weight/cargo until you find the ideal
weight range that feels best to you. Eventually, you'll discover a
winning combination. Ironically
enough, given the nature of subjective preference, the weight range you prefer
may not actually be the weight range which technically yields the
"best" performance. (Some people may prefer a boost to initial
stability over a boost to efficiency, for example.) Whatever the case, it's
important not to lose sight of the big picture (actual progress toward your
destination),and to resist the myth that better performance requires you to
shed kilos. There's no use laboring to find ways to shave ounces if it turns
out your kayak paddles notably better with a heavier load. If you're
truly a die-hard long range paddler, sizing your kayak to your cargo may be the best
way to maximize your performance. (Just don't go gaining 10 kilos pounds before your
next trip!) For the rest of you, a little careful experimentation with
different loads should suffice to help you optimize the performance of the kayak you already own. |
Tripper Kayak Jacket | CHOOSING THE RIGHT PFD
If you're going to
paddle a kayak, you must wear a Personal Flotation Device (PFD, a.k.a.
"lifejacket") at all times. Period!Every now
and then, I come across a few PFD-lacking fools who complain that PFDs are just
too uncomfortable, inconvenient, or restrictive to wear. But even if these
complaints were valid (which they aren't) experienced kayakers would still tell
you that a PFD is the single most important piece of gear they own. Of all the
"performance" and "safety" gear that you can wear, strap on
the deck, or stuff in your hatches, a properly-fitted PFD is by far the most
likely item to save your life-but only if you wear it! Not all
PFD's are created equal. While it is true that some PFDs can be bulky, awkward,
restrictive, and likely to chafe, paddling-specific PFDs are made
to minimize or eliminate these problems. At one time, it was difficult to find
(or to afford) a good paddling PFD, but thanks to steady growth in kayaking's
popularity, a number of excellent choices are now available on the market at an
affordable cost. "Affordable," of course, is a relative term. You can
still expect to spend a little more on a kayak paddle specific PFD, but in return, a paddling-specific PFD will feel ten times
more comfortable, fit twice as securely, and last ten times longer. Here's a
list of important features to look for when you purchase a PFD: Snug fitPut the
PFD on and make sure it's going to hug your torso/chest snugly without riding up or
slipping off. Have someone tug upward on the shoulder straps to make sure they
can't pull the PFD up over your head. If the PFD doesn't fit snugly enough to
stay on you in rough water, it doesn't matter how cool-looking or comfy it
might be. Put it back and find one that does fit. Remember, it needs to save
your life, not just look and feel good. AdjustabilityMost PFDs
will have adjustable straps for varying the tension around the torso area. Make
sure the PFD will be adjustable enough to achieve a snug, comfortable fit
whether you're paddling shirtless or wearing three layers of neoprene
underneath. Sometimes a PFD feels perfect when you try it on over a T-shirt, but
squeezes you like a vice when you put it on over a thick wetsuit and spray skirt
for the first time. If you find a PFD that is sufficiently adjustable, you will
be able to wear it comfortably regardless of how many layers you have on. Wide arm holesThe major
drawback of many PFDs is the size of the arm openings. A true paddling-specific
PFD will have over sized arm holes. Try to find a PFD that has minimal padding
and "bulk" around the shoulder and armpit areas; these are the places
that you are most likely to chafe while paddling, so the less bulk, the better.
Also make sure that there's not too much padding or bulk around the
neckline-the other place you are most likely to chafe. I prefer PFDs that have
no flotation or padding anywhere in the shoulder straps because there is
virtually nothing to restrict movement or chafe skin. Neoprene lining and trim Tripper Jacket rear. Adjustments can be made around the waist and legs
 | Ideally,
a paddling-specific PFD will have neoprene lining and trim wherever it makes
contact with your skin-particularly in the shoulder and neck areas. Neoprene is
semi-elastic and soft, which means it not only feels comfy, but again, reduces
chafing. Some companies will use mesh or nylon in the side panels or shoulder
straps to save money or enhance breath ability, but I recommend spending the
extra cash for a PFD with far-superior neoprene trim. High waistlineMany PFD'scome down all the way to the waistline, but most paddling-specific PFDs are cut
slightly higher for a number of reasons: First, a slightly higher-cut PFD won't press
against your legs and try to ride up, making it more comfortable while sitting
for long periods. Second, a higher-cut PFD leaves your lower torso freer
to rotate for a good paddle stroke. Essentially, if you can wear the PFD
comfortably while seated on the floor with your legs extended in front of you
(mimicking the seated position in a kayak), it should work well for you. Just
make sure the bottom of the PFD doesn't press against your thighs, or have any
strange taper in the front or back that might press awkwardly against your
kayak seat. Attachment rings and pocketsBe sure
there is somewhere handy on the PFD where you can attach a plastic safety
whistle (for signaling) and a knife or bandage scissors (for cutting yourself
free of snags and tangled lines). Some PFDs will have D-rings for this purpose;
others may just have small sewn loops or straps. All of these attachment options
work fine. Also, make sure there aren't too many attachments. It's handy to
have one or two, but it's potentially dangerous to have more than a few. More
loops and rings mean more chances to get snagged or hooked on stuff. Another
convenient accessory is a small, zippered, self-draining pocket of some kind.
Preferably, this pocket will be just large enough to stuff in a small signaling
mirror and a pair of nose plugs. It also makes a good place to stash a small
bottle of Dramamine if you occasionally suffer from sea-sickness. Bright colorsColor
plays an important role when it comes to safety. Ideally, you should look for a
PFD that is brightly-colored and highly visible. Some day you may find yourself
in the water, separated from your kayak. If there's a search-and-rescue team
scanning the water to find you, or a distracted power-boater bearing down upon
you, you'll have a far better chance of being spotted wearing a yellow or
orange PFD than you will in that sleek, black, super-sexy PFD you've been drooling
over in the store window. I'm not suggesting that you completely disregard
aesthetic appeal (after all, you do have to wear it at all times, and you'll be
far more likely to do so if you feel "sporty" instead of
"dorky"), but try to find the brightest "awesome" PFD you
can find.I find it irresponsible that many of our boating and sport shops around the country stock a range of predominantly dark blue and black range of PFD's manufactured by a very well known brand of PFD's purely because they are a little "cheaper"BreathabilityThe ability to "breathe" is a quality which is really subject to personal preference, but you need to
consider it if you're going to be comfortable. I love (and highly recommend)
PFDs with a lot of open space in the chest and back areas. Why? Because if
it's sunny and hot, you will sweat less (and chafe less) in open-cut PFDs. Some
PFDs on the market are cut wide enough in the arms to avoid chafing, but are
still fairly closed in the upper back and chest areas, which can make them feel
uncomfortably warm on hot days. With an open-cut PFD, you can always add layers
when the weather gets chilly, but the only way to cool down a poorly-vented PFD
is to cut holes in it-which I don't recommend unless you like to sink. A Place to BeginIn case you're feeling a little overwhelmed by
this list of crucial features, let me recommend a good place to begin your
quest for the ideal PFD. Take a good look at the Tripper Kayak Jacket. Comfy fit, filled with poly beads instead of solid foam. 3 horizontal adjustment straps with 2 adjustable straps running between the legs to prevent the jacket from moving upwards or slipping off the head. Standard fitted with a 3 liter hydration/water pack which can be used as extra flotation when in trouble. Zipper pockets and a number of safety features build in. |
KAYAK & DHOW SAFARIS TO THE QUIRIMBAS ARCHIPELAGO
Island Hopping in Kayak Paradise for 8 days - Kayak Safaris now arranged in the Quirimbas Archipelago, Northern Mozambique.
Do you have 8 days and a sense of adventure? Does a pro guide with back-up crew on a Dhow
exploring uninhabited islands sounds exciting? Fresh seafood and tropical dishes cooked for you over an open
fire under the island stars makes your mouth water? Coconut crabs'
chasing your shadows sounds exciting?
Then kayaking or sailing the expanse of the Quirimbas Archipelago is a fantasy you surely must fulfill!
The Quirimbas Archipelago is one of the most unspoiled destinations left on the planet. Start your adventure by exploring READ MORE.....
With a Dhow as your back-up, explore Ibo Island, set up camps on Matemo, Mogudula and other uninhabited Islands and explore and fish till you drop! No other operator can get you island hopping here.
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What we do at Great Kayaks SA! deliver your
new kayak & accessories to your home or holiday home Free! answer any
questions you may have on kayaking. If we do not know the answer, we will
find it for you. advise on
fitting and rigging of kayaks. give you
advice or an honest opinion on any make or kayak model you may have interest in. put you in
touch with any club, group, association or body if you need help source any
accessory you may want if we cannot supply you immediately. give you the
best price on our range of products. provide you
with after sale service as quick as possible and do whatever it takes to
keep you kayaking safely.
Sincerely, Nick
Davel
Great Kayaks SA & Fishing Kayak
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