RECEIVE OUR MEMO
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Hi
With the World Cup come and gone, Bakkies on long leave, Bishop Tutu retiring from public life, I wish some younger politician would do that....., Lance Armstrong not as clean-cut a fellow as we all thought and the Sardines nearly gone, what now?Well, we have Louis Oosthuizen to follow on the golf course! Winning at St Andrews, he has wasted little time with his new found riches in feeding his agricultural enthusiasm with a tractor purchase. "I'll have a kiddie seat on it for my daughter Jana," the 27-year-old South African told reporters. "We're going to have a lot of fun. I bought the tractor for my farm. Being a farm boy it was one of my big dreams." What a Boytjie!I got rid of my twin motored boat a few years ago when the Kayak Fish-Bug bit me. Fed up with buying parts for my aging motors and spending my hard earned cash on 6 cans of petrol every week end, I knew that I made a good decision. Thinking back of those times, I had to share the picture above. Imagine sending this baby for a service!
Enjoy!
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FEATURED KAYAK- THE VAYA KAYAK FOR KIDS
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The Vaya is a sit-on-top kayak for young kids, aged between 5 and 12 years. Vaya means "go" in Zulu and resembles Fluid's intention to give kids the opportunity to go have fun like their parents do.
The Vaya is based on the Solo white water action kayak design, but the hull is tweaked a bit to give it even better secondary stability. The boat is very forgiving and has enough volume to tackle moving currents and very easy rapids. It comes with an optional fin to assist tracking, which can easily be attached to the stern with two stainless steel bolts (supplied).
The molded-in seat is comfortable, with high sides and backrest to keep the young paddler in the boat. Hassle free footholds are molded in and can accommodate a large range of kid sizes. The 4 conveniently placed handles are molded in to create a robust boat that can handle any kid's abuse. The recessed compartment on the stern deck is ideal for little toys, rocks, shells, or any other treasures that the young adventurer might deem necessary to drag around.
Like all sit-on-tops, the Vaya is a sealed unit, making it a safe boat the introduce kids to paddling. It is easy to paddle and easy to carry/drag around. It also makes for a great pool toy.
Do not underestimate the ability of this little Kayak! See the Video Clip HERE! |
NEW ON OUR WEBSITE - FITTING EXTRAS TO YOUR KAYAK
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"How to fit a Gadget" Page
Fishing Kayak has started a new page with detailed instructions on fitting extras to your kayak. Although these instructions were done with the Bamba fishing kayak as example, the same or similar can be done on any plastic kayak. You will find the the links HERE.
You will find instructions on how to fit deck hardware such as fish bags, fish finder, transducer, battery, anchor trolley system,
etc.
This page will stay as work in progress and will be updated continuously with new or better ideas. Please send us your ideas or photos of your masterpieces. We would like to share them with all our subscribers with your permission and credit you with the idea.
If not covered yet, please let us know what fitting instructions you need advice on and we will include it in our How to..... page
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CHOOSING THE RIGHT KAYAK PADDLE
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So, after weeks of intense research and dreaming about the principles of
kayak design, you've decided which kayak is right for you. Now you think you
can finally rest easy, right?
Wrong!! Think again. A kayak is only as good as its
paddle, and choosing the right paddle can be a difficult decision-especially
when you start weighing subtle differences in performance against potentially
dramatic differences in cost. If you don't have an opportunity to test out
hundreds of paddles side-by-side, your next best option is to read kayak paddle
reviews online. But to make sense of these reviews, you'll need to understand how
the design of a paddle affects its performance. Start by reading my overview of
paddles below.
Blade
Design: Those Curves Aren't Just for Looks
Blade design is potentially the most important consideration when buying
a kayak paddle. And this is where reading reviews online will serve you well
(assuming, of course, that you don't always have an opportunity to try out the
paddle before buying, which is obviously the best way to decide if a particular
kayak paddle is right for you). In a perfect world, the ideal kayak paddle will
have blades designed to accelerate you quickly, require minimum effort to pull
through the water, turn you on a dime, maintain an excellent cruising speed,
weigh less than a sheet of paper, and make no noise whatsoever as it enters and
exits the water. Of course, in the real world, you need to seek out a happy
compromise among all these
qualities.
 Paddle Examples - Left to right -
(1) flat
plastic blade with center line rib, fiberglass shaft
(2) plastic
spoon blade, fiberglass shaft
(3) fiberglass blade,
fiberglass shaft
(4) graphite
blade, fiberglass shaft
(5) carbon
blade with dihedral face, carbon shaft
(6)
carbon wing blade, carbon shaft
The wider the paddle blade, the bigger the "bite" it will take
out of the water (more power), meaning that a wider blade will accelerate your
kayak more quickly and turn you more forcefully. The narrower the paddle blade,
the less effort it will require to pull the blade through the water (more
efficiency), meaning that a narrower blade will tire you out less quickly and
allow you to traverse greater distances before you run out of energy.
For touring kayaks, or kayaks less than, say, 64cm wide, it seems
appropriate to buy a paddle with a long, narrow blade design. It might require
a few extra strokes to get your kayak up to speed (compared to a wider paddle),
but it will be far more efficient, allowing you to paddle farther with less
exhaustion. With some recreational kayaks, you might want to buy a paddle with
slightly fatter blades because many recreational kayaks are so wide that they
need a little extra "oomph" in the paddle to make them perform
well - especially when accelerating from a dead stop.
While talking about blade design, I should also mention that I
strongly recommend avoiding any paddle with a shaft which protrudes through the
power face of the blade. The "power face" is the side of the blade
that gets pulled through the water to propel you forward (the side which faces
you when you hold the paddle properly in front of you). To reinforce the blade
and reduce flutter, some manufacturers extend the shaft straight through the
blades, resulting in a long, rounded ridge protruding straight across the power
face of each blade. In my experience, and despite what some manufacturers
claim, this design almost always causes the blades to "slip" rather
than grip the water securely, resulting in loss of performance and, often, a noisier "plop" as the blades enter and exit the water. Of course, it's
fine (and fairly typical) if reinforcement ridges run across the back of each blade, but for the power
face, the smoother and flatter, the better. A few kayak paddles have a mild
crease running down the center of the power face of each blade. This is fine
too. What you don't want is any raised seam or structural reinforcementprotruding through the power face.
I should also clarify that, so far, I've been talking about
European-style paddles: the long-shafted paddles with flat, oval-shaped blades.
There are two other kinds of kayak paddles worth mentioning: "wing
paddles" and "Greenland paddles." Wing paddles are typically used for racing or
sprinting. The blades on wing paddles have a curved face, making them look a little
more three-dimensionally scoop-shaped than the typical, flatter Euro-paddle.
But while wing paddles may put out slightly higher speed, some paddlers
consider them less versatile or less effective for bracing and rolling
techniques. Other paddlers insist that wing paddles are just as versatile, but
require time to get the proper feel for them. I haven't found one yet that I
liked as well as a comparable Euro-paddle, but there are probably some paddlers
who will prefer them.
Greenland paddles originate from the traditional paddle
design used by Inuit tribes. Compared to a Euro-paddle, a Greenland paddle
consists of a much shorter shaft (usually only slightly longer than the width
of the paddler's shoulders) combined with much longer, narrower blades. Many
paddlers claim that a Greenland paddle offers greater versatility and allows
for easier rolls and more varied bracing techniques. Also, because of its
ultra-long, ultra-narrow blade design, a Greenland paddle is ideal for
efficient, long-distance touring. You are much more likely to find Euro-paddles
in most paddle shops, but Greenland paddles can be bought online or, even
better, built at home with a nice plank of wood and a decent block plane. For
beginning kayakers, we recommend the standard fare Euro-paddles, but if you're
looking for something new or a little more unique, a Greenland paddle might be
just the thing for you.
Paddle
Length: Yes, Size Matters
Once you've decided which blade design appeals to you, you'll need to
determine which size (length) of paddle best fits your height, your paddling
style, and your kayak. Kayak paddle lengths are almost always listed in
centimeters (cm), and for the average recreational or touring kayak, you'll
need something in the 210 cm to 240 cm range. Here's one basic rule of thumb
that many retailers use to size kayak paddles to their customers:
Standing next to the paddle, reach one arm up over your head and see if
you can curl your fingertips over the top of the paddle blade. If you can't
reach the top of the paddle, the paddle is too long. If you can reach your
whole hand over the paddle, the paddle is too short. If you can just curl your
fingertips over the top of the paddle, the length is right for you.
Based on this rule, a paddler who is 5'10" to 6'1" tall would
need a kayak paddle in the 220 cm to 230 cm range-and indeed, these are usually
the most common lengths that you will find in paddle shops. Shorter, smaller-framed
paddlers can use a 210 cm paddle, and taller, large-framed paddlers can use a
240 cm paddle.
But there are still a few other factors that need to be
considered. One of these is the width of your kayak. The finger-curl test for
sizing a paddle works fairly well if you're selecting a paddle for a kayak 51
to 64 cm wide, but if your kayak is wider, you may need a longer paddle to
help you extend the blades beyond the sides of the kayak and submerge them
fully in the water. If you're paddling a kayak with a width of 71 to 80 inches,
for example, you might need a 230 or 240 centimeter paddle-even if you're only,
say, 5'5" tall. Otherwise, the constant banging of paddle blades against
the side of your boat may drive you crazy, or it may prove difficult to fully
submerge the blades during your normal stroke without awkwardly reaching or
leaning to each side. In either case, your paddling performance and enjoyment
will suffer.
In recent years, the trend among many kayakers has been to use shorter
paddles. The trick is to buy a paddle that has just enough length to get the
blades fully into the water (without reaching or leaning to either side). If
your paddle is longer than it needs to be, you will need to put extra
(unnecessary) effort into your stroke because the water will have more leverage
against you. On the other hand, some kayakers believe that a slightly longer
paddle adds a little extra length or "fullness" to your paddling
stroke, allowing you to accelerate more quickly and to maintain cruising speed
with a slightly slower cadence. Again, we're talking small, perhaps negligible
differences. If you're one of those paddlers who seems caught "in
between" two sizes, I think it's smarter to err on the side of the
slightly longer paddle (if for no other reason than to avoid grating your
knuckles against the deck during each stoke). Having said that, I do recommend
sizing your paddle as short as convenience permits because a shorter paddle
weighs less and, as I mentioned, give the water less leverage against you, thus
reducing fatigue.
On an even more practical note, shorter paddles make it easier to keep
your kayak moving in a straight line. Why? Because the further out you paddle
to either side of your kayak, the more turning leverage you exert in your
stroke. Extra paddle length means more turning leverage, causing the bow to
wander side-to-side a little more with each stroke. Ideally, you should keep
your paddle blades tucked in as close to your kayak as possible because a
closer, more upright stroke (called a "high angle paddling style")
transfers more of your stroke's power into straight, forward movement.
Obviously, this is much easier to do with a shorter paddle because the blades
will be closer to your kayak to begin with. In fact, if you find yourself
zig-zagging all over the lake even on calm days, part of the problem may be
that you're using a paddle which is much too long. Consider downsizing.
Paddle
Weight: What a Difference an Ounce Makes
When you check out the price ranges of kayak paddles, one of the first
things you will notice is the dramatic price difference between
"recreational" or "economy" paddles and top-of-the-line
"performance" or "composite" paddles. Is there really that much difference between a R300 plastic
special and a R2500 carbon-fiber elite? Well, if you like to paddle more than
three or four miles in a day, the answer is simple: Yes! The difference between
a 1.3kg . paddle and a .8kg. paddle might seem small-just a mere 500 grams, right?-but imagine lifting that extra 500 grams over and over and
over, several thousand times. Trust us, it adds up! At the end of a long day of
paddling, those 500 grams can make the difference between feeling like you've
just had a "nice, invigorating day on the water," or dragging yourself
out of the cockpit, collapsing on the sand, and crying like a baby because your
shoulders feel like mush.
That's not to say that a heavier paddle can't get the
job done, but your body will be much more forgiving when you lay out the cash
to save the grams. You get what you pay for, and with paddles, what you pay
for is performance: the weight-savings that will allow you to paddle harder,
longer, further, with fewer rests-and still end up feeling
"refreshed" instead of "dead" at the end of the day. Don't
just disregard ultra-light weight-saving paddles as a "luxury" you
can live without. Consider your paddling habits seriously, and if there are any
long paddling days or expeditions in your future, save a little longer to get
the right paddle.
Despite the rumors, "performance" paddles are not just for
kayakers who eat up nautical miles as if they were girl scout cookies. Even if
you're a casual paddler, you will appreciate the lighter, finer feel of a
well-made performance kayak paddle. Of course, casual paddlers-those laid-back
folks who like to mess around on the waves, but don't feel a need to run laps
around the lake or chase the sun across the horizon-may find it harder to
justify the "performance" price tag. Especially when plenty of good,
strong paddles retail for around R1500. We'll admit, it's tempting to stick to
"economy" paddles in some such cases. Especially if you're paddling a
stubby little Old Town Otter, for example. But if your recreational kayak has
the potential to be more than a glorified raft, and if you frequently spend
more than a couple hours in it each time you go to the beach, don't rule out a
performance paddle. At the end of the day, your shoulders and elbows will still
thank you for lightening the load.
Fluid designed blades with zero flutter and extremely smooth entry and exit are injection molded from a stiff glass-filled polymer. It is available with anodized aluminum shafts and has comfortable grips in a Grey colour that does not get too hot on sunny days.
Having said all this, there does seem to be a point at which the
"performance" paddle price tag becomes absurd for 95% of the kayaking
community. There is typically an enormous difference in quality, weight, and
design between, say, a paddle that costs R150 and one that costs R800. But above R1000, the weight savings and performance advantages become far less noticeable.
If you don't want to break the bank on a paddle, but you do want to get the
best out of your paddling experience, consider spending somewhere between R800
and R1200. You'll almost certainly end up with a terrific paddle that will serve
you well for a long, long time. Realistically speaking, only die-hard
long-distance tourers will benefit from those paddles which charge more to
shave off those last 4 or 5 ounces. Besides, the ultra-light construction of
the most expensive paddles is generally less durable than the excellent paddles
you find in the R800 to R1200 range, so purchasing a R2500 paddle for casual
paddling can actually prove impractical in more ways than cost.
Straight
Shaft vs. Bent Shaft Paddles
The debate over which paddle shaft type is better-straight or bent-may
never be resolved. Why? Because both kinds of paddle shafts have advantages and
disadvantages. One of the most common problems experienced by beginning
paddlers (and also some experts) is pain and stiffness in the wrists and
elbows. Such pain occurs when a paddler fails to rotate his or her torso
throughout the stroke, or grips the paddle too tightly. A stiff, tight-gripped
paddling style forces your wrists to bend and flex at unnatural angles during
the beginning and end of each stroke. This can be avoided of course, by
making a conscious effort to rotate the torso and not grip the shaft so tightly. Of course,
some of the more nervous or stressed-out paddlers on the water seem hard-wired
to grip their shaft like a vice. If you're one of those people, a bent-shaft
paddle may feel like a gift from heaven.
Essentially, the thinking behind bent-shaft paddles is that if you build
a proper angle into the shaft at those places where the paddler is most likely
to grip the shaft, it will significantly reduce how much the paddler's wrists
need to flex during the basic forward stroke. For casual paddlers who only
intend to go out pleasure paddling on fair-weather days, a bent-shaft paddle is
probably ideal. But for advanced paddlers, I think the decision to switch to a
bent-shaft is much more difficult. Personally, I prefer straight-shaft paddles
because I think they are much more versatile. It may be that I'm just more
accustomed to the straighter shaft, but I also like to move my hands around on
the shaft a lot. Why? Well, for a number of reasons.
On windy days, when my kayak starts to weathercock, I like to off-center
my grip on the shaft to create more paddling leverage on one side, effectively compensating
for the turning effects of the wind. With a bent-shaft paddle, this technique
would be uncomfortable because I would have to grip the bent shaft right where
the awkward bends are located. Similarly, I perform some rolling and bracing
techniques in the extended paddle position (with my hands significantly
off-centered, again to create leverage) and the bent shaft gets in the way
during these maneuvers, too.
Finally, I find the bent shaft disorienting when
an unexpected capsize occurs and requires me to set up for a roll. In my
experience, the bent shaft makes it more difficult to determine the orientation
of the paddle blades as I set up for the roll. Of course, like anything, these
difficulties could probably be overcome with a little practice and a lot more
familiarity with a bent-shaft paddle. Maybe I just don't have the patience.
Whatever the reason, I remain dedicated to the straight shaft, and I generally
recommend that paddlers learn to relax their grip on the paddle, rather than
seek out a modified shaft, to correct the problem.
Paddle
Terminology: Understanding the Lingo
Be sure to check out the Paddle Performance Terminology overview to famililarize yourself with important terms and concepts that
pertain to kayak paddle performance. You will encounter many of these terms as
you read kayak paddle reviews online, so it is important to understand what
they mean.
Article courtesy of Wesley Kisting from Rogue Paddler
For paddle technique, see our website HERE
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POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN BUYING A KAYAK ON-LINE
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On-line offers to purchase kayaks and accessories are plenty-full. Every Tom Dick and Sipho has some offer and that "add to cart" button can look very enticing. Should buying a kayak online be any different than getting a toaster or an iPod? The answer is not an easy one. First off, a kayak is big and will not fit into your mailbox. Kayaks are usually shipped by road freight and the average sized kayak will cost around R500 to ship in SA. Online kayak shops often absorb a significant amount of this because of the high value of a kayak purchase. Some companies will even offer free shipping for kayaks, though higher transport costs have hurt this practice over the last few years. For most people, there will never be a substitute for going to a kayak shop and discussing the purchase with a knowledgeable salesperson and making sure that the choice is right.
Always call to confirm the price and return policy and get a written quote.
Just because a kayak is being sold online doesn't mean you can't bargain, call to see if there is any wiggle room on price, this especially holds true at the end of the season when retailers might be overstocked with kayaks. If possible choose companies that ship from areas closer to you; this will lessen the chance of damage during handling. If you're anxious to get your kayak, request a delivery schedule
Request the procedure for how to handle a kayak damaged during shipping. Ask about the wrapping methods that are used to protect the kayak during the transport process. Make it a point to be home during the estimated delivery date, if the courier comes out and there is nobody to sign for kayak, it will be handled an extra time and increase the chance of damage. The kayak is most vulnerable when it is loaded and unloaded from the truck and this will necessitate doing that 2 more times. Remember that for the most part there is only some paper or bubble wrap protecting your kayak. Always inspect the kayak during delivery, this may mean you have to rip open the wrapping, remember the driver cant leave until you sign - so take your time inspecting. The bottom of the kayak is usually where most damage occurs, so flip the kayak over and take a good look. If there is a major issue like a big ding or a hole you should refuse delivery. If you see that there is a small scrape you can just note it on the receipt when you sign. Most times these are the kind off things you would get on your kayak during the first day of use and should not be a big deal but having it noted is a good idea. If there was only some minor damage you can still ask for a discount. You may not get but ask!
If you have accepted the kayak and notice a damaged area after signing for it, deal with it right away and notify the company who you purchased it from. Kayaks fitted with a rudder is a common place for damage; so you can ask to unhook the rudder from the post before shipping. It usually can be hooked back up in seconds after delivery. Some kayak manufacturers require warranty issues be handled with the shop where the kayak was purchased while others express you can go to your nearest dealer. This could be a concern, as you don't want to have to ship the kayak back. Find out before you purchase by calling the kayak manufacturer.
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What we do at Great Kayaks SA! deliver your new kayak to your home or holiday home Free! answer any questions you may have on kayaking. If we do not know the answer, we will find it for you. advise on fitting and rigging of kayaks. give you advice or an honest opinion on any make of kayak you may have interest in, whatever the make. put you in touch with any club, group, association or body if you need help source any accessory you may want if we cannot supply you immediately. give you the best price on our range of products. provide you with after sale service as quick as possible and do whatever it takes to keep you kayaking safely.
Sincerely, Nick Davel
Great kayaks & Fishing Kayak |
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