What: Square, fried, French-style doughnuts, introduced to Louisiana by the Acadians (a.k.a. Cajuns: French descendants by way of Nova Scotia) once upon a time; they're served hot and not so much dusted with powdered sugar as piled with it. These are among the cheapest, sweetest pleasures to be had in town.

Where: The giant, open-air Café du Monde (1039 Decatur St.) in the French Quarter is the quintessential place to eat beignets. It's been around since 1862 (in smaller form, no doubt), it's open 24 hours, and it only serves (aside from sodas, milk, and orange juice) coffee and beignets. Of course, it's also swarmed by tourists much of the day, but the line moves pretty quickly. Keep in mind that black clothes and powdered sugar don't always mix well.

When: 24 hours/7 days (closes for Christmas and "bad" hurricanes only). Come during an off hour (not in the morning or a weekend afternoon) to avoid the big crowds.

Order: At least one order of beignets (three for $2.14) with a café au lait ($2.14 for small). The coffee here is dark-roasted and chicory-spiked: smooth, strong, and delicious.

Good to know: Count on a late-night beignet snack after a night hopping around the music clubs and bars on Frenchmen Street, a short walk away.

Alternatively: Some people are turned off by Café du Monde's tourist-attraction status; we happen to think the place is pretty great. But if you want to check out another spot serving beignets, there's Café Beignet (two locations: 311 Bourbon St. and 334-B Royal St.), also in the Quarter, serving a full breakfast and lunch menu, too. Just don't make our mistake and order a shot of espresso there: It'll set you back $3.

What: Introduced centuries ago by the French (who made them with almonds), pralines--sweet little nut-based confections--proved to adapt well to Louisiana's pecan trees and native sugarcane, becoming a unique, popular, cookie-sized treat in New Orleans. Today they are made with pecans, sugar, butter, and milk.

Where: In the French Quarter, we picked up our handmade pralines at Southern Candymakers (334 Decatur St.), where the staff will give you a free taste before buying. Distinctly sugary and creamy, they make a perfect portable snack for when the sweet tooth strikes.

When: Daily, 10am-7pm

Order: Pralines ($18.95 a pound) for sure, but good luck ignoring the other pretty treats here, like the pecan brittle, and double-dipped caramel-chocolate tortues ("turtles").

Alternatively: Pralines are sold all over the place, especially in the French Quarter. Some other trusted spots include Aunt Sally's Pralines (810 Decatur St.) and Leah's Pralines (714 St. Louis St.). Outside the Quarter, Loretta's Authentic Pralines (2101 N. Rampart St.) is the place to go.

What: Perhaps the dish most associated with New Orleans, gumbo is different things to different people, but it's always hearty comfort food--a well-spiced, full-bodied stew served over rice. It's made various ways, but generally incorporates vegetables, seafood, and/or meat (see next entry), and is made thick by filé powder, which is ground sassafras leaves. (Sometimes you will see "filé gumbo" on menus.) One point of contention surrounds the inclusion of tomatoes: Creole chefs (mostly in the city) use it; Cajun chefs (in the countryside) shun it.

Where: The picture above is from dive bar Coop's Place (1109 Decatur St.) in the French Quarter, where the gumbo has a greenish hue and is made with fresh okra, filé powder, and seafood (crab claws, shrimp, whole oysters), served with rice. We are big okra fans, and loved the soupy consistency, rich seafood taste, and spicy finish. 

When: Daily, 11am-midnight (bar closes at 1am)

Order: Besides the seafood gumbo ($4.95 a cup), the crawfish etouffee (see this listed above) and rabbit and sausage jambalaya (see these listed below) are great here. We also heard the fried chicken and smoked duck quesadillas are excellent. 

Alternatively: The gumbo debate always rages in NOLA; if time permitted, we would've tried the gumbo at these places, too: in the Quarter, K-Paul's (416 Chartres St.) or Gumbo Shop (630 St. Peter St.); in Mid-City, Liuzza's by the Track (1518 N. Lopez St.); Uptown, Brigtsen's (723 Dante St.) for filé gumbo or Casamento's (4330 Magazine St.).

Good to know: Filé powder is available in groceries all over town, should you wish to cook gumbo at home.

What: Simple and filling, taking cues from the French and Spanish in its preparation (it's related to paella, for one thing), this Louisiana classic is made with meats and/or seafood (often including andouille sausage either way), vegetables, stock, and rice--which traditionally cooks in the pot with the other ingredients to complete the dish (as opposed to dishes like gumbo, for instance, where the rice is served as more of a bed). For it to be "Creole" style, as it generally is in New Orleans, tomatoes are included; in Louisiana's Cajun countryside, tomatoes are not used.

Where: The jambalaya at dive bar Coop's Place (1109 Decatur St.) in the French Quarter, made with boneless rabbit and andouille sausage with vegetables (tomato, onion, bell pepper), is excellent: thick, sweet, and spicy. Bonus: Coop's serves food late (for NOLA), and this dish would make an exceptional late-night alcohol absorber!

When: Daily, 11am-midnight (bar closes at 1am)

What: A football-size sandwich on soft, round Italian bread (itself called muffuletta), filled with Italian meats and cheeses--some combo of Genoa salami, ham, mortadella, pastrami, Swiss, and provolone--and spread with a spicy, salty, garlicky Italian olive salad. It is widely accepted that the Sicilian owner of NOLA's Central Grocery devised this sandwich in 1906.

Where: Old-school Italian market Central Grocery (504-523-1620; 923 Decatur St.) remains the definitive place to buy your muffuletta, which is served quartered, at room temperature, and wrapped in paper. Some people like to eat it at the informal tables in CG, while others take it outdoors to Jackson Square or the banks of the Mississippi. The sandwich is gigantic--if you pace yourself, you can do both! 

When: Tues-Sat, 9am-5pm. Your chance of avoiding a long line is better before noon.

Order: Get your muffuletta ($14.21 for whole) and peruse the shelves: Central Grocery sells some great foodstuffs, including its famous olive salad, but the prices are rather touristy-steep (i.e., get your hot sauces and coffee at a regular grocery store). At least buy some Zapp's potato chips (see this listed below) to accompany your sandwich.

Good to know: Everyone will tell you that CG muffulettas travel well, and in fact they are ideal for picking up the day of your flight home to enjoy on the plane, in the airport, or at home later that night/day. By the next day, however, the bread starts to harden around the edges--still tasty, but not as tasty. Some people have had good luck freezing them. 

Alternatively: Napoleon House (500 Chartres St.) does a good muffuletta ($14 for whole), though it is served hot unless you request it otherwise. Try a quarter ($4.25) and see how you like it--we enjoyed the melted cheese, but personally found that cold is better. Don't forget to try a Pimms Cup cocktail (see this listed below) while you're there.

What: These aren't, of course, unique to New Orleans, but oysters are so abundant along the Gulf coast during non-summer months that if you enjoy them raw, you should eat them as much as possible. With a cold beer, or three.

Where: The tourists are certainly on to it, but Acme Oyster House (724 Iberville St.) in the French Quarter serves up fresh, plump raw oysters, with lemon and cocktail sauce, in a lively environment. Sit or stand at the bar and befriend your shuckers.

When: Sun-Thurs, 11am-10pm; Fri-Sat, 11am-11pm. Weekday afternoons are a good bet for avoiding the dreaded line here. Keep in mind that Gulf oysters are best eaten raw during the chillier "R" months; many people choose to avoid eating them raw at all between May and August. While they're not necessarily terrible to eat raw during the summer, some taste will be sacrificed. 

Order: A half-dozen ($7.49) or dozen ($10.99) raw Louisiana oysters. Abita beer. Maybe some craw puppies or buttery charbroiled oysters. Repeat as necessary.

Good to know: Oyster shooters ($1.49) make a fun dare, but they're pretty gross--that fine little oyster floats in vodka with a dash of hot sauce, and if you're wondering about the vodka quality, remember how much it costs. Should you feel adventurous, go for it--just don't say we didn't warn you.

Alternatively: Any oyster-loving local will undoubtedly insist on his or her favorite spot, but in truth, good fresh oysters aren't too hard to find in NOLA during the cooler months. Acme and Felix's Restaurant & Oyster Bar (739 Iberville St.), its across-the-street neighbor, are both conveniently located and great for raw and cooked oysters; Felix's is less likely to have a line to get in. (There's no reason to stand on that Acme line ever, really. Avoid it by going at an off hour or just go to Felix's--same same.) If you can get out of the Quarter for your bivalve fix (and it's not a Sunday, Monday, or June-August, when they close), go to Casamento's (4330 Magazine St.) Uptown--most locals agree it's the place for oysters. Order them raw (they're much cheaper here, incidentally) with a fried "oyster loaf."

What: For this Creole dish, named for the French governor of Louisiana and founder of New Orleans, oysters on the half shell are coated with a sauce including butter, wine, finely diced shrimp and mushroom, cheddar and Parmesan cheese, and then broiled and served over rock salt with lemon. This tastes much better than it may sound, we assure you.

Where: No-frills Felix's Restaurant & Oyster Bar (739 Iberville St.) in the French Quarter does a great rendition of this dish. Sit at the bar for a lively atmosphere.

When: Mon-Thu & Sun, 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat 10am-12am

Order: The oysters Bienville ($9.95 for 6), perhaps a few on the half-shell, Abita beer.

Alternatively: Legend has it that Arnaud's (813 Bienville St.) in the French Quarter invented this dish, and it's still available there--as well as at Antoine's (713 St. Louis St.), also in the Quarter. Both places are more formal, however, and you'll pay a few bucks extra.

What: Famously named for John D. Rockefeller because of its "richness," this dish consists of oysters baked with a green vegetable puree. Its backstory is perhaps more interesting than the dish itself: Mr. Antoine Alciatore of Antoine's Restaurant (see eggs Sardou) created oysters Rockefeller in 1889 because, reportedly, he didn't like waste--so he devised a green sauce using seven vegetables he often saw his staff throwing away. Brennan's, another famed restaurant still chugging away in the Quarter, allegedly wanted the recipe but couldn't crack its ingredient code, so its chef started using spinach to make the dish's sauce--thus inventing the manner in which most Americans know oysters Rockefeller today. But the original original is only at Antoine's, and the ingredients are still a secret...though our chatty waiter did hint that while no spinach is used, watercress "might" be.

Where: Of course, it has to be Antoine's (713 St. Louis St.), a grand old dame of a Creole eatery in the French Quarter that claims title to America's oldest family-run restaurant (it opened in 1840). Its new Hermes Bar, which opens onto the street next to the restaurant's main entrance, offers a more casual setting for noshing if you don't want a full meal.

When: The restaurant's hours are Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2pm and 5:30pm-9pm; Sun (jazz brunch), 11am-2pm. The bar is open daily, 11am-"till"; happy hour is Mon-Sat, 4pm-8pm. Martini drinkers, Antoine's also offers 25-cent martinis at lunch.

Order: Oysters Rockefeller (6 for $13.75), definitely accompanied by a proper Sazerac (see listed below). You might also want to try the oysters Foch, yet another creation of Antoine's.

Alternatively: There's no alternative to this particular oysters Rockefeller, but if you're up for an old-school comparison tasting, try 'em at Brennan's (417 Royal St.), too.

What: The combination is nontraditional, but it's a wonder no one thought to combine these two NOLA staples sooner: buttery, peppery BBQ shrimp and fresh French bread. The loaf is partially hollowed out so its crust really envelops the shrimp and holds together (most of) its piping-hot sauce--a genius technique that allows for more shrimp and less bread, and makes the sandwich much easier to eat. Somehow the bread doesn't get too soggy, though be forewarned that each bite is like hot lava squirting from the bread's chewy innards...delicious hot lava, of course.

Where: Casual, locals' favorite Liuzza's By the Track (1518 N. Lopez St.) in Mid-City is the only place we know of that serves this po'boy. Its BBQ sauce is extra peppery, its shrimp fresh and plump.

When: Mon-Sat, 11am-10pm

Order: The BBQ shrimp po'boy ($12.95); we also hear the Creole gumbo, "breathtaking beef" (garlic-stuffed roast beef), and garlic oyster po'boy are worth making the trip for. Definitely get an Abita Amber here; it's served in big, frosty, chalice-like glasses (see "local beer" listing below) that make it taste better than it actually is.

Good to know: From the French Quarter, it's very easy to get to Mid-City (the 'hood of Parkway Bakery & Tavern, too, see below) by taking the Canal Street streetcar. Mid-City has a wonderful neighborhood feel. If you're there during the day, spend some time exploring nearby City Park, Bayou St. John, and St. Louis Cemetery #3.

What: "Debris" refers to shredded roast beef that's been simmered extra long so it absorbs more gravy and seasoning, and/or it's moistened with pan drippings--resulting in tender, falling-apart meat with lots of juicy flavor. We're combining this entry with regular roast beef po'boys, since they're often prepared with gravy too, making them similar.

Where: Mother's (401 Poydras St.) in the CBD is famed for its debris sandwich, which, when "dressed," comes with cabbage, pickle, and mayo (confession: we asked for mustard instead). We liked that it's not overflowing with messy meat; though really moist, the meat only soaks a bit of the bottom part of the bread, keeping the sandwich intact.

When: Mon-Sat, 6:30am-10pm; Sun, 7am-10pm

Order: The debris sandwich, dressed ($10 full size; $9 for 2/3 size). This place is really popular (especially among area business trippers) for breakfast (lots of eggs and grits) and lunch (served after 11am), when you can try all the Creole standards.

Good to know: If you come during prime breakfast or lunch hours, expect a line--sometimes out the door. It moves relatively quickly. You'll be in the company of more locals if you go on a weekday.

ALSO:

Where: Parkway Bakery & Tavern (538 Hagan Ave.) in Mid-City does a mean hot-roast-beef-with-gravy po'boy in which the roast beef is homemade and slow-cooked for 12 hours. Attention carnivores: The sandwich itself is very heavy on the meat and gravy, so heavy on ours that the bread quickly sogged up and couldn't be eaten as a sandwich (and who wants to use a fork to eat a po'boy?). Tasty, but very messy. "Dressed" includes pickles here, FYI.

When: Daily, 11am-10pm

Order: The roast beef with gravy, dressed ($6.65), on French bread (they offer other breads here)--notice the prices are less touristy; it's a great local spot with outdoor seating to boot--or try one of the fried seafood po'boys (see listed below). Sweet potato fries ($3.75) make a delicious accompaniment.

Alternatively: Depending on whom you ask, the other "best" roast beef po'boys in town are at divey Parasol's Restaurant & Bar (2533 Constance St.) in the Garden District, and R&O's (504-831-1248; 216 Metairie Hammond Hwy) in Metairie, where the bread is crustier--but you'll need a car to get there.

What: Fried shrimp, oysters, catfish, or soft-shell crabs (in season) are stuffed into French bread and dressed (if desired) with lettuce, tomato, and mayo.

Where: The oyster po'boy at Parkway Bakery & Tavern (538 Hagan Ave.) in Mid-City is just as it should be: filled with plump, very deep-fried oysters. As with the roast beef, "dressed" includes pickles.

When: Daily, 11am-10pm

Order: The golden-fried oyster po'boy, dressed ($10.20), on French bread, or try the roast beef with gravy po'boy (see listed above). Also an awesome seafood bet? One of the half-and-half combos, like fried oysters and fried shrimp.

Alternatively: Once again, Parasol's Restaurant & Bar (2533 Constance St.) in the Garden District, and R&O's (504-831-1248; 216 Metairie Hammond Hwy) in Metairie (you'll need a car) are highly recommended, as well as Domilise's (504-899-9126; 5240 Annunciation St.) Uptown and the newer Mahoney's Po'boy Shop (3454 Magazine St.) near the Garden District, which offers both classic and nontraditional po'boy fillers (for instance: chicken livers and Creole slaw; fried oysters, bacon, and cheddar).

What: A simple, hearty, and delicious Cajun classic, red beans and rice is traditionally served on Mondays here. Why Mondays? We were given a two-part answer: Back in the day, ham was usually eaten on Sundays, and so what remained of it (and any other leftover pork in the fridge) was thrown into this dish on Monday--which also happened to be laundry day, so women could let the beans cook unattended all day while they washed clothes. Despite its vegetarian-seeming name, there's always some ham and/or sausage involved here.

Where: Many restaurants still serve red beans and rice as a special on Monday, including the recently renovated St. Charles Tavern (1433 St. Charles Ave.), near the Garden District. This friendly 24-hour diner-like bar offers it with pork chop; we requested andouille sausage. After an evening in the music clubs Uptown, it makes a tasty late-night meal.

When: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. It's on the specials menu for Mondays, but is available all week long.

Order: Red beans and rice ($10.95); any of the all-day breakfasts are quite good, too (be sure to get the creamy grits). Next time, we'll also try the fried boudin balls ($6.95) and spicy chicken-and-andouille hash breakfast ($8.75).

Alternatively: Mandina's (3800 Canal St.) in Mid-City does a popular red beans and rice special on Mondays. In the Quarter, you'll find this dish daily at Creole cafes like Remoulade (309 Bourbon St.) or dive bar Coop's Place (1109 Decatur St.), where you can have it with pork chop, sausage, or Cajun fried chicken (hello, making a good thing better!).

What: This dark, complex Creole soup is made from a thick brown roux and contains, among other things, turtle stock, hard-boiled egg, shredded turtle meat (snapping turtles, which locals will assure you are plentiful and certainly not cute), and sherry, which is often offered to the diner to adjust the taste accordingly. Consistency varies widely--it can be very thick--but it's always rich and robust in flavor.

Where: Commander's Palace (1403 Washington Ave.), in the Garden District, does a killer turtle soup: not too thick or thin, but smooth and vivid, with a floater of sherry provided at the table.

When: Mon-Fri, 11:30am-2pm and 6:30-10pm; Sat jazz brunch, 11:30am-1pm, and dinner, 6:30pm-10pm; Sun jazz brunch, 10:30am-1:30pm, and dinner, 6:30pm-10pm. Sunday brunch is a great time to visit, or, to keep costs (slightly) down, go during weekday lunch (and expect 25-cent martinis).

Order: If you've read, or even skimmed, this whole newsletter, you're well aware of what don't-miss dishes we recommend you follow the turtle soup ($8) with: shrimp and tasso henican, oyster and absinthe dome, bread pudding soufflé, eggs Sardou. 

Alternatively: The turtle soup at Galatoire's (209 Bourbon St.) in the French Quarter is rich and meaty, using three types of turtle meat; other wonderful variations of this classic can be found at K-Paul's (416 Chartres St.), also in the French Quarter; Mid-City joint Mandina's (3800 Canal St.); and Ralph's on the Park (900 City Park Ave.), on the edge of City Park (where, incidentally, they also do a drool-worthy boudin-wrapped Cajun scotch egg).

What: A bright pink, super sweet, fruity cocktail made with rum, lime, and passion-fruit syrup, garnished with cherry and an orange slice, served in an oversize glass shaped like a hurricane lamp--unless, of course, you order it "to go," in which case a plastic cup will be your vessel.

Where: Loud, sprawling, multi-bar Pat O'Brien's (718 St. Peter St.) is the original home of this drink: As the story goes, it was invented by bartenders here in order to dispose of giant surpluses of rum. Try to snag a table in the outdoor patio if it's a breezy night--or at least wander out there to see the famed "flaming fountain."

When: Mon-Thurs, noon-2am; Fri-Sun, 10am-3am

Order: Yes, this bar is one big tourist attraction, and no, this drink does not exist in nature, but it's kind of a must to try at least one Hurricane ($11) here during your lifetime. Finish it, and you'll be drunk.

What: New Orleans has a long tradition of beer brewing (at one time there were some 30 breweries in town) that nearly completely died out, but the craft is making a comeback. So between all the unique cocktails here, don't overlook beers from local breweries: Abita, Heiner Brau, and NOLA Brewing Company (production of Dixie Brewing's beers has been based in Wisconsin since Hurricane Katrina).

Located across Lake Pontchartrain in Covington, Abita, the Southeast's oldest (since 1986) and largest craft brewery, is by far the most prevalent local beer, found in just about any bar or restaurant; the easy-drinking Amber lager is especially common, though we preferred the darker, richer Turbodog (fruit lovers, try the Purple Haze raspberry wheat beer). Keep an eye out for Abita's seasonal harvest beers (like Pecan Harvest and Satsuma Wit), which incorporate Louisiana-grown ingredients. Also in Covington, German-owned Heiner Brau specializes in Bavarian beer styles, like Kölsch, Maerzen, and seasonals including Oktoberfest and Hefe-Weisse. New Orleans-based newcomer NOLA Brewing Company (NOLA = New Orleans lager & ale) has a small but fine selection of malt beers, including the appropriately hoppy Hopitoulas IPA, a nutty Brown Ale, and a French saison-style seasonal called Hurricane Saison.

Where: Abita and Heiner Brau offer regularly scheduled tours, but you'll need a car to reach them. Easier to visit is NOLA Brewing Company (3001 Tchoupitoulas St.), as it's located within city limits, in the Irish Channel neighborhood. Free tours run every Friday at 2pm. As far as bars go, you won't have trouble finding Abita in the city; we enjoyed the frosty Ambers, pictured, at Liuzza's By the Track (1518 N. Lopez St.). The previously mentioned Maple Leaf Bar (504-866-9359; 8316 Oak St.) Uptown has some good local beers, including those by Abita and NOLA Brewing Company. Other great beer bars are d.b.a. (618 Frenchmen St.), located just outside the Quarter in the Marigny neighborhood, and Cooter Brown's Tavern & Oyster Bar (509 S. Carrollton Ave.) Uptown, where you'll find some 400 beer offerings, including locals.

Good to know: New Orleans has two operating brewpubs as well: the somewhat touristy Crescent City Brew House (527 Decatur St.) in the French Quarter, and chain pub Gordon Biersch (200 Poydras St.) in the CBD, near the Harrah's Casino. Not our favorites, but they can be fun if you want to try samplers of house-made brews.

What: This trademark NOLA cocktail combines rye whiskey or bourbon with a bit of simple syrup and local Peychaud's bitters (which gives it its bright-pink hue) in a glass that's been coated with Herbsaint, the local licorice-flavored liqueur (and one-time absinthe substitute). Potent, old-fashioned, classic, and fun to drink, it is usually served straight up with a lemon twist.

Where: There are plenty of classy bars in which to drink a well-crafted Sazerac. We enjoyed one in the new Hermes Bar (725 St. Louis St.) at Antoine's--it seemed fitting to sip a Sazerac in historic French Quarter surrounds.

When: Hermes Bar is open daily, 11am-till. Happy hour is Mon-Sat, 4pm-8pm.

Alternatively: Other great bars for Sazeracs include the swanky new Sazerac Bar (123 Baronne St.) in the renovated Roosevelt Hotel, just outside of the French Quarter; the cool Carousel Bar (214 Royale St.) in the Quarter's Hotel Monteleone, which features an actual, slowly rotating carousel for a bar; and Arnaud's French 75 (813 Bienville St.) cigar bar, also in the French Quarter (P.S. try the namesake cocktail there too).