Prephylloxera Etna Rosso

Tenuta delle Terre Nere  

We discovered Terre Nere at our first stop in Taormina, "Osteria Nero d'Avola".  The restaurant recommended the Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso "Calderara Sottana" 2006 (93 WA), and we were extremely pleased, to say the least (the Osteria is an awesome place to eat as well, an unbelievable value in food and wine).  Over the next few days, a series of coincidences found me being handed a telephone while in my swim suit at "Lido La Pigna" in Mazzaro.  The call was with Marc de Grazia, renowned Italian wine importer and owner of Tenuta delle Terre Nere.  He very generously set us up with a tour and tasting at the winery in Randazzo, a place very familiar to me while stationed in Sicily 15 years ago.  We arrived at the winery after a beautiful drive up Mount Etna. Calogero Statella, wine maker at Terre Nere, hauled us in his 4x4 to some of the most beautiful vineyards I have ever visited.  Impossible to reach by car, the vineyards are perched between 600 and 900 meters on the northern slopes.  The grapes are grown organically, naturally, because the soil is a blend of ash and volcanic sand.  The sulfur from Europe's largest active volcano makes it easy to control pests without chemicals.  The altitude and volcanic characteristics in the soil also render the vines resistant to phylloxera, and some of the oldest vines (140 years) pre-date the phylloxera scourge of the late 19th century.  After touring these most unique vineyards, we went back to the winery to taste through the range of wines.  Each vineyard produces a unique style, and my favorite of the 2009 vintage was the Guardiola (from barrel).  We have tried a number of Etna Rosso wines, and I find those of Tenuta delle Terre Nere to be the finest from the region.  Akin to Burgundy or perhaps nebbiolos from Piemonte, they have a very distinctive, complex, and lingering palate.  This is my style of wine, and I will enjoy visiting to taste again for years to come, as Sicily remains one of my favorite places on Earth.  While not widely recognized, Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio are the varietals that create these haunting wines.  Please let me know if you have questions about the winery, Etna Rosso, or Sicily in general.  I love all three.  

Note: Nathan Woodhouse truly enjoys speaking of Sicily and its wines. If you have any questions regarding Tenuta delle Terre Nere, or Sicily in general, please contact him at nathan@ionia-atlantic.com.     

Retailer Spotlight 

Bottle Cellars
6039 Telegraph Road

Food & Wine Pairing   

Panino al Tacchino 

Don't go boring with Thanksgiving leftovers! Friday morning (or all weekend!) tantalize your taste buds with this simple yet delicious treat. This is a turkey sandwich with a croque monsieur twist, but a little too twisted to take liberties with the name! Plus you can impress your family with the fancy name for turkey sandwich!  For the more elaborate croque monsieur idea, make a quick bechamel sauce with butter, flour and milk and melt the cream cheese and mustard into it. 

Makes 2 sandwiches 

4 slices thick Italian or French white bread 

2 Tbsp unsalted butter, at room temperature 

1 tsp grainy mustard 

2 oz cream cheese, at room temperature

4-6 oz leftover roast turkey, thinly sliced 

2 Tbsp cranberry sauce

Completely cover one side of each slice of bread with a thin layer of butter.  Combine cream cheese and mustard, then spread the mixture on the inside (non-buttered side) of two bread slices. Divide turkey on top of cream cheese.  Spread cranberry sauce on the opposite bread slice (and arugula for a fresh kick, if desired) and compile the sandwiches, pressing lightly.  Heat a cast iron or other heavy skillet over medium high.  Once the pan is hot, place both sandwiches in the pan and gently press with the back of a spatula, or place another heavy pan on top.  Allow the bottom to become golden brown and crunchy, then flip the sandwich to brown the other side.  Remove to a warm plate and serve with a light salad, fruit cup or just a glass of wine! 

For an earlier breakfast style brunch, try pairing this with Vinchio Vaglio Serra "La Passione" White or Pink Moscato.  Closer to lunch and feeling like a more substantial wine?  Try Virna BaRosé or Ferraton Cotes du Rhone Rosé.  Autumn is the perfect time of year to transition from white wine to heavy reds with tasty rosé, these wines are definitely not just for summer! 

¡Buon Appetito!