Cannubi Boschis: 

The Other Producer 

When most wine lovers hear the words 'Cannubi Boschis', they think of Luciano Sandrone's famous Barolo of the same name.  For those of us in the know, we think of Virna di Borgogno, the other Cannubi Boschis producer.  Cannubi Boschis is a particular growing area in Barolo known as the premier and historic location for producing world class Barolo.  Though in the larger area of Cannubi, this is one hill with just two producers.  The soil is a combination of calcareous marl, rich clay and a bit of sand, that provides excellent drainage.  The south/southeast exposure is ideal for the vines, some even say Virna has the best exposure in her vineyard!  We compared the 2006 vintage of these two extraordinary wines recently.  First opened, Sandrone is big, bold and tastes nice but lacks complexity.  It's mostly fruit and vanilla.  Virna starts out tight but straight away indicates it will be a more Old World Barolo.  The color is lighter and the nose already screams Barolo with layers of cedar, tar and cherry.  Given an hour or so in the decanter, Sandrone's tannins come out big time and overpower all else, we decide to put it on hold (as long as we can!). At this point Virna is pulling ahead on the palate.  Though still tight, it has opened and allowed the great characteristics that were on the nose to start to come through on the palate as well.  Hours later and the end of the evening drawing near, we come back to the wines.  They both could have used days to open but unfortunately we wouldn't all be able to get together to re-taste in a day or so.  Virna di Borgogno, though still opening and getting better, was tasting great.  It is what I think of as Barolo; layers upon layers of complexity, crazy smells and tastes coming out of nowhere just when you think you've had it all.  Luciano Sandrone was great wine, and though the leader out of the gate, it never opened into the complexity I was looking for.  It mostly just packed a punch.  That being said, I will buy Luciano Sandrone Cannubi Boschis again and I will let it open over a few days to make sure I get my money's worth at about $175.  In the meantime, with Virna Cannubi Boschis coming in under $60, I think I will enjoy it as many times as I can, which isn't much considering all but the bottles we set aside sold out in one day!  Stay tuned to our newsletter, Facebook and Twitter for the next arrival of this prestigious wine.

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Food & Wine Pairing   

Leak & Tuna Risotto with Poached Egg

Serves 2 as an entrée

3 Tbsp Olive Oil

3 Tbsp Unsalted Butter

3 Garlic Cloves, minced

1 Cup Leaks, white and light green parts finely chopped

1 Cup Arborio Rice

1/2 Cup white wine such as Conti di Colloredo Pinot Grigio

32-48 oz chicken or fish stock

2 farm fresh eggs

6 oz fresh tuna steak

1 tsp lemon juice

1 Tbsp flat leaf Italian parsley, finely chopped

Salt & Pepper to taste

Drizzle the tuna with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Set aside.

In a heavy, deep saute pan melt butter and olive oil over medium heat.  Add the leaks and saute for about five minutes until soft, making sure not to brown.  Add garlic and saute for two minutes, again not browning.  Add the rice and toss to coat in the butter and oil.  Increase the heat to medium high.  Allow the rice to become translucent, stirring occasionally, about four to six minutes.  

Add wine to the pan and simmer over medium high until the liquid is almost completely absorbed.  Add 1/4 cup stock and repeat the absorption process, each time just letting the liquid get down to a 'veil' over the rice.  Continue in this method.  Meanwhile, poach two eggs until the whites are just set and set aside off heat.  Chop the tuna steak and when adding the final stock to the rice, add the tuna as well, allowing it to just warm through.  Sprinkle the pan with lemon juice and parsley, salt liberally and add pepper to taste.  Plate the risotto, make a small well in the center and lay the poached egg on each plate.  The yolk should run over the risotto when broken.

Serve with Virna BaRosé

¡Buon Appetito!