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FORK PLAY: January 3, 2008

 

Birthday Excess. 2008 Predictions. The Sea Urchin Addiction. Sublime Shrimp Salad.

 

Dear Friends and Family,

 

     I don't make New Year's Resolutions, not because I'm perfect, but because I'm so imperfect and I don't need the stress of disappointing myself. But this year, the year of the  pig in our astonishing food world, I 15 east barmade predictions for 2008.  Here are two of my visions:

All smugglers of illegal immigrants will be required to teach at least one word of English for survival: "Enjoy."  Those who arrive legally must learn this at the airport before going through customs.

 

From the thousands of children addicted to the Food Network will emerge a prepubescent prodigy whose cooking skills are so amazing, Jeffrey Chodorow will back junior's restaurant in the space where Wild Salmon failed. There will be no special menus for adults.

For more see BITE

 
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2007 Dishes I Can't Wait to Taste Again

    

     You might also enjoy reading the 2007 dishes I can't wait to 15 east bartaste again, posted this week under Favorites. That's a closeup below of Bun's fabulous sweetbread and beef pho. If you are a regular reader you'll expect to see sea urchin again and again and macaroni-and-cheese
 
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The Birthday Diva

 

     I never let Christmas overshadow my birthday on December 22. I regard it as a totally separate holiday and I sometimes celebrate it for a week with parties, toasts, restaurant splurges and fruitcake for breakfast.  Actually this was the first year I can remember without fruitcake. Fortunately, some fudge came in over the transom so I couldn't feel especially deprived.

 

     Most years my foodie friends indulge me with a pot luck party. The non-cooks bring wine or The Cake and the cooks hit the stove.  This year Chantal offered her exquisite town house and my friend Naomi volunteered to martial the troops to be sure the menu worked.  I said I hoped to see meatloaf or spare ribs, macaroni and cheese, Eddie Schoenfeld's corn pudding and the sky-scraping chocolate cake 15 east barfrom the Strip House.   No point in being shy and being disappointed. Naomi took a stand: She decided to order ribs and brisket from Hill Country Barbeque Market and 86 the meatloaf. 

 

     Would I complain? Of course not. Amazingly, given two kinds of ribs and fatty brisket, Chantal's wickedly lush macaroni (one version had flutters of bacon), Eddie's great pudding, Mitch's savory bacalao and elegant cheese wafers, Vicki's unusual kale salad and my favorite chocolate cake, the dish everyone loved most was Zarela's ensalada de camarón. Shrimp salad, imagine that!  I must say, I had no special expectations for shrimp salad. But I agreed that we needed something to keep non-carnivores from fainting with hunger.  What a triumph.  Zarela came early to cook the shrimp à la minute because her salad could not - must never - be refrigerated. Not often in a lifetime do you get shrimp so perfectly cooked, tangy from lemon and onion, and with a lushness of avocado. You'll find the recipe below along with Mitch's instructions for cheese wafers.

 
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Short Order on the Hot Plate

 
     A few weeks ago I started posting news, tips and gossip in Short Order on Insatiable Critic's home page - revolving tidbits, including bulletins from out-of-town and overseas.  It's a column that can change as new items land on my desktop. I hope you'll help me compete in this modest way with the hundreds of fulltime well-staffed bloggers out there by emailing me news. Scandal is especially appreciated. See news about gladiators girding to kidnap Tavern-on-the-Green's lease. With an essay on Ratatouille, Drat That Rat, I have also begun running short features by other food writers and hope to see more. Johnny Iuzzini is the star of this week's opera gateau.
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Help Wanted

 

       And now for a classified ad:  I am looking for a part-time assistant as well as an intern -- from journalism or the food world -- hopefully both will have website experience. Email resumes please.

 
 

Zarela's Ensalada de Camarón

Shrimp Salad

Makes 4 - 6 servings as first course

6 cups fish stock or water

1 small white onion, unpeeled (use bulb or spring onions or a red onions that is new and shiny)

2 garlic cloves, unpeeled

3 bay leaves

10-12 black peppercorns

1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

1 pound medium shrimp (sold as 16 - 20 count) shelled, deveined and split in half lengthwise

Juice of 1 lime

3 tablespoons olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

1 fresh white bulb onion (see above) or 1 medium-small red onion, sliced into thin half moons

3 jalapeño chiles, seeded if desired (to mitigate the heat -- I don't bother) and finely julienned

1 ripe Mexican-type avocado, finely diced

 Leaves from 10 cilantro sprigs

 

Place the fish stock or water, onion, garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns and 1 teaspoon salt in a medium-sized saucepan or small stockpot.  Bring to a boil over high heat; cook uncovered, for 10 minutes to infuse the flavors.  Add shrimp and cook, uncovered, for seconds or until the shrimp turn pink.  Quickly cool by emptying into a colander set under cold running water.  Drain thoroughly.

In a small bowl, combine the lime juice and olive oil with a generous grinding of black pepper and about 1/2 teaspoon more salt. Place the shrimp in a large bowl with the bulb onion, chiles, avocado, and cilantro.  Pour the lime-juice dressing over the salad ingredients and toss to distribute evenly.  Taste for seasoning and add a little more salt and pepper if desired.  Serve at once.

 
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Mitch's Cheese Wafers

 

1 1/2 cups all purpose flour  (6.75 oz)

1.5 oz. extra sharp cheddar - grated

1.5 oz. parmesan, pecorino, grana, etc. - grated

1/4 tsp. cayenne

1/2 tsp. smoked Pimentón (I use smoked chile powder from La Vera, Spain)

1.5 tsp. kosher salt

8 T. cold butter pieces

2 T water beaten with 1 large egg yolk

1/2 cup finely chopped pecans or walnuts

 Combine dry ingredients in processor - add cheese and butter - pulse till it gets crumbly looking.  Add water/yolk and pulse a few times. Add nuts and pulse a few more times.

Give it a few kneads by hand, then roll into a log the diameter you want your crackers to be. Wrap in plastic, then chill till firm in the refrigerator.

 Cut into 1/4 inch slices, spread out on parchment or a Silpat and bake in a preheated 375F oven till browned - 20 minutes. Don't forget to rotate the pans as the crackers are baking.



Pig and Bun pho Photos by Steven Richter
 
Copyright pending Gael Greene 2008